If youre into that sort of thing, i should mention that, if youre not familiar with hd0, this is a new digital sort of fpv format. So your traditional analog goggles are not compatible. Youve got to have the hd zero or fat shark vrx attached to your goggles. There will be some hd0 goggles coming along soon. I think ive heard the first prototypes be shipping in uh, maybe 30 or 60 days – something like that. So this has got the whoop light vtx and the camera, of course, is the latest micro or nano camera its the hd0 nano light camera now down here on the bottom. We have a new form factor for happy model. You can see its kind of carved out and we have soldered on motor wires and this flight controller is the super b f4 light, and this does come in fr sky as well. Express lrs you see here. Ive got the traditional sort of uh all in one antenna for the express lrs. Yes, it is express lrs. The motors are the ex0802 19000 kv motors and on those motors, are the jim fan, 1219 or 31 millimeter by bladed props. It weighs 23.8 grams. I flew it primarily on these newbie drone nitro nectar gold batteries, as well as these tattoo batteries that you see here with the tattoo battery. It weighs just a touch over 32 grams and with the nitro nectar weighs just under 32 grams. As per usual with this frame batteries, they dont fit very tight, but if you flare out these little edges of the battery packages that can help, they also come with a spare canopy, which is taller than a traditional canopies.

That weve seen for like the crux 3, because the hd 0 camera is taller than it is wide. You do get an extra set of props the screwdrivers theres. Some extra screws weve got even some longer length screws done here and a prop remover, which i never use, but the most critical piece that comes in this kit is this guy right here. This is what were going to use to be able to update the firmware on the vtx. In my case, i didnt need to because my vrx was already running the same version. This one was running, but you would traditionally plug it in right here and then you would take the cable that comes with your vrx, plug that in here attach that to your vrx. In order to be able to do the updating, you can find full instructions on hd0s website, as well as a number of tutorials online, but make sure you dont lose this piece, because this seems highly critical and i have yet to find one on sale by itself. But maybe one day and the mobilistics hd0 does come with two stickers. All right. First flight were going to follow my typical format when it comes to whoops were going to fly in the house first, because in the house is my preference. I fly in the house. Almost every day, sometimes its not up on this main floor or upstairs many times its just kind of a couple of packs.

Before i go to bed just kind of cruising around the basement kind of getting that uh that freedom back that de stressor before i head off to sleep uh youll note that the dvr is widescreen, but the camera is set to 4 3 in my goggles. So thats just kind of uh one of those things i think the new vrx has corrected that correctly. If im wrong, i i try to stay up to date with everything, but everything moves something fast. I kind of get lost in the mix. Sometimes, unless i got my hands on one uh, so youre looking at this in widescreen, but when i was flying it in my goggles, my sky zone, oh uh, 04 xs im, looking at it in the 4 3, i have a full review of the woop light. Btx and the nano camera down in the video description down below is where you can find that. So, if you want more details about the camera or the whoop light vtx, that would be the place to go. I dont want to bog down this video with that information, but yeah my my son was home. I think he had just gotten home from work, maybe out of the shower, so i buzzed him a couple times, but not too many times before he started to get annoyed with me. He saw him giving the stink eye there on that last pass right, but uh two flight styles in this video, as we get here to about half a pack yeah were getting close to half a pack.

I will slow down and well do the close proximity. So we did my typical stuff, where i like to just kind of go fast, pod racing or speeder racing sort of round and then were going to slow down and go around the close proximity of the table. And – and this is something like, if you have a really small space – this is enjoyable. This is something that i had actually kind of missed out on for a while, and i dont recall what started me down this path, but ive recently started to do more. Close proximity, high precision, sort of flying and this sort of stuff can help increase your skills when it comes to outside as well. So, even if you have a small space, whoops are always, in my opinion, appropriate for the smallest of small spaces. Thats one of the the great things about their small form factor is shrink down the quad. The space it requires to fly in is also shrunk down. You can still go out to bigger spaces, but its going to make small spaces seem bigger versus, say you know a 75 millimeter or whatnot. I do think that they went with buy blades on this primarily to hit the flight time goal. Im noticing more and more quads are basing their battery recommendation as well as seemingly choosing some components based upon a three minute flight time. Thats me speculating about you know their thoughts. I dont havent tapped into their thoughts, but i think thats, probably where were at because in my case i would probably go try blades on this.

Okay were gon na bring it into land. Here, as we go back to the home screen, we are going to see our battery voltage came in right about exactly where you want it, unless you want storage voltage so thats, why i chose this flight two minutes 55 seconds mixed bag flying and our battery at 351 now, as we take off notice, something i want to draw your attention to look at the view as its going to jiggle, see that see how its kind of jiggling now watch later in the video it either stabilizes goes away or becomes less much less dramatic. But that that was something time and time again, i would take off from the table and maybe its maybe theres something about that glass table. I would take off from that table and i would see that jumping around im, like ive got messed up props and then i would fly a little bit and it would kind of go away. No, its see its still doing it. I do have some wind um, but its well protected here in the backyard so theres, not that much wind hitting the quad. You will see a part of this flight where i again, i do some close proximity around the swing set and i do get blown off course. But, quite honestly, you know at what 32 grams it doesnt take a whole lot of wind to blow you off course. So if you plan to fly outside thats going to be more challenging uh, not just with this particular one, but you know all hoops that are less than say: 85 millimeters 75 millimeter can do pretty good in some wind uh, the mobiulus 70 lrs, the 1s version That one did pretty nicely in a little bit of wind.

I thought, but 85 millimeter would be safer. You know more prop more authority, so its gon na be able to battle the wind a little bit more. I also do some dive testing with this one, which ill show in a picture and picture back at the desk, but well get to that as we get on and ill try to include some of my crashes and crashes are so tedious. You have to scrub through an entire video because since you know, turtle mode came along it used to be. You just went to the end of the dvr file, because if you crashed out, then you stopped your recording and you went and got the quad. And then you got a fresh battery and you started over again right. Well, since turtle mode, you just flip it over and you go on about your your flight, so you got ta scrub through the entire video, so crash reels theyre a bit tedious and ive got a few things about the betaflight setup that i want to kind of Alert us to as well, because i think out of the box, the battery voltage is set far too low. Again. I think theyre trying to drive towards that three minute flight time, but i think its too low because youre going to end up with the camera powering down, because you get too far below 3 volts pretty dang quickly. You know these little 1s batteries, especially if youre youre flying very aggressively once they get down to like 3.

1 volts. They go from 3.1 volts to 2.9 and lower pretty dead gum, quick, and so you need to bring it in. I made a number of uh battery adjustments as far as the the warning goes, and i also left in that muted dive that yeah as far as being highly capable for freestyle or big moves, no, its its a 65 millimeter digital loop, its its gon na struggle, When it comes to doing big freestyle maneuvers, this is going to be primarily for some of the flight stuff that you see in this uh video doing big moves. Yeah. Some people are going to be able to pull it off. People way more skilled than myself, but so you can see, i didnt even make it back home. I had to land right away and my voltage is still danger, low and look at it. Dropping dropping dropping, dropping and eventually the camera will power off. As we get too low, i saw 2.76. We can still see 2.79 on the screen, though up here in the top left ill go ahead and play my dive testing uh. The long and the short of that is, if you miss out at the end of the battery, i found that it would tend to want to do the yaw wash out where it would. You would be coming in for a dive and it would pitch up and itd start to wiggle around one way or another, a little bit uncontrollably.

So when youre watching that over there youll see a number of dives that look just fine. But then, if you watch towards the end, as the battery voltage starts to get low yeah and when youre doing those dives its pretty much a full throttle, recovery and youve got to time your recovery, along with your the height from the ground. You saw in my flight how i let it get too low and i think i got up to 88 or 89 on the throttle, not 100, but i bounced off the ground and you know 88.89 thats pretty high still. So i dont think if id have gone to 100, i would have been able to maybe just skim the grass uh in my main outdoor flight video. So i appreciate the fact that they included a secondary canopy because its going to be pretty important because again this camera, the height, is specific. You know i built a couple of these and you know mine would come danger close down here onto the board, so that where you had a top impact, you know that camera could be driven down into your btx, which you dont want. So some things to watch out for, as so far as all vtxs go make sure your antenna stays connected. Our antenna comes off thats bad. I would prefer to see a little bit of black adhesive or you know any sort of adhesive that would help this stay on.

I didnt have any troubles i left it just like it is. I think, if its mounted like that, in most traditional crashes, its not going to come loose but theres always a possibility and then, if you dont notice it and you just go. Oh, my video reception is terrible now well its this, and you may have just burned the board, because these boards do get hot. All micro vtxes get hot, but it can damage these and digital vtxs are more expensive. So you have to be careful. Of course, if you dont have good connections on both the board for the mipi cable as well as on the camera, then you need to firm that up. These can come off in crashes as well, and all the crashes that i had that ill play some crashes. After that dive reel is over, i did not have either one of those come loose, but all crashes are different. You know you can have a terrible crash and you think you just broke the world and your quad just flies away, and then you have what thinks a minor crash and your quad doesnt power up anymore. So yeah, maybe my crashes are just extra special uh. So again, i want to reaffirm that you have motors that are soldered to this different board down here and for some people thats going to be a deal breaker because youre going to want the ability to replace your components without soldering thats.

Just not the case with this one, its hard to get this small, this light with digital and still be able to viably run 1s, so thats, just something that we have to live with. I am a little surprised. They didnt go for their smaller motor, their their 0702, because i think that might have saved us one more gram, but at any rate, so something else to mention here is uh. So i ran these stick batteries and i found and im not saying that youll find the same, because you never know that this battery lead length was just enough, so i trimmed off some of the heatsink. So i can make it more pliable here and with my battery all the way forward, i could just plug it in comfortably. So hopefully, all the leads are the same length and theyre all routed the same as far as on the soldering for the board and youll be able to do the same otherwise youre looking at running a battery with a lead connected to it and then well. How i run those is, i run the battery in this way and then the lead comes around so anyways uh. Also i in some of my flights, i noticed this little antenna. I didnt i didnt recognize what i was looking at when i was in the goggles, but after i took the goggles off like after that flight, or something like that. I was like oh thats.

What that black little thing was, so this can get into your view. You can, of course, reroute it its not like glued there or anything you can reroute it wherever you want uh if youre running, espresso arrest its not likely to impact your range terribly. If you just leave it, you know somewhere between the battery tray and the main. All in one board, but it is going to reduce your range depending upon how you orient the antenna, so dont go a long ways away something else that i noticed was uh plugging in a usb cable. For me, in order to be able to not weighing into the battery tray all the time i had to use one of these long nose usb cables because it just gets passed. I dont know how i can show that. Maybe this way is the best way to show it. It just gets past that, whereas my shorter nose would then id have to kind of push things out of the way and id be applying pressure. Um ill put this down in the video description, but just if you uh, i think i bought these from amazon. I believe i got the first one from geelang. I dont know if theyre still making quads or not but uh guiling had quads and they just standard sent these long nose usb cables and then i went and bought one or two from amazon. So i think if you search long nose, usb cable, this will turn up in the first page or two or three not required, but it can be handy.

Okay, so lets look at the some of the changes that i made. Nothing really fundamental, but you can see here. I changed the battery voltage, the cell minimum cell and the warning cell voltage to what you see. You didnt see me flying with these because actually came later on after that flight, where i started making more battery changes inside flying, i did not find the battery to be well. I could i could sneak a peek every now and again and i got a pretty good feel for my timing but outside i really didnt get a feel for my time, because you know you can do bigger maneuvers. You can be on the throttle longer and your battery, just it doesnt last as long so outside has a big variable, but inside i found that i just flew it, and then i tried to land it at about. What i thought was appropriate outside is where i got into trouble a lot where my camera, i would be flying below three volts and the camera would just power off. Vtx would stay going, but the camera would power off. So this is what i found for me outside these voltages work, and now you might be looking at the 4.4 and saying. Why is that the max? Well, when youre high volt charging your single cell batteries, which i do high volt charge, my single cell batteries, sometimes betaflight, will detect it. If youd set it say 4.

25 or 4.3, it will detect it as a 2s battery because it goes over that voltage or youll get a low bolt low voltage warning on screen, even though its actually over voltage so thats. Why thats there also i get asked in most videos, the these are my rates and they are the rates ive been using for years. I am still using beta flight rates on pitch and roll are the same and then yaw is a touch different. You can see there im going 1300 degrees at the extent of the yaw, as well as 960 on the pitch and roll. I took a screenshot here of the motors tab and you can see weve got the bi directional d shot on so weve got rpm filtering that were using uh, obviously no battery plugged in so you dont see any sort of real movement there, and this is the Pid tune on mine, one of the keys that i can tell you about is: if you want to go from angle or horizon flying indoor, you stabilization, we oftentimes call it and i think it still says stab in the osd for angle mode. But if you want to transition to acro, whether for fun or for a challenge or because you want to become one of the fastest whoop pilots out there, because they all seem to be going acro now my best hint i can give you is, if you use Angle or horizon mode to transition to acro, because it can be something thats, difficult and people struggle with, that is to decrease the strength of angle and horizon mode, say: take it down 10 or 12 points and fly 10 or 15 packs or 20 packs or 30 Packs, whatever youre you start to feel comfortable and then drop it down another 10 or 15 and then fly 20, 30, 40 packs and drop it down another 10 or 15.

And by that point you should be almost down to zero anyways and you can just flip over to acro and give aggro a try, so thats thats a good tip for transitioning. Your indoor flying uh from angular horizon mode stability mode into acro or rate mode, depending upon what terms you want to use. I mentioned it a few times in this video, but i i still think theyre going for that three minute flight time and for me this felt a little underpowered and it didnt quite give me what i was looking for in a whoop indoor flying now. I dont tend to fly my whoops casually outside. I fly them outside to show them on the video. So when i talk about most whoops im thinking of them indoor, although when i have conversations, i try to consider outdoor so for me, what i would do is either one of two things. I think the first thing i would do is put tri blades on it. Id probably go out. I probably have some newbie drone z, tri blades nuby drones got the z, tri blades uh, whether theyre the 31 millimeter or the 40 millimeter theyre nice smooth and light props. They do tend to break at the hub if youre flying the 1.5 millimeter shafts um so its something to consider there, so i would probably and thats probably what ill do next is put tri blades on it see if it comes alive, 19 000 kv is fine.

Maybe we need 22, 000 or 23 000 kv. Maybe the tri blades will be able to bridge that gap again. This is for me. The other thing that i would probably try is something that i do with most 65 millimeter whoops is to put them in a 75 millimeter frame and put 40 millimeter props on them. We know oh 802 motors can handle 40 mil 40 millimeter props, just fine, so theres no reason to stop us from making this hd01s a 75 millimeter format and maybe thats why they just made the 65 millimeter one because they know knuckleheads like me, will be out Here talking about how we need to put this in a 75 millimeter format, i think if you want to fly outside and youre, not locked into 1s and youre interested or you have hd 0, i would go back and look at the mobiulus 7 hd 0.. This is 2s, of course, much more capable outside. So, if youre looking to do freestyle maneuvers, not just snap, you know flips and rolls outside or inside really. This is going to be more capable because its its running 2s and its got bigger motors on it. So that that makes sense, but for right now, if youre doing 1s hd 0, this looks like the one to have and of course, if youre like me – and you want to have a little bit more prop authority, of course, we can run a larger battery in The 75 millimeter frame because it can put a 450 in there well as well, so that gives a little bit of advantage.

But if youre like me – and you want a little bit more pop a little bit more speed – just slap this into a 75 millimeter format frame that youve got around, throw some 40 millimeter props and then probably have to work on the pid tune as well. But im going to well at least ill think about featuring that in a video coming up, whether it be just try blades or 75 millimeter, you tell me, which one would you watch first say: ive got both ready to go for the hd 0 mobiulus 6. Here. Would you rather see the 75 millimeter hd 0 1s, or would you rather just start with stepping into the tri blades tell me down in the comment section below so i know where to go ill, probably start with tri blades, because thats easy and then go to The 75 millimeter format, but if you can really sway me, i maybe ill just jump right to the 75 millimeter format. If youre interested in the mobius 6 hd 0, the worlds only binding fly 65 millimeter digital, tiny, whoop ill have links to where its available down. In the video description, if you have any comments, questions suggestions or otherwise, let me know what you want to see next on this. Let me know down there in the comment section below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0eUO2LLU2TM