I designed this drone for indoor freestyle and guys this drone can do any trick. You can name trippy spins mighty flips. It can do it all and im super happy to be bringing this to you guys. So to start, i want to go over to the tools, because this drone is very small, so it uses some unique tools. I have a 1.27 millimeter hex driver, the heads that come with the motors are 1.3, but i found that 1.27, if its a little bit better its a little bit easier for me to get the screws in next up. We have our 1.5 millimeter hex driver. This is for all of the frame hardware, so screwing in your standoffs and all that stuff. Then we have our snips and our tweezers and our soldering iron and thats all youre going to need all right. So everything that youre going to get in your babito build kit is youre going to get four t motor motors. These are 25 000 kv, so they are super high kv to get you that awesome, freestyle juice. We have our flyboo all in one. This is a fc esc, receiver and vtx all in one listing super awesome. It does up to 250 milliwatts, so youll have pretty good video range. Pretty far we have our foxer pico camera. This camera is really awesome for micro drones. We have props and we have our frame kit and then last but not least, we have our bt 2.

0 connector im a really big fan of these connectors because they have a better connection on the contacts, so they just overall perform better than basically any other connector. You can get for kind of drones. Flywhoo actually comes with a pigtail that you can use, but i just found that using this bt, 2.0 connector gives a lot more power for when youre flying these little drones. When youre flying these little drones, you want to get as much power as you can out of them, because its so small and this connector is the perfect for that were going to go ahead and start with our frame kit. Everything that comes in the frame kit is a top plate. Bottom plate, assorted, 3d prints, three m2 15 millimeter standoffs, four m two: ten millimeter screws, eight m25 millimeter screws and eight m2 nylon nuts. So the first thing youre going to want to do is go ahead and grab your babito base plate thats the piece that holds all the motors down and basically has everything on it. So were going to go ahead and start by taking our 10 millimeter screws were going to go ahead and thread it through the the holes for the for the all in one. So we have this hole right here. This hole right here this hole and this hole and go ahead and thread it through right. There were going to grab a m2 nylon nut and were going to thread that on there, its really small and kind of fiddly, but once you get it going its pretty easy, so yeah were going to go ahead and tighten this all the way down.

We want to tighten this as much as we can, so that the screw is not moving around when we uh mount our all in one so thats what you want it to look like when you do the first one were going to go ahead and do this Hole this hole and this hole then well be right back after that, all right. So once youre done with that, it should look like this, so were going to go ahead and grab our flywheel were going to go ahead and open this up and were going to take out the one and in here youll have a packet of some stuff. So youll have that pigtail that i said you dont need, which is this piece. We can just go ahead and flick it away because we dont need it anymore. Were gon na have two antennas were gon na, have our vtx antenna and our receiver antenna? This is the receiver antenna, and this is the vtx antenna make sure you dont get these mixed up, because they are two different ufls and you dont want to accidentally plug it in wrong and break a connector and then youll have another bag with a bunch of Little gummies and some other hardware, the only things were going to need out of this bag are the gummies, so were going to go ahead and open this up. I would recommend keeping some of these hardware, because these little m2 nylon, nuts you can use if, for whatever reason you happen to lose one of them, that comes with a frame kit, but these off to the side.

We do not need these anymore for the all. In one, the side that were going to be having facing up is the usb c side so were going to have it like this were going to go ahead and grab our gummies and youll, see that theres a bottom side thats a little bit thicker than the Top side this is going to go on the bottom of the flight controller. Remember the top side is a side that has a usbc and its actually really easy. With this all in one, you can just pinch the gummy and see theres a little slot right there. Just slide it through that slot and boom its on so were going to go ahead and do that with the rest of the holes. This is what it should look like when youre done. You have all four gummies in there all right, so theres soldering to do on the bottom side of this board, so were going to temporarily install it upside down on the screws just so that its easier to work with when were soldering, because, if were just having It free floating, it might be a little bit clumsy so just having it locked on here is kind of nice. We dont have to put any screws on top of it. Just have it just kind of sit on there like like that and itll make it easier to work with. So, if youre, using the built in fr sky receiver, youre only gon na have to wire three pads, your camera, your five volt and your ground.

But if you are using an external receiver, you will also have to do that, while youre out here for today were just going to be using the built in airflow sky receiver, because i think its sufficient for what im doing mostly with these little drones, which is Just flying around my house, but if you want to install any other receiver, you can do that all right, so the pads were going to be soldering to on the bottom of this are the cam 5v and ground um. It looks like it already started, soldering it because, like i did start soldering it with a too big of a tip, but weve got a smaller tip now so use the smallest tip you can, because this is going to be easier to solder. All these pads with were going to go ahead and start off with our camera pad. Okay, so tinning the pad is basically preparing the pad for when we actually apply the wire to it. So tinting were just going to go ahead and put the soldering iron on the pad and apply a little bit of solder. There we go there, we go all right, so now were going to go ahead and grab our camera and the wire that comes with it is a bit long and actually has a connector on it. So were going to go ahead and cut the connector off to find the right length of the wire that we need to cut.

It were going to go ahead and flip our all in one uh back upright, so basically go ahead and take this off and youll see that theres a little arrow on the bottom of the aio. That basically shows which way is forward. Put this like this. Now its facing forward, and basically the usbc, is in the back and were going to go ahead and pop it on the frame like this to know the front and back of the frame. The front side of the frame is the side that has two holes and the bottom, and the back is the side that has one hole before we go ahead and measure out. The wire were gon na go ahead and twist up our camera wire. This just keeps everything nice and neat for when we are soldering it at the end, the fpv camera is going to be go is going to go ahead and sit up front right here and the pads that we started on the underside are on this side of The flight controller left of the usbc so were going to go ahead and just kind of length it out to how we where we need it to be. I want to leave some slack because at the end were going to be running it away from the motor wires, because when we run it close to the motor wires, we got some video noise. So to do that were going to leave ourselves a little bit of slack kind of like that.

Let me go ahead and cut it like here snip. So now that we have the length of the camera wire cut, we can go ahead and flip our flight controller. Temporarily upside down, so we can solder it on. What were going to do right now is were going to go ahead and strip the wire so that we expose the actual the wire part of it. So we can go ahead and tin. These were turning. The wires is similar to the pad, where basically were preparing it, so we can start it onto the pad so to strip the wires. I just use wire cutters and i just dont press down. I dont snip all the way just to kind of halfway. Then i go ahead and pull. It should look like that so to tin. The wire were going to do. The similar thing where were going to have our soldering iron were going to apply it to the wire and were just going to add solder and youll, see its nice and shiny and thats. How you know its tinned were gon na go ahead and do that to the rest of the wires there we go. So all these wires are tinned when we stripped our wire. We did it a little bit too long, thats, okay, because we can always shorten it down a little bit. The reason were gon na go ahead and shorten it down is because on the pad, the pad is so small that if we have our this much exposed wire, itll overlap and possibly short something so im just going to snip it a little bit off.

So it looks something like that so were going to go ahead and start by soldering, the camera 5 volt and ground. So we wan na have our wire facing the direction of the arrow. So basically, the camera were gon na start our facing towards the arrow, because thats, how we lengthened our wire in the beginning and also just adds for a cleaner, build all right so to solder, the wire to the pad were basically gon na, go ahead and sit. The exposed wire on top of the pad and press down with our soldering iron, you want to see a little shiny ball like that and thats how you know that its a good connection, so the three colored wires, are yellow red and black and the yellow one Is camera red is five volt and black is ground all right, so now were going to take our flight controller were gon na go ahead and flip it back upright and were gon na go ahead and grab our bt 2.0 connector thats. This pigtail right here were going to solder it to our battery positive and our battery negative. Those two pads are right here. This one is labeled vcc thats, our positive, and this pad right below it. That is negative. Pinning the vcc pad is very difficult because theres a lot of parts around it and you want to make sure not to touch those parts with the starting iron, so youre going to make sure you dont cut this wire at all, because this is actually like.

The perfect length for the batteries that we use and you can see they already come pre tinned, but were going to go ahead and re tin these these wires. Just because the solder that comes stock from the factory, i think its unleaded solder and that doesnt mix well with the leaded solder that we have here all right so were gon na go ahead and tin. This pad, by applying solder to the tip, applying the tip to the to the wire adding some more solder, do the same for the other wire there. We go and were going to go ahead and take this 3d printed piece. This piece actually is going to hold our vtx antenna, our receiver antenna and our pigtail, and its going to face on the drone like that and were going to go ahead and grab. One of our standoffs were just sliding the standoff through right now, because its a lot easier to do it now than its going to be later, im going to go ahead and push that through if youre weak like me, you can use a table and push it Down there like that, so were gon na go ahead and wire. Our bt 2.0 connector wires through this before we solder them to the pads, because if you do it after you wont be able to fit it through the hole. So so this pad is vcc. This pad is ground and on our wires uh, the blue wire is our positive, aka vcc and the white wire is our negative, so were going to want to wire it up so that it sits like this, so were going to go ahead and wire it through Our 3d print, like that with the blue wire facing up and the hole youre going to use, is the square one right there.

So now that we have it threaded through, i like to solder my ground first, just because if i started my positive first itll, the ground will kind of get in the way place the wire facing up on the pad and just hold the soldering tip on the Side of it, one nice shiny ball like that and then for the vcc. There we go so now we have our pigtail wired up im, going to go ahead and take our antennas. We have a receiver antenna and our vtx antenna and were going to go ahead and do is youll see the little arrow on the bottom side of the flight controller were going to go ahead and connect these up now. So the left side of the arrow is going to be for our receiver antenna its actually really kind of annoying to plug it in plop it on there – and i kind of like to use my fingernail to push it down. All right so were going to go ahead and plug our vtx antenna on the other connector for the nice pop nice im gon na go ahead and face these away so basically going towards the back go ahead and slide the 3d print on the pigtail a little Bit more forward and this big hole right here. This is where the vtx antenna is going to slide through just like that and our receiver antenna. I kind of like to coil it up once so.

The length is a little bit shorter, im gon na go ahead and slide it through that little the little hole right there on the other side of the vtx right below the pigtail a little bit there. We go got it once we got. It were going to pull it dont, pull it too hard because you dont want to like accidentally rip the antenna, but basically get it to once. The black part is through there and just like that. Well leave that. So we have a little package of electronics, camera and antennas, so were going to go ahead and take our base plate. Make sure we twist up this camera wire good. What we do now is plop down the ao onto the screws just like that, and so as for the camera wire, this cameras just going to be floating around right now, but we want to make sure we push it under the all in one just right. There cool all right so after we plop down our all in one, were going to go ahead and actually lock it down with our m2 nylon. Nut so were just were going to go ahead and screw the m2 nut on, and i i know it seems like theres, not enough room, but if you want just push down the flight controller and have it so that this the screw, the end of the screw Is flush with the top of the nylon nut were gon na go ahead and do that to the rest of the three right here right here and right here, all right and now that we have our all in one locked down onto the base plate.

Now we can go ahead and take one of our five millimeter m2 screws. Take our 1.5 hex driver and screw in the back stand off thats holding all the stuff, so its kind of already in its place and go ahead and screw that in right there, like that cool. So we have this nice little little package in the back, and i designed it this way, holding the vtx and 10 in the rx antenna really close to the back stand off, because this is super durable. I have not broken either antenna and since its such a small frame, it doesnt really matter about rf its just kind of all there. So this is a really good option for mounting the antennas, so now were going to go ahead and grab the other two 15 millimeter standoffs were going to go ahead and grab our camera mount, which is this guy right here and were going to go ahead and Thread the camera mount onto the standoffs boom so now to mount the camera. What were going to go ahead and do is going to take off the little black lens cover that comes with it. Put that aside, and so the top of the camera. As you can see on the back theres three wires that come out the back when the wires are on the top left corner thats, how you know its facing up im gon na go ahead and put it in the 3d print to know which way is up And down of the 3d print, when you have the angle of the 3d print going up, thats the side thats going to be facing out of the out of the quad.

So its going to go like that im going to go ahead and push this in all the way nice, and so once we have it like that, we can go ahead and screw these two standoffs in and boom. So now we have these two theres, your fpv camera thats, how its going to hold, as you can see, remember we have it tucked in under the flight controller, so we reduce any noise in the video and what noise in the video would come up, as is Like maybe some black lines in the video, so now, what were going to do is were going to go ahead and tin. All of the motor pads, the motor pads, are the uh 12 pads right here, one two, three, four: five: six, seven, eight nine ten, eleven twelve so were gon na go ahead and tin. All these pads remember like earlier place the soldering tip down on the pad and apply solder. Let it sit boom boom boom perfect, so were gon na go ahead and do that for these other motor pads, all right so im just gon na plug it in make sure i didnt mess anything up im, not using a smoke stopper. You should really use a smoke stopper but ill know. If i did it wrong. Smoke comes out of it. So here we go kaboom yay we got lights yeah. I guess just really make sure that you dont do the positive and negative the battery the wrong way, because that is just the easiest way for anyone to mess up this whole build.

So now we can go ahead and grab our motors. We have the t motor 0, 802, 25 000 kv motors on this, build theyre super light and theyre super speedy were going to want to make sure we keep the screws that come with it because were actually going to use those to mount it onto the frame. Were going to go ahead and grab our 1.27 millimeter driver once again, you can use this size or a 1.3 for these screws and grab our screws and thread it on here and in your assortment of 3d prints. Youll see you have some little skids and we are going to use these to mount the motors as a little spacer, as you can see, theres one side of the skid. That is flat and one side that has a couple little divots. The parts with the divots are going to go on the bottom and the screw head is going to go through there like that, so were going to go ahead and thread all of the screws into all of the little 3d printed skids. So there are three screws per skid, because the motors have three motor hole mounting, so i just want a little bit of a thread going up out to the top. I dont want to screw it in all the way um. This will just make our life easier. Later, when we have to actually mount the motor onto it really impressed how they can make such small things all right, so youll see theres three screw holes to the motors and the arm and three screw holes and three screws that are in the little 3d skid Im gon na go ahead and plop it in there and it kind of just press fit like that.

Im gon na screw so that one of the threads starts popping through im gon na keep that there im gon na grab my motor im gon na go ahead and screw a motor on once you get. Two in three should be easy. I screwed it on loosely, but now what were gon na do is were gon na go ahead and screw it just until the bottom of the screw right. There is flush with the top of the motor base, were gon na go ahead and do that. For the rest of the motors thats, what it should look like when youre done see that you have a bunch of connectors here and while it would be so much easier just to simply plug it into the board. I am very against using plugs for motors on these drones because it just soldering just has a much better connection and actually provides more performance. Like i said earlier, i really designed this drone to be maximum performance, indoor freestyle so thats. What im doing, even though its a little bit harder to build it, the payout is so much more worth it. So the reason thats direct soldering it provides a lot more performance is because theres more contact on the metal, so it can pull more amps and basically spin the motor faster, its the same reason that were using a bt 2.0 connector instead of the ph 2.0 connector. That came with the goku just having better contact on metal to metal just lets you pull more amps and get the full potential of this little quad.

So to solder up these motors, i just like to pull it taut, take my driver and push down so that it makes kind of, like a 90 degree angle, a right angle and were going to go ahead and snip it so that its the perfect length snip. So im going to go ahead and cut all the wires to length. Now i did one of them, but i cut one of them too short its, not too short to where i cant solder it, but i like to have a little bit of slack to be a little bit more careful this time. Im going to you want to kind of cut it parallel to the edge of the board, so that you know youre cutting all of them at equal length. So youll see how my wire cutters right now are parallel to the edge of this board. So now we can go ahead and strip and tin these wires its same process that we did with the camera wires, so were gon na go ahead and expose some of the wire halfway cutting down pull pulling on it and youll see how we have exposed wire. Now and to tin, it hold the soldering iron on it and add solder just like that. So im gon na go ahead and do that to all of the motor wires now all right. So we have all of our motor wires, stripped and tinned and what were gon na go ahead and do now is solder them straight up to each motor wire.

Basically, what i mean is were not going to cross over any wires. So the far right is going to go to the far right pad middle, the middle and left to left. In this case, it happens to be yellow on the left, black in the middle and red on the right and thats going to be like that. For all of the motor wires – and the reason i have it wired straight up is because it just looks a lot cleaner and were going to change the direction of the motors in bl heli afterwards anyways. So all right, so we got all of our motor wires powder. This is what it should look like. Looks pretty good im super happy with this build if youre building this at home therell be a dump in the description below with the betaflight dump for 428, make sure you dont update the firmware if youre using fr sky spi receiver, i have a really good tune For it on 428, so just go ahead and dump that exact dump into there. So before you put the top plate on youre going to make sure you want to go ahead and put a dump on there use the micro usb then, after that you can put the top plate on. I designed this drone to have the micro usb inside of the the whole drone, mostly because its more durable for it. If we had it basically anywhere else coming out, the bottom wed have to move the flight controller up higher, which would make the frame bigger its just a lot of work.

This was just the best solution for having it be the most durable and most compact frame that i could before we put our top lid on, we got to put our battery mount on it. That is this little blue piece so were going to take our top plate and youll see. There are two screws in this in the middle of it right here and right here: im going to go ahead and thread, one of our five millimeter m2 screws through it im going to take our our battery mount im gon na screw that on like this, you Might have to put a little bit of force into it. I made it a little bit smaller than the actual screw size so that it stays in there really well, once you have it on there perfect and then well also put the other one on thats, our top plate, its a pretty hot top plate, and if we Turn it over. You see. It looks like this, where we have the two screws screwed in were gon na, go ahead and plop our top plate down its just gon na sit nicely like that were gon na take the rest of our m25 millimeter screws. Im gon na go ahead and screw it in personally, i like to start with the front right because i like to do the back screw last. It just makes everything a little bit easier, get the front left on and finally, the back screw on.

You can go ahead and tighten all of them down now, so tight and tight theres. Our drone were going to go ahead and grab our hq props. These are the 35 millimeter by three props im, actually really in love with these props, because they are really high. Pitched so they provide a lot of power and make it super easy for pulling on the dives power loops, trippy spins, mighty flips, whatever youre doing indoors so on this quad ifly props out rotation, so basically props out is if this is the front of the drone. Youre going to have the front two spin outwards like this, and the back two spin outwards of the center, if that makes sense so ill, just show you how i put them on were gon na. Take our prop see its spinning this way, and you can tell that its spinning this way, because the leading edge of the prop is uh facing that way. So have that down put this one on kaboom, just making sure im pushing the props all the way down. If you cant push them down all the way, thats, okay, the the props just press fit on theyre, basically just friction fit on there, which screw on props, are really annoying. So im happy that its just you know, friction fit all right. Guys. Im super happy with this build. It looks awesome so cute like it just fits in the palm of my hand. Thank you guys so much for watching this build video.

Remember there will be a dump that i have for 428 betta flight in the description below. So if you want to pick up a build kit yourself, you can get that at rotorite.com. So if you want this drone, you can either buy the diy kit, which is basically all the parts we just had and you can follow along this build video to build it or they have a built in tune which is basically this final product. You just get it out of the box and immediately start indoor shredding, making your house into an ultimate freestyle place guys. Thank you so much for watching this video. If you guys, like this video, make sure you hit the thumbs up button its right down there, that really helps us out a lot right next to theres a little subscribe button. You should press that subscribe button.