The first thing you want to do when youre doing a build is make sure you have all the components ready to go so, for this build were going to be using the open, racer pro frame – and i have this printed in pct pe, which is a nylon Blend very tough – and here is the frame itself, with the stack screws ready for mounting im going to be using the heads up 533 motors thats right. This is going to be a freedom spec build then im going to be using the reaper mini 20 by 20. Electronic speed controller, the fox air mini v2 722 flight controller im going to be using the predator v5 nano camera by fox here and then im going to be using this immersion, rc hybrid duo board. This is the video transmitter and the receiver all in one. So its going to be a very quick and easy build. The next thing youre going to want to do is what i call the layout. This is kind of like step 0, so youre going to want to actually lay everything out the way that it would on the stack to make sure you actually have enough space and size in here before you start soldering things so im going to put some standoffs Below now before, you can actually do that layout. You need to apply your gummies to each component if theyre not already pre gummied, so you just take the little gummy like that and stick it in here.

This one actually goes in pretty easily, but if you have to use a screwdriver to get it to go all the way in you can just do it kind of like that. Just be careful not to actually pierce the gummy itself. So now weve applied gummies to all three of these and for my layout, what i actually did was. I applied a little nut to the bottom. To get this a little bit distance away from the carbon in metal, so im first going to go ahead and place. The esc on here put it all the way down and youre going to want to inspect and make sure you have enough clearance if theres anything metal or a part of the frame below youre going to want to go ahead and apply a little bit of pressure. And compress that gummy to make sure theres no way in a crash youre going to make contact with that screw. If its very now, i have at least two and a half mils clearance here, if it was less clearance, id actually put a little bit of electrical tape over that, but this should be fine. Next, we have our flight controller im going to go ahead and orient it with the harness connector to the front, which is how its actually going to sit uh make sure we have enough clearance there next were going to take our combo, ghost hybrid duo were going To lay this also with the connector to the front and put it right there now the ghost has a flat side on the bottom, so you can actually lay this very, very close kind of laying on the harness right there.

Now you want to make sure theres clearance for this usb and so, whatever kind of layout youre doing you want to make sure you have clearance, no metal touching metal, so this usb is very, very close to this board. So what were going to do is check to see if theres any metal connections on there. There are a few pads right there. So i just covered this with a little super 33 electrical tape, just in case its ever compressed, and it does make it a connection. It wont actually pass any power or anything to that usb port. Now this looks good. The other thing i want to check is that i have enough screw on the top to be able to attach my nuts and seal the stack. Then youre going to want to take your top plate, or, in my case the pod and just do a quick test. Fit to make sure that everything is going to be clear, so im going to push this on and now were going to take a look. And yes, i have plenty of clearance in the front and the back. So this should all work now. Actually, when i screw this on, this is going to sit about two and a half millimeters lower, but i can see i have that amount of clearance so im good to go and start wiring everything up now. The first thing that were actually going to solder up is going to be the electronic speed controller and the motors so were going to remove the flight controller, vtx and receiver, and the first thing were going to do is tin up all these wires.

Now, im going to be using kesters, 6337 rosin core solder ill, have a link for this and below. If youre having bad soldering, you may have cheap solder. Now this costs 18 or 20 dollars for this roll it lasts a long time. It may seem a little bit expensive, but its totally worth it, because this actually melts well a lot of times its, not your soldering skills that are terrible its your solder. The other thing im going to use is this caster flux, pen, pins. You can use flux in a jar, but im just going to use a little bit of this thats going to make the solder flow a little bit better. Im going to put my temperature up to about 420 degrees now look at the order. I do it. This is not 100 necessary, but you dont want to apply too much heat to one section of the board at once. So first im going to do one of these power pads, so i kind of let it start heating up a little bit and i just feed solder in there until i have a nice ball now, instead of going straight over here, im actually going to go up Into this corner, so i can let that cool before i go to the next pad now see im making these nice round balls. You just apply a little bit of heat to the pad, then feed the solder in there and then just pull it both of those away.

You want to have enough solder enough of a nice ball to be able to easily solder your rest. If youre too stingy with the solder, if you dont, put enough its going to make the rest of your job a little bit more difficult, so do that next thing you can do is take all your motors kind of measure them to length. Uh get the ends! Stripped and then youre going to want to tend each motor wire, so ive actually already done this to these, but ill. Just show you one more time, just put a little bit of solder on the tip thats whats, going to allow that to join a little nicer and were also going to go ahead and do our power leads and our capacitor now for power leads. This is a little bit more wire than im going to need so im going to really kind of want it to be kind of like this right there. Now some people use wire strippers, but you got two built in wire strippers right here. You just kind of grab it now as im stripping these the red one looks good, but the black one is too long now, heres a rule of thumb. Your wire that you have should be about the same length as the pad. You can see how this is longer than the pad. You dont want that because then youre going to have bare wire in the middle here so lets trim this now.

Weve tend our esc and our motor pads and our motor wires themselves, but were also going to want to do the same thing and be very generous with the solder for these power leads. These are going to be the thickest wires and we want the best joint possible right here, its going to get that soldering iron, nice and hot then were going to just really let it soak in the other thing. Thats important to do is to clean your soldering iron tip every once in a while. If you have one of those little metal, shaving things that clean it or a little sponge like this, make sure you got a little bit of wetness in there and just clean it. Every so often im going to do the farthest one first, which is going to be negative im going to zip, tie it to this right, rear arm im going to just kind of lay it on top and im going to start heating that, until it kind of Falls a little bit, you want it to fall into that lower blob of solder and just become one big ball of solder. Im going to check it, you can see, it could be a little bit lower, so were going to apply a little bit more heat till we get it lower im going to do the other side. First dont forget, as you go, to keep applying some of this flux thats going to help the solder melt faster.

You dont want to stay on a pad too long if you start soldering and have an issue where its not melting, the right way just back off. Let it cool a few seconds and try it again. All right that looks good, so im gon na zip tie it right there. Its gon na face like that and ill be ready to plug it. In next thing, im going to do is screw on the motors and were going to solder those up next now before you actually solder it on youre going to want to apply some tape to get these motor wires in place. You can use this tessa. This is actually automotive electrical harness tape, its sort of a claw tape, very nice – or you can use this 3m super 33 premium electrical tape. This wont get hot or sticky either. One of these is good for this. All you do is kind of pull the wire straight. Put your tape on there sort of work it towards the center right there and then get yourself. A nice clean, wrap, thatll hold it in place, and it just looks nice and clean. Make sure that the wires are nice and taut you dont want them loose right there, so were gon na do the same thing to all four of these. Now before i start soldering, the motors im going to solder install a capacitor. This is a? U r? U a v combo that has a little cap uh with some wire leads already done.

A lot of people just install these straight to the power leads, but i find for my racers. The open racer has kind of a little slot right there with a couple of holes in here that you can zip tie this to so im going to mount it kind of like right there. So i can put those zip ties through there were just going to tin these little capacitor wires, like that, be careful if you are over your electronics board, im pretty confident im not going to drip, but its just a good measure just to kind of not do It over in case you do have a solder drip for those that are not used to doing this. Now, if you dont have a little self locking set of tweezers youre going to want to get some of those and just make sure you got plenty of solder right there, so that you can hold this in place and just melt it together, give it a little Tug make sure its secure and were going to do the same thing with the positive. Now we have our capacitor installed its time to go ahead and solder up these motor wires so for the ones in the back. I like to kind of take it behind the standoff for the ones in the front. I just like to go straight there, so you can kind of think about how you want those to go beforehand, apply a little bit of flux and were going to take our little tweezers and just kind of lay it right.

On top, you can see again, you dont want the bare wire to be longer than the pad you want it to be about the same size. You just kind of want to hold it on there, so its going to sink right in place as you apply the heat and once it sinks you just let go and a perfect shiny solder. Joint now were going to do the next one and same thing again: youre going to want to angle it till its right on top just apply the heat and a tiny bit of pressure so that it can sink into place and there we go. These dont necessarily have to be perfect. You dont have to eat off of them, but you dont want a lot of bare wire sticking out. You want to have it as close to the pad, as you can were going to go ahead and do the rest. You can also see like the speed that these joints are happening if youre doing it too slow its not going to work out. Well, you just kind of want to get in and out once it sinks to the bottom of the pad youre ready to let go of the heat and keep the wire there until it cools. Now we have all 12 of the motor wire soldered up along with 13 14, 15, 16, so 16 solder joints so far, including the capacitor and all of the motors now its time for the flight controller.

So what youre going to want to do is pay attention to the labels on these pads or go ahead and look up your fleck and try controller diagram. Now what were going to be installing is our camera cable? Normally, you might use a long cable like this, but im actually using a predator 5 nano camera right here that has its own cam camera cable, so were going to use a modified shorty cable that ive created right here and so thats going to be three wires Right there then were going to use the harness to the ghost video transmitter and receiver right here now. We only need four of these five wires and those are all gon na go at the front, so we have camera ground, 5, volt, vtx, ground, 5, volt and tx5. So now that weve identified all of the pads that were going to ten up were gon na. Go ahead and apply some flux to make those flow a little bit easier. Im gon na get our iron now for the motor pads and the power leads i was using the highest. This would go for this iron, the ts 100, its 420 degrees, but for these smaller pads im actually going to come down to ‘0., i dont need as high of heat and were just going to put a little dab of solder on all the pads that were Going to use starting with this second one, the first one is camera control, but we dont need that for this project and notice, how quickly im getting in and out here very quick, and i only need the t pad for the ghost okay so were gon na.

Take our tiny little camera cable that we have made and its gon na kind of point towards the front, so the first ones going to be the yellow camera wire, see we get to go down in that hole. Now i sometimes like to use are some little fun glasses like this. For the very small pads the next one is going to be ground and the next one is going to be five volts. Okay, so theres the camera harness now. I dont need the blue wire on this ghost harness, but this is something if you ever have to re: pin a connector, you get a tiny little sharp object like tweezers or the end of this move that little knob up. Then the wire comes out, and you just push that back into place being careful not to disturb the others, because you want those other ones to stay. Locked in place now were going to kind of measure. How much of this wire we need and its going to kind of go off to the side and in like this so probably about this. Much is good, so were going to cut and then strip these four wires and tend them up one two one. I actually want this harness to go outwards like that, so were gon na. Do it in this direction. This time now all of the soldering is complete, so were gon na twist. Any of these wire sets make sure that our length is good and its going to kind of go like that, which looks great now were going to try to do is place everything where it actually needs to go.

So i want this ghost antenna to go in here like this gon na take this harness put it in place, and this is what connects the flight controller to the electronic speed controller now were going to put the ghost board on top and again were going to Make sure that everything looks seated the way that we want it to be now were going to start routing these antenna wires for the receivers. So this one is actually going to go up front, but before we do that, we want to plug our harness in these ghosts. Have these little ufl, locking things right here so youre going to pull it out so that you can push it on once you have it on the ufl youre just going to push that little locking, connector back, which locks it on there. This one to be done right here, so im going to take the center wire, take it around the front and then pull it around now we have antenna and camera mounting. This part is going to be slightly different for every build, but for me my antenna mounting is running an sma, a ufo to sma to the back of this pod, and then my antenna is just going to screw on right here and the camera. Connector goes right here now. This build has a camera locker that i have right here. This will lock my camera angle at 45 degrees, which is what i like to fly at.

So all i have to do now. This camera locker is specifically made for the foxer predator v5, with the 1.7 lens. So if you had a frame – and i had these – you got to make sure youre running the camera that its built for, because this is specifically sized for the lens. It adds a little bit of protection and it locks the camera in place. So all you got to do and for this theres, a pokey part right here that marks up, and we just kind of push this in everything fits – were ready to go ahead and put our nuts on to close off the stack as were putting these on. We want to make sure theyre not hitting any of these little connectors. Also, if you have a 5.5 box wrench once you have these on, you want to do one last, look to make sure youre not compressing the gummies too too much, but that they are tight on there. So you dont want the nuts to fall off either. So everything looks perfect if you see one gummy thats all the way squished or that the flight controller is not level thats. How you know you need to adjust. Those slightly now were ready to go ahead and put the pot on and then heres the turtle mode fin, which just fits in this little slot right here, and there are some little pins that go in that hold it into place.

Now were almost ready to go. Fly but before we do were going to take a nice thick, zip tie and anchor our power leads into place. Thats in case, if you have a big crash where your battery gets ejected, you dont want it ripping on your esc, pad so hard that you could risk breaking them. So you always want to anchor your battery lead. That goes for a racing style or freestyle. Quad get it nice and tight and now were going to trim all three of these zip ties. The two capacitor and the one for the battery leads youre going to want to have your side cutters as well. So now your build is complete and youre almost ready to go fly, but you still have to set a beta flight first, so check out the video in the corner. Right here, click it were gon na have a full beta flight. Walkthrough a speed run. Everything done in under 10 minutes so stay tuned for that or you, the kind of person that just likes to fly defaults go out. Send it realize one of your motors is spinning the wrong way crash terribly. Hopefully you armed it far away from your face. You did didnt you youre, always safe. You never turn it on inside. You should never turn it on. If it looks like this with the props on for the first time dont, do it dont, do it guys.