Fixing bad soldering
Today, I'm gon na take a look at what happens when soldiering goes wrong. I'Ve done a couple of videos on how to solder and how to solder properly the gear you need the techniques and so forth. So you can have a look for those do a search or prop. If I remember I put links in the description of this video, but I probably won't so you just have to go in my channel and search for soldering and you'll come up with those videos. Well worth watching those, but I want to show you today, because not everybody has watched those videos or not. Everyone has the right gear. Sometimes people will give it a go and the results they just don't work out too well, and this is one of those occasions now. This was dropped into me on the weekend. It'S an example of what happens when people have good intentions, but really get it wrong, and so we're good here is a flight controller it's one of those set a may take one I'm, not sure, but it is a flight controller and the guy that owns this. Obviously tried to solder some wires onto it, but it was a bit of an epic fire. What we're gon na do is take a closer look at what went wrong. We might also try and see if we can save it at the moment. It doesn't work, it's and I'll have a feeling. I know, what's happened, we'll have a look I'm going to would be able to find out.
We take a closer look here, but, as you can see down here, the soldiering attempts here lists then excellent and there's been a bit of scratching and scraping because I think he's realized he's made some mistakes on the other side. Even these the big areas. Here though, this is, this is quite an easy, soldering job, but again it's just new, and he said to scratch away here: cuz, apparently the solder bridged, and if you watch my videos you'll know the reason solder bridges is because there's not enough flux, you've used too Much heat for too long, the flux has bent out of the solder and the solar becomes long and stringy and spiky, and instead of just balling up and making nice shiny blob, it tends to. When you pull your iron away, it pulls away a whisker and that whisker can go across or you've got two bits like this they'll join together. Instead of being nice and separate it's, not good, and over here you can see. You know this side of the board. Have been even here, we've got, issues like the installation is all melted here. Problem is he's, probably used too much heat for too long, but it's the other side. I want to look at because that's, where I think the problems happen now. The symptoms on this board are that the board works when you plug the USB connector in lights, light up and it talks to the computer, but it doesn't work from the main from the power.
Once you remove the you speed, the board goes dead and I think what's happened there is that the the power supply cuz. Normally this is your your lipo voltage goes in here and then it goes through a regulator to drive this chip and also provide a voltage output for your servo rails here, if you're using servos, and what I think has happened is that down here, I'm gon na Try getting really close for mackerel in see if I can spot what's gone on now. This is really quite difficult from a filming perspective, because everything's really close to the camera lens here and I'm trying to see through the LCD screen. But if we look here, you see these little whiskers. You know my knife in here to get a better angle. I can preps move some of them and see the little wiry whiskers here that are probably you can see them in this under the knife blade here. There'S, a whisker of wire and there's another whisker of white. You see that one there. So what has happened is he's pushed the wires through the board there and they've actually splayed out, then he's tried to solder and unfortunately, it's shorted out here across. This is the negative. This is the positive, and I think what's happened is that one of these warriors has shorted the positive and negative rails, and that's meant that the regulator that's supposed to take our lipo voltage down to the low voltage to run all the electronics and down to 5 Volts for this rail here hairs, popped, that's, put too much load on the other story.
Gliders stopped working may have damaged it. I can actually see quite often this little chip here, nor is it you're. One of these little chips will actually physically go bang. If you overload them, they blow out little chips blow out of them. I can't see it here. So what I'm gon na do is actually obviously I'm going to clear all this out take out all this stuff get rid of these whiskery wires. Do it properly, hopefully, I'll be able to show you how to do it properly as well, and then maybe it's just a temporary load on the past by maybe, if we get rid of the short it will come back to life, I really hope so but I'm, Not particularly confident with this down here see, this solder shows too much heat for too long, and all the flux is burnt out and also the wires burnt tend before they're put through. Obviously, these wires, if they were turned they won't, tend very well because, instead of pushing through a single tinned, why? Where all the little strands are all held together by solder, obviously they're all separate and that's, where things can go terribly wrong and you can get little shorts across the board like that. So yeah and I read listen you can see. The effect of the heat is used a lot of heat on the other side, because the iron wasn't hot enough so he's had that on for too long and it's created too much heat, which is caused.
The issue of the whole thing getting overheated and not being very good at all. If I can get back in here, so there yeah the rest of the board doesn't look too bad at us. Any other major damage no popped bits, but we're, just gon na have to go through clean this up see if we can do it properly, make it work. Let'S cross our fingers. Okay I've done my very best to clean this board up as much as I can. Hasn'T come out too bad on the top here over on the other side over here. Try get the shine, get the glare off that, but had to get a lighting go in here, because this is all a little bit how you go and try get some bit lighting. Yeah there's been a lot of overheating of these pears, but they're still stuck so that's, not a bit. However upside down here, one of the pads has been damaged because it's been overheated when the original soul ring was done. Fortunately, fortunately, there's no connection on this side of the board to that hole. So we consulted to the topside, and hopefully we'll still have the connection going through via the other side there, so I've just sort of taken off the wires that were there clean, and I haven't bothered sucking it in solid from the holes, because these are already pretty Dubious in terms of the amount of heat they've had poured into them.
If I want to make them any more likely to be heat damaged now, I'm, just going to try and solder the wires back on we'll see how we go okay. So what I'll do now is, I will reattach the main power feed over here and then we'll see if we're getting over there on those two pads. Then we'll see, if we're getting any voltage appearing over here for the same thing lights up now that hopefully we've removed the short circuit. Sometimes it depends on the design, but these these back regulators. Sometimes, if you short them, they don't blow, they just shut down depends on how they set up this mode blow. It may just shut down with the extra load time to find out. Okay, the first step in any job like this is to take a little bit of the insulation from the end of the wire. I, like a nice, sharp hobby knife here, actually because you can just if on silicon, while you can just peel that away and get a really good and I they give it a little bit of a twist. I think a bit of an Oliver there and do the same on the other one try and keep them even okay. Hopefully this in the shop, because I cannot see the viewfinder of the camera and that's it now. The next thing is, you got to make sure using the right tip on your iron, this tip here, it's fine for for a circuit board work but it's, just not heavy enough to do these wires.
That won't transfer the heat fast enough. So we just pull out a bit, so you can see what we're talking about here blurry on me. Why don't you okay good! So what I'm gon na do is I'm, just gon na change the tip to a one that has a large area on the end and that will transfer the heat more quickly. Make the solder make the joint warm up more quickly. Therefore, we're not going to get any damage occurring to things so here we go and whisk it yourself, good iron, since the hakko iron, brilliant, not soft, flexible anyway. I said my other video. So what you can see here we pull in the game. You see the difference in these tips. As you can see, this is the tip I've just but it's quite a big flat area at the end there for transferring the heat as quickly as possible. This is the tip I took off so much smaller. It is so, although we're dealing with exactly the same number of watts on our soldering iron in the same temperature, this will transfer the heat far more quickly, which means we don't have to take as long and one of the secrets to good soldering is speed, because The longer you keep the heat on the eye and longer you keep the the solder hot, the quicker the flux ball is there and then you end up with horrible result. So I just put that away and we'll turn it on warm it up.
Okay, you're gon na need some decent solder as well always get the good solder, not that horrible tin stuff get the decent lead solder. You know none of the hippie stuff right and so then you need to make sure that you've got these twisted so that all the strands there's no strands poking out. That will ruin your day. If you have a strand poking out and then you need like seven hands but I'm old school of this I've done this before I don't need seven hands. I just need to keep trying the viewfinder a little bit of solder on the into the iron to help conductivity, and then you need to heat the wire and feed the solder in at the same time. Yep here we go. I should have my glasses on because I can't see what I'm doing then give it a bit of a twirl there. We go so now this piece of wire. All the strands are held together by the solder that has whipped in there. So it's like a solid piece of wire. I just do the other one, this time up with my glasses on, so I can see what I'm doing, because it'll make it much easier for all concerned once again bit of solder on the iron to get the heat flowing, and then it should. I took my meds today so I'm, not too bitter she's a bad day for the old Parkinson's. I got ta say doing pretty good alright and it would be easier if I could keep my head out of the shot.
Damn it look here, we go. I'Ve done a really crap job with this because I'm more focused on filming than actually doing the right job said that yeah that's, not very good I'll, just put a bit more solder on because it needs it hopefully, I'm still in shot. Here we go it's a bit bitter right and already you can see that we're getting whiskers see the solders were screwing, because I have used up all the flux, not too important just a moment because I'm not putting it on a circuit board with it. So now we need to get our circuit board here. This is our board and we must turn the pads that we're going to solder to the story got something already got some solder on those pads cut I'm gon na turn. It again because get some fresh solder with fresh flux on it, and we want that all set to go so put a bit on there and again gon na be pretty quick there we go that's a bit as quick as you want to be, because those cares Will get too hot and they will lift up if we're not careful. Now I just need to take the set a shot to make sure I know which one is which okay negative is on the slide, and this is actually a little bit long, but it'll do I don't put the positive one on first. I think this just put the positive one on and again, if you go all those many hands, things will move into shot a bit more cuz this computer.
If you got one of those many hands things, that would probably be a great idea to use it, but I don't have one of those because I'm old school let's see now you don't have to add an extra sorry. You just have to sweep this down like, so I just switched it onto there and the same goes for the one next to it. You'Ve got all the solder. You need there already. If you start adding more solder that's when you start getting things running together and not working very well, so just add a bit of heat and it will flow. We go that's, probably good enough. Very good it's, not my best work, it's, not my best work, but it will do for the purposes of testing this sport out. We don't need to do anything else. We need to actually put some power on here, but unfortunately, this guy uses a Deans connector. Yes, this is back to the 60s or 70s, but we'll find a Deans source of power and we'll see if it works right. Here'S the moment of truth, let's see if the little lights will light up, then if it will go get my I'll actually try, keep this and shot. While I fiddle around five four three, two one whoa look at you. Can you see the lights go on? I think we've fixed it. Yes, so what I've done here? Obviously, that short was holding down the pass by now it seems to be working I'm sure the owner of this will be super pleased.
So what I'll do now is I'll put the other connectors back on and hopefully we've saved the day. So there you go that's why soldering is important if you get it wrong, you can unfortunately – and I think we damaged this – it survived a good design it's. Simply the short circuit on the output of the regulator cause the regulator to shut down, so it didn't work. But when we took that short circuit off, we we cleaned the board up, it all came back to life and hopefully it still works. I'Ve got to terminate the there's a GPS here and then there's this lead, I don't know I should have made better notes of where these wires went, but really seriously I'll talk to the owner and we will solder it up when he comes back. Make sure we get everything we weren't supposed to go and hopefully be happy man yeah, so key things go and watch my video on how to solder. It will save you from making a mistake like this, but bottom line, quick essentials and decent soldering iron don't use a crap soldering on this whole thing is only as good as the weakest link and there are links. This is the first part of your link. A good soldering on the hacker is a fantastic investment, but you can get things. Temperature controlled cheap ions that will they'll do the job, but seriously no one ever regrets buy good quality tools and when it comes to soldering irons, it's a bit hard to go past the hack, oh it's, just it's a it's, a fantastic piece of kit.
The other thing is some solder decent sold. This was sent to me by a viewer, and I really appreciate it fantastic that they send me this, because it was a bit hard to get over some decent silver and New Zealanders kissed a solder, and it is an alloy of lead and tin. Don'T just use the tin solder I've done a video on that only hippies, use tin solder and look what it does to them. No fun at all and the other thing is: it helps to have some nice tools, good side, cutters. Someone send me these two amazing I'm, just so impressed with helped people watch the videos and they send me stuff that I find really really useful. So if you're, the guy that sent me this you're, a bonds of like and even something like a modelling knife for stripping insulation, can be really really useful. You get a proper insulation strip of it I'm old school. I was brought up using half time, just my fingernails or knives, and you just get into the hair. But now I don't use wire strippers at all. Actually they ya know it's just another tool to lose on the bench and, of course, some flux. You don't need flux, it's, not essential it's, not critical. You can live for many many years, I've sold about flux. I flux now because it helps on some occasions, but you don't it's, not an essential, but if you, if you can afford it, buy some and get some decent flux, this is a kiss to product will kiss to make a little bit stuff.
This is a hash. 233, one zid exits. The best flux I've ever used that so, if you can get that it's but hard to get hold of this one there's a lot of rosin core fluxes and things which are really so good, this is just a brilliant, oh good. The still printing lift when this goes, I don't know what I'll do there. You go thanks for watching if you like this video, give it a thumbs up, always helps with the engagement and to the comment section. If you'd like to comment – and perhaps a little bit of feedback would be quite nice now, if you have trouble with soldering, if you find that your soldering is just not as good as it could be, perhaps not as bad as this was. But if you do have trouble, soldering tell me what it is that you find most difficult and I'll try and perhaps do a video to come up with ways to improve how that works. You know, hey can perhaps get around those problems.