, So I tried to find one that was different and thats. The Anycubic Photon M3 series., The Anycubic machines. All use a custom ecosystem: this is the mid size. M3 Plus theyve also got the base M3, which uses a 4K masking LCD. This M3 Plus uses a 6K one and the M3 Max uses a 7K screen.. The two larger machines, the Plus and the Max, also come with the more interesting features of the series, and that is network connectivity to their Anycubic cloud. It even has a little camera built in and they both have a resin, auto filling module that keeps the resin vat topped up during larger prints. And whats. Actually, a really cool addition is the textured PEI release film that promises an easier release of each layer, but I found it also leaves a very satisfying texture on your parts.. Also, this M3 Plus is supposed to be insanely fast, being able to print 100 mm tall in just one hour. Thats. The sales pitch Anycubic gives so lets. Take a look at how well all of this actually works in practice. Right after a message from todays sponsor Polycam Polycam is a 3D scanning app for iOS Android and the web. Photo mode only needs the camera on your phone or photos from a DSLR or a Drone on the web to capture models of any scale.. If your camera can focus on it, you can scan it. Scan your lawnmower, scan your church scan your electronics projects, scan yourself, scan your girlfriend or scan a pile of rocks if youre into that.

. It even works. Surprisingly, well on notoriously hard to scan objects like cars., Minus glossy black surfaces of course. And on iOS devices that have a lidar scanner. Polycam can use that and give you near instant scans of larger objects too. You can use the scans, of course, to 3D print them directly, but theyre also super useful as reference for modeling up new designs.. You can save out your scans in a whole host of formats for importing them into anything from Blender to Fusion360 or directly as a simple stl for your slicer.. If you want to use the models for 3D VFX work, Polycam can also generate ambient occlusion normal and roughness maps. In addition to the 8K textures. Polycam is super easy to use, but if you cant even be bothered to scan your own stuff, theyve got a scan. Sharing social network built in where you can explore the scans other folks have uploaded and share your own scans with the world.. Having a 3D scanner in your pocket is really useful and if you think so, too, give Polycam a try at the link in the description. Below. Lets start out with the disclaimer. This machine was provided free of charge by Anycubic. I do not need to send it back. There were no strings attached as to what or how I should cover the machine and no money changed hands.. Also, there are some other reviews out there on this printer that ignore some rather striking shortcomings in the name of oh, this was pre release.

. I dont really like giving a free pass for that and now that the Anycubic M3 series is released and has been shipping for a while those excuses, kinda, stop being valid.. So, first and foremost, youd expect a resin printer to produce high detail, crisp parts and the M3 Plus does that. The 6K screen at a build area of roughly 20 x, 12 x 24.5cm makes for a pixel size of just 34um, which is well on the finer Side of what MSLA printers typically give you., But, as you can see, theres a bit of an issue with mine as right as I started printing parts for this review. Somehow I guess the print ended up poking a hole through the FEP film flooded, the screen with resin and it baked a proper layer of crud onto it.. That is unfortunate, especially because during the unboxing livestream I wasnt able to get the included screen protector on without bubbles or trapped dust. So this screen, unfortunately, is ruined., But, like I said you can expect a resin printer to print. Well, it does that and its literally everything else, but the prints themselves that differentiate the machines so thats the interesting bits and thats what were going to focus this review on.. One of the cool features is the vat auto filling function of the M3 Plus and Max.. This actually works way different than what I expected.. I thought it was going to be a dog bowl, filler kinda deal where you pop in the resin bottle upside down, but its actually wayyyy more complicated than that.

. The core piece is this: air pump that lives inside the printer. It hooks up to a special resin bottle cap that has these long aluminum studs attached on the inside and two hoses and cables attached on the outside.. So what happens is that the air pump actually pressurizes the entire resin bottle and then because one of the aluminum studs is actually a hollow tube. The resin gets forced out through that bore through the black silicone hose and into the printer where it gets squirted into the resin vat., The other rod in the bottle. I guess, forms a plate capacitor with the tube and that would change capacitance as the bottle empties. So that would allow the printer to monitor the resin level inside the bottle without any moving parts. In the printers vat theres. These two prongs that dip down towards the resin as you slide in the vat and those sense, the resin fill level in there.. Yes, this is a rather complex system and I have no idea how well its still going to work a couple months in, but I guess worst case you replace the silicone tubes and youre up and running again.. This actually does a great job at keeping the vat full. All the time., Too full. Like above the max fill line., Which is fine for printing, but as soon as you try to swap resins and have to empty out the vat youre in trouble.. The vat has a spout, but that thing is the worst mimic Ive ever seen.

Its an absolute trap.. So I guess youd need to use a turkey baster to drain off the majority of the resin first or plan for a resin swap a couple prints ahead. Turn off the auto refill and then run down the resin level on purpose.. You cant adjust the resin fill level by bending down the sensor fingers because that will actually prevent you from getting the vat in and out. But you know you actually dont even really need the autofill system on a printer, this size., If you fill up the vat all the way that still is enough for any typical print, even when it uses up the maximum build volume.. This probably holds liter of resin. With the autofill system. You can only use 1l size, resin bottles and only the ones that have this exact height and cap thread., For example, Siraya Tech bottles use a larger thread, so youd have to transfer those into an Anycubic bottle to use with the autofill system.. Then also the tubing gets in the way of the lid sensor all the time. So, overall, the autofill system just ends up being an annoyance more than it helps.. On the other side of the Z axis column, youll surely have noticed the camera module thats mounted there.. This is part of the Anycubic Cloud, and the cloud service, in its most basic form, is actually kinda useful when it works.. There are four pieces to the cloud printing service: The printer itself, your slicer, which is Anycubics Photon Workshop, then the Android or iOS app, and the cloud.

anycubic.com website, which is completely dysfunctional, its linked from Photon Workshop, but its only generating internal server errors. Once you click past the expired certificate, warnings. So really youre forced to use the app, because you need that to create a user account and link your printer.. All you need to do to claim a machine is to enter the CN number from the printer. No confirmation on the machine or anything and you can remote, monitor the printers status and start prints straight from the slicer or from the app. Once youve printed a part. The file for that stays saved locally on the printer. So you can start printing it again without needing the app but for new prints. You either start them immediately from the slicer or upload the print file to the cloud, and then you have to pull out the app and start them from there.. The printer itself, doesnt know anything about files stored in the cloud.. This is all still super unfinished. If you couldnt tell already. Privacy policy Eh, we dont need that. And the process of entering the CN number to claim a printer, not only straight up didnt work until the very latest firmware update, which you have to do manually through a USB drive, but its obviously A huge security risk., Like I said, theres no confirmation whatsoever on the printer itself when someone is trying to claim it, which gives basically full control over the machine and once somebody else has registered it.

There is no way for you to kick them out or even reclaim it for yourself.. Also, my M3 Plus isnt, detecting the camera, and I dont know if thats a bug with mine, specifically or just not supported in firmware yet. Theres, still a whole lot of work to be done. For this to be good, like I said its certainly usable right now, but its not what Id consider ready to ship and to put out into the world as a headlining feature of a new machine. And buying stuff now and betting on it to get improved in The future thats a risky game to play. I mean it, wouldnt be the first time for a cloud service to be announced and hyped up and then just be left to wither and eventually break.. Another feature that Anycubic are promoting left right and center is how fast the M3 Plus is supposed to be. Theyre, claiming 100 mm of print height per hour, which is insane thats twice the speed of the already crazy, fast SL1S.. The problem is well, it doesnt do that. Sure it has a layer, exposure time of 1.5s thats totally doable and is in fact the default in Photon Workshop, but the peel cycle, the printer does and any SLA printer does takes way longer than that and is usually The determining factor for how fast a resin printer produces parts these days. Anycubic, give you exactly one slicing profile for the M3 Plus at 50um layer height, but it only does 20mm of build height per hour, which is, as you probably figured out, a factor of 5 Off from their claim.

, So to get to that 100 mm per hour, I guess youd need to do 250 or 300um layers, which is way coarser than a filament printer will do and also hand optimize the peel cycle and then its also, probably only going to work For a select few models that dont make use of too much of the build area at once., So throwing a claim like that out there and then leaving it to the customer to figure out how to achieve it. That is at least disingenuous. Speaking of Photon Workshop Anycubics slicer for their resin printers. Well, its basically Chitubox., It doesnt, say Chitubox anywhere, but it sure looks and feels a lot like Chitubox., Which is fine that works. It does everything you need it to, but its pretty slow to use, especially on more complex models. Ive, heard that its supposed to be fork of an earlier version of Chitubox, which does sound pretty plausible to me. Its also pretty plausible that you should subscribe. But hey Im, not the boss of you., The M3 Plus, and especially the M3 Max, are what Id consider large for a resin printer., And it turns out that large resin printers come with their own set of challenges like the rather spacious resin vat being hard to Handle because it sloshes around a lot, but another challenge is that your parts typically are rather big. Yeah, who would have thought Anycubic do make a matching Wash Cure station and that actually works really well.

. The washing action is really good and they give you plenty of extra room in the tank so that, when you actually dunk in a large print, it doesnt spill over.. Of course, I wish it had a drying feature that it could run before it starts curing parts like the CW 1 does, but if you just give parts a minute to evaporate off your solvent, naturally it also totally works.. It washes really thoroughly and it cures pretty fast. So its great to see theyve solved that but something they didnt solve is being able to actually remove parts from the build plate and keeping them in one piece.. The M3 series uses a laser etched aluminum plate and parts. Stick to that really well. In fact too well and the hollowed out Mandalorian print with the base that is only filled with support material, got completely obliterated from me trying to remove it.. There is a solutions for that and its flex beds, which honestly, I think, are kind of a must have with these larger printers. Unless youre, just printing small stuff anyway. But in that case, why are you getting a large printer in the first place, The overall vibe that Im getting from the Anycubic M3 Plus? Is that its trying to solve problems that dont really matter or does so while creating even more hassle in the process and instead ignores the things that would really make for a better printing experience., Underneath all that theyve hidden, a decent, resin printer Anycubic sure know how To make those, but that by itself is nothing special anymore.

These days. – And that brings me to the shoutout to my patrons and YouTube member, whose support makes it possible for me to produce independent critical reviews like this one and with that, hopefully encourage manufacturers to actually make better products. Everybody wins. If you want to support the channel, you can do so through YouTube, memberships or Patreon. Thank you to everyone who already does and if you dont know, I also do regular exclusive QA hangouts for supporters., But even the small things really help the channel like sharing this video, leaving it a like a getting subscribed to the channel.. Thank you all for watching.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGieUODhuvc