This is the deadcat apex hd. This is like the latest and greatest mr steel custom quad. That has come out in 2022 and im going to talk a little bit about it and then were going to build one. So this is the apex dead cat. As you can see, heres the standard apex – and here is the dead cat. You can see. The geometry is slightly different, but normally with dead cat frames, you push the wa the arms wider in the front so that it gets more prop out of shot for your fpv camera or even the hd camera. If you want to run lower uh lower angles, because if you obviously fly like this and youre tilted, really crazy, youre not really going to have props in the shot. But as soon as you start going a little bit slower and having the camera neutral, there can be props in shot on a frame like this, because they stick so far forward and thats, really the the the original application for a dead cat. However, my application was for live streaming um, especially with dji, because you can actually run out of this out of the goggles into the smart controller. And then you can run hdmi out of that and have it direct, live stream and thats a great application to be used for the dji fpv system, and this frame is built around that. So theres no props and shot for this camera, which is the one that it would actually be live streaming out of, so its a really high quality frame, as you can expect from impulse rc, it has all interchangeable parts from the other apexes.

So if you break an arm in the front its a five inch arm braking arm in the back its a six inch arm, the only things that have changed on this are the key in the center and the top the bottom two lower plates, because obviously the Geometry has changed and we need to change those, but all the other parts are interchangeable with the other apex, including the top plate. The camera plates are slightly different which well get to, but you could technically use the same camera plates if you wanted now. The other things that it comes with ill go through when were actually building it brand new, but this is ultimately what its going to look like its specifically designed to be used with dji fpv and either a cad x, or in this particular case it has an Air unit in it – and you know everything else – is going to be kind of tailored towards what i use, which would be like fat, tech, electronics, mr steel motors tbs, if youre running a video transmitter or camera like tbs camera run, cam, camera or tbs video transmitter Run cam camera but in this case, were running dji, so its pretty much just mr steel ethics motors impulse, rc frame, dji, electronics and fet tec, flight controller and esc and then were running crossfire and ill get to that when we talk about uh. This frame, in particular, i run crossfire with all of my hd setups, and the reason i do that is because i dont typically fly freestyle with hd.

I do that with analog still so when im flying far away, and i want really good video from my hd system. I just dont want to worry about my radio link, so i just go ahead and run a crossfire and ive had no issues with it and i just pair those two together so crossfire and hd or dji, and then analog and tracer. And the reasoning for that is just lower, lower latency and more consistent latency with analog so yeah for freestyle still running the standard apex, mr steele edition, which unfortunately isnt available and ill talk about that more in a later video but yeah. This build. This video is specifically for the dead cat apex, so lets go ahead and get right into building it. So, as you will see on the table right here, heres pretty much everything that you would get if you purchased all the things that i would recommend for a dead cat apex and that would include the dead cut apex. Mr seal edition itself, that comes with the brown, uh brown or coyote brown plastics. It also comes with black plastics for the front lip the under the arm skids and the rear crossfire mount. It also comes with two 3d printed pieces. This is for a gopro with a 2.5 mil screw. Also, eight eight millimeter um hex key right here. This is a pretty cool piece. Instead of having that stupid twist thing on the side that always gets in the way, and then this mount right here which is going to work with the vista because thats, ultimately, what i kind of designed this frame around, because the vista at the time was success, Compatible and im running this all on 6s.

As far as electronics, i am going to be running a fettech 45 amp esc and, as far as the flight controller will be running a uh, a g4 flight controller from fet tec as well wow. I just like bent my fingernail backwards, trying to get that open, so yeah ill open these up, so fat tech, g4 and uh yeah that 45 amp fat tech esc were going to be running. Like i said earlier, a crossfire receiver on this particular one. It will be a nano crossfire, because i dont need diversity. Im just gon na go ahead and run a single antenna, immortal t nano crossfire and then we will for motors will be running mr steel stouts in white, so these are 1750 kv, 2306 um motors – and these are the motors that i run on my analog and Hd setups and well probably run these with the taller pants which ill talk about when we start putting those on. As far as the video system were gon na be running a vista pro, which is the 120 fps camera, which is what i recommend. If youre going to be flying these, i dont think 60fps. Camera is good enough. I think 120fps is the bare minimum and then the cad x vista is pretty much the smaller form factor that takes 6s. I think some of the new air units do success as well, but the smaller form factor i do enjoy, and i dont necessarily ever record on the drone itself.

So i dont really need the air unit for anything. If you want to go crazy like and have no issues whatsoever and youre, just gung ho going with air unit like i will be for certain builds um, then you know you can go with the air unit, but it fits in both this comes with a vista Or it doesnt come with it, but thats what i recommend, and also with the dead cat. This is one of the only frames out there that does this currently and it is an isolate. It comes with an isolation pad that completely isolates all the electronics from the video system from the carbon fiber, because carbon fiber is conductive and if you were to have a short and this outside of the vista is obviously a ground, then it will possibly kill your Video system as well, so this kind of protects you and also staves off, maybe some video interference if there were any or any kind of vibrations or electromagnetic interference or electronic interferences coming through the carbon fiber like i said because it is conductive, it also comes with A couple extra things that were not going to be using like this rubber uh battery pad and then also this um, this velcro battery pad, which is the one that i will be using and a couple battery straps and files and foam. If you want to go super lightweight and you dont want to run the feet, but ive kind of just already said that i can accept the extra weight and the feet will be what i use as far as straps were just using the ethics power straps.

I always run a 230 mil and a 250 mil one in the front, one in the back, the 230 in the rear and the 250 in the front, specifically so that i can wrap down the power cable um. The power cable does come with the with the frame, so you dont have to worry about purchasing an xd60 or anything so its pretty much like turnkey. As far as the frame comes you dont have to worry about much now. I said that the camera plates were different earlier, the camera plates are slightly different and they come with than the traditional apex camera plates. They come with these little 3d printed pieces that go inside these camera plates and isolate the camera from the carbon fiber, which is like, i said when you isolate the vista unit. You need to isolate the camera too, because they are all connected under one roof, so that is what these camera plates are designed for, and it also comes with the screws that you would need to make that happen. So lets go ahead and just open this stuff up and the mr steel one also comes with aluminum hardware. So this is a lot lighter than the steel hardware that comes with the standard frame, and i guess to differentiate between the mr steel frame and the regular frame. The mr steel frame comes with lightweight hardware. It comes with these two 3d printed things, and it comes with the brown, the brown uh stuff here and yeah.

I mean i specifically asked for this frame. So, although there is another frame like as far as the requests for this design, the dead cat layout and the apex, it was like this is what i asked sean at impulse rc at four, because i wanted something that didnt have props and shot so regardless. If you purchase the mr steel one, it is kind of technically still the mr steel one. It just doesnt come with all the accessories that you see here and its not that much more expensive either i mean were not talking. Electronics, like that were in the old one that i think people overlooked. This is just little hardware. Not actual electronic hardware also comes with these, which go over the arms and protect these are injection molded they fit over the arms and protect your motor wires. All right. So lets go ahead and get started with the build first of all were going to need to assemble the frame and youll notice that the arms have these little holes in them and they have no holes on the other side. And then you also have two five inch arms and two six inch. Arms yeah make sure that the hole goes under the motor. The idea behind this hole is that its not a full all the way through hole, because then you get protection for your bearings but its also a hole there, so that in case, your set screw that goes in the bottom of the motor sticks out a little Bit which it does on my motor in particular that it sits in that hole and it doesnt actually butt up against the frame like this and it wouldnt see down so yeah always make sure you have the hole in the right place and um yeah.

I said earlier that this was a frame specifically that were gon na, be building this frame for someone special, i dont even know i dont, like name dropping, but i think the person would be excited to know that the frame that were putting on this video is Theirs, this is for mick schumacher, so many of you may know his father, and you probably know him now because hes in formula one but uh, yeah mick schumacher total shout out to him for repping ethics gear and just liking what we do here and liking what I do on the internet, i guess let me just dump this all the way out and uh so yeah. He hit me up, he didnt ask for a quad or anything. He just had some ethics gear and was asking me questions and i said hey. Why dont? I just freaking build you a dead cat apex because he was going to buy one anyways, and i said you know what screw it lets put it together for you, so that you can have the perfect experience. Why not now theres a couple different ways to do this? I kind of do it differently every time and i dont i dont, know why, but to sync these: you need to put these um these press nuts inside the arms. I know its kind of a pain in the butt that it doesnt come that way already, but yeah its unfortunate, but the little things that we have to put up with to do it take you know to get nice things.

I guess so. I use a steel screw for this because if you use an aluminum screw, you have the chance of stripping it out and what i did is i took one of the screws out of the kit. This is a two mil screw and i put it on one of these little washers. These are really just the load distribution piece that comes in the kit. I put the press nut inside the arm and then screw this in here as quick as i can try to keep pressure with your hand when youre tightening on the wrench, because, obviously you can strip out the screw that youre doing this with. I think i would prefer to do it with a 2.5 mil, but i just didnt see one off the top of my head, so were going were going in kind of hardcore, with the with the riskier way. With the two mil i ended up, switching and using a 2.5 mil screw. There is one in here so just find a 2.5. I dont recommend the two, because obviously it can strip out ill just go ahead and admit its. What happened to me. It hasnt happened to me in a long time, so i hadnt had it happen, but yeah use the 2.5 mil. I put all the press nuts in the arms and then were gon na, have to put press nuts in this plate, which is the upper bottom plate. So what you got to notice is there is theyre, not identical.

So dont put the press nuts in on the wrong side. This side has some tapered holes. Cut out were going to put the press nuts on the opposite side of the tapered holes and thatll make sense more here in a minute when we start building the uh when we start building everything so same thing, i used one of these little flared nuggets and A 2.5 mil uh 2.5 mil bolt and a nice 2.5 driver and yep sink those down to where theyre flush with the carbon again make sure you do it on the right side. You dont want to do it on the opposite side, where there, where the flare is because then it wont, make sense when you build it or it will but youll be like wow. I got to pull those out and put them on the right side because theyre on the wrong side, its probably better to do this with like a a t driver just because you have more leverage. But i got them strong, climbing hands so im, okay and make sure you actually put it in the right hole too ive gotten to the point where sometimes i put in the wrong hole. Oh yeah, you put it in the wrong hole here and then you go to put it together and it doesnt fit right. Okay, so now weve got all the press nuts in theyre in the arms theyre in this uh bottom plate. Now what we want to do is we want to get these four little aluminum screws, theyre, actually kind of tapered.

You can see them here so theyre, for these are steel. Actually, so were gon na use the aluminum ones that come with the mr steel kit. I could tell they were steel because they were heavy, so these are the aluminum ones and you dont need the tall ones in this particular case, for the build that were doing and then youre also going to use these four black aluminum beware: there are nylon nuts In here too, that you dont want to use, you want to use the aluminum ones, with the lock nut or with the the uh. The nylon in them so were gon na find the fourth one of these. If it stops eluding us there, it is okay, so were gon na put these here, and this is where i end up messing up generally, you got ta make sure you put them in the outside holes. Those are the 32×32 and what were gon na do is just screw on this, and this is whats gon na hold our flight controller, so just kind of screw that on make sure youre again on the outside holes. I have done this many times where i put it in one of the closer more narrow 20 by 20 holes, and then it doesnt work. Obviously so, and then, if you put it all together and you have it screwed into the 20 by 20, then youre really screwed, because you got to take it apart to get to it, thats why these things are tapered, so that when you build it, the arms Actually sit flush against this bottom plate right here and you dont have anything poking out so again make sure theyre all in the outer holes were going to take our 2.

5 or sorry, our two mil uh guy right here and then i have a t, nut driver Or actually a 5.5 mil here im going to flop this around get this and you remember everything aluminum you dont want to go crazy, tight. I dont know how often ive seen people see. Oh, these aluminum screws are made of cheese, and sometimes there are cheesy aluminum screws, but in the impulse rc world we they – we use ones from fastener express actually built here in california, and they are really good quality aluminum and they should not feel like cheese again. But it is a two mil aluminum uh allen key. So if you pull hard enough or twist hard enough, you can strip it out. So you know i get it tight and then just give it one little quarter twist and if youre real anal, you can go back and check, make sure theyre all tight and again check and make sure you have them in the right place. Because if you do this wrong, youre going to have to take it apart, so there we go, weve got our bottom top plate set up. We have our press nuts on the top here and we have this coming out. I know it kind of looks weird, but it will make sense here in a second when we start building it. Now we have this, which is going to be the lower bottom plate, its actually going to sit like this, and then the arms are going to kind of sandwich between and how this sets up is you have five five inch arms in the front? Sorry, you have two five inch arms in the front.

You have two six inch arms in the back and how i like to do this. Is you have these shoulder bolts right here? These bolts are actually smooth in the middle and theyre threaded on the end and what the shoulder bolt does is it actually allows you to get a tighter fit than if you had threads going up and down the entire frame so or the entire bolt itself? So again, its a little bit tighter tolerances makes the stand. The frame stiffer and at the end of the day, gives you a more durable and better flying aircraft, because the stiffer the frame, usually the better it flies now. What were going to do? This is pretty much universal top and bottom. There is a milling side and you can kind of tell the difference, but honestly it doesnt matter. You can do this either way you want im going to put in one of those shoulder bolts with one of these little load: distributors. Those are those black cones that come in the box im going to put one of those in there and then im going to take a five inch arm and again, you can just put them on top of each other to figure out if you dont know which One is which and were going to run that through, but were also gon na, make sure that uh. How does this work? It goes like this yeah theres, multiple ways to do this.

I forget. I think this is probably not the most ideal way. These bolts, these 2.5 mils, were going to run in the middle, and this may be the better way to do it. You may not use the shoulder bolt initially, but i dont run these load distributors in the middle. For some reason i just never have uh. You can, if you want im not going to, but were just going to kind of go around the edge here and im going to put in a couple arms im, putting the six inch arms in the back and the shoulder bolt thing like i said you will Be putting those in so it may not be advantageous to have that in at the moment. But again i havent built one of these in a moment, so im going to just go with the flow, so i have again my five inch arms in the front. Six inch arms in the back its looking kind of floppy at the moment, but itll make more sense here in a second, so were going to get. Those kind of tight were going to get these arms all nice and lined up whats going on here and then were gon na. Take our key and were gon na slip. The key in there i dont even know yeah there we go so the key sits like this. Now this is the front of the quad and the five inch arms are here and the key sits with this kind of theres a taller point in the key.

Its not a symmetrical key theres, a taller point. It kind of looks like a crown. The top of the crown goes towards the front of the quad and were going to take our other six inch arm. Stick it in there and then put in our last little um center bolt that i used to tighten everything. Where did it go its hiding got our shoulder bolts here, oh wow! There we go so we got an extra, so this is thats why the loctite is on these, so were slipping that in there and were going to just kind of give it a little. I know it went, it went dead and the key probably fell out. Nope were good, okay, so keys still there uh. What im going to do now is im going to slip in some shoulder bolts, theres, probably a better way to do this im, not a master. I dont build these every single day, so take what you will. Obviously this is my frame. I should probably know how to build these things the best, but i just dont build new quads that often – and i just kind of get by with with what i, what i do. I dont go out of my way to make the perfect build video im just trying to stuff these things together. So now we have all of our bolts in our key is still in place, and this is pretty much what its going to look like, and i am going to actually uh start tightening a little bit of the center bolts.

Now not like crazy. Just get them a little tighter so that theyre snug and do like a star pattern, get them snug. I can feel its less floppy and now we are ready to put our top plate of our bottom section on so thats what it looks like six inch arms in the rear, five inch arms in the front with the key in there like that, and now we Have this and if we did it correctly, it sits like right there and it looks and its going to sit flush, because again, this is flush right here. So lets flip this over and screw these in all right. I got all those in there im, not tightening them like crazy im, just getting them kind of snug, all right so theres, our bottom part of the frame and what im going to do is im just going to tighten from the middle out. So i did that. I did the corner, i did this corner, then i did this corner im gon na. Do this corner this corner that corner im not going crazy, tight im just going snug all right! Now we got our bottom half built and at this point, im just going to go ahead and say that we could start putting electronics on and building everything before we put our standoffs on just because it makes life easier when its like this flat. So the next thing im going to do, i buy these on amazon ill, put a link in the description below there are little gummies that go underneath the esc, and all i do is i just slip one of those over this little center section Music and slip.

Those guys over there – and all this does is isolate the esc from the frame, nothing crazy, but its going to give you a little bit of added protection. So this is our fat, tech, f or esc. Im going to pull the quality control sticker off and just preemptively stick it on the bottom in the middle, because i know that its going to be good. Now what we can do is we can turn on our soldering iron and get this all prepped up. So im going to put our uh frame aside for a second were going to get. Our esc actually use a piece of wood, its going to get our esc kind of prepped over here and im going to start flowing some solder on here. I know this looks a little haphazard and it kind of is because thats just how i am i work very loosely. Sometimes all right, so ive got my iron at 800 degrees, 830 degrees celsius, which is pretty hot, but i move really quick. So im not too worried about it. What im gon na do is im just gon na pre, tin, all of our motor connections and what im doing is im feeding solder in and again you see im im moving pretty quick here. If i stay too long and in one place it can be bad, so you want your iron hot enough to where it melts the solder very quickly, but you dont want it.

You dont want to hold it in the same place for too long. Otherwise, you can potentially melt other components off as far as our power leads. Im gon na run im just gon na flow on top of there. That was our negative lead and then our positively. This is flux core solder. So there is some flux in there. I know a lot of people are going to be. Oh, you got to use flux. Well, i do just not in this instance, so i gave it a little second to cool so that i could put a little bit thicker of a blob on there because thats, where our xt60 is gon na go and so that it doesnt fall all through the Holes im gon na flip it over im actually going to solder the back side too, because i like it to cover the whole thing. I dont know why ive always done that its always a pain in the butt, but i like it to cover all the gold or copper or whatever color. You want to call that and then also depending on where were going to put our um. Our capacitor on this setup, uh were probably going to want to um, probably want to solder a couple of these auxiliary pads, but at the moment im going to leave them. Unsoldered because i dont know exactly what im going to do yet now this we got to make sure that this sits on the frame and if you notice its a little tight and since were running these little guys under here, we want it to not be tight.

So what im going to do is these these tiny little holes in here im going to take a file that comes with the kit, its a little cylindrical rat tail style file, a lot of rhyming and im going to file out all of these little uh. These little circles so im going to file towards the inside and try not to slip out and damage your fets, its still a little hot for me going hard on the soldering a second ago, so bear with me. The last thing you want to do is slip out of the theres a lot of innuendo going on on this video and dont solder. It dont file it too far to where it hits your fat either. So all were trying to do is get rid of those three little bumps. You should kind of feel it yep there we go and again its not on the inside and outside its just the inside, which is the crucial one, because if you file it too far, you can actually hit the fet, and that would be a bad day. So ive always done this on my escs and its added a little bit of extra protection so again thats what its going to look like when its done you filed out the center there and now when we put it on the frame it sits on there loose And it actually has a little bit of cushion, so these are the little things that a lot of people dont do, and it makes a big difference when you uh, when you do these things.

So the next thing im going to do is im actually going to clean these uh im gon na clean this stuff. Oh god, i just dumped a lot of rubbing alcohol on here. Its fine rubbing. Alcohol is thats a lot so yeah. This is what im gon na do: im gon na clean the esc. I dont do this on everything, but because its going to someone – and i just want to make sure everythings perfect ill – just clean that, like that with some rubbing alcohol, i use 91 isopropyl. But you can use 80 or whatever you want to use and all im doing is its getting rid of all that excess rosin. That is on or flux, depending on what you want to call it and its also getting all the little solder balls. If there were any off the board itself so again, isopropyl alcohol is going to evaporate very quickly, although i used quite a bit of it, so it might take more than a time, but i can just dab it off with a with a nice little shop. Towel all right, so once weve done that now im going to solder on our xt60 now i dont exactly know how long we need the xt60. All i know is that we want the xd60 in this particular case. I have it coming out in the front. We could technically have it come out in the back, which i think im going to do, because i dont like it coming out in the front it just doesnt.

Really it dont work, they dont work man i like it coming out in the back, so it also keeps our orientation simple. So lets just go ahead and say that were going to have it come out in the back and if were having to come out in the back, and we set this esc on here. We have it set up like this to where this plug is down uh. Basically, all were going to be doing is were going to have our plug come out about right here. So were going to cut off about that, much which leaves us. Let me get some measuring. Let me just get a measuring device, so you guys know how much it is. So i dont get any any complaints of someone saying. Oh i cut off 37 millimeters and you said to cut off 22 and its not long enough and now were screwed. You can always have too much, so our thing is actually going to be 50. Millimeters lets just go 55 to say that we have a little bit of room, so im gon na cut that off heres. Our thing were about 55 mil. What im going to do is im actually going to cut the white the red one about five mil shorter and youll, see why, in a second, so im going to strip both these and i dont – want to strip them too long, so that i dont have to Worry with this big, this big thing now, i know someones gon na complain that they dont have one of these things, and i dont blame you because i love it but its the solder buddy and it works real well, and it was a professor of mine in Colleges – and he like made this thing and it works really well and now ive just lost my solder, so im just going to get some more wow whats happening over here.

Why am i stuck gim me gim me gim me gim me gim me gim me gim me, okay, so im just gon na feed it in and again you got ta feed the solder in ive done a video on this before how to solder – and i was Told solder, i was told by all the people on the internet how i was so wrong and i dont see their videos about how to solder. Maybe there are other peoples – videos out there that complained on my video, but my drones fly. Okay, im sure there are better ways to do things as there are with anything in life, so yeah got some just filling in these guys. Tinning them is what this is called. So you put solder on both ends of the joint that youre trying to connect, and i always like to flick off the rest, the excess solder. This is going to be pretty hot now, because, obviously, i was using a lot of temperature, so always wet your tip. Dude i cant get away from the innuendos in this particular video. So what im going to do now is im going to im gon na heat up the positive side and then im going to place the positive side down and just kind of flow it in. You can wiggle it a little bit. It helps the flow. I think man over knows about the flow, maybe a little bit, probably not and then were gon na go in here.

Im sorry, this is probably like you cant see, but wiggle wiggle hold, and then you end up with something like this and the reason i cut the red one shorter is because the short the red one comes out. I put it at a like a 45 degree angle so that when it comes out the side, its less likely to if youre pulling it real hard – and you dont want it to go that far because then it overlapped. So i run it like a 45. You want to make sure theyre not touching in the middle which it looks like were not, but just to be safe, ill just run this one more time. Okay, were good. Im gon na push this forward. I get real anal about these connections. Sometimes i want them to look to look the part. Okay. There we go. I also twist it like this, so that the negative side of this connector is in the front. I dont know why ive just always done that, and it works really well for me. So again, this is how your esc is going to look, were going to go ahead and stick our esc on here like this, and next were going to take these guys, which are little rubber standoffs with threaded metal pieces in them and were going to twist. These guys on here you dont, have to put all four of them on if you dont want, but im just going to go ahead and do it because i like a challenge and what im going to do now is just put them tight.

And then, once you get them tight a little bit of like a quarter turn what that does. Is it squishes that little donut down there just go back around and make sure youre tight on? There puts a little pressure on the donut, but it also isolates. So you have a little bit of strain. Relief. Next were going to put the motors on. So you open up the mr steel v4 motors and you get these two different pants here. We always try to go with biodegradable foxes, so thats why our boxes are brown. This year, instead of green trying to be a little less environmentally draining in the box, you get this instead of plastic, theres no plastic in the box, but you get these two plastic pieces. One of them is a lower. We call the low pants and then the high pants. Now what this does is these motors come with no pants? If you dont want anything on there, you can run it like that. No harm, no foul! If you want a little bit of protection from like mud or something youre more than welcome to use that one thats, the one that i generally use, if youre wanting a lot of protection, then you can run these im going to run these for mick. Here i dont know in case hes going hard, so that is what its going to look like and what it does is just offers a little bit more protection for the motor and its also plastic and interchangeable.

You cannot switch it at any time. You will have to desolder the motor if you do want to switch it, but you couldnt easily switch it so im going to put the motors on im just going to get the pants ready and were going to use the these plastic guys right here and when We use these guys were definitely going to want to use steel screws to hold the motors on and we just go around and find. There are some like six. I think theyre eight mil eight mil bolts, theres, some that are shorter than others and make sure you get the longer ones um, but i dont think there are two ones that are too long yeah. So what you want is you want about that? Much poke through and what thats going to do is its going to hold our motors on im going to run three on each motor, and these are 16 by 16 standoff or 16 by 16 motors. Instead of the previous generation versions, were uh or 19 by 19.. So what im going to do is im going to push the screw right here into the center hole. Theres two holes here, theyre all cut theres 19 by 19 and 16 by 16, because back in the day they were 19 by 19 on this side and 16 by 16 on the other, and you can obviously put the motors on any different way. Some motors were set up one way, some others with the other.

These are all 16 by 16.. So what were going to do is were going to screw. One of them in were not going to go. Tight were just going to kind of get it in. There were gon na take another guy in the opposite corner and were gon na slip him in try to find that screw line that up get that going. Weve got two in there now and im gon na run that third one on the outside and yeah. So now weve got three screws in this motor motor still spins. We go again hand tight. We are kind of tensioning on these with plastic, because we have this plastic piece down here. So again, you dont want to go super tight, but that is the word on the street right. There weve got that motor on were gon na, go ahead and put the other other three on which i could count and then um and then well solder them up. So let me grab these guys all these longer screws. There should be enough uh of these long screws in here for you to put four in each. So if you wanted to run all four you youre more than welcome to do that, i just have always ran three and never had any issues so well. I actually ran up two, so its just more recently ive started running three, because if a motor falls off mid flight or if you crash and a motor falls off its never a good day, so i just try to be a little bit more diligent Applause about Having my stuff on there, so let me get all this out of your way.

Those are again all recyclable stuff here: try not to create too much extra waste so again running the tall bells on these. Are the tall bell protectors on these dont? Forget your plastics. Stick your stick, your screws in and i like to a little lopsided. Sometimes i like to find that inner one usually get in there bro. Why? But why and then again to make this easier make sure you pull the pull the bolts into the 16 mil holes, because, if youre trying to screw it in and youre stuck on that 19 mil outer ledge, then youre gon na be basically like screwing into the Motor and not actually getting the thread youre just kind of screwing into the paint on the bottom thats not really going to do anything but aesthetically. If you ever took the motor off youd notice that there was a little bit of a a mark like right here, where you were trying to screw into something that wasnt a hole so just be aware of that: hey, hey whats, going on! Oh theres, a theres! A screw in the way i was like: why is it not going here? We go all right, lets slip this in here again go with that lower one so that you can see pull down and in on that upper one. So it goes into the 16 mil hole, kind of seeded it it just seated a little bit better than it was so and again youre tightening a steel screw into an aluminum motor.

So dont go super tight, just kind of go tight until it stops and then maybe a little bit quarter turn after that make sure your motors still spin, which that should never be a problem. But if it is contact your local dealer im kidding, i dont know you shouldnt have a problem like that youre not going to have motors that just dont spin out of the box. I mean you might at some point in life, but if you do it, shouldnt be our murders and if it is, we will fix you up real fast. So dont worry im just going to try to keep it consistent and go on the outside because with my three screws, so it looks symmetrical. Oh no, oh wow, im not even using not even screwing the screw, thats, probably why it wasnt working come on. Sometimes it helps to reverse spin the thread in reverse so that you get it to seat, and so then spinning counterclockwise initially to get it to see in the thread and then once i feel it kind of click in and im twisting it clockwise. It helps sometimes all right, so weve got all of our motors on thats what it looks like from the bottom, with all the motors on all right again, im only running three screws on each motor. Here it is on top with our motor protectors. You can see that this would actually help a good deal if youre crashing into stuff and again this is really nice injection, molded plastic, so youre not really going to have to worry about it breaking too much.

Obviously, certain temperature level, if you get like really cold temperatures, then youre going to have to worry about things breaking, but it shouldnt be a problem in anything above a bike, 70 or sorry. Anything above 50 degrees, fahrenheit or i dont know what that is. Like eight. No, its less than that its like 15 degrees celsius. So what im going to do now is im actually going to put these motor wire protectors over the top of the motor wires so im putting the motor protection over these come with the kit. You slip it over. I use black electrical tape. I just make sure the motors are all flush inside there. I run two wraps of electrical tape around snip it on the bottom and youre done so lets put those four on these originally were made for the inch apex, so they look like they work perfectly on the 5 inch arms and then they look a little weird On the 6 inch arms, but it still serves the same purpose. It protects the motor wires from the prop if you were to have a bent prop and crash and its like, bending down trying to touch your motor wires. So we go on here and i like to make sure its straight. I like to make sure all the motors are straight. Our motor wires are straight sorry, two loops, and then we have one more thats missing. Where are you hiding? Why why you do this? Its always hiding theres, always something hiding when youre trying to do a build video.

What am i am, i blind. Am i missing something here. I dont know whats going on. Okay, where did it go? Is it gone? Am i missing one? I broke it. Always always all right lets put this last one on making my life harder. Why come on? Thank you, okay, so we got all of our motor wires strapped down. What im going to do now is im going to cut the wires to length, so how i do that is i just grab them. I kind of put them up to where i think theyre going to go. I give a little bit of extra room and then i cut the excess off so take my pair of side cutters. Here i go and i say all right: those are going to go there i come in here i cut and then im left with this and theres a little bit of excess, like i said on the six inch arms its a little longer, so you just want To make sure youve got enough and were just cutting off excess fat here, so that its not going to be sticking sticking over at the end of the day kind of poking over the edge, because we dont need all this extra wires just extra weight. Okay, now that weve got that we go back and strip these this isnt anything out of the ordinary of like a normal mini quad build these days. I think so, but you will need to know how to do this stuff if youre flying drones, unless you just want to buy ready to flies all the time and you can just crash and like i hope at one point, i dont want to do this because I think it would be very wasteful, but i would love to get to a point where, even if ive been to prop, i just grab a whole new quad.

So i just have quads to the point where i just oh bend to prop give me another quad, and then i never use that quad ever again, im just kidding. I dont want to do that, but it would be funny its like this. Guy has just never built a quad in his life; he just buys binding flies and just fully throws them away as soon as he bends the first prop. So what im going to do now is im going to tin all of these motor wires. I feel like my iron is getting old or something because it doesnt seem as hot as it normally gets at eight. Fifty try not to breathe the smoke or drop solder. Blobs onto your esc, like i just almost, did occasionally throw the solder that builds up on the the tip off and try not to solder the two wires that you have together and if you start getting a lot on the tip like right now, theres a lot. I just kind of flick it off. I dont know why i do that or where i learned that technique, but it just kind of came natural. All right lets get this blob off the arm. Now that we have all that grab a pair of needle nose or a pair of pliers, and what im going to do is im going to run the the motor wires in exactly how theyre set up so straight in straight in, and this helps with uh.

When we go to change the motor direction later, it makes life really easy. So im gon na go first wire here to this first hole here and im: just gon na get it there and hold it, get it hot. Let it go. I know if you use flux the solder joints look better, but they look like more like that. Actually, on this side, same thing, furthest out wire to the hole furthest out, i kind of like to push them down a little bit so theyre more like that. So theyre not sticking straight out, i dont know thats just been a thing that ive done since the beginning and it seems to work so maybe theres something to it. Maybe theres, not sorry for my messy desk but uh thats, just how i roll over here. Sorry, im kind of in the way: okay, the wires are too long. Sometimes it makes it a little harder so thats why i like to cut them short like that, one, its probably a little longer than the other side, just barely so its gon na look a little kinked for a second. Until i go back and fix it and try not to melt your little rubber, your little rubber guys also for some reason like stuff, never looks the same like when you do one side and you do the other side. I dont know why it just always looks different, so there you go thats what youre, looking with thats, what youre working with when you got all the motors and the esc, all soldered up.

It looks really nice theres the bottom again. We have this coming off because itll make more sense when we plug it all in so what were going to do next is were going to grab our flight controller, which its right here hiding under a bunch of stuff, so were going to take our flight controller And with our esc there was sorry theres, so much theres like a mess. Okay, yeah were looking for. This were looking for this wire. This is our esc to flight controller connection. Jesus calm down there guys. So this is a g4 flight controller um. I always have to take off this piece right here because of my video analog tran, my analog video transmitter, uh, so theres two power, two eight pen, connectors that this plugs into uh theres, the top one, the bottom one. How you can tell the difference is theres a usb port on the top here. So this is the top of the flight controller and it goes like one, two, three four or one, two, three, four, depending on how you look at it and its going to sit like this now there usually is a a pin up a connector up here. Sorry, i sometimes remove it depending on what im putting this on on this particular quad. I dont think you need to because youre not dealing with an analog video transmitter being in the way so dont dont freak out that this particular quad is missing.

Um, a pen on the top and the other quads are not so there we go thats how our flight controller is going to sit now we might not want to bolt it fully on yet because we have a couple other things to do like put the video Video stuff in, but i just wanted to talk about you know the what we would ultimately do next, but i think now is probably a good time to put our standoffs on on the front were going to put 35 mil standoffs or i think theyre 30 mil. So were going to have four longer ones, these are the longer guys and then were gon na put those on now were gon na put our chin on the chin. Is this little plastic piece that goes in the front of the quad, and we use these slightly longer steel screws for the chin, anytime, youre, going through plastic or anytime youre going on plastic on this particular build. I like to go with steel as far as the bolt is concerned, because it just makes more sense here. Its a high wear area, its a high wear piece and aluminum is probably just not going to hold up as well as steel on the on this particular area. So we can save weight in certain areas, but on others we just try not to because its going to its going to break so on there on the back, two were gon na run two little aluminum guys.

These are the little button. Super short, i think theyre like six mil, maybe yeah six mil aluminum screws so well put those on and again were using the 30 mil ones in the front and im just going to kind of put these on hand tight, and there are our front standoffs where Our camera plates are going to go in the back. We have these like 20 mils and were going to run aluminums in the back of this. I always run the shorter aluminum ones in the bottom inside right here, because this is a pretty like its a pretty strong area and youre not really going to be too worried about that breaking. You can run the the button heads or the cap head. So the difference between the button and the cap button is a two mil cap. Is a 2.5 mil im just putting these on like this, like kind of hand tight and then in the back um, it just depends like. Sometimes i think honestly, they want you to run the cap heads on the bottom, because i dont think we have enough buttons for the top lets see here, im so used to running cap heads on everything. Okay, so we have enough cap heads to do cap or button, so i guess they give you a little bit of both. So im gon na run longer button heads in the rear, and the only reason i run longer ones in the back is because this is like a high stress area and you want it to be as strong as it can be.

So im going gon na run a slightly longer. I think this is an eight mil, rather than a six mil that we ran on the others. Like i said in the front, i run a longer steel screw and in the back i run a longer aluminum. So there we go, we have our standoffs in now. We need to open up our video system so that we can get in here and um and put that on so video system. This is a wow cadx vista that theyve seemingly put together with with superman intended on getting into this. Come on. Let go okay, let go let go. I hate this. I hate packaging. I hate it with a passion get out of there. Oh my god! Why is that? So in there i like putting a lot of effort to try to get that out. Okay, there we go useless packaging um. We have our thing here and we have our uh antenna so how this antenna thing works. Is you slip the antenna through here and then it sits like that, so you need to pre. Do this before you put all this together and uh. What were going to do is we. I slipped it through the antenna holder and its going to sit on our standoffs like that, but we all we need to connect it to our um to our vista. Now so theres, this little slidey tab that comes out. You want to use a 1.

5 millimeter allen. Key to undo this corner piece right here and then were going to take our ufl and just stick the ufl in there. So weve got that on. There were going to slip this thing over the top. It puts pressure down on the ufl and were going to kind of guide this little pin under. I know this is hard for you to see, but theres a little tiny, keyhole pin thing that sits under there. We may have to push it over and then it clicks into place and that locks that ufl down and then we tighten this thing back and now. This ufl is not going anywhere so thats our the antenna thing we just needed to put our our antenna. 3D printed antenna holder there first so that you know you wouldnt have to take it off to put this on, because it is something that you have to do in order now.