Two sixes: what is s you might ask specifically they're talking about how many cells in series there are in that battery. Every cell of a lithium battery is essentially a four volt battery, so as you combine them together and you wire them in series, you're gon na multiply that four times. However many s so a 4s battery it's four times four it's, essentially a 16 volt battery. If you move up to success you're at six times, four it's, a 24 volt battery, why would you change the voltage of the battery that you're gon na use on your drone there's, a few different reasons you may want to do that for the set of square Using what you're getting out of that is more power. I think the standard kV motor when I got into it was 2300 kV. Essentially what that means is for every volt that you feed into that motor it's gon na spend 2300 rpm. So if you're on 3s, you got 12 times 2300, you bump it up to 4s, now you're 16 times 2300, so you're just gon na spin the blade a lot faster and get more power and more control out of it, but there's a limit to how much More extra power you can get by simply spinning the prop faster at some point, the prop just isn't going to be able to take it or the motors gon na get too hot it's, not gon na be able to produce that power.

Well, that leads into the other reason why you may want to keep raising the voltage. In my opinion, the reason why you're hearing a lot more about 6s now is because it's not just to get that extreme power it's actually to get more efficiency, because if you raise your voltage on your battery, but you lower the kv on your motors, you can Come back around to that same amount of power, you would have on 4s and 2400 kV motors, but now, since you're doing it with voltage, instead of amperage in theory should be more efficient, meaning you're gon na get longer flight times. Another reason why a lot of people like to run success is because, since you have such an overhead and voltage compared to a 4s battery, when you get down to the end of your flight, you can expect that the power is still gon na, be more consistent Because you still have a lot of voltage to work with okay, so you made up your mind you're on for us now, you're gon na go to success. The first thing you want to take a look at is any of the electronic in your drone that are going to be pulling power directly from that battery. They need to be rated for success if they're, only rated to go up to for us and you plug a success in you're risking it now. The next thing to decide is: are you moving to success to get some ridiculously fast rig, or are you doing it to get more flight time? If you want to just go really fast and as long as the components can handle it, then you can just slap the success on there maybe take an easy test flight, but if you're looking for more efficiency and longer flight time, you're gon na want to pick Some motors that are a lower kV, since I know this is a transition that a lot of people are kind of hesitant to do and myself included well.

We'Ve done is put together a bundle with four 6s blaster motors and three 6s tattoo batteries. So you can find that bundle down in the description in this video, so I'm, actually gon na be making the switch on one of my quads, because the dirty little secret is, I don't, think I've ever actually flown success. I'Ve had the same issue that a lot of people have. I already have batteries I already have motors, since we have a lot of customers that we've built drones for I'm gon na give you some tips on how to get those motors D, soldered and solder, backup and swapped out. Okay, we're gon na switch out these 26 50 kV motors for these 1800 kV blasters, so it's going to give us the right range that we're looking for for success. First, up is I'm going to take these props off. I like to get a grip around the prop and then grab the motor to where the prop cannot turn in my hand, when you're switching out your motors, if you have individually SCS or you know an ESC on each arm, it's going to be pretty easy because All your soldering work is gon na be done out on the arm. If you have a four in one ESC, it might be a little trickier because you're gon na have to get into that ESC. So it's going to be a little bit of taking your top plate off depending on your setup and how tight it is in there.

You may need to pull the the flight controller out of the way for me. Luckily, I have these quad wire LEDs installed. So if you're wondering what's, a quad wire led it's kind of like an extension in between the wire, so now, instead of going into the ESC to decide right, I can just do that right here and it's also an LED it's, actually using the power being drawn From the motor the higher rpm, the motors are spinning the bride' your LEDs, get. If you were going to add quad wires on to your setup, you can leave the existing wire. You have coming off your motor and just cut it. So leave the part that's soldered under the ESC, cut it and then remove the motor and then what you would do is take those wires and solder it on to the one end of the quad. While your LED and then your motor is going to get soldered down to the other, the direction is usually going to be set in the ESC. So you probably will be okay but it's. Something to know that once you get this done, set it up into beta flight and check your motor direction to make sure nothing has changed on you. Since I have a good quality, custer solder and a good hot iron it's going to be super easy. You make sure that the tip of this iron is always nice and clean and shiny you're, going to take a small amount of this solder, and this is what you call tinning your tip just get a little bit out of there having that little bit of solder.

It'S actually going to help the heat from the iron to the wire. Once you touch it on there, it should only take a second to liquefy and that's. How easy it is to desolder a motor, so I'm gon na go ahead and desolder the rest of these pull these off and then I'll jump back in with you when we go to put the new ones up: Music busting out these new success, blasters we're gon Na be switching this bill to here for my setup, I already have all the right length of screws that I'm going to use and I'm because I'm using these quad skids, which I would highly recommend they add a little thickness, and this is a five millimeter thick Arm so I don't think these are gon na come with the lengths of screws I need. So all I need out of here is just the motor save those screws for a rainy day. Protip kids don't, throw your hardware away. You never know when you'll need that screw in order to keep it a little more tidy while I'm doing this I'm just gon na preach rim. This down a little bit leaving more than I know, I need enough of brand new blaster motors installed. Now we just got ta solder and back up the way we're gon na solder them back up is very similar to the way that we took them off. We'Re just gon na apply heat and solder.

The only difference is, we need to tend these wires. So any two things that you're going to solder together, you don't just hold them together and then add solder, you tin or add solder to each part now you're done with this, and you can just hold them together and heat it up. The solder from each half are gon na melt and then become one so first up I'm gon na do my final trim of these wires line them up to where they're gon na go leave a little bit of slack I'd cut that guy about that long. Just a little bit past where it needs to go. Why are your trim? Next thing I got to do is strip the wires. You can usually just pinch it with your thumbnail and pull on it that's. One way to do it, you can also do it with these. It takes a little more dexterity because if you squeeze a little too hard, you're gon na cut through the whole thing, but this is the way I like to do it do that without cutting through the wire. You can also use a tool. That'S specifically meant for stripping wires, usually as I'm building quads I'm, using these a lot to trim the wire, so I just learned to use the same tool to also strip the coating off. Try to be careful not to expose too much. You only need a you know above the same length of what the pad is next thing I got to do is tin all these wires.

To get that prepped, I want to make sure the wires haven't gotten too frayed out. So what you can do is just kind of give it a slight little twist and also to make them a little easier to get to. I usually like to kind of pull them up. Alright, now we're onto tinning hold the iron on one side of the wire and hold the solder on the other side. That'S gon na make sure that the wire is actually hot enough to melt the solder. I already have solder on the pads and I'm gon na solder two, but I can see it's gotten a little messy, so I'm gon na clean it up a little bit and maybe add a little more where it's needed. You want to be careful not to use too much, because if you use a ton of solder, what can happen is the two points will bridge together because you've got so much that as it heats up it just flows into one big blob. If you can tell from looking that's that's about the right amount, so it's not the best tool for holding your wires because you might cut through it but it's. What I got ideally you'd want some tweezers for this that's it for a solder joint. It really does it shouldn't take much to me Music. We got a motor soldered, really didn't. Take that long, don't be too intimidated by soldering it's, really not too hard, but at the same time, if you bought a drone from us and you're, just don't want to get into all the soldering.

Absolutely you can mail it back to us. Well, we'll handle it for you all right. I got those motors swapped out. I got me some 6s batteries now. The last thing to talk about is to make sure I can actually charge them. Not only need to make sure that your charger is going to handle up to success, but also your parallel boards or cables that you have four parallel charging make sure those are able to go up to 6s as well. I personally use the little spider cables that don't have a circuit board. So in my case I need a whole different, valence cable to charge 6s batteries. If you're using the barbell parallel board its separate by 4s and 6s, you got a whole different board for that. So just make sure you have the gear you need to get your batteries charged. One other note about charging 6s batteries. Is you need to understand that you have sort of an inefficiency going on to charge them now? So if your power supply is pushing out 12 volts you're, now using 12 volts to charge 24 volts it's, not the end of the world, you can definitely do that. You just I'm, just warning you. It might take a little bit longer draw a little more power to actually get a 6s battery charge. We got the motor swapped out, we got the batteries, the batteries are charged. One thing left to do: we're gon na get out and fly in the blue corner.

We'Ve got our four cell set up. This is gon na. Have your 4s blasters for us battery red corner we've got our red 6s blasters and our success battery. I think I'll start out with flying the 4s quad first it's gon na be my first time flying success, I've not flown 6s, yet pretty good power. There do some speed passes Music. She cooks, pretty good Music that's two minutes during that flight. 14. 7 because I'll be honest, I kind of abused my batteries. I take them down a little too far, just because for me personally, I'll just buy more batteries and abuse them and just have that little bit extra fun. But I would recommend, if you want your batteries to last a long time you want to land at about 3.7 3.8 volts per cell. So if I take the 14 point 7 I landed at and divide it by 4. I took it down to three point: six. Seven it's still in the safe zone. So while I have the calculator out I'm gon na do the math for the six cell battery because I'm used to four cell 22.2. So once I see you around 22 that's, when I'm gon na land, the six cell battery and I'm expecting a little bit of extra time out of it. I got two minutes out of that. I'Ll try to do a similar flight and we'll see. If I get more time so far, definitely from the tone of it, it sounds like I'm hitting a higher rpm and more power, Music, Music and it's almost exactly the same I'm at 22, volts now of 2 minutes and 4 seconds, little anecdotal, not the most scientific It'S got more power same flight time.

Few factors could play into that. This is a brand new battery could be. I was on the throttle more of that time than the last time still kind of safe to say I didn't get dramatically more flight time out of the 6s battery. If both of these quads were making the exact same amount of power, this one would fly longer due to efficiency, but right now it makes more power and flies the same. I'Ll try another flight and I'll go for maxing out my flight time. Take it real, easy and see what how long can I stretch each out Music, I'm gon na call. It here isn't that a pretty consistent, 14 4 minutes and 13 seconds we're at 5 minutes 40 seconds, and I I just got below 22 volts at 21. Eight – and I just went one lap too far, because now my battery's totally dead. It says 17, 15. 1600. You just killed it way too much yeah shoot. We got distracted but it's crazy, because that last little bit sunk a lot like out. I was hanging in 218 for a while and one more lap, and it just I hit that point. Where is immediately draining down that battery is dead 10 volts, not it's like going down, but I was able to get like seven minutes out of that. Instead of for just really the entire experiment and that battery the point is very clear – is definitely a lot longer on that it's, the first flight ever on it first flight ever so there is that there is an element of breaking your batteries in maxing out the Amount of flight time you can get on your batteries, not something you should do on the first flight of the battery.

I have one more 6s battery so on this flight I'm gon na try to redo the Freestyle portion, but try not to do what I did to the other battery, so I'm gon na shoot for 22 volts on this one. I don't remember where the first Music Applause Music this time. I did much better on time because Ahmet he almost four minutes. I almost isolated number one thing: I'll say biggest thing: that's gon na affect your flight time way more than your setup or 6s 4s, which motors, which props is how you fly the quad, because I didn't take it down that much more. But I know I was being a little easier on the throttle on that flight than my first freestyle flight. That was almost four minutes. I was like three minutes 45 seconds, so we're, not the lab people. We it were the fun we have fun. I think what's more important is just the experience like. So what do you what's your total and yet, if I had to pick one of these quads to take home I'm taking the 6s quad, are you able to switch probably not right now I would. I would keep that quad on 6s overtime. I'Ll buy a couple more packs for that it does seem like, especially in my situation, everybody's gon na be different. I can I can get stuff out a discount. I work at the store, so it's, not gon na kill me to buy 10 success batteries, but if someone has been saving up their money and they just got their stat stock of batteries – that you know cost him a lot of money, they might not want to Turn around and just give those away or not use them and then replace them all with even more expensive 6s batteries.

So what if someone's starting out if you're starting out, I kind of think 6s is way to go. Really, I guess there's not that many other negatives really it's, just the price of the batteries, the big used to be components, couldn't handle it yeah, but we're getting more and more components like more and more entry level. Components are now advertised yes successful and I trust it. We are using higher end components. That being said, this 6s quad is on the hobby wing stack that's done really well in success. I hate to admit it too. I guess I'm not really seeing a reason not to do 6s. You know my imaginary friend here was getting into quads of, like you should probably go for that one. That one seems to be a little better Laughter, gon na be sticking with for us. For that. I don't know: okay, now explain yourself: why would you want to stick with for us it's, just like my stuff is up for us it's. Just this. What it well let's say: I'll it hold on let's. Have some transparency out here drew has a motor with his name on it, and so do I that also kind of plays into it too, when it's like committed to something you put your name on yeah, my name was something that's like are neither one of us Gon na use our own product because we're switching, maybe we need to make success versions of our motors.

I mean I'd fly the van over motor well here's. Why I'm not anxious to switch there's? Nothing in my flying that I feel my equipment is holding me back. Do I sometimes wish I could fly for 30 seconds more or a whole minute, more yeah, but it doesn't like gnaw at my flight experience, either way whether you go for us or success it's not night or day too fast, it's, not gon na make it we're Pros over here as little cons over here, it's, not that big a deal, but I know a lot of people are really more concerned like what should and they you know they want to know more people getting into. I think a lot of people getting an F TV right now and their thing, where should I start and bottom line either way you started – is not the wrong way. Yeah it's not a wrong way. I guess I wouldn't say that I don't feel like I'm stuck on saying you. You should start on for us if you're curious about starting your fpv journey on success, it's knock yourself out, go for it! Why not seeing how much more of a time you got when you were especially yeah, cuz that's right because that's, how a most beginner is gon na fly just kind of cruise around number rippin full throttle all the time and you're getting more time to practice that That'S, a big thing. Definitely, if there's anything we missed, and you still have more questions – feel free comments below what setup do you fly? Are you a 4s holdout? Are you already a pioneer of success enjoyed this video make sure to hit the like button to? Let us know and hit the subscribe button, so you can keep up with all our drone adventures.