We are watching the video series of project overkill 2020 and now, although some of you will be completely enraged that I moved on without you, I got on a tangent last night because I needed to work. Some things out about this frame and chassis and axles, and all that and I actually started assembling the truck off camera now don't be discouraged if you're just tuning. In now, I actually did assemble the frame rails with the shock, hangers and shocks in a previous video. As well as these f9 Vanquish Currie portal axles, these were built in the last video as well. So all I did off. Camera was really just attach them together, put the links together and you guys are getting to have a topside view of what project overkill looks like right now now, for those that are just tuning in this is a GCM c max aluminum ladder frame chassis. This is 19 point, 7 inches long believe that is crazy, a as well as a 13.8 wheelbase on here, so it's a little bit of a longer vehicle. I love the fact that when I was going through my parts drawer, I actually found the old plate for the original project overkill for the hitch right here. So I thought incorporating this onto the build, was actually a no brainer for sure and you'll notice that there is no motor plate in the middle, and so instead of boring you with the things that we've already done like in previous builds.
I thought why is not just jump forward. We now have a roller in place right. I got all the geometry and things correct on the truck itself. Everything'S looking fantastic you're gon na look like it has no suspension right now. You know why, because there's literally no weight up here, there's there's, no reason for it to be pushed down very light springs in there, no oil. Yet I did put on the the axle mounted servo hanger for the Vanquish portal. There it's not a big deal. It'S. All it was was a bracket that kind of fits around and one thing I'd like to say about the vanquish products really like the tolerances that they have in their machining that's, absolutely fantastic, really no slop and that and then that's something that as an RC or With a trail truck, I love a good, solid truck, especially when I'm putting in max power here check out this servo. This is a three brothers Racing servo sent to me by Corey shoutout to you, brother, in Ohio and also Tom Asher. That runs the three brothers RC in a while check out this servo. They sent this to me to put into something worthwhile. They said, and so I've been saving it for hundred and 50 ounces. Look at this, the specs on the back at four cell. You get four hundred and fifty ounces of torque 337 on three cell lipo. I love this. It actually connects directly into your battery through a jst plug as well as running into the the receiver for the signal now the reason I'm.
Even bringing this up awesome servo by the way, guys I'm gon na use this one. Thank you for sending it out. 80 Maloprodaja, on that, where I paid much more for mice a box, but look at this look at this is a whole. Servo container can fit right underneath this look at how much clearance I have there in the middle. Let me compress the shocks all the way down, and that is basically the servo case itself. So we all know what a standard servo case looks like well. Some of us do so that's quite a bit of clearance, especially underneath everyone's, like look at the huge pumpkin housing on the on the differential. It really isn't that large it may have looked bigger on camera than it truly is so much innuendo. So here we go. These are a couple of the frame rails that come with the starter kit for the c max rails from GCM. I also added in a bar in the middle just to give it a little bit more rigidity and I did have to play around with the geometry of the truck on those links a little bit but nice and solid everything's, looking great how the heck am. I gon na hook up the motor and transmission now, if you guys checked out the previous videos in this series, you'll know that I'm using a super shaft II transmission. This thing is a bulletproof. Almost they say, it's a lifetime warranty on it, except for the front output drive.
Everything else is good to go. I'Ve got a great mesh between the the pinion everyone's, like your brass pinions gon na be too soft, but I've had lots of luck with these pinions. I don't have any issue at all. I did swap it out, as I've mentioned in a previous video for a 3300 kV, brushless and you'll see with no motor plate and an old axial transmission housing, older style scx10. How am I going to get it in there? Pa, one of the secrets is, is that I want to have my drive shafts as low as possible. Right I want to. I want to make sure everything's in there nice, so what I'm gon na do is actually fabricate a very small L bracket and I'm going to link it right up to the side where it comes straight up here. Let me see here this metal right here. It'S gon na come straight up and then bend at a super sharp angle to come down into almost like a pie shape and then once I attach it to the frame I'm gon na have the drive, shafts, nice and low like that, which will go out to My slightly raised pinion shaft – I like them that way just so, I can almost get them as straight as possible. You'Ll notice that I don't have any clocked steering issues. Everything is good to go on that side. So really all I have to do is drill some holes into this after I cut this and make it into an L bracket and we should be able to mount up the engine.
A lot of you will be concerned thinking that the build is almost over, but that is far from the truth, actually being a tough truck competition build for me, this is actually going to be constantly evolving and, like I said, with no weight up top other than The battery and the motor that I'm going to put in there you know this is gon na – have to have a little bit more weight. I love light trucks because they're able, with a lot of power, hop and bounce over things instead of sitting and digging a hole, but at the same time it is nice to have some weight when you're pulling things like a weight, sled or things like a tug O'War right, you want to have some good weight so in a tough truck competition normally and a lot of people don't know this. You cannot change your tires. The entire time you're there your truck basically has to, as is for all of the events so like obstacle course tug of war. You know it's slight pull mud bog. All that stuff has to be done with one single truck unless you break apart. If you break apart, you can replace it with a similar or lesser part. You'Ll also notice for the Keener's that I did change out. The tires on here this is these are voodoo. Tires got these from one of my buddies on a bouncer that I traded for. These are actually gon na fit my build much better.
Even though they're 1.9 s they've got a very aggressive tire on there, and I kinda like the rims, and the secret truth is. Is that? Because vanquish is proprietary and I only had a few vanquish rims around that would fit these fit the bill for me. So there's that that's just a convenient coincidence. U redu, I'll actually cut a flat part first, instead of using the rounded part that way, I can start flush and give it a good clean, Bend. Music are see, sparks Applause, Applause and then introduced version 2, because I had an alignment issue. So not everything goes right. The first time that's for sure, but you can see I cut a new piece – just got to run the file through the center of that hole, they're not a big deal and then what I've done in case you're still not kind of following along is look at The bottom of this tada, so what I'm going to do is I'm going to squeeze it there. You guys can't see, but it lines up with the holes and then I'm going to cinch it all down, but only after I bend it right about here, and so this will go into the frame so right along the straight line: Applause, Applause, beautiful and so there It is mounted and slightly bent I'm gon na need to bend it some more, but I just wanted to show how strong and sturdy that was just to make sure I got it all lined up screw on either side finishing tightening the screws and the transmission and Motor are now mounted beautiful now for the ESC, mounting I'm just gon na use some gorilla double sided tape.
I find this stuff works to be the best and I've got a nice little cross platform right behind there to stick it on the bottom of the ESC. I'Ll just use one piece like that make sure it adheres nicely to a clean surface there. We go wrap this around and up to the platform that's where that can stay and that wires, you know basically are nice and tidy out of the way. All right, zatim, we can have a look exactly at how the transmission and motor turned out not too bad it's gon na look exceptionally high to you guys, that's totally exactly right, but it's, not too bad. zapravo, I've got this 5000 milliamp battery that I'll be running up front, a 3s, which adds quite a bit of more weight to it, but you'll notice. Even with that, it doesn't really give me a lot of droop. You know why cuz it's all the way as low as it's going to go right now. It actually lifts that much so there's, quite a bit of movement in that suspension already, and I could probably put a little bit of firmer spring in there. But it'll really start to work well when I put the oil in and build the shock properly, but next what I want to do, because I have extra long drive shafts that have to go in here. So I want to see if the super shaft D Drive shafts are actually going to fit, and here they are still packaged up and waiting to be built, but these are actually monsters.
I want to make sure I don't get these out of phase here so I'm gon na be very careful, but to show you exactly how long these drive shafts can be. Look at that. So I hope, with the extensions on the end, that we're gon na have the right length. We'Re gon na, have to see, though it'll be a close, a close match all right, so these drive shafts are super simple. To do and put together, I should say you can see here that they do come with MIP blue thread gel and grease they're, both blue, so it's a little bit of a prank on you just be careful. You don't, znaš, use threadlock where you're supposed to be using grease and vice versa. You'Ll notice that we've got the top end of the drive shaft the pivoting point in there that holds the pin and the pin itself. Now these little pins actually have an indentation on them, that's, where the grub screw or the set screw is going to go against. So what I'm going to want to do is there is a small grub screw I'm going to kind of preload that on my driver off camera there making sure to use the thread gel a little will go a long way and I'm just going to start threading. It into the end that actually goes through the head and then, if you keep everything aligned, you'll notice on this side, that there is a hole well that's where the drive pins going to go.
So you want to make sure to line up all or both of those holes all three pieces and then put that flat spot where that grub screws gon na go just like that, bend it out of the way tighten up the set screw against that drive, pin And you have yourself a drive shaft, you just got to repeat it. On the other side, I have done both the drive, shafts and they're ready to be installed. Let'S see here, please fit please fit please fit, please fit that one would go there. This one's, a bit of a stretch, got a hole through the output drive right come on. Da, okay come on now last one fit, but will this one? This will be the true test, Oh easily, da, I'm! So glad I got that extended output drive right. Tamo. Remember that's why I have that extension on the back was to help me with the back drive shaft, to make sure I could make the longer wheelbase, u redu, so off camera I've, basically gone and opened up every shock and added just a slight amount of oil as Well, as the super soft springs that are in there to to now lower the height of it, now that the drive shafts are in, I want to make sure that it will sit as low as possible to have those drive shafts, as straight as possible. I'Ll tell you what look at this. It articulates perfectly I'm loving what I'm seeing here weight distribution wise! You can see it's a little bit heavier in the front that's, why I kind of want to add that little bit of a medium weight spring in there? Oh yeah that whole drive line is now set up and ready to go.
So this is an exciting time for me, I'm definitely excited, but let's let's have a look underneath right because I know a lot of people are gon na talk to me about this. No matter what, in the comments section, because it doesn't make sense, look how skinny this truck is. U redu, a lot of you might not have even noticed, but some of you Keener's will have already commented about me, attaching my my top suspension links to the actual frame of the truck. That is how you do it normally you'd be looking at attaching it on a transmission mounting plate here's the original scx10 mounting plate. Look at the size difference you're, looking at it head on there look at how much of a gap there is, so everything is quite condensed. Hence why I built that motor and transmission mount right. So this is a huge overlay of space. So now you can kind of understand, with the lack of weight in there I'm gon na want to add the weight, make sure that my shocks have a lot of room to move, but I don't want an overly high vehicle and that's. The bonus about having overkill is that overkill will look like a very tall vehicle once the body mounts on there, but it's. Zapravo, all air up here, there's not really kind of be anything up top. So it's gon na have lots of power as long as I'm able to get my Rock sliders built and add weight down below.
I think it's going to be an absolutely fantastic platform for a tough truck for the tough truck competition that's. The whole purpose of why I'm building this and sinking so much into it, because I want to make sure that point to point that my whole drive line is as rock solid as it can be, especially if I'm doing mud and pulls, and all that and the Competition isn't even until the end of July, so I got tons of time to work on this really dial it in the way I want, and I think we should power it up at least once guys thanks a lot for joining me today in the epic RC Adventures build series the return of project overkill. Hopefully you have left a comment. Possibly you have smash the like button because you totally approve of this project and we will see you in the next episode of rcadventures now get outside my friends and have fun with RC or, if you're like me, stay inside and build one bye for now, Glazba.