I looked at my wall of quadcopters over there and i said: hmm, i don’t have any actual racing drones, they’re, all freestyle, drones and yeah. I know you can race a freestyle drone there’s, nothing wrong with that. I’Ve done it, but i’m, not the best pilot, so i may as well have the best gear and that’s. Why i’m building a quadcopter today and it’s gon na be a damn good racing. Drone i’ll still be slow as crap around the track, but at least i’ll know it’s me that’s slowing me down and not my quadcopter i’m joshua bardwell. Maybe if i build a good quadcopter, it’ll motivate me to practice more and get faster right, that’s, what you do right! You buy expensive gear, roll, the intro, Music Applause, Music. All of the products that you’re going to see me using in this video were purchased by me with real money. None of them were sent to me by any store or vendor. I have not received any money or other financial compensation for making this video and nobody has had any approval or editorial control over the content of this video. As with most of my build videos, the first thing we’re going to do is go through the parts that i’ve selected and talk about. Why i have selected them and the frame, what frame could it be other than the 533 switchback? This is evan turner’s frame, evan turner, one of the fastest racing pilots in the world.
Uh lives in knoxville about 30 minutes from my house. Uh has his own company 533 racing and makes this frame, which is flown not just by him, but by some of the other fastest racing. Pilots in the world, including, i believe, minchan kim and i believe, alex van over van over used to have his own racing frame, but for one reason or another he doesn’t anymore, and he just everybody just seems to agree. This is the best racing frame. One of the best so of course that’s what i’m gon na go with as well for motors, we are also going to be using the 533. This is, i believe, a 22 and what the dickens so this motor is 2207 in size and 6s kv, and one of the cool things i mean how different it could be from any other 2207 motor out there. One thing that makes this motor stand out is: if you run this motor you’re eligible to go to freedom, class, races and freedom class is a kind of spec racing, so spec racing, they basically say everyone must run the same equipment and that way it is a Level playing field and the pilots have to compete purely on skill. The only requirement is that everyone has to be running. His motor seems a little bit self serving i get it, but the argument is that the motor is the number one thing that determines sort of the power of the quadcopter and that by limiting everyone to the same motor, then pilots can bring whatever other equipment.
They prefer to run and still be on a relatively level playing field, but there’s more to freedom class than just running this motor. They take this 6s motor and they run it on 3s, which means that, if you’re good pilot, you basically can be hitting full throttle. All the way around the course, but it forces you to focus more on pilot skill than on raw power and it levels the playing field a little bit for people of different skill levels. And then, if you need to, if you want to go to like a regular race, you just take the exact same motor, you run it on 6s and you go all out. The other thing that jumps out about these motors is this connector. This is an mr30 connector it’s kind of like an xt30, and it comes pre soldered on the motors, and it comes with this other connector which plugs in and then you solder it up. Just like any other motor. You can buy these motors without the mr30s. If you prefer to do it the regular way, but evan’s argument is that having the connector pre soldered to the motor makes it easier to swap the motor or swap an arm. If you damage it in a race, you don’t have to solder it up, and in fact you could even have spare arms with motors pre installed ready to drop in some people have argued that the additional weight and complexity is not really worth it and they’ve said Things like no true racer, whatever use mr30 connectors, to which i say.
Maybe so i mean i see your point but evan turner obviously, is the true racer and he uses them so anyway, that’s what we’re going to be using. Now we come to the esc and i’m so excited to show you guys the csc. This is the redux air 32 bit esc and people have been you probably haven’t heard of it. It’S been made in limited, runs and been tested by some top racers who swear by it. The reason it jumps out to me is because it has 20 millimeter mounting so it’ll go on this. The switchback frame doesn’t have 30 millimeter sized holes and most racing frames. Don’T, it has 20 millimeter mounting, but you can see it is much larger than a 20 millimeter esc which allows it to use full size fets and, in addition to just using full size. Fets. The designers of the csc have made other decisions that they say and racers agree makes it one of the most durable and highest performance. Esc’S van over said that he thinks you get seven miles an hour more on the straights with this esc. How does he know? I don’t know, but my goal with choosing this esc is to be able to turtle mode, because if you crash and you turtle mode in the grass and you’re trying to flip over and get back in the race, i have blown two esc’s in two races. Doing that exact thing and sure, maybe the answer is by the time you crash you’ve already lost, so you may as well.
Just save your esc, but i refuse turtle mode is a thing and i want it as an option and that’s. Why we’re going to be going with this esc now? As far as flight controllers go, i have to confess the one that i’m going to be using was not my first pick. My first pick was the talon f7, the heli nation talon f7, many of the racers. I talked to, and i said, what’s what’s the best flight controller. What do you like? They said that was their preference. One of the nice things about the helination talent is that it has a built in pit switch that switches your video transmitter completely off. It literally powers it down and that’s pretty cool, but we’re gon na have another way of working around that problem. I’Ll show you in just a second: this is the acon f7 hd. We will not be using the hd part. We won’t be using dji on our racing rig. I have this exact same flight controller. In my catalyst, machine works, shocker 4 inch it’s worked pretty well. For me. I suspect that when choosing a flight controller that’s – probably the least significant of the choices you’re going to make on a racing build because the esc is going to be taking all the hits. The motors need to be powerful and strong in the frame, but the flight controller is probably going to be okay, pretty much, no matter what you pick.
This is the one we’re going to be using and finally, the camera is going to be the run. Cam racer nano 2 and i got to confess the only reason i’m picking this camera is because the switchback frame is sized for a nano camera. I actually don’t really like the image quality of this camera very much, but evan turner uses it for racing, so it must be good enough and it i don’t know if any other sort of better nano cameras for racing. The last two parts of this build are the video transmitter and the receiver and, in this case, they’re actually the same part because we’re going to be using the ghost hybrid from immersion rc, and this is an immersion, rc, video transmitter and an immersion rc ghost receiver. On a single 20 millimeter board and like, why would you do that like? Why not just use a video transmitter and some separate receiver, you could and many people do but having them in the same board number one. It just saves you a little bit of soldering a little bit of wiring and number two. There are features of the immersion, rc ghost system and the tram system that make it easier to manage your channels and easier to do certain racing related things. So many racers that i talk to are swearing by this as being one of the easiest ways to build a racing rig and the easiest ways to manage your video transmitter in the field and i’ll probably make a separate video just about the ghost hybrid.
So definitely make sure you’re subscribed and hit the notification bell down there. If you don’t want to miss that, but we’re just going to build it up in this video, whenever i build a quadcopter, i prefer to build the frame first, then the motors then solder up the esc, then the flight controller and the remainder that’s. How i do it so we’re going to start building this frame and we’ll begin with this, which they call the mid plate and this which i believe they call the anti wiggle plate and by the way, thanks to evan turner. He has a great build tutorial for this frame it’s about 35 minutes long. He takes you through the build and he also talks about some of his philosophy behind why he designed the frame he did the way he did and i’ll put a link to that down. In the video description we’re going to take this plate, we’re going to have the press nuts facing down and we’re going to have the wiggle plate with the countersunk milled screw holes facing up we’re, going to lay them on top of each other. Like so and then we’re going to get the countersunk screws and you’ll see, there are two sets of countersunk screws here: we’re going to use the shorter countersunk screws to join these together, i’m just going to pass through there right now, they’re not going to thread into Anything next we’re going to get our standoffs and we’re going to just loosely thread them onto the screws to hold everything in place.
The next thing we’re going to do is take the long countersunk screws and the set of nylock nuts. There is an extra one there. You only need four and we’re going to put those up through the stack screw holes. Now you are going to want to tighten these all the way down because, as you’re going to see in a minute, the arms are going to cover up this screw head and it’s going to be inaccessible once the arms are installed. This is something that really bugged me about the impulse rc apex like if this were to come loose. Somehow you would have to take the arms apart in order to tighten it back down again, but 533 has included these nyloc nuts, and so the chances of them loosening up are hopefully pretty low. Still, someone get me a driver, an electric driver, please. This is gon na kill me one down four to go once we’ve got the stack, screws all installed and snug. The next thing to do is install the arms and the arms just slot into the wiggle plate. Like so, and then a screw is going to go down through here in just a second i’ll. Show you how to do that. One of the things evan says in his build video is that they intentionally make the tolerances of these arms just a little too big. Instead of a little too small because they want them to fit in they’re really snuggly and they don’t want them to wiggle at all.
And what that means is that in some cases you will not be able to fully insert the arm, because it’ll be just a little too too big that’s. Why they include this file, and so, if you’ve got an arm that won’t completely go in, you may need to just slightly file this down a little bit in order to get it to fit perfectly then we’re going to take this bottom plate here. Please notice that it has one side with countersunk holes and one side with not countersunk holes. The countersunk side is obviously going to go out facing the screw heads and, in addition, it is not quite symmetrical notice that there’s through a row of three holes here in the front and back that’s, going to go toward the front and back and it’s going to Line up with those armholes and then we’re going to take our four longer countersunk screws and we’re going to screw in the arms. If the arm’s not fully inserted, i guess it kind of makes the screw go off to the side. That’S. Why? I wasn’t wanting to line up with the the countersunk screw or the press nut. Rather, i think i like putting the arms in one at a time and trying to sort of hold it in snugly. I mean definitely press fit it before you start putting the screws in to make sure they’re going to go and you don’t need to file it. But then it seems to me, like you kind of almost want the screw to be just a little under tension.
Maybe so the arm gets squeezed in yeah, so it’s, really squeezed in and pressed into that press nut or into that wiggle plate securely. But it kind of feels like if i’m, not pressing the arm in as i’m, inserting the screw, then the screw doesn’t really want to go in straight now. We can tighten all these down once they’re all fully inserted. I really like how this sort of places the arms and the screws under tension if these were aluminum screws i’d, be a little worried about shearing them off. I would not build this with aluminum screws, but the wiggle plate is pushing the arms outward. The screw is pushing the arm inward and it’s all sort of under tension, that’s really cool. Next. There are two more screws we need to put in here and here and they are the remaining long countersunk screws, uh they’re, going to screw into press nuts on the base plate and what i want you to see here. Let me get these just barely snug. What i want you to see is that there’s, no carbon, there you’re just sort of compressing this bottom plate you’re not like squeezing it or sandwiching it against anything, and that means that if you put these screws in too tight they’re gon na crack this bottom plate. So what evan says in his build guide? Is you just get it snug and then go another, maybe quarter to a half a turn that’s.
It just need that last little bit of compression there next we’re going to take this bag of 12 m3 screws. These are motor screws. 533 is a frame manufacturer who took my advice. I complained a while back that frame. Manufacturers should include the correct length of screw for their arms so that the screws were not sticking through the motor too far or you know, were long enough to grab um and i don’t know if they did that. Just because i complained, or if they were already gon na, do that but i’m a fan of it, i don’t, i think frame manufacturers should be providing motor screws. Now that all four of the motors are installed, i think the next thing i’m going to do is plug in these mt 30 connectors and tape them down to the arms and what i think i’ve seen other people doing. Is you tape this connector so that then, if you ever have to replace the arm, you could just pull it apart and it goes with the arm. The motor goes with the arm and what else would i use to do this other than this beautiful red electrical tape, which i know you guys think is so attractive and appealing i’ve heard your comments talking about how you think it looks so much better than like Wire, loom or or nice black fabric tape. I know you love it and that’s. Why i keep doing it. Does not look good and it’s gon na go so well with the blue with the blue 3d printed pieces.
Oh, my god looks so good. You guys i’m gon na do the other four arms. Now now we come to the esc. I have inserted these rubber grommets and in case you hadn’t figured it out by now by the way, the screws that come with this frame, our m3 screws, a lot of 20 millimeter hardware, is sized for m2 screws but we’ve. Luckily, we’ve done we’ve selected the right stuff here um. This is also size for m3s it’s. Just going to push down over here make sure you don’t accidentally squeeze those grommets out once upon a time i didn’t use flux. I just relied on the flux that was in my rosin course solder, but i’ve decided to set a good example, and i like to give myself a little bit extra room so i’m going to cut that to length let’s, say right about here. Just so, i got a little extra, a little more flux since i burned the flux out when i did the last one, oh yeah, since i burned the flux out when i tinned it a little fresh flux on here. Well, it’s a little longer than it could have been, and you can see we got a little bit of creep where the solder soaked up in here and stiffen the wire. So the other way i sometimes do it is i’ll lay them over the top of each other coming straight off the back, and it hides that a little.
What i might do here is just what about this. Just give it a twist. Oh that’s, not too bad it’s, also pretty ugly but i’m, not going to resolder it she’s done boys let’s. Take a look at the solder joints: Music that’s. What flux does flux makes a big difference. Next we’re going to do the xt60 connector the battery connector and we’re, not going to forget the capacitor um, especially on a 20 millimeter, where they don’t have many. I mean they got some capacitors for sure, but this is going to make a big difference. It’S 1000 microfarad 35 volts plenty for a success, build definitely make sure to get the negative side on the negative pad, and i really like that. The redux esc has these holes for the capacitor we’ll cut that a little shorter but um. It makes it really easy to mount the capacitor and the battery pad or the battery wire at the same time put that over the top like so something like that yeah and put the oh yeah. Oh, i like that we’re gon na hang that off the back. Like so, and then we’ll put this around the side, like maybe that yeah i like that a lot, especially on these big pads and i’m, going to crank my iron up to max up to 850. um Music. If i were using a heavier tip, i wouldn’t need so much heat, but i’m lazy and don’t like changing tips so i’m, just using this little chisel tip and especially for the negative pad we’re going to need all the heat we can get i’m just going to Wait for that to flow as the pad takes up heat there we go yeah, nice, minus plus is going to be roughly here so now they are cut to length to come off sideways twist and again for these big wires.
This flux is going to really make a big difference, going to really help that solder flow in there to this big 12 gauge wire, see how quick it starts. Taking up that solder so fast, the wire starts melting, the solder and taking it up so much faster. If you’ve got flux on there, because the flux helps the heat go through, the wire boom see how it’s flowing into the wire beautiful. I want that length of exposed wire to be just about the same as the size of the pad, and it is and i’m going to do the positive pad first, because the negative is going to lay over the top so i’m going to get this one out Of the way, and then do this one it’s going to be tricky to get my iron in here hang on, i got to rotate this beautiful, looking good so far, boys. Looking good, i usually like to restrain that capacitor. Some see that’s no good it’s going to move like that in crashes. Well, i wish i had thought of this before i soldered it up, but it’s too late. Now i can’t get it to go any further down i’d love to like just brace it against this board. Maybe if i put some tape in or something hmm it’s, something it’s something. Oh i just realized. I haven’t done the wiring between the esc and the flight controller. I have to do that next and the redux air comes with this plug it’s pinned out on one side for the redex, redux, esc and it’s naked crimped pins on the other side, and it comes with this naked plug here.
So you just pin it out. However, it needs to be the first thing: i’m going to check is whether it has the same number of pins as on the acon. It appears that it does. Yes, it is the correct number. So then we just have to get the pins in the right place. All right so here’s the pin out for the redux air. We got ground and v, bat that’s, obviously the black and the red wire, and we can work our way right to left from there so i’m. Just going to keep that handy – and here is our pin out for the acon, and i always like to refer to the silks – i mean they got a printed pin, pin out as well, but i always like to refer to the silk screen. If there is one, because i think it’s, just one step less step to mix up so then again to make sure i get things in the right order, what i like to do, because what, if you accidentally pin it out upside down, what i like to do Is just plug in this plug right here and then we’re going to start with ground, okay, so now i’m going to pull this out and i’m gon na just insert the ground, it can be a little tricky to get it in there all the way you always When you’re making a plug like this, you always want to give a tug don’t rip it out, obviously, but just give a gentle tug on it and make sure it is fully locked in so now that we’ve got the ground in place.
We can work our way right to left and we know we’re not building the connector upside down and that’s. What we’ve got here with ground v bat and one two three four basically going straight through, and then the telemetry and the current wire being the odd ones out going to slightly different location anyway. The other thing you’re going to want to do is make absolutely sure you plug the redux side into the redux and the acon side into the acon um, fortunately ground and v battery in the same place on both of them. So you won’t fry anything. If you get it wrong, but on some builds you would you would basically try something if you got it wrong. I should really have plugged this in before. I started building this because this is a pain in the bootox. Now the next thing i’ve done is install the acon f7 flight controller on top of the esc, and i wanted to see whether the gummies alone would provide enough separation that these guys wouldn’t touch but i’m, not sure i’m comfortable it’s a little hard for me to Show you on camera, but especially on the on the front here, it looks like there’s things that are touching, so i am going to need to put some spacing on there. So i think what i’m going to do is i’m, just going to put some m3 washers on here. They are nylon, washers, so they’re not going to have any electrical issues and we’ll put that down.
On top before you place this flight controller down on those mounting screws, there is something you’re going to need to change on the underside here: i’m, just going to swipe there to remove the existing solder bridge and then i’m going to create a new one yikes. This is tiny, hmm, okay and then on the plug. Here. The plug on the acon is on the back side, so we’re gon na have to come across and i think what i’m going to do is i’m, going to put that second set of of washers back on. To give me enough spacing so i’m, not crushing those wires i’m going to plug it in here. I’Ll double check that ground and v better in the right place, just to double check that i didn’t screw up. My wiring i’ll give it some twists to take out the slack and yeah that’s looking real good. I don’t want to be too snug, but then i’m also gon na yeah, try and figure out where this can go so i’m, not crushing it. Maybe it should come across the top i don’t know. Maybe i should come across the top it’s kind of a mess there let’s see if it goes it’s going to be in the way if it goes across the top, though, but there’s all these capacitors in the way down here. Damn it that’s fine we’ll make that work, there’s more room up on top here to kind of lay this wire down underneath this plug.
So when the ghost hybrid goes on top, it won’t crush this wire, whereas on the underside there’s, not as they’re closer together there’s, not as much room for the wire to run. So i guess that’s what we’re going to do and i’m going to go ahead and install this camera as well. Eraser nano in fact i yeah i’m, just going to need these screws, which come with the camera, hmm long screws or short screws. Oh yeah that’s that’s way too much that’s going to damage the camera that’s for a much thicker mount and while it’s convenient i’ll go ahead and plug this camera lead in here. One of these is going to be for power ground and video and the other is going to be for the camera joystick. The camera pads are right here on the flight controller and i think i’m, going to use 10 volts for this one um putting on vbat will mean more video noise, because the voltage won’t be filtered 10 volts will have it filtered 5. Volts would have it filtered. Even more but we’re going to be running the ghost hybrid, which is a video transmitter and receiver off of the 5 volt rail, so i’m, going to run the camera off the 10 volt rail just to kind of reduce the risk of overloading the 5 volt regulator. Alrighty, this is as good as time as any for a smoke check. I wouldn’t want to proceed any further.
If something was wired, wrong, i’ve gone through and double triple checked. All my pluses are pluses and minuses are minuses. Everything seems correct. I’M, going to get my smoke stopper this here is a v fly short saver. It is an electronic smoke. Stopper i’ve got a video about it. I’Ll put a link in the video description. If you want to find out why, i think this is the pretty essential piece of kit and plug a battery in here and no smoke, no smoke, no smoke seems legit led. My flight controller led is behaving normally motor’s. All beeped everything seems okay, nothing blew up. Let’S proceed: let’s. Take a look at the pin out of the ghost hybrid we’ve got five volts ground and video in the same as with any video transmitter, we’ve got serial parentheses ghost, which is the green wire, and that is going to be the output from the ghost receiver. So we’re going to wire that up just like we would a receiver and then finally there’s the telemetry, the blue, wire and we’re not going to be using that now, i’m, going to put just a little thought into how i’m going to wire this. The pads that we’re going to be using are up here for the video transmitter and we’re going to need to pick one of these for our receiver. It can be any uart tx pad and it looks like on this flight controller. The receiver is meant to be over here, but there’s only a receiver pad r1 right.
There, there’s no tx pad so we’re, probably going to end up over here on uart2 or there’s, also uart 4 and five. We could use we’re going to go with t2. I believe, and then finally let me just think about how this is going to mount. I mean i don’t think i’m going to need the wires to be very long at all, but i probably want this coming out the back, probably doesn’t matter, that’s going to be the antenna for the receiver. Oh yeah there’s plenty of wire there that doesn’t really matter, so i guess this is going to need to be relatively short, yeah. Okay, we’ll just come out the front, so the first thing i’m going to do is remove this blue wire, which we’re not going to use i’m just going to do that by lifting up this prong. Oh, i i would normally try and do it a little neater than that to avoid damaging the plug. So i could reinsert a wire later if i needed to but doing this on camera without a magnifier is a little tricky there. We go that’s gone it’s in decent shape. We can push it back down. We could we could reuse that it’s not broken off mostly now thinking about wiring this up. We need green to go all the way over to t2, but then so let’s let’s set the length based on the red, yellow and black, which are going to be here on the video, editor, header and they’re, really just going to need to like come back around This way, so they really don’t need to be super long.
So this flight controller plus is the positive voltage, um it’s, going to be 5 volts for this one v is video and g is ground and then t3 is where you would put the blue wire. If you were going to use the flight controller to control the video transmitter, which we’re not i’m, going to run this green wire over here, where it’s going to go to t2 and we’ll, just give this some twists to sort of keep it all neat. And then it’s going roughly here so just get that length about right and there we go let’s solder down and the result is, as we see here next thing, i’m going to do is install the gummies in the hybrid, and i can’t tell if this is brilliant Or stupid, but i think it’s, brilliant they’ve gotten just a little bit of a cut there, so you can slide the gummies in why don’t doesn’t everybody do this there’s got to be a reason? Is there going to turn out to be some secret downside that i’m gon na regret later i don’t know for now it seems like a great idea. No, these wires are getting in the way let’s see if i kind of move them off to the side, so they sit down next to the next. To that plug housing. No, the hybrid is touching the flight controller, so i don’t think we’re going to be able to just drop in washers i’ve got these little washers and i think they’re going to be perfect.
These little rubber o rings. I think they’re going to be perfect. Yes, that is just the right height and then does the frame come with nuts for the top. Here we just need m3 nuts. All right our flight control stack is set up, looks like everything’s got good, spacing nothing’s touching each other. This is the point where i would stop the build and do the beta flight setup do all the beta flight setup before finishing of the assembly, but in the interest of putting this into one video i’m going to go ahead and finish the assembly of the quad. Next we’re going to take the top plate and we’re going to slide the antenna mount onto the rear of the top plate. That’S going to be right here, it’s going to have these two little tabs that will slide right in and we’ll get the sma connector for the antenna and stick it through here next i’m, going to install my antenna and i’m going with this lumineer axey stubby antenna. This build is obviously intended, mostly for stubby antennas, which are going to keep that profile. Low i’m going to make sure that i don’t twist the coaxial cable in the connector, while installing it that’s easy to do with this connector from the ghost hybrid, which has these little ears that let you grip it get that good and snug make sure it’s fully Installed great it’s going to push onto the rear standoffs like so, and this is the uh shark fin for turtle mode to help.
Keep the front motors out of the grass and let you flip over, and these uh mine are red. Evan says in the build video for the frame he just says different color. These are titanium screws for the top wow. You can really feel how much lighter they are. They really don’t weigh a damn thing like it’s, just four screws. How much could they possibly weigh? You can really feel it’s like like holding nothing in your hand. We’Re gon na go ahead and put these in and anytime you’re dealing with a situation like this, where you’re putting screws into tpu you’re going to want to make sure you don’t over, tighten them and because you’ll just crush the tpu out of the way. And in fact, you can use m3 washers, which i’ve done in the past. If i was working with like a gopro mount, i didn’t want to rip the gopro mount out i’m – probably not going to do that this time, because probably if that was necessary, evan would have mentioned it i’m, going to guess it’s, not an issue i’m going to Bend this down here and zip tie it off. I may double up that zip tie or use a heavier zip tie, give some strain relief if we are to crash uh. Just a couple, quick details here that i didn’t put in when i originally recorded this uh one is the antenna holder for the ghost antenna. I wasn’t sure exactly how i was going to mount it.
It turns out that 533 has a whole thingiverse album for prints related to the switchback, and there is this, a holder for a whole bunch of different antennas, not just the ghost antenna, but also crossfire and many other useful 3d prints, including all the 3d prints that You see in this build, you can just print them yourself if you don’t want to get them from 533, so we’re going to go ahead and mount that it certainly fits don’t know if i like that, no i’m gon na do it like this and keep the Cable on the top side, so that just goes and the center screw goes through there. I also did not put a battery strap for the sake of completeness we’ll. Do that and we’re going to need a battery pad i’m a little conflicted here. I don’t want to cover up these screws, but i would really like it to go long ways. So if i were to do it that way, there wouldn’t be a lot to stabilize the battery. I would kind of want to rock so i think that’s what i’m going to do, so we can still change the arm by pulling these screws. Maybe no, i don’t – i don’t, know anyway that’s what i’m gon na do for now. I might have to take that off. If i ever need to change an arm and there we go, i have a racing quad, a real legit racing quad for the season of racing uh.
The next thing to do, of course, is to go into betaflight and blheli and set it all up, and i am gon na make a video about that. It’Ll be coming out on my channel in the next few days, definitely make sure you’re subscribed and hit the notification bell, so you don’t miss it uh many of the people doing a build at this level probably already know how to set it up, though um. If you want to get the exact parts that i’m using in this video they’re linked down in the video description, many of them are available at 533, evan turner’s company uh. Definitely a company worth your support. It literally is just evan started this company out of his family’s garage and he just packs and ships. All the freaking orders himself, uh just a kid with a dream. Uh so definitely show him. Some love don’t even have an affiliate relations, not even affiliate links, like i usually say just just uh, definitely worth supporting um. Some of this stuff is going to be out of stock because everything’s freaking out of stock right now, and at least for now, this redux esc is two or three months out, because he can’t order fets, because there’s a global chip shortage. All i can say is good luck check. The links in the video description do some googling and do the best you can. But if you do manage to use the links in the video description, some of them are affiliate links and i get a small commission if you make any purchase any purchase, not just these things after clicking those links, so just click those links.
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