PROJECT “OVERKILL” 2020 – HOW to MAKE a DUAL SHOCK MOUNT for ANY TRAIL TRUCK (PT8) | RC ADVENTURES
One tenth scale Trail truck that I'm building for the 2020 rudeboys RC TTC, which is a tough truck competition. Now a purpose based rig, a lot of people have asked me. When will I put the decals on the the body here itself and I would say that that would be a finishing touch, but when we last left off, I had just installed the reefs RC servo winch, and I mounted it up. Thank you to the folks that gave me this for this suggestion to take a slightly larger drill bit and drill out that hole so it's, not as sharp on the cable and you'll see that I actually chose that you're a drill bit that fits that caller perfectly. I actually used a collar and grub screw to answer another viewers question on how I attached that hook. So there is that also my friends let's see here. Everyone was giving me a good warning and thank you for that about against using a grinding wheel for aluminum, and they all thought when I said I had ground off that much of the reefs are seamount, but actually I had used a hacksaw cut off a good Portion of it and then just used a small amount of grinding to just kind of smooth everything out before I mounted it inside this GCM frame. Now, if you're just catching up with us, this is part eight of this extensive build that I undertook several weeks ago here on YouTube and there is a lot to look at, and this is a tribute to the original project overkill the GMC topkick I built about Twelve years ago, well, not 12 years ago, eight years ago, pardon me – and so here we are with a whole revamped version.
A lot of people ask me, am i doing Dooley's on this and no a lot of GMC topkick actually came with just four wheels. I did do the upgrade to portal axles, of course, and I could put Dooley's on here at any point in time – it's just for the original build that I want for the tough truck competition, which is what I'm focused on right now, although it's in July, and It is March right now this is really what I'm looking at. But what – and why are we here today well being project overkill, and the original overkill was all about the technology I had at the time – and you know the the type of overkill truck that I wanted to build, which was gon na have two batteries and it Was gon na have two motors and to Tran, like it had a single transmission, but it was mounted up onto one spur gear, those both of those motors. It was a great series and I had a lot of fun with that truck and one of the things that I thought that was always going to be amazing, of course – and I mentioned it in the very first or second, video was the suspension. Now, in the original project overkill, the suspension was quite different. If we look over here in my parts bin here, you can see I'm a little discombobulated here's, the old MSR 10 shocks from inta G that I used to run on project overkill for anybody.
That remembers, if you remember the original project overkill, please make a comment right now, letting me know that you've seen it cuz. I want to know how many people have seen the original, and so I thought with those monster shocks. Well now, we've got these des desert. Lizard shocks that I brought in from Yao racing and you'll also remember. If you've been following along with the build that I said, I wanted to do the dual shock setup, and this is why I bought these specific hangers for a different vehicle altogether, because it's got multiple mounting areas. Well, let's see let's, take this tire off and show you what's behind. Here is the Vanquish licensed curt, like currie licensed f9 portal axles and you'll, see that there really is only one area to hook up a link. Now I remember saying that there was two areas on the back. Of course not. This is where the lower suspension link goes and what I meant was. I wanted to hook up duals here, but I had to figure out a way to do that, and so I figured to myself what I could do is actually remove this rod from the rod end where it screws into the eyelet, and then I would have a Eyelet, that was just open like this one, for example right still screwed into one spot. But if I made a top plate that was flat and went across the top right here that had one screw in the middle that I could screw down into this eyelet.
And then screw this rod end into a plate and this rod and on this side into a plate for the second shock in one plate with three holes. I will have done it. Yes, it is amazing. My friends, I am always a student, never a master that's for sure. I had no idea that you couldn't grind aluminum on a grinding wheel like the way I have it. In fact, it could be incredibly dangerous and cause the wheel to explode. So thank you. I always do read the comments. You'Ll notice that my five mill piece of steel is totally square and what I'm gon na do is draw a few lines here about a half an inch in depth or in width and then, of course, basically straight across, because what I'm gon na need to do Is make four little mounting brackets and I'll? Show you what I mean not bad I'm gon na be cutting on the inside now. What I want to do is take my two two shocks. I want to make sure to take the eyelet off of one and then taking the eyelet off the second one, and what I want to do is line these up on the steel, and I could make a mark on the steel itself. But I also before I make a mark down here at the end of the rod, and here I also want to make sure that the top of the shocks are going to line up on the mount itself.
Let me show you what I mean let's get into the mount, and so how close here, let me refocus how close can that be like right there? I want to make sure that they all all line up, because once it's in the steel it's not going to be moving around a whole bunch I'm going to want to make sure I've got a nice straight line for where I'm going to be drilling. So, basically, straight across, I can still see the bottom of the dots, no problem and I'm gon na make the outside punch first there's one and then the inside or the other outside. Now, between these two, I want to measure to know where that center point is gon na be okay. They didn't turn out the way I liked so instead come on focus I'm gon na. Do these three, because I like these a lot better fire up the drill press here, but I want to make sure everything is lined up with the laser Music Music facemask and I protection required our ceasefire alrighty folks, if you've never seen one of these, this might Be new to you, obviously so I'll explain what you're looking at this is a tap and die set. Basically, what it is for is making threads for screws or making the screws themselves like if you had a piece of rod, end and you needed to make a screw and that the screw was like a half inch.
You would use one of these and turn it down that rod to make the actual screw well, if you actually want to make a female part like something that you put threads into, for example, what we're doing with the piece of steel, the m3 0.5 you'll, see That this is a tap no it's a tapered tap and I'm gon na show you how to use this. This is the tool that comes with it. You'Ll see that it's kind of a vice and it vices in the middle. This goes in the middle it's kind of like a square or, if you turn it on its side, a Diamondhead, and it kind of just goes in like that. What we're going to be doing is putting thread into that piece of steel, so I can take the rod end of the shock and actually thread it right through this piece of steel, which will help add to the strength of project overkill. 2020. Okay, here you are super close to the piece of steel. In fact, you're in a vise right now check this out. You want to make sure to have this piece of steel as flat as possible. I can see it's even a little bit here. I'M. Probably gon na make an adjustment right now, because you want this to be a super level if you're putting threads into something that isn't perfectly level. Well then, you're gon na get a angled thread which is no good to anybody, because then all of your screws are going to go in on a bad angle.
So here it is tight into the vise, and what I want to do is take that tapered edge. You could use some oil here but I'm going through such a small area. It really doesn't matter, and I want to put it just like that and we'll we'll zoom back. So you can kind of see what's going on here now. I'M gon na add some downward pressure and I want to make sure to remain as straight as possible. So I'm, just gon na kind of feel my way down there and, as I turn it, what it's doing is actually cutting thread and I'm not pushing too hard and there I can feel the threat has been made, and that is how you can do that. So now any M 3.5 screw is going to fit into here. So what I want to do is do all three holes. Just gon na draw a few straight lines here, so I know exactly where I'm cutting because I'm going to be using a cutting wheel. Next, to cut this out so I'm, using a dremel rotary tool with a cutting disc I'm, just gon na score the outside, so that I know where I'm going there. It is I'll let that cool off for a moment. So now I'm left with this small rectangle with three threaded holes. What I'm going to do is I'm going to grind the edges just so that they're not sharp at all and kind of round out the corners just so it's more appealing, Music.
Okay, so then I'm left with this little piece, now: I'm, no master craftsman craftsman, I can't even say the word there there. It is, though this is something simple I'm going to make four of these now. Technically, if I did this right, this M three point: five mil should thread into this hole with no problem, and indeed it does tada. That is how you do that, my friends now is it going to fit one of the shock, shafts that's, a good idea. Let'S check that out here's the threaded end and excelente, so I'll remove the shock from the tower, and so what I'm thinking about is the suspension? Setup. I'M. Sure everybody right now is thinking. Dual shocks is going to be way too stiff for a trail truck because all of the conventional methods that we've seen so far have made it. That way – and I would agree with you that was a challenge I was worried about as well, but I was thinking to myself, which I often do itself the suspension itself. I would want to have the sprung shock towards the center of the machine, while the unsprung shock, which would be basically in droop only with oil in it, which means one will have a spring which has a nice bounce back and one would not. It would just have oil in there and it would have no spring one with no spring on the outside would be ideal, because then the one that was sprung could basically take the whole suspension and the way it's set up on the actual perch itself is spreading.
The weight, so I want to show you what I mean, but only after we get this set up so now that I have this off. What I want to do is go ahead and remove the eyelet or the rod end itself from the end. This is the shock I just got out of the box, so nothing has changed and what I'm going to do is just open it up. There'S no oil in it from the factory I'm, just gon na go ahead and remove that spring right there and place a small amount of oil in this chamber just to act as a lubricant. Then I'm gon na place this back, and this one is basically going to be not a fake shock, it's, adding strength to your whole axle. If you're gon na take a tumble down the axle or dump to tumble down the axle tumble down the hill, then you know you're gon na be worried about braking when your eyelets off now this is going to give you double that strength perfect. So it just collapses, it moves freely and, of course, right at the end. It has that small internal spring, which will help it come back, but basically that's how it's going to sit. So this is going to get screwed directly into the plate that if I get too small nylon nuts on the bottom there, because then I could have simply have just drilled a hole through and then done the nut.
But I think this is actually gon na. Add more strength to it overall, all right so lift the frame up out of the way get that screw into place, so we can hold it in there and then the sprung one towards the center. So, after all, is said and done, I find that having one that is sprung and just down a little bit from the one that is unsprung seems to be the most beneficial way to do it and look in the background guys you can see. I already have the other side done and I've left that steel piece unpainted. Why would I have gone unpainted well, it's, going to naturally rust and I think, for all the scale trail freaks that are out there. They love the scale detail. So why not have an actual bit of rusty truck on there right it's, not gon na hurt anything where it's at here. It is on the front same kind of idea. The springs are on the inside, but I also did do the outside now that's. Just for my own preference, because I am running a three cell – five thousand milliamp hard case – pretty heavy lipo battery plus, I also have got my winter servo back here. I don't want this to be a Wimpy loose front end. I did explain in the last video how I like my suspension, I like having Flex in the front, and you can see that there is quite a bit of suspension flex in the front, but also when I'm going over a hole.
I don't want my front end to fall into the hole and cause my whole truck to roll into that hole. I like to be able to drive on one side and float my front over the over that gap now, but look in the back completely different here. It is on the staggered suspension and look at this because I'm, going basically only sprung with one of the light springs in the back. All of those shocks are working a lot of you guys who thought this was going to like, but no no, no! No! This is project overkill. 2020. My friends, I knew that I want to make sure to have a supremely tough truck to be able to go out to the competition this year. I hope you've enjoyed the project so far, it's been an absolute blast to build with you guys on YouTube, and hopefully you guys already smashed the like button because that's what it's all about you know on YouTube. That helps maybe even a comment to what you think about project overkill 2020 and until next time for a new modification. We will see you in the next artsy adventure now get outside and have fun with RC or, if you're like me, stay inside and build yourself.