The New Creality Ender-3 S1 Review!
Well, take a look at the brand new Creality Ender 3 S1 3D printer Stick around and well get into it right after this Im Bryan and you … are watching BV3D Hi welcome back Hey if youre new, here and youre wanting to learn about 3D Printing 3D Modeling and other 3D Printing related stuff start now By subscribing and clicking the bell, so you dont miss anything. Okay, so today were going to get our first look at Crealitys brand new Ender 3 S1., A big thanks to Pergear for sending this to me for review. Pergear is a company which mostly sells photography, lighting and equipment, but also has a few Creality items.. So without further ado, … is that the same as with further a dont Ill just dive right into talking about the printer.? Okay, the Ender 3 S1 is the latest in the Ender 3 line of 3D printers from Creality. Its got roughly the same design as previous models, but adds some refinements. And in the same way, that the Ender 3 v2 incorporated several popular upgrades to the Ender 3 And Ender 3 Pro Creality continues that trend with the S1.. So in addition to the Ender 3 v2 features like the color LCD power supply mounted inside the printers case, silent stepper, motor drivers, belt tensioners and a handy tool drawer. The Ender 3 S1 adds a filament run out sensor, auto bed, leveling sensor, dual z, axis stepper motors, a removable magnetic spring steel sheet with a PC print surface and a new lightweight dual gear.
Direct drive extruder that Creality is calling the Sprite.. So this makes it the first Ender 3 that ships stock with a direct drive extruder The hot end sports, a standard 0.4 millimeter nozzle, and while it can be heated to 260 Celsius, its still a PTFE lined hot end. So I dont recommend going over 235 or 240 with it.. Its build volume is slightly larger than that of the Ender 3 V2 at 220 by 220 by 270 mm, so it can print things 20 mm taller than the v2.. It also has a new 32 bit main board with an SD card slot. Yes, the full size kind that are easier to handle and a USB C port., the heated beds, cable and strain relief. Look a lot beefier, too. And Creality hints at some extras. You can buy for it, such as a laser tool head and a light. Bar. Current pricing on Crealitys site shows the S1 priced at ‘9.00, which is 134.00 more than the Ender 3 v2.. The price difference is actually a tiny smidgen less than if you were to purchase an Ender 3 v2, a filament sensor, a bed probe a magnetic spring steel print surface and a dual z axis, upgrade kit and a direct drive extruder.. Okay, its only about a dollar and a half difference., But in addition to saving a buck and a half with the S1, you dont have to wire and install all that stuff yourself.
. So are you wondering what else comes in the box besides the printer? Well heres? What you get., You get a power cord, you get an SD card and a USB card reader. You get a small screwdriver, a scraper, a set of Allen wrenches, and these are basic, not the usual ball end. Wrenches Creality usually includes you, get wrenches for adjusting the eccentric nuts on the v slot wheels and for working on the nozzle, and you get an acupuncture needle that you can stab the nozzle with if it gets clogged.. I dont know if that really helps., but it can be a good way to take out your frustrations on the nozzle.. You also get a few spare parts., You get a Z, end, stop stop switch in case. You dont want to use the bed probe or if the bed probe fails., You also get a spare nozzle and you get spare screws because there are screws left over ON PURPOSE. After you finish, assembling the printer., Oh and theres also a warranty card, a couple of Creality stickers and a Getting Started manual., But the manuals got finer print than a cell phone contract. US dime for scale., Fortunately theres a PDF version of the manual on that SD Card, so you can look at it on your computer and zoom in on it.. Now I decided against making an assembly video because Crealitys already done it. That video too is on the SD card.
And you can also find it on Crealitys YouTube channel.. But I will briefly mention the steps involved. Its actually a lot easier than assembling the Ender 3v2, because the gantry is already built.. So basically the gantry needs to be bolted to the base. Then the Sprite extruder gets bolted to the X carriage. Mounting. The extruder is easy, it just hangs in place and then you secure it with four screws., Then put the spindle on the spool holder and snap that onto the top crossbar. Bolt the screen bracket to the side of the printer snap, the screen on and then plug In all the cables. Finally set the voltage switch on the back of the printer to match what comes out of your wall, outlets. and youre done assembling the printer. With the printer assembled. The next thing to do is to run the Auto Level process.. This creates a mesh by probing the bed at 16 points in a 4×4 grid.. The mesh is like a topographical map of the bed and lets the printer know where it has any high or low spots.. Once the auto leveling process has finished probing the bed its time to set the Z, Offset. And since Ive had questions in the past about what the Z Offset is Ill. Try to explain it better here. See the CR Touch. Bed probe uses a metal pin to probe the bed.. Usually that pin is retracted and is higher than the nozzle.
. But when the printer homes, the Z axis, it deploys the pin which moves past the nozzle and closer to the bed., And when the pin touches the bed, the probe is triggered and then the printer checks a second time more slowly. And finally, the pin is retracted into the probe., So the Z Offset value represents how high above the bed, the nozzle is when the probe gets triggered.. In other words, how much lower down does the Z axis need to move until the nozzle touches the bed? Well rely on the paper pincher method to determine when the nozzle is at the right height.. So after the leveling operation home, the printer. Click PREPARE, then AUTO HOME. When homing is complete. The printer leaves the nozzle about 10 or 12 mm above the bed. Then put a piece of paper between the nozzle and the bed. Were still in Prepare, so click MOVE then MOVE Z and set Z to zero.. This moves the nozzle to its zero point where the printer thinks it should be touching the bed.. In reality, the nozzle may not be close enough to the paper yet to pinch it against the bed., But then again it may be so close. You cant even move the paper., But thats. Why were here. Were going to make an adjustment. Still in Prepare click, Z, OFFSET and then adjust its value until while moving the paper back and forth, you feel it being pinched a bit between the nozzle and the bed.
. The adjustment is live, meaning that, as you set the value by turning the knob, the printer is actively moving. The Z axis., The more negative, the number, the further down the nozzle goes. And the more positive the number the higher the nozzle goes.. So once you have it adjusted so that you can feel the paper being pinched lightly between the nozzle and the bed, click again to accept that value.. Both the mesh data from the auto leveling process and the Z Offset value are saved to the printers memory automatically.. Okay, the printer is assembled, the auto leveling is done and the Z Offset is set. Whats next Well lets load some filament and print one of the models included on the SD card To load filament. The nozzle has to be heated up, so click into PREPARE. Then PREHEAT PLA. This will heat the nozzle up to 200 Celsius and heat the bed to 60 degrees.. While things are heating up put the spool on the spool holder. Then use those flush cutters to cut a 45 angle on the end of it.. I always make a POINT of doing that. Get it A point: Eh …, okay.. Well, next feed the filament through the filament sensor., Once the nozzle has reached that 200 set point push the filament loading lever to the side and insert the end of the filament into the top of the extruder. Push the filament on down until it starts squiggling.
Out of the nozzle. Now that the filament is loaded lets print, something from the card. Click into PRINT to see whats on the card., I think Ill print, the rabbit.. So this little blue bunny came out pretty good. Theres just a couple of strings in between the tips of the ears., Not bad, for a pre sliced file, So whats next Well, you will probably want to print something besides the couple of files that Creality included on The card. That means youll need to use a slicer and Creality includes their own custom version of the Ultimaker Cura slicer on the SD card.. The software included on the cards can sometimes be dated, so I recommend pointing your web browser at creality.com clicking SUPPORT at the top right corner and then DOWNLOADS. From there. You can get the latest release of the slicer for Windows or macOS. After its downloaded, install it and then run it. Follow the prompts, and when you get to the part where youre selecting a printer pick, the Ender 3 S1. From there, its simply a matter of Dragging in a 3D model in stl format, selecting a material type and then selecting a profile, these are listed by layer height, which affects the quality and clicking the SLICE button.. I almost always use the 0.2 millimeter layer height for my prints., Its a good balance between quality and speed.. If you dont see the material menu, I discovered, I have to make the window REALLY wide to make it appear.
, I think maybe Creality should fix this. So its always visible, even if the window isnt super wide. And I recommend sticking with the generic material types at first., The Generic PLA is set to print at 200 Celsius with a 60 bed, and it has the retraction set at Crealitys suggested 0.8 mm at 40. Mms. Theyre a good starting point.. If you need to change any of these values, for instance, if you need to edit the printing temperature or confirm the retraction settings, click the CUSTOM button and look inside the following settings: groups, MATERIAL for nozzle and bed temperature and TRAVEL for retraction settings.. If you find youre changing these settings all the time, you might want to duplicate the generic PLA and customize it to save yourself some hassle. Anyway, once the model has been sliced, save it to the SD card and eject the card from the computer.. Then put the card into the printer click PRINT and select the file to print it. And thats. All there is to that. I like that. Creality has included settings for pretty much every filament based printer theyve ever made., Okay. Next, I wanted to test the Power Loss. Recovery feature so I started printing an XYZ cube.. I let it run for a few minutes. I think it was on about the third layer.. Then I turned off the printer, waited a few seconds and turned it on again.. When the printer powered up again, it asked if I wanted to resume the print.
So, of course, I said YES. And it homed the X and Y axes and reheated the bed and nozzle and went back to the job of printing. And when it finished printing that layer it promptly jammed the nozzle right down through the print. And right through the Pc print surface. And just for good measure, it wiggled it around a little bit too. The only thing that stopped it was the spring steel sheet and me turning the power off.. I have absolutely no idea why that happened or what the printer was thinking.. So now that part of the build plate is just a little bit on the ruined side.. Well that clearly didnt go to plan.. Next, I wanted to test the filament runout sensor, so I started a new XYZ cube. Again I let it run for a few minutes and then cut the filament where it enters the sensor.. Once the filament had been pulled past, the switch inside the sensor, the printer paused and prompted me to reload the filament., Which I did. And then told the printer to continue., And THAT worked just fine.. So for those of you keeping score at home, its Filament Runout Sensor 1 Power Loss Recovery. 0.. I also wanted to check some safety related things.. First, I wanted to check on the high current wiring inside the case. Im, referring to the 24 volt power input and the nozzle heater and bed power outputs on the printers main board.
. These are almost always connected using clamping terminal blocks and what Im looking to see is first off if the wires are going into this kind of terminal block and if they are whether theyre terminated with crimp on ferrules or if the ends of the wires are tinned. With solder. Tinning, the ends of the wires with solder is specifically called out by a manufacturer of this kind of terminal block as a bad practice for high current wiring and Ive got a whole video about that on this card right up here.. So I opened the case and I was quite pleasantly surprised to see that Creality had installed ferrules on the ends of the 24 volt wires from the power supply and on the bed heater wires.. They didnt need to do that on the nozzle heater wires, because theyre using several of the wires in the ribbon cable to carry that current and the ribbon cable plugs into a different kind of socket., So Ferrules Check. Next, I wanted to see if Creality had the thermal safety features enabled in firmware.. Specifically, I wanted to see if a thermal runaway error could be triggered if the printer wasnt able to keep the nozzle at a given temperature. On 3D printers, where I can power the main board from its USB port. I can pretty easily test whether this feature is enabled., But the Ender 3 S1 cant be powered by its UBS port, nor does its port provide power.
Out. Trust me thats for the best. So anyway back to testing the thermal safety features.. My testing method simulates a situation where the temperature sensor becomes separated from the nozzles heater block.. If that were to happen for real on a printer, that didnt have thermal safety, enabled the printer wouldnt be able to read the temperature of the nozzle.. It would see the temperature dropping and would try desperately to keep the nozzle at printing temperature., And so it would end up leaving the heater cartridge on getting ever hotter, but it wouldnt know how hot it was really getting. And before too long it could get hot Enough to set something on fire., But with thermal safety, enabled if the printer sees the temperature dropping and it cant get it back up to temperature within a few minutes, itll show an error and cut power to the heaters.. So my method of simulating this event is by bringing the nozzle up to temperature and then unplugging the nozzles heater cartridge.. The net result is that, even though the printer is providing power to the connector, the cartridge is unplugged and therefore is not heating. And the temperature drops and the printer cant get the nozzle back up to temp.. If the printer has thermal safety enabled it will show an error and cut power to the heater. Like I mentioned a minute ago., So I removed the extruder assembly from the X carriage. Its held in place by four screws.
. Then I set it face down on the bed and in CONTROL and then TEMPERATURE. I set the nozzle to 200 Celsius. Once it was at temperature. I unplugged the heater cartridge and, of course, the temperature started to drop. And hey after a few moments. The printer showed an error and let loose with some loud beeps to get my attention and I had to turn it off to make it be quiet.. So Thermal Safety Check With the safety checks done lets. Look at some of the things I printed. The Ender. 3. S1 can print a BUNCH of different filament types. Ive printed things in PLA, PETG and TPU.. These were all sliced with Creality slicer and printed at the standard quality using 0.2 mm layer. Height. Here are some things that I printed in PLA.. I printed a couple of retractionstringing tests. Creality slicer is using a 0.8 mm retraction at 40 mms, which worked out great., Yeah theres, a whisps, but nothing out of the ordinary. And heres a 3D Benchy which turned out ridiculously smooth. Aheres one little line here where it Looks like a bit of filament had been cooking on the side of the nozzle for a little while and then finally decided to be a part of Team Benchy.. I cant really blame that on the printer, though. And everything else about this is great. And check out this CaliCat.. Absolutely perfect. Oh and these diagonal lines youre seeing are the infill pattern.
where it connects to the walls., But the finish seems super smooth.. I also printed the iDig 3D Christmas Tree in spiral, vase, mode. Or vozz mode. Ill just say it both ways so everybodys happy.. This is printed at the full build height of 270 mm and its just awesome., Even the super pointy tip came out super pointy. I also printed a couple of things in TPU.. The first one is a vibration dampening foot for a 3D printer.. It was designed to be printed with a non squishy filament like PLA or PETG, but I thought it would be fun to see what happened when I printed it in TPU.. Now, printing, it in TPU is completely impractical, because TPU is far too soft for this design. To actually support the weight of a printer., But it came out really really good and really really squishy and totally unsuitable for its intended purpose, but definitely fun to smoosh.. Now. This, of course, is a tire.. I have no idea what its supposed to fit, but it looked like the kind of thing that youd print in TPU., Due to being thicker its a little stiffer than the printer foot thing, but its still definitely squishable. And with both of these theres. Next to no stringing. Im super impressed with the S1s ability to print TPU. Now its time for a PETG print or two.. These are printed in Alien, 3Ds, Alien, Ooze PETG. Here is an XYZ cube.
. It came out pretty good.. You can see the infill through the sides because of its translucency., But where this filament REALLY impresses me is when its printed in a single wall spiral vase mode print like this low poly faceted rose vase., It looks like green glass. I think its a really beautiful, result. Okay., So weve gone over the printer done some safety tests and taken a look at some prints. Now Id like to share what I like and dont like about the printer, starting with the things I dont like.. So, first on the list, the utter failure of the Power Loss – Recovery feature.. I have no idea what went wrong with that, but Creality definitely needs to look into it and fix it.. I 100 recommend you DO NOT use that feature until Creality declares it fixed or youre going to have a bad time.. Next up the noise level., It seems quieter than other Ender 3 series machines, but the fan that cools the electronics enclosure and the fan in the power supply are somewhat loud.. I also found a couple of temperature related quirks with the printer. First in CONTROL and then TEMPERATURE, the nozzle and bed. Temperatures can be adjusted., But I found that I was unable to set them any lower than 5 Celsius., Even if theyre already at zero. As soon as I start to make an adjustment, it immediately jumps to 5 degrees.. The only way to set them back to zero degrees is to go into PREPARE and then COOL DOWN.
. Second, the Auto Level feature turns off the bed heater when it starts the probing process.. I prefer to have the bed at printing temperature when the Auto Level feature probes it, because the beds shape may be slightly different between its cold and its heated. States., Like it might warp just a little bit., Unfortunately, since the Auto Level feature turns off the bed when it starts the bed cools off during the probing process which may affect the readings.. I guess the last thing Im not too fond of is the placement of the parts cooling fan.. It blocks my view of the nozzle, but I understand why it is where it is. And now heres what I like about the S1.. It looks pretty slick. It does. I, like it., The injection molded front plate, pushes the aesthetics of the Ender 3 series forward and looks more consumer friendly., And while the Creality branded addition of the Cura slicer can be a little buggy at times. It is nice from a consumer point of view that there is a slicing solution with configurations for every FDM printer Creality ever made.. That makes it easy for new 3D printer users to get up and running quickly. Slicing and printing models with profiles tuned for their printer.. Also, I find that I really like the full size SD card slot.. The cards are easier to handle and harder to lose. Its also nice that the S1 can print things that are a little bit taller than you can manage with a regular Ender 3 series printer, except for the Max.
, The Sprite extruder is quite good.. Its direct drive has dual drive gears gripping the filament and has a three to one ish gear ratio and its lighter than other direct drive extruders., And it did a fantastic job with that flexible, TPU filament.. I also like that the S1 is easier to assemble than previous Ender 3 series printers. And while the other fans on it are loud, the fans on the extruder assembly are quieter than previous Ender, 3 machines. And the drawer on the front holds even more stuff than The Ender 3 V2 – I can even get that scraper in there.. The spring steel magnetic flex plate with the PC print surface, is nice.. The prints stick well to the plate and theyre easy to remove by removing the plate and flexing it. And Im pretty impressed with the print quality.. Okay, I think, were just about done.. I want to mention that this review is based on having spent a week putting the printer through its paces and while its not a long term durability test. My other Ender 3 series printers have all held up really well.. I do think the printer could be even quieter.. Artillery can do it, so I think Creality can do it too. The Ender 3 series has been getting better and better, so I didnt find much to dislike, except, of course, Im really super unhappy about the weird behavior of the Power Loss, Recovery, feature., So thats, the Ender 3 S1.
. It has a bunch of upgrades over the Ender 3 V2., Its pricier than the v2, but if you were to buy a v2 and upgrade it to the same specs as the S1, its about the same., The benefit is that those upgrades are already done for you. So you dont have to wire stuff in on your own. And its easier to put together.. So overall, I think the Ender 3 S1 is a pretty good choice. If you need its extra bells and whistles. Its probably just a firmware update away from resolving most of the issues, I had with it. Well 3D, printing friends thats about all the time we have for this episode. And now that were at the end, lets go print. Something cool: Hey real, quick before you go. I wanted to say thanks for being one of the Super Awesome People who sticks around all the way to the end and thanks for all the likes comments and shares. And EXPECIALLY big thanks to those who directly support what I do. Youre. All wonderful for doing that, and I really appreciate it. If you liked this episode, a thumbs up would be great. And if youd like to help support the channel check the description for ways you can do exactly that. And hey.. If you havent already subscribed, please do Its absolutely free and its an excellent way to help keep me making these videos for you.. Well, thats it for this one Thanks again and Ill.