DJI Digital FPV on a 3-inch Babytooth Drone! Cool!
This is a new custom, build that i’m testing out. I call it my digi tooth because it’s, basically a 2s baby tooth, but i’ve crammed the dji digital fpv system. In here you can see the naked vista right there in this deck it’s. Only like 59 grams, so it’s still super quiet. I’M gon na have some fun with this thing when flying around these trees. If i don’t completely lose or destroy this thing, then i’ll show you how i put it together on the bench: Music, Music, Applause, Music, Applause, Music, Music, Music, Music with Music. All right, i am back at the house now. I hope you enjoyed that flight footage uh! That was actually one of the first flights that i ever did with this drone uh. I haven’t had that many opportunities to fly because it’s been so rainy here. Maybe you could see the water on the ground in the flight footage uh, but the times that i have flown it’s super fun. So i want to tell you more about this drone and then, if you want to see the rest of that very same flight, i’ll include that later in the video i know, sometimes you guys like to see how it performs all the way to the end of The battery so stay tuned for that, but first i want to tell you more about this drone, the choices that i made as i was building it. The components that i used, including these new 1302 fpv cycle motors and, of course, how i crammed the dji digital fpv system in here so let’s take a look on the bench.
All right here is the build up close. It looks pretty compact and it looks like a regular baby tooth except i’ve got this tpu canopy on here to protect the camera, and you can see the stack is a little higher than usual because on top of the flight controller, there’s two boards – and those are The two boards of the vista air unit – i took it out of its uh metal, heat sinks and the casing of the air unit, so that’s, a naked vista mounted right in the stack with the camera. On top. Some of you might be wondering why i built this as a 2s drone instead of a 1s, because after all, the baby tooth was originally designed as a 3 inch 1s platform and it’s really great that way, i’ve built it that way, i’ve flown it i’ve shown It on this channel multiple times, so i really enjoy those 1s builds, especially when they’re really light for this one, though i decided to go with 2s, because i knew i’d be packing some extra weight and i figured i could use the extra power if i stayed On 1s, then, i’d be drawing a lot more current and getting a lot more voltage sag, and this one on 2s, it actually has more punch, even with the hd camera has more punch than my 1s builds, especially climbing, on high throttle, and the second reason is The vista air unit, according to the specs, it needs at least a 2s input voltage, and so i am powering this one directly from v bat.
These motors are a new size from fpv cycle. They are 1302 and mine, says 8 500 kv don’t trust what it says on the label. These sample motors were actually around 8000 kv and the final version is 7700 kv, there’s also a 1s version of the final motor and you can actually get those right now on the fbv cycle website, they’re called 13 millimeter, baby tooth motors and there’s a 1s and 2S version, so you can check that out. Mine has a slightly higher kv than the final, but actually i found that that was more than i needed. I ended up stopping it down by 80 percent on the motor output limit, so i was actually flying closer to 6400 kv in the flight footage that you saw here. You can see those two motors side by side. This one is the original 1202.5 baby tooth motor, and this is the 1302 motor, so it’s about the same height. Although you can see that this one is bigger around and the weight is pretty similar. Although this one is a tiny bit heavier uh on the fpv cycle website, it says that the final version of this motor is only 0.2 grams heavier than this one there’s a little bit more of a difference for mine, but let’s see so the original 1202.5 motor Is 4.3 grams and then, with my sample 1302 of 4.6 grams and the wires aren’t exactly the same, and this one has a little bit of a plug so take that into account.
They are similar. This one is heavier, but i think that works out fine. For this build at least the added power of the larger motor definitely helps to manage the props and manage the additional load of the hv system that i’m carrying. So i think this is definitely a step up in performance. The dry weight is about 59 grams uh without a battery, and that is actually a really good weight for any dji build, although i don’t think i’m going to set any records with this one. One of you might even have one that’s lighter than this. If so, i’d love to hear about it down in the comment section below, i could definitely go lighter with this one, but i’d have to be giving up durability, and i wanted to find a good balance of durability and performance, and so i’ve still got like a Two millimeter carbon fiber frame – these are still steel bolts, going all the way through with a steel nut on the bottom holding on to the frame, and so this is actually pretty tough. Tpu canopy is pretty tough and yet it’s, only 59 grams and so i’m. Pretty happy about this, if you combine it with a 450 millibar 2s battery. This is enough for three and a half or four minutes of the style of flying that you just saw and that’s about 86 grams total flying weight and for a little bit longer flight time. You could bump up to a 550 like this and then you’re.
Looking at about 91 grams, this frame is, of course, the baby tooth from fpv cycle, and it is the two and a half millimeter thick version. I use the one and a half millimeter version for my ultralight. 1S builds. But this time i figured the extra strength. Would be good because we’re packing a little bit of extra weight, especially with the battery? Normally the frame would come with a little t, brace right here for the crossfire antenna. But i actually cut that off with a saw and then file it down a little bit, because i knew i wouldn’t be mounting the antenna that way – and i also cut down right here – there’s normally four of these bumps that the bolts go through. I actually cut this one off so that the usb could go here because i’m using a woop style flight controller with a down facing usb, and that means that there’s, only three bolts running through the stack, the bolts run all the way through the stack and up Through the canopy and they’re pretty long, so i wanted them to be very strong that’s why i am using a steel bolts right here, it’s m2 and on the other side of the carbon fiber you can see there is an m2 nut and that nut is also Steel and so these two are tightened down as tight as i could make it onto the carbon before i put the rest of the stack on there.
So each of these bolts is very rigidly held in place and that helps to secure the whole rest of this deck and the canopy, even though there’s only three of them. If you look on top, you can see, i added leds to the arms and that’s not just for show. I did that to make the motor wires a little bit longer the motor wires that came on my motors were pretty short. I think they would have been the perfect length to go from the motor to a toothpick style all in one, but i used a whoop style all in one with the downward facing usb they’re a little bit more compact and they put the motor plugs all the Way out on these corners, so it has to reach just a little farther over than it otherwise would, and they just were barely too short. So, instead of extending the wires, i added the leds, but do be aware of that, depending on what kind of flight controller you want to use with these motors. As we move up this deck, you can see everything is separated by nylon, nuts and right above the flight controller. We have the naked air unit. You can see one of those right here, i’ve taken it out of the casing. This is the heatsink and the casing, and the bolts and everything that normally go around a vista air unit. If we weigh all of that stuff, you can see that i’ve removed almost 10 and a half grams from the original weight of a vista air unit, and this is kind of what you’re left with you’ll find.
The air unit looks like this with this blue goop, that conducts heat to the heat sinks, and you can clean it off if you want to. I have not cleaned this one, yet i did clean this one a little bit with an old toothbrush. I just very gently kind of brushed away some of this blue stuff. I didn’t bother getting all of it, but i got some of it off. If you look from the top down, you can see there’s actually two sets of holes on the vista air unit. The inner holes are spaced 20 millimeters apart, and that 20 by 20 mounting, is usually how people mount a vista air unit. But the outer holes that normally hold the heatsink on happen to be perfectly aligned to a woop flight controller. And so, if you line this up with the flight controller, the bolts can go right through there. Almost the problem is the holes are slightly too small for an m2 bolt to fit through. If you have a drill bit that’s, two millimeter or maybe just slightly bigger than two millimeter, that would also work uh, then you can drill out these outer holes and make enough space for the m2 bolt to go all the way through and that’s. What i did. I actually did it by hand with a little hand, drill like this just twist twist twist until it could go through it’s, actually pretty easy and it’s way out here on the edge where you’re not going to touch any of the circuits.
So if you do it carefully, it’s actually pretty easy to do, and then it can just go right onto those bolts on the stack it’s worth mentioning that fat shark also has a high definition. Digital fbv system, now it’s called shark bite and it’s designed to work with regular fpv goggles using the hdmi input, and so that would be particularly interesting on a build like this because they have an air unit or a digital video transmitter that is designed to go On top of a woof flight controller and it’s, a single board that would make this a whole lot easier to build, uh it’d be cleaner and lighter and smaller, and so that would be really interesting. I have not had a chance to try the sharkbite system for myself, so i can’t give you any feedback on that yet uh, but if any of you have tried it, i would love to hear about that i’d love to hear your impressions and the trade offs And what you think of putting it in a build like this, this canopy was designed by racerx fpv it’s, the original twig canopy. You can see another example here on my twig. I don’t think there is an stl file where you can print this for yourself, but you can order one if you want i’ll, put a link down with everything else in the video description. If you want this exact canopy, but you don’t have to use this.
There are other canopies that you could print anything that would go on top of that loop style, mounting pattern and hold the camera would do i kind of like this one, though, because it keeps everything nice and contained inside, including the crossfire. I have a crossfire nano receiver in there because i do own the dji goggles, but i don’t have the dji transmitter so i’m using crossfire and instead of putting crossfire down on the arm. I actually stuck it right through the canopy like this and i’m super happy with that mounting it’s out of the prop line, there’s, no way it can be bent down it. Just works really well right. There you just kind of have to bend the canopy a little bit to fit it in the problem with putting it on the arm is that these mini immortality antennas have a very short lead, and the lead is actually too short to go from the top of This high stack down under the arm to an underarm mounting position but mounting it like this is perfect. The other antenna back here is, of course, a left handed antenna to go with the air unit. This happens to be a true rc, singularity i’m, just running it right out the back and then i’ve got a pair of tiny zip ties holding it to the fin so that if it moves it, doesn’t yank on the ufl connector and finally, that brings us to The camera this is, of course, the nebula nano.
The good thing about the nano is it’s lighter than other dji cameras, and the nano camera is really easy to mount in any kind of canopy that can hold those nano cameras, including this one, so that’s fantastic. The downside is the quality of the image that you get is just not anywhere near as good as the original dji camera like it’s, not even close. The nano pro i hear is very similar in quality to the full dji, but it wouldn’t fit in here either, because it’s, a larger form factor so there’s. Definitely a trade off with that. Pretty sure this camera is version 2 of the nebula nano, because i have another one. I actually pre ordered the nebula nano when they first announced it. So i got one of that first batch and that’s. Actually, what i built in this drone, the first time i built it, and then i took it out to fly it and it was just gross. I was flying it under the trees with light coming through the trees, which is kind of the worst case scenario for the camera, but it was just kind of awful. You can see what that looks like i swapped it to this v2 camera it’s. Definitely better, although you still see that garbage along the tree lines and the sharpness just isn’t the same. So there is a trade off there, i’ve been considering swapping this camera out for a full size, dji camera.
If you do that, and then you strip down the dji camera it’s only like a gram heavier than the nebula nano, but then, of course you need a different canopy to contain it, and there are some canopies like that that have been designed so i’m. Considering that choice, let me know what you think about that going with a naked dji camera versus the nebula nano let’s talk down in the comments below by the way, tattoo recently sent me this battery for testing it’s, the r line, 550 million power, 95 c 2s, And i’ve used rline batteries before for 5 inch racing and they’re great, but i’ve never used one in this size before, but i have to say, i’m actually quite impressed with this battery. It is definitely legit. I tested it on the bench. The internal resistance and the true capacity is fantastic it’s as good as this blue gnb 450, which for a long time, has been the best 2s battery in this size. And so that is high praise for this one and also for the gmb, in the actual footage that you saw, i was using this rdq 525 million power. This is an hv rated battery, but i was not hv charging it. So the actual flight footage you saw had the capacity of about a 450.. I think you can definitely look forward to more videos of this in the future, as i push it harder and harder and really test the limit so feel free to like and subscribe.
If that’s, what you want to do and now let me show you the remainder of the flight, again it’s the same flight from the beginning of the video but carried on to the end of the battery.