How to Take Better Drone Photos | Settings & Editing Tips
We are here in mexico. I brought my drone with me and i’ve been taking some incredibly cool pictures. I’Ve got some great tips and tricks for getting better photos from your drone. So the first thing we want to do is make sure we choose the correct settings for the drone itself now i’m going to use a dji mavic air 2. i’ve got my controller set up with my phone here. The drone is here on the floor, pointing at something black that’s, why you can’t say anything, but we need to make sure that we’re shooting in jpeg as well as raw. So we can work with raw images on our computer. So we want to make sure first that we are in photo mode. It might default to video mode let’s go to our photo mode. There we go and then here on format on the bottom right, we’re going to make sure we choose j, plus raw that’s, going to be jpeg plus raw and, of course, depending on your specific drone. These buttons might be in a slightly different place, but generally you should have the ability to shoot with jpeg and raw now here’s a little bit more important. We want to make sure that we’re exposure bracketing our images, so we’re going to go to our photo mode and then right down here, we’re going to see aeb, which stands for auto exposure bracket, and you can see you can choose between three and five now.
What this is gon na do is take multiple different photos at different exposures. That’S gon na allow them to combine later in software, which is what we’re about to show you how to do now. I recommend using the highest setting you have available in this case. It is five so i’m going to choose five for the photos. We’Re gon na edit in just a second that are actually included with this tutorial. You can download them right down below if you want to follow along. I had it set to three, but you can still see great results set to three so that’s it with the camera itself, you’re set to shooting in raw and your auto exposure bracketing and it’s gon na really help you improve the dynamic range of your images. So now that we have our camera settings out of the way let’s go ahead and take a look at some photos. I recently took here in puerto vallarta, mexico, so i went ahead and auto exposure bracketed these images and, as you can see, the first exposure here is what we would call properly exposed. The next exposure is underexposed and the next exposure is overexposed and, as we can see, my shutter speed is what’s changing. So my first image, my shutter speed speed is at five seconds then we’re at 1.3 seconds and then we’re at eight seconds now. The reason my shutter speed is so long is because i’m actually using a neutral density filter on top of the drone let’s go ahead and just get my sidebars moved away i’m in lightroom classic to edit these images by the way so we’re using a long exposure Which creates a little bit of these trails for our water, but we can see the dynamic range of these images isn’t that great i don’t have a lot of detail in the highlights or in the shadows, so that’s.
The whole reason why we exposure bracket our images now is the time in which we improve the quality of our drone photos and it’s. Very easy to do. All we have to do is start by selecting our images. In this case, i shot three but, as we just saw in our settings, you can do up to five and that’s the dji mavic air 2.. Your drone’s going to be a little bit different, so we’re going to go ahead and select all three of our images. These are raw files, we’re going to right click and we’re going to go to photo, merge and then to hdr. Now, what this is going to do is going to take the dynamic range from each of these different photos and combine them together to basically improve the entire dynamic range of your camera. Now, in this case, we are getting some really interesting artifacts here, as you can see, where the photos don’t exactly line up together, that’s because there’s movement in each one of these photos. So what we need to do is go to where it says: d ghost amount. We need to go ahead and start off by clicking on low and what that does. Is it chooses the best exposure that’s actually going to give me the detail that i want? If that doesn’t work well enough, you can go over to medium and then to high. If you need to there, we go, looks like medium.
Pretty much got rid of everything you can go to show d ghost overlay, and this is going to show you the area that it’s only using from one photo. The rest of the image is going to be a combination from all three there we go, so you can see it’s aligning and it’s changing my settings automatically, so let’s go ahead and click on merge and now it’s going to take all three of those photos and Combine it together so it’s going to have more dynamic range than any one of those images did by itself. So let’s go ahead and take a look at the results. This is my hdr. You can see it automatically tagged it as hdr and, as i zoom in, i have perfect detail in the highlights, as well as the shadows now let’s go ahead and compare that to our properly exposed image i’m just going to click on both of these images and Hit c for my compare mode: let’s, just move that off to the side and i’m going to go ahead and switch these, so this image on the left hand side. This is a single exposure straight out of the camera and my image. On the right hand, side is my hdr now let’s go ahead and take a look at these rocks. You can see the highlight values on my single exposure are a little bit too bright and the shadow values we don’t have much detail as well compared to the image on the right.
This is the hdr. We have a lot more information that we can work with. In both highlights and shadows, and even without any real changes to the image you can see, the image quality as a whole looks much greater. We have basically the same image, but it looks like our dynamic range has increased, which in fact it has now you’ll also notice that it took our sharp exposures from each of the different images and combined those together to create an overall sharper. Looking image this image on the left is a little bit has a bit of motion blur because we shot it five seconds, and here this image on the right is a little bit more freeze frame while retaining all of this beautiful detail from the long exposure. So, even when you zoom out, you can see, we’ve got a lot more to work with on the image on the right now, let’s go ahead and edit our hdr so i’m going to grab my graduated filter here in lightroom, classic and click from the right to The left and we’re just going to bring our exposure down a little bit the reason i’m doing this is to draw more attention to the center of the image i’m. Also going to grab my brush tool. Let’S make a very large brush and i’m going to just simply paint in this area. There we go and make this area a little bit darker as well i’m, just adding a little bit more visual interest to the by photo and overall just a little bit.
More contrast, because i want my focal point to be here in the center we’re going to go ahead and grab our radial filter, let’s click and drag that out there. We are and i’m just going to invert that and then we’re going to increase the exposure of this just a little bit. This is going to help add a focal point to the image as a whole. These, like waves crashing on the rocks, i think, looks really interesting. Let’S go ahead and close that down and i’m going to bring up our vibrance just a little bit and there we have it. Let’S go ahead and remove our sidebars, and here we can see our image beautiful. Full quality photo from a drone. If you guys have your own tips and tricks for drone, photography and editing, let me know in a comment down below and if you want to see more videos on drone, photography and videography. Let me know that as well, because i am having an absolute blast thanks. So much for watching i’ll learn you later bye.