This is my highly modified Traxxas summit. This is a 110 scale machine, although it is the size of most 18 scale machines that are on the market today. Now, what I mean by modified is you can see here that I've got an old, Kershaw designs, dual motor mount setup here, but it's a t8 brushless motor. It is a 22 50 kV and I run it on 4s lipo with a teak in our x4 electronic speed control in there that's a lot to remember or a lot. You know to even understand what's going on there, but that's generally the powerplant that's running it. Now it's mounted up. This is the pinion of the motor right here: it's a censured motor, so it's very smooth lots of torque in here – and this is the spur gear right here now. I'Ve taken a few of these bolts out already in preparation for the video, because it's quite labor intensive to do what I was doing today, but I still wanted to show you guys in case any of you guys are still out there wanting any help. Now one of the things I wanted to talk about was in my last video, where I was working on my the Grim Reaper, the rat rod. I did not show the sheriff body, although I went out trailing with this body. I said Lee need leading edge. Machining was actually out of business, and that was true for many years until I actually was looking.

You know, because they're getting harder to find differential upgrade gears, and I was surprised to see that on eBay it was actually the one of the only ones. I really could find was leading edge machining. The Traxxas Summit has been out for a very long time and you know I was looking. I when I was out on the trail. What you guys didn't hear was a clicking in my front diff and then somebody else wrote to me and said: listen. My summit actually is a you summit, it's clicking in its front diff. What what could it be – and I thought a good opportunity for me to swap it out for this differential diff cup right here and these hardened gears – these are leading edge machining. I was surprised to see, I guess: they've started back up there in full swing now, and they were the ones that made these axles right here. They'Re all aluminum I'm, not sure if they're still making them, but they maybe need to clean them up a little bit. They'Re a little bit on the dirty side, but not a big deal, they're, mostly clean, and today I thought well I've already done one diff cup in a brand new differential cuz. I thought I've had mine for a very long time. Yes, it looks very greasy and disgusting as it should, as I like to protect my bearings from snow and water and ice or whatever it may go into.

I thought I would do this one, so you guys could at least see it see how that diff cup is installed. People will ask me why didn't I get an aluminum diff, housing altogether and that's a good question, because I didn't yet, and I haven't really found a need for one, even though some people say there's flexes under torque. My original diff are pretty good. I just bought this for pretty cheap from someone partying it out on eBay, so that works. The other thing is, is this: is a leading edge machine, machining part that I've never used? This is the dog that is inside the transmission. Now inside this two stage transmission. There is supposedly this piece right here which I'll show you which this the one that's aluminum will remove this slop there you can hear the gear engage now watch this. You can hear the gear in gear engage. So all this area in here is just neutral zone. So when you go to torque it up, it's really hard on the diffs. So apparently this improved one that they've had for a long time, glad to see that they're back out should take away that slop in there. So I got to take out the transmission I'm going to replace both differentials, but first I'm going to show you how to rebuild this differential with this aluminum diff cup. Okay, now I know a lot of you guys are sensitive towards hurting our seeds.

I want you to know this one's hurting already so here's the symptom that I'm suffering from right. There no makes makes you wince a little bit doesn't it so what's going on is when I'm actually out in the field, and I go to torque down. In my tires, turning or if it's stuck at all, I just get that slip right. So that's, no good when you're in four wheel, drive. Okay, so I've got some thousand hundred thousand diff off to the side here, really thick goopy stuff, because the motor I have on there is very torquey, and I don't have any spiral cut gears for this. In fact, I haven't found any if you guys know of where to get any, please let me know just take out these screws here, there's six of them that actually mount this whole housing together. Four on this side now you got to be careful because the locking mechanism for locking and unlocking in the differential is in here. So when you pull everything apart, you want to make sure to do it slowly, so you can have a good look at it all right like that nice, you can see brand new. What I'm gon na do is I'm actually gon na pop this whole section out. It might be a little intimidating to some, but don't. Let it be. None of these bearings are actually gon na fall off. While this end one has to come off anyway, because what we're doing is we're replacing this plastic piece in here plus we're, also replacing the gears that are on the inside.

So this is a brand new one and be the only reason I have the new one. Is because I've been using my tracks to summit since 2012, so it is, it has been through. A lot of trail runs, and I know that these gears are all worn out anyway. So I'll take off these four screws and then we'll have access to the inside Cup down the outside, though this can slide right off like that. Take that put it off and then the pin, slides off to the side don't want to misplace this little fella. There is and then to work now since I'm, taking this off I'm going to use a set of channel locks to help hold that and play and I'll just use the drill being careful to back out these screws. Even though these are going to be replaced with the leading edge machine, screws comes with four of their own, get those off to the side and don't mix them up perfect, and then I can simply just slide this out of the way gives us. You can see that that's what that's the diff grease that's there that's, why it's so thick and then what I'm gon na do is just push this whole thing right up and out. A lot of people are intimidated by a job like this don't, be if you're confused just do it do what we're doing right now and just you know film yourself or take pictures along the way know these two gears will sit off to the side with that.

Pinion let's get into the leading edge machining bag and then there's the four screws or yeah four screws, a pin, two o rings, and then the hardened gears, which is good now. One thing I'd like to say about this gear right here: is it has a rubber washer on the inside, not a washer, but like a gasket, you want to make sure I found it it's much easier to take the screws and actually watch yourself thread it through, Because if you don't do that trying to line it up afterwards is a huge pain and then that gasket may get ripped or torn so at least this way, you've got control over what those screws are doing and you can kind of keep it in place now. This pin right here is for these two gears that's going to be replacing the pin and the gears that are in here. You know this will freak you out, but I'm, just you, can't see it right now, but I'm just sliding the two apart then I'm. Taking this gear and I'm removing this pin putting the pin straight through the gear goes on then the other gear. Then you got those two outside clamps they're, not clamps, but they're more like seats. They help sit in a channel there. It is beautiful just like that. That'S going to slide into the cup, but first what I have to do is take that opinion I'm, not sure from supposed to actually remove the original one that's on there or just add a second one.

But the reason I say that is because it's a double seating on the inside, you can see it there, so I don't think the two are really gon na hurt because all I'm using is that very thick thick diff grease, and I discovered immediately that I had To remove that blue washer and leave the red oring in there also to make sure to watch the direction that you put this back in, so it seats itself properly. If you don't, this shaft here will actually start to bend at an angle when you start to put the top cap back on so a little bit of that hundred thousand weight, diff fluid in there and then back on. It goes and remember when you're making a differential – and you put all the gears together and you've tightened it all down, look make sure to wipe your hands because it'll be slippery from dead fluid and also make sure that these are tightened in your screws are tightened. In as far as they'll go, you don't want them hanging up anywhere. You don't want to over. Tighten them, though, be careful, and then the next thing you want to do is to make sure that you can turn your differential and it's nice and smooth when you do that, because if you don't test it now it's going to be a huge headache for you Later on, when you discover like I did that I put the differential in the wrong way and it is locked up, so I got to take this one apart.

So lesson learned: okay, then it's just a matter of making sure everything's in place. Everything is well lubricated that goes in right. There, then we build up the whole outside of it. First goes on the giant on the giant. Bearing then the drive pin, then the locking mechanism, because this is what actually locks you can see here – it's a little sprocket that locks into it for locking and unlocking diffs, and once it is nice and snug make sure everything can turn. Of course, I got added resistance in there, but it turns perfectly well so good to install and good to go same with the other one. Now that is switched over to the LEM gears inside the diff cup, okay, so for educational purposes and because it's always excellent to have an other transmission laying around the shop. I did pick up a transmission on ebay. This will make it much easier for me to show you the part that I'm replacing and then I can have this on hand. For later there we go. You got ta, be extra careful when you're taking it apart, there's a lot of gears in there and right here, my friends up top. There is a shifting arm and inside that shifting arm. Tada is the plastic piece now, apparently, switching it out with this aluminum piece. It'S going to make a huge difference, so that should be fairly straightforward. You can see everything on the inside of the transmission is brand new.

I might just swap right over, but I imagine that these gears, since they're plastic they're not going to actually be too bad in my other one. So I may as well just switch out that one piece and keep this as an extra now, let me explain what's going on okay, so this is the shifting arm for the transmission and you can see that's that's a shifting spot right there. So I want to remove this cog, so I'm gon na have to remove all of this tada. This will slide up and out like that. Now the bearing looks pretty good but I'm actually going to use a little rust remover on it and then I'm gon na slide the new one back in place and here's a side by side view of the difference. And if you can see on the inside, the top shape of this is actually the exact shape of the hole that's there. So it takes away that slop shift out and then back in perfect. Now I already replaced that back differential off camera. These are labor intensive jobs, they definitely take a few hours. So if you are changing out your diffs or you are changing out the transmission, you know make sure you have enough time allotted there. We go I'm just going to pull out these front two pins there's. Four pins in total for the bottom arms just like that there we are slide these out of the way.

So the plate goes behind, like that. These are basically pin protectors and here's the king pins right here. These are going to be extra long, so we'll keep them straight, but you got to pull them out the next thing you have to do and thankfully, that this the cantilever is out of the way gon na grab the locking differential housing or the the the horn Let'S get this undone, so it doesn't get broken and I'm just going to note the position of the actual locking mechanism when I pull the horn off so in there it's, basically straight across just removing the arms the assembly, the steering assembly here, this one can leave Just leave loosen off these front cantilever screws. Oh there we go. The diff finally comes out. Take that apart, take this front if out, oh nasty, just caked with tons of mud and muck, but not really surprised like this has been through a beating through the years. Yeah gross just caked I'm glad I got in there to see how it was doing. Well, there we go with all said and done. I have two new differentials with the leading edge machining diff cups in there and the gears. So there is a nice upgrade. I don't have any more clicking going on in my front diff. I don't really have to worry too much more about the power of this oversized motor, even though I know I don't have the spiral gears for the differential, the ring and pinion and not a big deal.

You guys can actually now we'll check out how much slip we have with that new dog in place. Remember we had like six inches back and forth let's here, I'll put it into low gear manually, low gear and then let's move it there's the gear right away and then forward gear right away. So, instead of that six inches now I've got like almost maybe one inch of movement, and that sounds amazing, you're gon na say it sounds too tight medic. It sounds like it's it's like way too tight, but actually the mesh is set so well it's, just the type of gear for a low gear. I'Ll switch it back now to low gear. Oh in neutral position: hey, I love it and then right into gear beautiful guys. There you go. I hope you've dropped a light click down below the video player. I hope this has helped out some people in trying to figure out what they can do to upgrade their Traxxas summit. Guys I want to know, has this summit inspired you ever to get outside and to have fun with RC? Have you seen the grimmer, the grim reaper rat rod, which one do you like: better sheriff rat rod or grim reaper rat rod, guys thanks a lot drop, a like click below we'll, see in the next episode of rcadventures now get outside and have fun with RC. You know I always do and I'm getting a few things I'm.