The folks at purger were kind enough to send me this unit and i will go over the specs, as you watch me unbox and set it all up confusing name aside. This ender 3 s1 is a big upgrade from their ender 3v2, while the ender 3 has become the go to for makers out there. Looking for an entry level 3d printer. There is also quite a lot of things that i normally tell people they should upgrade if they intend on sticking with this hobby. Well, this ender 3 s1 checks just about all of the boxes being delivered to you as a great machine right out of the box. While it has a very similar feel to the ender 3v2, the majority of the design is pretty different, along with a different looking base and overall frame here are just some of the things upgraded from the standard ender 3v2. First of all, it has dual lead screws and dual z motors connected to each other via a belt. This is a major upgrade since having a single lead screw can really lead to quality loss over time on the machine. Next up is that it comes stock with their cr touch. Bed leveling, which works the same as a bl touch for anyone familiar to it. This is also huge for anyone new to 3d printing since getting that bed level can be one of the most annoying things. For first time makers, the bass takes full sized sd cards rather than micro, which i know is preferred for many people.

It also has a usb type c connection, bringing it up to date and easier to work with the build plate is a magnetic pc spring steel, and the magnetism on it is great. This build plate is a huge improvement over their ender3v2 and makes it very easy for parts to stick and extremely easy to remove them with a quick flex. And then, when it comes to the biggest improvement of all, it has what they call a sprite direct dual gear extruder. This is the most upgraded extruder that ive seen on a creality machine and its as if they heard all of my complaints about their other machines. They make on the market today. This extruder has a 3.5 to 1 gear ratio, dual drive gears and a very small gap between the heat brake and the extruder itself. This means you should be able to print flexible materials fast and extremely precise, similar to that of a hamara. It also has a light pancake stepper motor meaning it should be able to move and accelerate at higher speeds than a similar setup with a heavy step promoter. Since this machine is now direct rather than bowden now it advertises a max printing temperature of 260 degrees, which leads me to believe that hot end is not all metal which would confuse me a bit considering the setup. So after some tests i show later in this video i actually disassembled it now. The extruder part is great, very compact and well designed, but it does seem that the heat break area has a plastic tube in it.

This would confirm that its not all metal and why it cant reach any higher than 260 degrees im, not quite sure why creality didnt go all the way and have this be an all metal hot end as well, but im not going to really complain too much. Since this extruder is an amazing upgrade actually when looking at crealitys website, they do have a sprite extruder pro, which is an all metal version for this for high temp printing. It would be nice if this was included on this printer, but were talking about the baseline machine here i am hoping that creality starts, including that extruder setup on future machines. This extruder and hotend are all connected via a breakout board, which is huge for both cable management and for easy swapping. The cable management on this is perfect, since you just connect a thick ribbon like cable from the base of the printer, without any worry of individual cables. Along with these amazing advancements over the ender, this machine also has a filament runout sensor. Power resume function, belt, tensioning, knobs storage, space in the base and a 32 bit silent board. Just like that original ender 3v2. The lcd screen has been tweaked a bit and now has a timeout where it dims after five minutes of inactivity. All of these upgrades and it costs 4′ dollars, which is 160 over the stock. Ender 3v2 links to purchase, are in the description down below, but lets see if its worth it now its time to get into the printing test right off the bat.

I already like this extruder since its very easy to manually feed filament very easy to compress the idler and feed filament right in these. First tests are done in polyterra pla, and they are just the included files on the sd card. I print both the bunny and the cat. Neither of these prints are anything to write home about, but they did complete just fine and are acceptable quality. Remember that slicer settings do make a big difference in quality, so i wanted to go ahead and slice. My own parts, they included their creality slicer for this ender 3, s1 and anyone whos used it before knows its just a re skinning of cura. I still want to make sure and try out their slicer to compare it to my results. So i slice a benchy. Only with some minor tweaks from their standard settings, this benchy does have a couple of imperfections, including some minor bulging and a couple of layer holes where it started a new layer. So i went over to cura and set up a new printer, its very easy to do this, since you could just copy and paste the printer settings from the creality slicer, including the start and end g code. This first bench i sliced, seemed to be a bit uglier than the creality slicer, including where new layers started some bulging near the top and a couple of holes. Since this direct extruder has such a small gap between it and the hot end, it does require a bit of tweaking to hone in my next benchy came out much cleaner.

While it does still have some imperfections. I was moving in the right direction and getting my retraction settings dialed in i made a couple of further tweaks and then got to a very difficult test and thats the torture toaster designed by the great clocksburg. This toaster is meant to give a full tolerance test of tolerances and overhang ability without any supports its meant to be a mechanically moving part printed. All as one model, i went ahead and printed mine in red polylite pla. Now, when you look closely, there are a couple of imperfections near the top, and the underside shows that theres some imperfections on the build plate, but it all cracks into place with ease the gears turn the toaster pops, the toast out, the overhang angles did great and It was overall looking quite good. The only issue it failed on was the tolerance test here. It seems that even the large 0.5 millimeter doesnt move at all these are supposed to move up and down easily and mine are pretty much welded in place. This could mean that im over extruding a bit and i could benefit from slicer tweaks – perhaps slow down the acceleration a bit and maybe even reduce the line width by 10. And here is that re test of the clock spring toaster its definitely better than the last one, but im still only able to move the 0.5 millimeter on the tolerance test. It looks like i may need to do some e step checks alright, after this toaster test showed how precise the extrusion could be.

I get to printing in some flexible materials, since this has such a great extruder setup. This should be able to print tpu fast. First up was polyflex tpu 95 hf. This stuff should be able to print fast, even on a basic setup, so i run this at 55 millimeters per second for a vase. Now this first vase did complete, but didnt have the greatest layer adhesion. I noticed that when i try to print flexibles fast, i do need to bump up the printing temperature higher than is normally recommended, since i dont think that manufacturers expect these to be printed at these speeds, after bumping up the temperature to 15 degrees. Above what polymaker suggests, i get what you will see on the screen now after this i go ahead and print some 90a filament by spectrum 90a is pretty soft, and this stuff was not designed to print fast. So i once again bump up the printing temperature. This time to 20 degrees, above what the manufacturer recommends, i then print the vase at 55 millimeters per second once again – and here is the result – theres definitely some quality issues, but this is very soft and was printed without any issues. Im very impressed by this extruder setup, and it shouldnt give you any issues when printing soft materials all right now its time for the pros and cons on this printer, starting with the pros, this extruder is likely the biggest pro on this entire printer.

It is a major upgrade from the ender 3v2 and it isnt some basic direct extruder, its a really great setup. I would assume that an extruder such as this would be over 80 on its own, though i cant seem to find it by itself on crealitys website. They list their sprite extruder pro with an all metal setup, but it doesnt have a price that i can find this extruder setup is using a breakout board. Not only is this great for cable management, it actually means you can swap the tool head easily. This means you can actually purchase their laser engraver module and it should be an easy swap, really cool. It has dual lead screws and dual z motors. This really helps with print quality and longevity of the printer. This is definitely a major upgrade. It comes with an auto bed leveler another great upgrade for people new to 3d printing and would normally cost around 50. The build plate is great, really strong magnetism and i had zero issues with parts sticking and i never had to add any additional adhesives as brian at bv 3d inspected. The board has its power connections with ferrules rather than solder, meaning they are much less of a fire hazard. It has a type c connection and a full sized sd card on it, which are both welcomed additions. It has great strain relief for the build plate. I didnt even notice this until i was finishing this review, it was easy to assemble and it has all of the important upgrades that the standard ender3v2 has such as a silent board belt.

Tensioners, a filament run out sensor, powers, resume function and a very easy to use lcd screen and now for the cons, i noticed i had a bit of difficulty holding temperatures above 230 degrees. It seemed to fluctuate quite a lot. I assume a pid auto tune would correct this, but i didnt do one for these tests. I think i had a bit of over extrusion im, not sure if this was an issue with the e steps or not, because i didnt test it, but my first toaster test had some issues with tolerances. It doesnt come with that all metal hotend option of the sprite pro. Once again. I cant complain too much because this is the base model. Ender 3 and i assume theyre more expensive printers, especially the enclosed ones, will come with that all metal, hot end and really thats. The only cons i can personally see now when it comes to the price. Is it worth 160 dollars more than it costs over the standard v2? I say yes, if you want the cheapest printer possible to see if this is a hobby you want to get into, then you could go with the version 1 of the ender 3.. If you want a machine that will last you a while – and you wont need upgrades – then go for this, if you were to try to upgrade the standard ender 3 to have a similar extruder, add dual lead screws, a great build plate and a bed leveler youre Talking about well over 160 dollars likely over 200 and then you wont, get a breakout board and you will spend a lot of time.

Upgrading everything and updating firmware. I legitimately think i will be recommending this printer now as the best starter printer for the price. For those just getting into the hobby, i really like, where creality is going with this, not only the extruders on their machines, my number one gripe. They seem to be making all of this module with breakout boards and the ability to use different tool. Heads im looking forward to future machines to review by them that will have this extruder in the pro version, with an all metal hot end. If creality can get this right, then i think they will continue to dominate the 3d printer market for years to come. I can assume that an upgraded version of the ender 5 would likely become my favorite machine, assuming that its all done right, i say to creality to keep this up since i really like the direction. This is all heading. Thank you all for watching ill, be back soon, with further reviews, tutorials and fun prints. Before you leave, i wanted to show off the brand new version of my book. 3D. Printing failures, 2022 edition. It has been two years since i updated this book and this time not only have i made sure all of the chapters are relevant to todays market. I also made sure the paperback version has full color photos. This should really help, since the photo quality was the number one complaint from my past editions. I made it so that the first 120 pages, or so are meant to be read in order so that you can get a full grasp of 3d printing, especially if youre new to the hobby, and then i have a diagnosing failure section.

The goal is for you to compare my photos to the issues youre having and then direct you to the chapter that will help. You fix your issue. Best of all amazon, for some strange reason has decided to mark off the price of my book by 11.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SjSEDIiLiK0