I'Ve been working on project overkill here is my new build from way back in the day. This is more like a repurposed build it's, a brand new build all across the table, and I just tested this out on the rocks the other day. We'Ll talk about articulation more in a moment, but one of the things and one of the reasons why I'm actually rebuilding this truck is because I'm using it in this year's tough truck competition for 110 scale trucks. Now, viewers of my show know what a TTC is and if you don't well, I filmed over 10 years of TTC footage on my show so or on my channel, so please feel free to go ahead and check it out. This is a center beam, a top truck or a tough truck competition. This Center beam was actually right here up front, and I thought you know that's, where it's gon na stay, except I needed the center hole. Why would I need that? Well, a lot of people were kind of saying: they're upset that I went with the axle mounted servo on my f9 curry portal axles and that's cool. I totally get it, but they didn't know that. Yes, for a tough truck competition, you should definitely have a winch. Now this winch has been out for quite some time. This is a beautiful winch. You can get from RC. Four wheel drive be prepared to spend upwards of 100 at the time of this filming, and I thought you know I could put this under here, but then I kind of have a bump zone right, like I'm, always gon na have a bump zone there, and so This really wasn't the winch.

For me, I went onto RPP site and I saw and I've always heard about the reefs RC servo winch, and this is the 422 HD v2 now you're reading this right. If you've never seen one of these before there's many ways to make a servo into a winch servo where it just keeps spinning, but you can check out all the specs on the back here. Quite a bit of Awesomeness it's, waterproof it's got tons of torque at seven point four volts and it's very speedy. So I don't mind that at all – and I don't mind giving this a try, but the issue was was that if I was having overkill like this and kind of figuring out where the body was about to sit, which I have been doing for quite some time Now that way, I don't really want an extra bumper on here to hang me up at the TTC or at a competition cuz, you know, I've got to compete in Hill, Climb, I've got to compete, and if we do a tug of war, if we do a Tank trap, the frame twist or the mud bog all those different events you're not allowed to change anything on your vehicle unless you break and only then you can change for the same piece. So, instead of having this forward mounted winch, I thought to myself. You know I'd get one of these winches and mount it back in the frame a little bit, because I want to have a battery up here right.

This is exactly where I want my battery trade to go, so I got to be very careful in where I position it and I thought to myself. How am I gon na do that and reefs are see, actually makes different mounts for this servo you'll see it's a little bit off center. So if I look at this here, how that actually would line up on the frame? These are the frame bolts on the side I had to cut this down. If reefs are see, I don't know them, but if they're watching this right now they're cringing right now, because I had to take off all of this extra aluminum, it must have been out to here at least another quarter, inch on either side to fit into a Red cat gen8 truck now this is a GCM chassis, which is a very, very skinny, it's, very narrow. That way, which gives me a lot of room not to get hung up when I'm, like traveling around, but at the same time there was no way I was gon na fit it in there without grinding it down. So what I've done is I've made a hole in the front for the servo cable to go through or the winch cable, and what I'm gon na do is actually figure out a way to mount this as far back as possible. So I can still get my battery in there and, at the same time, still have a servo mounted up so it's nice and easy and can pull me out of some very tough spots, especially in the mud bog or in the frame twister.

Where you need the additional help, so let's go ahead and have a look at what's in the box. This is also quite an expensive servo, but you guys can check out RPP. If you want to go there and have a look at how much they are. Some people will know already, but I already get nailed for bragging in my stem I in my own show I try to give people information. Then some bitches want to say I'm bragging about it. Well, there it is for 22 HD that's simply going to set up. Look at this here is the spool that goes on the actual splines of the of the servo right there, so this is actually going to go right in the middle and then generally it's gon na get screwed on, and just a lag of that now. This servo already comes with a servo cable and the winch controller is already built into the servo, so that is very helpful. I'Ve never had one of those before so with the front cross. Brace in this is mounted. I actually ended up taking the servo back off. Spooling the wire through there and putting it through just so it could be in the ready position and grinding all this down. I get just such a snug super fit right in there. Look at that. I can slide that right in, but unfortunately, the holes aren't going to line up. So I am gon na – have to compromise this a little bit or possibly just drill another hole to rethread the screw in the side of the reefs RC mount and I'm gon na.

Take the wire and I'm gon na thread it through to the front of the truck right out the front of the frame that way. It'S, basically its own fairly right here and I don't have any interruption with the battery or with the frame or cable touching. The steering servo nothing off to the side, even though this comes with a red hook. This is not the red hook that it comes with. This is actually the hook off of the original overkill beautiful and now that it's all mounted and secured, I can undo the lead. This is for the receiver I'm gon na want to set this up to a programmable or a three position switch, so we'd have forward. Stop and then reverse stop in the middle again. Yeah and let's just do a test fit of the battery. Well, I guess it would be switched around this way so that I'll build up the front a little bit. So I don't have that issue, because what I did was I put another crossmember in here crossbeam it could be flat. I could just order a flat one or change one around. I guess I could use this in the back of the vehicle as well, but regardless I'll switch that around this fits perfectly right to the front. So I designed my truck to actually have this heavy five thousand milliamp 3s lipo hard case on the front. So my suspension on the front has a little bit of suspension, pushback or resistance, as you'd say on the back it's, basically completely in a droop setup, which means there's very light Springs in here with a very small amount of oil you'll see it definitely has some Rebound but it doesn't have any issue pushing through the the shock fluid right.

Look at that people in my last test. Video are like oh look so stiff. I don't know why it's not articulating and well part of it was is because I was using a four thousand milliamp soft packed battery up here, right as I designed it for the heavy one. But the other thing is: is I learned early in the game, especially a crawler Ted's garage right, crawler Ted? We did all the rock crawling back in the day when I first started in 2008 2009 and one of the things we learned is: yes, you can get a crawler to articulate 90 degrees, but in a competition that's actually going to hurt you because the reason is, Is if your front suspension flexes way too much when you go over a hole, your whole tire, if you got a weighted tire and a bad suspension, it's gon na flip and roll you over? Instead, when I go crawling, I want my back to articulate as much as possible. I want to have some give on the front right here, but I also want the ability to float my tire over a gap right over a gap instead of having it fall into the gap and that's one of the most important things and misunderstood things about suspension. In the RC world right, you don't need it to go to 90 degrees. So, while I wait for my battery to charge crazy Joe was over on the weekend to do some loading Kings here and what he had said to me was, he never did show us when, because I did update, if you guys, missed the first trial video, where I was basically testing this on the rocks for geometry and belly clearance.

I actually had mentioned to people that I had dropped down this engine and transmission more than three quarters of an inch. In fact that was the original set of holes right there, and then I drilled it all the way down here and I do have new mounting plates on the way I had to change my geometry that's pretty ugly now, but these are removable bottom plates. These just cinch on with two little screws here and here, and so I was messing around giving myself lots of different options here, but really what I was able to do was lower down that motor and transmission. Now look underneath. He said. I never showed you guys how I actually had mounted it up, but if you have a look at that metal, I did bend it into a pie shape. I kind of went through this whole thing that transmission is actually mounted to the side of the frame. You'Ll notice that the other side of the transmission kind of butts up against the frame – and this allowed me to actually drop it down three quarters of an inch look at that below the shock towers. My friends now it may look a little dirty and untidy to you with the wires. I know all the OCD people right now are freaking out, but this receiver is actually antenna less so what's going to end up happening is when I finally get my body mounts and everything done I'm going to cut this zip tie and I'm actually going to mount.

This to the roof, so when I go underwater I have my receiver up as high as possible and if I'm in mudding I don't really have to worry too much until I go under the water, so we'll turn it on you'll also notice. Now that the winch is here, I actually set this up on my fly sky. This is an nb4 Noble. This actually has a little dial right here, which I set up to be a three position switch, so I push it forward. The winch comes out. I go to the middle, it stops and then backwards, stop and then forwards. So it comes out at a nice speed actually and then retracts perfect, just like that. So really people are probably wondering about my body. How am I going to make this work now? I can either make it come straight out from the bottom of the body once I mount it up or I can take this fairlead make the bumper much stronger, put like metal on the front and back and then put a fairlead in there. So we could have it. You know, if I'm having to pull sideways, left or right, it's, not really kind of causing damage to the seven foot braided cable, which I don't really think it would anyway, but it's gon na go like that. You guys are listening to the fan on my ESC that's, pretty typical. The ax system, right here, especially with a big 30 300 kV motor that's gon na, be wanting to have the fan on, but for competition I'd be undoing that so in the back of the studio here, I just set up a few chairs at the same height With a nail in the top of this board, this is about three and three and a half feet to the ground.

Let'S go ahead and hook the winch up to the top of that nail and right. There now I've never used a servo winch before, but I think this is a great opportunity forward. Does it pull the truck up? How much strength will it have look at this no B EC required my friends testing that servo motor there? It is and look at that I stopped it it's, not even the weight of the vehicle, even though it's keeping it swinging like a pendulum is not making that servo lose its grip at all. So that's great big win right there. As long as I can pull myself around, that is all that matters back down. We go so cool, reversing and then back down now this is the last thing I'll film today. So we'll leave you with this, but someone had said to me in full droop the way my suspension links were set up, that it was going to cause a lot of hopping and you know basically a lot of jitters. So let's go ahead and test that, because this is in full droop position right now: full extension on the shocks, there's, a nice, slow, crawl, no hopping whatsoever, and there it is my friends. Thank you so much for joining me here today. Hopefully, you've been inspired to have fun with RC. If you don't have one maybe you're there and you want to build one, maybe you're just looking for some information, but regardless we've got you here today.

My friends, thank you for joining us. I hope you've enjoyed the show. Please leave my project a like click or even a comment that would be even cooler cuz. I love hearing from all the viewers that enjoy the show thanks a lot. My friends we'll see in the next episode now get outside and have fun with RC.