2022 Freestyle FPV Drone Build – Configuration and Setup
The minute i plug in a battery the next thing weve got to do is configure it in betaflight, configurator and thats. What were going to do today, if youve stumbled across this video somehow, and you want to build your first fpv drone theres a playlist down in the video description where you can get started from step, one. On the other hand, if youre following along lets, get into it, and the first thing youre going to need to do – is get betaflight configurator installed on your computer and there may be some drivers that you need to install as well. Ive got another tutorial video that i made where i went in depth into that topic. If you need some help, getting that done, thats linked down in the video description as well at this point were going to assume that youve got betaflight configurator installed and youre ready to proceed were going to need a charged up lipo battery to power up the quadcopter. Here, while we configure it and youre going to see me using this v fly short saver, ive got a link to my review of the v fly short saver down in the video description. As always, if you want a better idea of what it does and why im using it, you dont have to have this, but it is a little bit safer to be using it than not. The very first thing were going to do is were going to update the firmware on the flight controller.
This is almost always the right thing to do when youre building a new quadcopter, because you havent set the flight controller up at all, so youre not really losing anything. When you flash to a new firmware version – and there usually are bug, fixes or feature enhancements in newer firmware versions that are good to have, if you know for a fact that theres a particular firmware version that you like to use. For example, if youve got betaflight 4.2 on all 17 of your other quadcopters, maybe youd like to go ahead and just put betaflight 4.2 on this one for consistency, but in general, when youre building a new quadcopter thats the perfect time to update to the latest firmware In order to do that were going to plug in usb here, and the very first thing were going to do is actually back up the flight controller configuration as it was delivered to us. So, im going to hit connect and im going to go to the presets tab and im going to click, save backup and thats, going to create a backup configuration file that i can use. If i ever need to know exactly how the flight controller was delivered to me from the manufacturer were just going to save that on my desktop doesnt really matter now, if i open this file up, i want you to see that there is essentially nothing in here. If youre not used to reading betaflight command line dumps, that may not be obvious to you.
Theres, basically, no changes in here from the default configuration. So there really wasnt much point in backing this up, but its still a good step to go through. For example, when we go to flash this flight controller were going to need to know the board name and if you mistakenly flash your flight controller with the wrong board name or its also called the target. If you flash a flight controller with the wrong target, then the original target information is lost and it can be difficult to figure out how to get it back the way it should be. So if youre dealing with a bind and fly quadcopter that came from the manufacturer pre configured, you definitely should back up the configuration before you update the firmware, but even if youre dealing with a completely blank flight controller that came from the manufacturer with nothing on it. Except the defaults, you should still go ahead and back up the configuration. It is a good step to get into any time you flash a flight control, so the board name in question is xylo. F4 were going to make a note of that and then were going to go flash the flight controller well, do that by going to the firmware flasher tab and then the next thing we can do is we can hit this auto detect button to try to automatically Detect the board name or target that is on the flight controller, and in this case it correctly picks up xylo f4.
We should still double check that against the configuration file that we saved just to make sure it gets it right, but xylo f4 is what its got now. The latest firmware version that were going to flash today is actually a little bit. Weird were in a little bit of a weird time frame. The latest actual release version is betaflight4211, but betaflight is just about to release a new version. Version 430 and a lot of people are flashing. The release candidate version of 430, because its pretty much done it has basically no bugs mostly and people can mostly consider it safe to use so im going to enable this show unstable releases, button and im going to click, release and release candidate here and im going To flash betaflight 430 rc 6 is the latest version, hopefully by the time youre. Watching this an actual release. Version of betaflight 430 is out and thats what you should flash if that is available. In the meantime, im going to flash rc6 and if youre following along thats, what you should do as well and then were going to hit load firmware and flash firmware now at this point, if you do not see dfu in the upper right, then you may have A problem with your drivers and again back in that video that where i showed you how to install betaflight configurator, there are instructions about what to do. If you dont see dfu and you need to fix your drivers once the flash has completed, we can go ahead and hit connect and betaflight will ask us if we want to apply custom defaults, and you should always do this almost always do this after flashing, your Flight controller and once done, we can connect again and well get another warning which we will take care of right now to get rid of that warning, we will go to the setup tab and with the quadcopter flat on the table, we will hit calibrate accelerometer and Now we can proceed with the configuration of the quadcopter, and the place were going to start.
First is in the motors. Tab were going to get the motors spinning and get the motor make sure that the motors are spinning the correct direction. The first thing were going to do is were going to check that the esc motor protocol is set correctly and d shot. 300 is the value that we want. The esc motor protocol determines what sort of language the flight controller uses to talk to the esc and youll see. There are quite a few of them. Most of these are historical in nature: theyve just developed over time and slowly gotten better and better. The one that is used in almost all modern builds is d shot and there are three different versions of d shot to shot 150, 300 and 600, and the rule of thumb is that you want to use the highest d shot value thats available to you in This case we could use d shot 600, but because we have an f4 processor. If you look up here, it says xylo. F4. Stm32F405. This is a little bit of a slower processor, its one of the ways that the kit saved money, and so we have to use d shot 300 instead of d, shot 600 and youll probably never notice the difference. The next thing i want you to do is enable bi, directional d, shot and agree to this warning and then were going to hit, save and reboot bi directional d shot is a function that improves the ability of the flight controller, to filter out the motor vibrations And to make the quad fly smoother and better thats the short version.
You basically always want to use bi directional d shot. If your esc supports it, which most modern escs do. We can tell that the esc supports bi, directional d, shot by looking over here, where we see the error percent and it should read zero percent, but it actually reads a hundred percent. In other words, the esc is not talking to the flight controller. The reason for that is that the esc is not powered up, but if we plug in our battery and power up the esc, there we go errors, zero percent and the flight controller and the sc are talking to each other fantastic. The next thing were going to do is were going to check our motor order and our motor direction. So in order for the flight controller to be able to fly the quad, the motors have to be in the position that the flight controller thinks theyre in. In other words, when the flight controller spins the front right motor, it has to actually spin the front right. Motor or the quadcopter wont move the direction that it expects and the motor has to be spinning. The direction that the flight controller thinks, because that controls, which way the prop pushes the quadcopter the way that were going to do that is, were going to first hit this button. Reorder motors, i understand the risks propellers are removed, do not have propellers on the quad when you do this because its going to spin the motors and they could cut something or damage something and then were going to hit start were just going to click on whichever Motor is spinning, so here weve got the back right were just going to click, the back right front, right, back, left and front left, and we will save that well come back here and we will next do the motor direction now for motor direction.
I find it helpful to have just like a little piece of paper or a business card, or something or a dollar bill, because its not always easy to see or feel which direction the motor is spinning again im going to say, i understand the risk. All propellers are removed and im going to hit the wizard and i will choose to start spin. The motors and whats going to happen here is all of the motors are going to begin spinning and im going to look at this diagram and im going to check that the motor directions match this diagram, so the front left motor. It should be spinning clockwise. It is not, you can see so im gon na click, thats motor number, four im gon na click, four, and it will reverse four, and now it is spinning the right way back, left motor should be spinning counterclockwise, it is front right. Motor should be spinning counterclockwise. It is, and the back right motor should be spinning clockwise, it is not, and it is so now we have all four motors spinning the right direction. We can just double check that if we want stop motors and close theres, one more basic check that we need to do to make sure that the flight controller and the motors are all sort of in alignment and its done here in the setup tab. I wish they had a wizard for this, just like they have a wizard for the motors.
Maybe theyll do that in the next version of betaflight. You may remember that we installed this flight controller with the forward facing arrow not facing forward. How are we going to compensate for that and we can verify whether thats affecting the quadcopter by comparing the motion of the quadcopter in the real world with the motion of the quadcopter here on this 3d model. So if i tip the quad to the right, the 3d model tips to the right to the left. The 3d model tips to the left. If i tilt it back the 3d model, tilts back and forward the 3d model tilts forward and then finally, the yaw axis left and right right and left. Rather, it is moving 100 correctly thats, pretty confusing, because i definitely installed the flight controller flipped around backwards. But there you go its moving correctly, so theres, nothing! We need to do great. I guess a little confusing, but okay, this section of the video is going to be about setting up a dji video transmitter. So if youre building the analog version of the quad, there is a table of contents and time stamps down in the video description below and in the timeline uh down below, and you can skip ahead to the next chapter for the dji folks heres. What were going to do were going to start by plugging in a battery to power up the dji or cadx vista video transmitter and were going to want to look at this led here and wait for it to turn green now.
There we go good timing, then, were going to plug in usb and were going to make sure that were plugging in the usb c cable to the caddix vista, not the flight controller. Although the flight controller is a micro usb, so you couldnt really get that wrong. I guess, but what were going to want to do is run the dji assistant 2 dji fpv series app youre going to need to download and install that in your computer theres a link down in the video description below bear in mind. There are two dji assistant apps one is the fpv series and thats what you want and one is not, and if you accidentally download the wrong one. What were about to do wont work. When we run that app, we should see the dji fpv air unit light thats. Our video transmitter were going to click on that and were going to activate it, and basically all this does is associate this piece of equipment with your dji account in case. You need warranty service and we see here that the firmware thats on it is 0.606 and its marked as current great thats. All we need to do. We just want to make sure that weve got the latest firmware if at the time that youre watching this video there is a newer firmware. You should probably go ahead and update to it now if youve just bought the dji fpv goggles – and this is your first time youre using them youre going to need to do the same thing plug them into usb.
The usb port is on the underside of the goggles here, power them up and activate and update the firmware. If there is a firmware update, you also may or may not be using the dji controller. Uh were going to have instructions for setting up the dji controller and for, if youre, doing, a separate receiver like express lrs with the radio master xoro. If you do have the dji controller, you will need to power it up plug in usb, activate and update firmware. As well its dji, you spend your whole life activating and updating firmware. Next, we have to bind the video transmitter, the goggles and, if youre, using the controller, the controller together just so. They know that theyre supposed to work with each other and were going to do that by plugging in a battery to the controller or the video transmitter and im also going to plug in a battery and power up the goggles once the led on the video transmitter Has turned green im going to go ahead and press the bind button which is right here and the led will turn red on the goggles. The bind button is right here next to the power plug its this little red button here and im, going to push it with a 1.5 millimeter driver and that beep sequence will indicate that they have bound successfully and the light on the vista will go back to Being green, if youre using the dji controller, were going to bind that by first powering, it up power it up with a short, followed by a long press and were going to wait for this led to there we go now.
It is powered on if it just beeps at you like beep. It means that the throttle stick is erased. You need to lower the throttle, stick all the way down before it will initialize to put it into binding mode, theres kind of a weird key press. You need to do you need to press at the same time, the record button here on the left, shoulder this unmarked face button, and this little scrolling wheel here also has a button that you press by pressing in youre, going to push all three of those at The same time – and it will do that – and this led will turn blue and itll start beeping and once again were just going to press this button on the vista and it will beep and now it also is bound. You should have a solid green led. We can go ahead and power that down. The next thing we need to do is connect to the controller to the receiver on the quadcopter. This is a process known as binding, and it basically tells the receiver that this is the controller that you should be listening to and not any other controller that might be out there in the world. The controller that were using for this tutorial is the radiomaster xoro, and if youre, following along with this tutorial, thatll, be the one that youve got, you could be using a different one and then the steps that im going to show you for setting up the controller Are going to be somewhat similar for any open, tx or edge tx controller, so thats most of the controllers that are used in the fpv world.
The screens may look a little different because i have a small screen and your radio may have a larger screen, but the general steps are going to be the same now in order to set up express, ls youre, going to need to use express lrs, configurator and Just like i did with betaflight configurator im going to walk you through the steps. But if you want a more in depth tutorial into express lrs, including how to download and install express lrs configurator, then ive got a link down in the video description to my ultimate beginner guide, to express lrs. In the meantime, im going to assume that youve got express, lrs, configurator, downloaded installed and were going to proceed, and once the radio is powered up were going to go ahead and plug in usb on the top of the radio. When you plug in usb youre. Going to be presented with this prompt and youre going to use the jog wheel to choose usb serial debug next in express lrs configurator were going to choose the latest release and oh look its 2 5 0. Oh good theres, a new version just time for me to update for device category were going to type radio master and choose radio master 2.4 gigahertz and for device were going to choose the radio master xaro 2 400 tx after you select the radiomaster zorro as your Radio, the next step is to select your flashing method. The flashing method were going to choose is edge.
Tx passthrough, the regulatory domain will be euce 2400, if youre in the european union, and probably the uk or anywhere else in the world. Your pro, i think that ism 2400 is correct, including the united states is definitely ism 2400 and then youre going to need to enter a binding phrase. This is a text string and it can be anything you want its kind of like a wi fi password any express lrs device. That is flashed with your binding phrase will bind together so were going to flash your radio with the same binding phrase were going to flash your receiver. If you have more than one radio, you can flash them all with the same binding phrase and they will all sort of bind together. You make that make that phrase up. You make it whatever you want and you type it in here and then that is all that you need to do at this point were just going to hit, build and flash. Now, the very first time you flash express lrs, it has to download a whole bunch of stuff from the internet and it may take five or even 10 minutes, depending on how fast your internet is for it to download all that stuff. It normally only takes a minute or two to build at most to build the firmware, but the first time you do it. It will take longer so youre just going to need to wait it out.
After a little while, you will see a message like this auto detected com29 trying to initialize enabling passthrough through done, and then you should see a message like this writing and then at the very end it will say success and you have flash the firmware next were Going to download the express lrs lua script, a lua script is a tiny little program that runs on your radio. Whenever you update express lrs its a good idea to download the latest lua script as well, because sometimes it will have changed, the way were going to do. That is were going to unplug usb to get out of debug mode and were going to plug back in, and this time were going to select usb storage sd from that pop up. When we do that, two new windows will appear, one of them will be named. Rm0 and well have firmware files in it close that one dont touch it dont mess with it. The other one will be usb drive in my case, its drive f, and i want you to look at this contents. That is the sd card that is inside your radio were going to then click download, lua script here in express lrs configurator and then were going to navigate to that folder usb drive, f and then were going to go into the scripts folder into the tools folder And there were going to save that file and you can see elrsv2.lua is already there were going to overwrite that file with the new one, and that is it at this point, were done with the radio and were going to move on and were going to flash The receiver and before we do that, we need to set the receiver up to talk to the flight controller because were going to flash the firmware to the receiver through the flight controller.
So if the flight controller cant talk to the receiver, its not going to work so were going to go back into betaflight, configurator were going to plug in usb, and here are the changes were going to make were going to go to the ports tab and we Need to tell betaflight what port what uart number the receiver is connected to. We put the receiver on tx4 and rx4. You may remember so that is uart4 were going to disable serial rx on uart 1 and were going to enable serial rx on uart4 and then hit save and reboot in the configuration tab were going to make sure that the telemetry feature is enabled were going to Save and reboot and in the receiver tab we are going to set the receiver provider to crsf thats the correct one for express, lrs and well save and reboot. Now, at this point, the flight controller and the receiver should be talking to each other, but the receiver still has not been bound to the controller and the way that we do, that is by flashing firmware to the receiver. I want to acknowledge that my preferred way of flashing the receiver is not the way that were going to do it here. If you go watch my full express, lrs getting started guide, you can see my preferred way of flashing receiver. I ran into a technical difficulty that meant that it didnt work, and rather than make you sort through that technical difficulty im just going to show you a way to do it.
That does actually work. So here in express lrs configurator, we will set the firmware version. Its going to be the same as we selected previously, the device category is going to be happy model 2.4 gigahertz and the device is going to be happy model ep 2400 rx thats, the receiver that were using the flashing method is going to be betaflight passthrough and Our device options are going to be basically the same as they were when we flashed the module, the same regulatory domain and critically the same binding phrase. If you dont put the same binding phrase there, then you will not be able to. They wont, connect to each other. Once thats done were going to choose the serial device that our flight controller is plugged into thats the same com port that appeared up here when we plugged in the flight controller and were going to need to close down betaflight configurator. So its not running. In the background and like trying to mess with that com port and keep us from getting to, it were going to select that com port number here and were going to hit, build and flash and sure enough it has worked. We can see it is writing firmware to the receiver and the led on the receiver has stopped flashing once that is done success now we have flashed the receiver and the controller to the very same firmware, and we can verify that that they are going to talk To each other, the way were going to do that is to power up the controller, welcome to htx and then, with the controller powered up were going to plug in the receiver plug in usb.
The receiver will power up and we should see a solid led here, indicating that theyre bound and communicating now theres a quirk to express lrs that youre going to need to be aware of, and that is that you should always turn on your controller first and then Plug in your quadcopter, and the reason for this is that when you come to htx, the reason for this is that when you first power up the receiver, if it doesnt see the controller in about 30 seconds, the receiver will go into wi, fi mode. You can actually update the receiver over wi fi and if it goes into wi fi mode, then it wont bind until you power cycle. It so always turn on the controller first and then plug in your quadcopter, and everything should work fine. But if one day like people complain, ah thats express lrs man, sometimes it works, and sometimes it doesnt i bet whats happening is that they dont know about that theyre plugging in their quadcopter. First, the receiver goes into wi fi mode, and then it wont work until you power cycle it so dont. Let that trip you up now that the receiver and the controller are communicating with each other. I want to take a few minutes to set up the controller itself and some of these steps are going to be a little unnecessary because the controller comes from the factory with a pretty decent factory configuration. But i want to make sure that were on the same page, and so i want to sort of show you how to start from scratch.
What i want you to do is long press the model key and then i want you to scroll down. Until you see the first empty entry here so for me, its number two, i think the zorro comes with a couple extra models that im not using but scroll down to the first empty entry here and click the jog wheel and create model and youll get a New model and that model will have a star next to it, indicating that it is the currently selected model. Next youre going to press the page forward key here to go to the setup screen, and i want you to scroll the jog wheel. All the way to the bottom of the setup screen to where you see internal rf, the mode for internal rf youre going to set to crsf, and when you do that, you should see that the led on your receiver goes solid again. Assuming your receiver is set up, is powered on at this time and then im going to press the return key to back out to the main screen, and now we have a completely blank completely fresh model. You and i are on the exact same page and were ready to proceed next, were going to go back into betaflight configurator and were going to check in the receiver tab to see whether our receiver is working and were going to do that by moving the sticks. On the controller – and we should see that these control channels move thats amazing, the next thing were going to do is were going to verify that the channel mapping is correct.
Im going to move the throttle, which, for me is the left stick up and down and the throttle does in fact move im going to move the yaw axis, which is the left, stick left and right, and the yaw channel moves correct im going to move the Roll axis yes correct and the pitch axis yes correct, all are correct. The channel mapping is correct. The next thing to check is the end points, and that is when the stick goes. All the way down and all the way up does it move to the correct extent that the flight controller expects, and we can see that it does not. It goes to 988 and 2011., and that is the same for all of these channels. The way that were going to fix that is in the radio were going to long press the model key and were going to page over to the outputs screen and in the output screen were going to highlight channel 1 and were going to long press and edit And were going to go down to the min and max parameter now, first of all, which channel is channel one. You can see that when i move the aileron, the roll channel left and right, we can see up here that this output indicator shows that that channel is the one were moving. So what im going to do is im going to go to the min and im going to click the jog wheel once so min is flashing and then im going to hold the roll stick all the way to the left, so that the channel goes all the Way down to 988 im then going to roll the jog wheel to bring that number up to a value of 1000 and then, when thats done im going to click there and then move the stick to the right im going to highlight the max parameter.
Im going to click the jog wheel and im going to roll that jog wheel until that value comes down to a value of 2 000., so weve got the channel endpoints as 1000 and 2000 and thats pretty much 97.7 for both of them yeah pretty much. So an end point, a min and max of 97.7 gives us the correct 1000 to 2000 value. That betaflight wants to see im now going to hit the return key one time and back out one time again. Im gon na go do the same thing for channel two: three and four each case: im gon na lower and raise or move to the left and right. The stick and im gon na adjust the min and max parameters. So that channel has a value of one thousand and two thousand the good news. Is you only need to do this once and then all the subsequent quads you build, you just bind them to this model and the endpoints are correct, but its a little tedious. The very first time you go through it, i should let you know theres a shortcut you can try and see if it works for you. If you highlight channel one which youve set up correctly and click the jog wheel, you can try the option copy min max to all itll copy, that min and max to all of your channels. And now we can just check throttle 1000 to 2000 access. One thousand to two thousand roll and pitch one thousand to that theyre great, that that worked just fine, its not always going to be the case that all your channels will have the same endpoints but a lot of times.
It will – and in that case, that shortcut will save you some steps. There are a few other changes. I want you to make here in the receiver tab. One of them is to change the stick low threshold, its a 1010. The reason we do that is that the stick low threshold tells the flight controller when the throttle is all the way down and they set that value a little bit conservatively in case you didnt, set your endpoints correctly since weve set the end points correctly. We can refine that number a little bit and itll its a good thing to do for the stick high threshold. We can set that to 1990 and thats doing the same thing at the top of the throttle and then were going to hit save the next thing. I want you to do is long press, the sys key, and this is going to show us a list of those lua scripts that are on the radio, those little programs that we installed. The express lrs lua script im going to scroll the jog wheel, all the way down. Until i see the express lrs lua script by the way, dont be confused by the fact that there is also an elrs lua script on some radios thats. An older version of the script that youre not going to use, they just include it in case youve, got older firmware and need it. We want the express lrs lua script and then, when we run that we should see this uh.
One thing i want to call your attention is that we have a c here in the upper right, and that tells us we are connected to our receiver id like you to highlight the packet rate and click the jog wheel and id like you to change the Packet rate from 500 down to lets change that to 50., and the reason i say change that to 50 is that itll be back in a second the reason i say change that to 50 is that the lower packet rate will give you a higher latency connection, But as someone whos building your first quad youre, probably not going to care too much about the ultra low latency, but that lower packet rate will give you a much longer range and more more penetration link and i think, for a beginner building their first quad thats. What the priority is going to be, if you get to be a much better pilot and you want to experiment with a higher latency link, i mean a lower latency link. Then you can raise that packet rate. The other change i want you to make here is to change the switch mode from hybrid to wide, and that will you can learn more about hybrid versus wide in my express lrs tutorial, but for now just go ahead and make that change and trust me thats. What you want to do, theres, one more setting that i forgot to mention when i was originally doing this setup and that is tx power.
The higher the tx power, the faster the batteries on your radio, will run down, but the more range you will get ive got mine set to 250 milliwatts and youre going to want to just glance at that if, for some reason, its set down like at 10 Or 25 milliwatts youre youre gon na notice a reduction in range, and you may even fail safe 250 milliwatts is more than sufficient for almost anything that you would want to do, especially because were running the 50 hertz packet rate, which gives us the maximum possible range. If at some point in the future, you decide to go for the lower latency higher performance, 500 hertz packet rate, then youre going to notice, you may notice a reduction in range and at that point you may want more output power, some modules, not the radio master Zorro but some modules can go up to 200 up to one watt, and that would be a case where you would want that. But as long as were running on this lower packet rate, 250 milliwatts is going to be plenty. Next were going to go to our presets tab and i want you to select the rc link presets and i want you to find the express lrs, 50 hertz preset, which is right here. Im going to click on that and were going to choose for fine tuning. Were going to choose the freestyle preset with betaflight 4.3, you can refine the performance of the control link a little bit by choosing the correct preset.
The defaults will work fine, but as long as youre, following along with me, lets, take the step to make it as good as it can be, and i would also like you to enable the single cell value voltage reading and we will choose pick lets pick a Few more presets, while were at it, were going to go to the rates presets and im just going to type bardwell here, joshua bardwell rate im going to give you my freestyle rates, and we dont need to select any option. Well, just pick this as well, and then we will hit save and reboot while thats rebooting. Let me take a second to tell you what joshua bardwell rates even means the rates setting in a quadcopter controls how fast the quadcopter spins when you rotate the stick. So if i take this stick and i push it all the way to the right is the quadcopter gon na go super fast, like mr steel, or is it going to go slowly for a beginner, obviously having slower rates might be better, but for the way freestyle? Pilots usually set up their rates is so that at the center stick, when you deflect the stick just a little bit, you get slow movement, but then, when you fully deflect the stick, the quad moves a little bit quicker, which lets you do snappy moves. If you want something a little bit more conservative, you can go into the presets and you can choose rates and you can look for the 533 533 heads up racing rates.
These are rates by heads up fpv for racing, and you might think that racing rates wouldnt be good for a beginner, but racing rates are usually low and precise because thats what racers want. So you might choose that if you want something a little more conservative next thing we need to do is set up our switches on the controller and the way were going to do that. First of all, if youre still in the express lrs lewis, script hold down the return key a couple times to get back out to the main screen, then long press the model key and page over to the mixer screen, not the inputs. The mixes screen were going to scroll. The jog wheel, down to channel 5. were going to click the jog wheel. One time were going to scroll down to highlight source were going to click the jog wheel, one time and the switch that you flick is going to be. The switch that is assigned to this aux channel so were going to need to think about which switches were going to use for which functions, because we may not use all of them in this case. What id like you to do is flip. The two position switch on the left shoulder and when you do that, youll see that source se is filled in here. Just click the jog wheel, one time so it stops blinking and then press the return key one time and again to back out to the mixes screen and now youll see that channel 5 is being controlled by switch s e next were going to do the same Thing for channel 6 well highlight it.
Well, click the jog wheel, one time well go down to source; well, click, one time, so it flashes and for this one i want you to press this to this momentary button here and it will fill in sd. Well, click. The jog wheel, one time to accept that will stop flashing switch, sd and well hit return once and twice to back out again and then for channel 7. I want you to go down to source and were going to click. This three position switch here on the right hand, shoulder and it will fill in switch, sc and well click the jog wheel, one time so it stops flashing and back out and youre, probably thinking well. Why do we pick those switches and not some other switches, and the reason is that ive been flying for years, and i have a certain way that i like to set my switches and its just how my brain works and im gon na just have you follow Along with me, you can set any of these switches to control any aux channel in any function and, as you get more into building quadcopters, you may find that theres a certain way you like to do it thats different than this. For example, i use a two position: switch to arm and disarm my quadcopter some people like to use a three position switch where the middle position is arm and disarm, is pushing up or down from that middle position.
They think its easier to disarm. If you dont have to remember which way to push the switch thats, not how i like to do it, but it could be how you like to do it for now just follow along now that weve assigned these switches to the different aux channels. You can see that when i move the switches, those aux channels move here in the receiver tab. So now the flight controller is seeing what were doing with these, and we can tell the flight controller what we want it to do when we move. Those switches were going to do that in the modes tab and heres. How were going to set up our modes under the arm mode were going to hit, add range and then were going to flick the left hand. Shoulder switch were going to flick it towards us and were going to grab this yellow bar and were going to move that over, so the yellow bar is on top of this little yellow tick mark. The way that this works is this tick mark shows us the current channel position. So, as i move the switch the tick mark moves up and down by moving. This yellow bar were telling the flight controller. When we want the mode, the arming mode to activate when the channel is in this position, so we want to arm when the switch is in this position and we will hit save, were going to add range for angle mode.
And i want you to flick this three position. Switch on the right hand shoulder and were going to put that in the middle position, and we dont need to move this yellow bar at all, because its already in the middle position and well hit save were going to scroll down the next. One were going to find is the beeper mode were going to hit, add range and were going to press this button and youll see that makes that little yellow tick mark go in the upper position, the right most position. So we want the beeper to activate when we press the button, so were going to move this slider over and were going to save that and then well continue to scroll down. Until we find flip over after crash, were going to hit, add range and were going to put this upper right hand shoulder in the position most towards us towards us thats, going to put that in the right most or high position and were going to drag this Over so it covers up that tick, mark and save and then were going to scroll all the way up to the top and were going to hit hide unused modes to see all of the aux modes that weve set up and we can review what our switches Do so the default position is going to have all the switches pushed away from ourselves when you first power up your radio, you can just make a mental note to just push all the switches away, and that will be the default position for them when we want To arm the quad to fly were going to pull this switch towards us and the quad will arm.
If we want to be in auto level or angle mode were going to put the switch in the middle position. If we have, the switch pushed away from us were going to be in acro mode, or so we can do freestyle by the way. There is no acro mode here on the modes. Tab, acro mode is just the absence of angle mode. If we want to make the quad beep because we have lost it, weve crashed somewhere, we dont know where it is. We can hit this button to activate the beeper and it will beep and then finally, flip over after crash, also known as turtle mode is used to flip the quad over if its crashed and its upside down and you dont want to walk and go, get it And i can demonstrate how to use that later in this series. Now your aux modes are completely set up. If youre using the dji video system, there are some betaflight setup steps that are unique to you, just like i said other times in this series, if youre using analog, you can skip this chapter by using the chapter markers in the timeline or the timestamps and chapter Markers down in the video description were going to start here in the ports tab, and this is the setup for analog, which i did first and now im going back to record the dji stuff. Second, so your ports tab may not look exactly like mine, but the thing that you want to look for is im going to disable smart audio on uart, 5.
thats, an analog thing, and instead on uart3 im going to enable the msp tick box. If youre using the dji controller theres one other change youre going to make, but if youre using the radio master xoro with express lrs, you will not make this change and that change will be to disable serial rx on uart4 and enable serial rx on uart 1. Only if youre, using the dji controller and we will save and reboot the next thing were going to want to do, is set up the on screen display and the on screen display you see here is what i had set up for my analog video transmitter. It turns out that the dji goggles only support certain on screen display elements so theres a separate, osd setup that i like to use for dji. We can get that in the presets. Tab were going to hit preset sources, and i have my own private, presets, repository or repo. You can find it here and you can access it by clicking, add new source and put the name jb private repo and the url, which is going to be this url, which ill put down in the video description and the github branch is jb presets. You need to enter it exactly like you see here and then youll hit, make active and ok and then once you get there, you should be able to find the preset jb osd for dji were going to click that uh.
We do not have a gps on this quad, so we do not need to enable the gps option. We will just hit pick and save and reboot in order to get the osd working theres. A change we need to make in the goggles were going to do that by going to the settings menu, and then we are going to go down to display and were going to enable custom osd that needs to be on, and once you do that, you should See the osd elements in the goggles similar to what you see here in the osd tab, but laid out a little differently, because the dji goggles are widescreen. The next part of this setup youre only going to do if you are using the dji controller. If youre using the radio master zoro with the express lrs receiver, then youll skip this part im going to go ahead and plug the video transmitter in. You should always unplug the video transmitter when youre not using it because it gets kind of hot and it wont be damaged, but its not good to have it just sitting. There sort of cooking itself were going to plug that in and were going to turn on the controller with one short press, then a long press and itll power up in order to get that controller working we need to make the following changes were going to change The serial receiver provider from crsf to sbus and hit save and reboot, and at that point you may or may not see movement here in the receiver tab when you move the sticks, if you do see movement thats great, if not theres, another setting that we need To check, in fact, you should check this setting anyway, because it decreases the latency of the connection and theres, not really any downside to it in the goggles, go to the settings menu and then down to device in device youre going to go to protocol.
And you want to make sure that the protocol is set to sbus baud fast. If you made that change in your goggles, you may not have any movement now here in the receiver, tab and theres. A setting in the flight controller that needs to match were going to go to the cli tab and in the cli tab were going to type set sbus underscore baud underscore fast. You can see here its auto completing that for me, so i can just hit the tab key on my keyboard to auto complete that, but were going to type set sbus underscore bot underscore fast equals on and then were going to type. The word save and at that point the goggles and the flight controller should match, and you should have movement in the receiver. Tab next were going to go to the modes tab and the modes. Tab is where you tell the flight controller. What you want all these switches to do like one of the switches causes the quadcopter to arm, so you can fly it and another switch causes a beeper to go off. So if youve crashed and lost the quadcopter, you can find it and basically theres these switches and you can sort of make them do whatever you want them to do. Theres, no really standard layout, well ive kind of got a standard layout that i like to use for all my quads and im going to walk you through setting it up.
So the first thing were going to do is hit add range here for the arm mode. The arm mode tells the quadcopter that you want to fly, causes the props to start spinning and the sticks to start making the quadcopter go, and what were going to do is were going to take this switch and were going to put. This switch were going to pull it towards us into the upward position and when we do that, if i move that switch back and forth, you see this little yellow tick mark here moved back and forth, showing us the current switch position. So im going to put that into the upward position pulled towards me: im going to click and drag this yellow bar over, so its on top of the tick mark and basically, whenever that tick mark is inside, this yellow bar that mode will become active. So what were telling the quad the flight controller now is, when i flip this switch away from me, the quad should be disarmed. When i flip it towards me, the quad should be armed. The next thing id like you to do is click, add range for the angle mode and this front switch here were going to put that in the middle position. Angle mode is auto level. It makes the quad a little easier to fly, but you cant do cool flips and rolls angle mode is great for beginners to start out in. If you have experience flying in acro mode or freestyling, then you could choose not to use it, but i always set up angle mode on all my quads.
I like it to be the middle position on this front, switch and well thats, exactly how its currently set up next were going to scroll down until we find beeper were going to add range and were going to flip this shoulder switch here in the rear towards Us were going to drag this over, so it covers that little tick mark and theres, one more its going to be flip over after crash. That is also known as turtle mode. Its used to flip the quadcopter over, if it crashes and its upside down and ill show you later in this series, how to actually use it. But for now just hit add range, and that is going to be the downward position on this front. Shoulder switch and we will drag this over to cover that tick mark in that downward position, and then we will press save and the quadcopter has started beeping. Why? Well, if i go up to the top here and hit hide unused modes, i can see only the modes that ive actually set up and thats, because this switch, this beeper switch, is in the beeper position, making me beep, so the rule of thumb for setting up A controller is that the default position for all the switches should be with the switches pushed away from you, so that when you first start the controller up, you just pick it up and you push the switches all the way from you, and you know that everything Is in its default position, whatever you expect that to be, and then you maybe you arm the quad, or maybe you put the quad in angle mode or you make the beeper beep its up to you.
Next lets get the video transmitter and the camera working correctly, and the first thing i want to do is just plug in the quad and see if the video transmitter is working like it should be right and im going to be using this handy dandy, little screen, Which comes with the emacs easy pilot, which i just reviewed on my channel to lets just scroll through the channels and see if we can find oh there it was. I saw something there. It is. Ah, i got it, it is transmitting our camera is working thats. A good sign lets proceed. Whenever i set up a new quadcopter, i go into the on screen display tab and i set up the osd elements to be. The way that i expect them to be on screen display is essential for well, for example, by turning on the battery average cell voltage, and then we can drag it around and maybe well put it in the lower left corner or something its essential like knowing. When your battery is about to be dead, when you need to land theres a whole bunch of other information here and obviously were not going to go into every single one of these in todays video, rather, what im going to suggest you do is go into the Presets tab and then youre going to need to click, preset sources and youre going to need to add new source. When you add a new source, you give it a name and you give it a url.
And what youre going to add is this name and url that you see here and ill put this link down in the video description as well. You need to enter this text exactly as you show here and then once youve added that source youre going to hit, make active, and that is my private github repo for betaflight presets. Once youve done that you can find the jb osd for analog and sharkbite preset and were going to choose pal, because i believe thats what this camera is and were going to pick and save and reboot. When we do that, we should see yes, fantastic. The on screen display is set up just how i like it now a lot of this stuff isnt going to be immediately obvious what it is, especially if youre just getting started. You may even want to go through and turn off some of these things you may want to drag them around and lay them out. However, you want thats totally up to you, but let me take you through a couple of these that i think you probably want to know about, and probably the most important one is the battery cell voltage here down in the lower left when that reaches about 3.