The first one is making the wing sand the leading edge and trailing edge of the bottom part of the wing like this and then glue all the formers and spar. I use light weight, 3mm plywood for the spar and formers. You can also use hard balsa for them here. I make paper tube for guiding wing joiner, which is 1 meter length 10 mm carbon tube, make sure you dry fit the joiner before secure the formers on the other wing. Here I add 9 mm plywood for the receiving the screw on the wing former this how I screw the wing when its done for the wing tip, I use 3 mm foam sheet. You need to close the gap on the wing after cutting the aileron, otherwise the wing will be weak. Prepare the aileron like this use, extension, cable for aileron, servo or solder. It like this and the fuselage, because all the landing gear struts for this aircraft is very long. I use 10 mm carbon tube to extend the length, but still using bicycle wheel spoke wire for the wheel, shaft and upper part. Here I begin to build the fuselage from the middle part sand the edge like this, so it will fit with other part. Here I dry fitting both wings to the fuselage puncture, the fuselage sides, with screw on each wing. You will know more plywood to receive the screws. I also add paper tube here to guide the wing joiner and this wire to receive the rear part of the wing also add extension, cable for aileron servo with Y cable.

Here I make score lines for easier bending and, with the help of packing tapes, to prevent the foam from breaking when bending I still use heatgun to soften the foam for easier bending. I use 3mm carbon tube for V, shape, stab spar sand, smooth the leading edge and sand smooth both edges on the elevator. Here I make paper tube to hold the V stab on their position, just make sure aligned 90 degree with fuselage adjust the motor angle. If needed, you need to add cable extension for motor cables position, the ESC on the nose. Here I make the air intake of the turbine engine because it doesnt require strength. I use 3mm foam sheet for it because inside the nose there will be battery camera, ESC and servo. It needs to have strong constructions. So I add this plywood to strengthen the join to the fuselage. I shouldnt do like this. I should build the top nose section separately, not like this. The fuselage is already complete, wet sand, all sharp edges and seams use rough grit, sand cloth and and then smooth it out with medium grit, 240 sandpaper. I will cover the model with painted laminating film here I prepare to paint the back side of the film and then use covering iron with medium heat to apply the film to the foam for the decals. I use printed vinyl stickers file for decals also shared along with the plans I paint inside the air intake with black using water based acrylic paint black color to simulate the depth.

It will looks more scale instead, just plain foam. Next, I will show you how I make pylons for carrying ordnance all bombs and missiles here are made out unused 2021 calendar paper. I use mica plastic covered with paper masking tape for all hinges. Here. I use standard servo for camera hellfire missile from paper and to hold the missile here. I use 10 mm EVA foam. I use elastic thread to help aligning the V stab to the fuselage here. How I install the prop and spinner after attaching the paper spinner, you must balance the prop to have an efficient thrust, make sure it has small deviation on the tip and then label each blade like this. Try to rotate. Usually, it will quite strong vibration on the fuselage because of unbalanced prop and randomly choose the blade or pick the blade that opposite with the spinner seam. Add small amount of hot glue as ballast like this and then try to hit the throttle again and feel the change of vibration if it getting worse so its the wrong blade. Just remove the ballast and choose another blade now, try to add ballast on another blade and then try it again. If it getting less vibration, thats mean thats the chosen one add more hot glue until the vibration is gone or smoothed out. The prop is already balanced and remove the label make a maintenance hatch just in front of the air intake to manage the servo cables.

Here I add nylon thread to hold both landing gear struts, so it wont open up when take off. Oh, the first try the prop is loose, so I need to open up the spinner to tighten the prop screw. My daughter failed to record the first take off so here it is when it flies – and this is the second flight without music. Its very easy to take off because the weight is just 1800 gram, including the camera, also surprisingly, very stable. Although I use gyro on the ailerons and its easy to land too, I think, in my opinion, this project is a success. Finally, my channel reached 50K subscribers. Thank you for all your support. As promised, I will make video on how I design the model it will be in 2022. The next video will be part 1 of how I design flying model aircraft. Thank you for watching.