DJI FPV Drone Setup – Live Sound – Prop Crop + Flight
It reminds me of the old p4 phantom batteries where they used to get a crack in them, and this one just got too much tension on it, and eventually it gets a little ding there. There is so much to charge here so i’ve got my charging hub here for the three batteries looks like it only does one battery at a time rather than all three. At the same time, then we’ve got the goggles battery don’t use this get one of these, which is an xt60 to a barrel connector, and then you can use a big 4s lipo you’ll get much longer use out of your goggles and then the controller up there. This is taking ages with the batteries individually. Charging. The controller is fully charged. The battery for the goggles looks like it’s almost charged, but look. It has gone dark okay, so in the hobby world anytime, we are messing with software. We take the props off so that if anything goes wrong, then they can’t spool up and injure you now, with this being dj, i’m sure they’ve thought of that, but it’s always a good practice to do so so to activate it. I’Ve got the goggles here and we’ve got the on the go: adapter that comes in the package and then i’m using the usbc cable. This will have to go into my phone and then we can only activate it. Using the dji fly app. Some people suggested that you can use the fpv series app on the computer to activate it, but you can’t it just recognizes that in the fpv codex vista and air unit mode, so we’ll have to go on to the app okay.
So here i am on my phone screen recording to turn the drone on. It is a short and long press of the bottom. It will make a funny noise. The way that it does, that is, it sends a frequency from the motors through to the frame bit like a record player. If you didn’t know that okay, so i’m, now going to plug in the barrel connector on here, this will start up, and it should say in here that it needs activating we’ve got picture from the drone there you go. It says that it needs activating in the fly app so let’s do that. Okay, this is the dji fly app and let’s plug it into the phone, see if it picks anything up. Uh, yeah, okay, okay, always allow it’s, allow agree, blah blah blah. Okay. If we need to log in next activate binding man, i tell you what they make. This look easier. Don’T they on like review, videos and stuff restart aircraft to complete activation restarting will take around 30 seconds. Yes, yes, yes, very good. Activation, successful done done. Dji care refresh that’s funny it’s asking me: do i want dry care refresh before i’ve done anything i’m going to press the x confirm? Oh that’s, not english! Is it? Oh now, it’s gone back to english excellent, well, there’s a firmware update, it’s unable to take off install so far after about five minutes. It’S done one percent. It says it’s going at half a meg.
Now to be fair. I am nowhere near the wi fi it’s. Just gone to zero kilobytes, maybe i’ll need to take it closer to the wi fi right i’m in the same room as the wi fi, still going pretty slow, half a mega. Second, nearly a mega. Second, oh it’s gone up to two percent excellent. Well, let’s. Just see how long this takes blimey – oh 99, firmware installed that’s how long it took go fly. Oh look at that that’s, the fpv feed out to the phone okay! So i’ve done all of the firmware updates on this guy. It took one hour and six minutes in total, which is a little bit excessive, especially if you’ve come home from work expecting to fly this thing before it’s dark, having never set it up before that’s an hour out of your day. Already one thing that i wasn’t able to capture was the battery firmware update. So when i turned the quadcopter back on and the goggles, it said that there was a firmware mismatch between the quadcopter’s battery that took about five minutes to do but anyways we’re, looking through the goggles here, i’ve just got a camera pointed through them. So quality is not that great, but it’s very difficult to show this otherwise it’d be nice if we had hdmi out wouldn’t it. So if i press down on the button there we’ve got the status of the drone and we don’t have any gps because i’m indoors.
Then, if i move down here, we’ve got the album, so you can watch back your footage. Then we’ve got the transmission settings. We have got this first option here, it’s interesting straight away. Isn’T it broadcasting off all that does as far as i’m aware is allow other v2 goggles that can connect to the drone to see what your fpv drone is seeing. It’S like audience mode but for the fpv drone and if you don’t have that on, then i guess it’s, not broadcasting, that in audience mode aspect ratio. Now. This is an interesting one. We’Ve got 16 by nine and then we’ve got four by three and you’ll notice. That we have gained vertical field of view. You can almost see the flat screen tv there, the bottom of it anyways. What we can do with this is. We can actually fly four by three mode and get that extra field of view, but the camera of the dji quadcopter will record 16 by nine still. So i quite like that you can do that. Another thing that we can do and a lot of people have complained about, is the props that are in shot. So we can keep this full four by three shot and then have it crop the props out of shot, but i’ll show you how to do that later, so my preference here would be to fly in 4×3 mode. Now, if we go down focus mode, i like to leave focus mode off.
I find it distracting you’re not going to be flying in any bandos with this guy anyways and if you go on to the high quality setting, i don’t think you need focus mode anyways. So i’m going to leave that off, but essentially focus mode same as with the air units and vistas. You get two lines of lower bit rate at the side and then it gives you sort of a window in the middle of a higher bit rate and you can see where you’re going but doesn’t look very pretty. I don’t think so. We’Ve got the channel mode here which is set to auto, but if you go to manual you can see that we have got the frequency here now, so you can either do 5.8 or 2.4 and it will lock to that so here’s. A reason why you might want to do that you see 2.4 gigahertz has much better penetration and range than 5.8 gigahertz. So if you’re wanting to do a really long range flight – and you might be limited say in the eu, if you lock it to 2.4 gigahertz you’ve got 100 milliwatt in the eu. Whereas you know you would have say 25 milliwatt in 5.8, which will give you less range so that’s something to try if you don’t want to unlock your drone and you know potentially break the laws. If you want to get more range out of it, then you will get a higher output on 100 milliwatts on 2.
4. But if you don’t do that, it seems that once it’s chosen the selected band, which is usually 5.8 gigahertz because you get more bandwidth with 5.8 gigahertz, then it doesn’t seem to change after that and that’s why people are getting short range so i’m going to keep This on auto – but you know if you want to play around with that – you will get more range with 100 milliwatt of 2.4 than you would 25 milliwatt of 5.8 gigahertz. So if we come back here, we’ve got some channels that we can select between as well but i’m going to leave everything on auto okay. So if i scoot across here and select audience mode, this is where you could look at other people flying the dji fpv drone, but i don’t know anyone else that has bought one so i’m not going to be able to do that anyways. But that is all of those settings there. So if i now press back and go down, we have got settings here. So if we go into safety, we’ve got a lot of stuff here. So we have got the altitude limit at 500 meters and you can’t go any higher than that anyways. In most countries the limit is 120 meters. So if we come down here, we’ve got flight distance there’s no limit on that. One and we’ve got the return to home altitude, which is 100 meters, no need to change that. Really, unless you know you know that you’ve got objects above you, then you could change that update the home point.
So i guess, while you are flying, you can press that and it’ll update the home point to where you are so obstacles slowing so yeah as with the mavics and also the phantoms, the object avoidance will not let you fly into the object. This one just slows. You down so i’m, not sure if that’s helpful, but there you go, it’s got it compass calibration. This is important to do anytime. You change area, and this is because, depending on the area that you are in, you will be getting what is called magnetic interference. So the quadcopter always has to know where north is, and that is because, when it’s hovering and much like the gps in your car, when you are stationary, it does not know which way you are pointing. So if it’s got a compass to say that way is north, then it knows where it is and which direction that it is facing. But if you have got something that is skewing that compass heading like i know a car or just you know, general things in the area that you live in and it’s calibrated wrong. Then it might not fly very well. You know, dji is usually pretty good. These days, you know having uh great compass settings, but i would always recommend doing that when you change locations, so we’ve got the imu calibration as well, and you make sure that you want to do that too. Now. This is an interesting one, find my drone not really sure it’s that useful it’s, just gon na play back the last flight that you did, but it doesn’t have like any gps information on it or anything like that.
So you know you could do exactly the same thing by going into your photo album. I guess. Okay, so we’ve got advanced safety features here and we’ve got air sense and what that is. It’S got a built in a dsb receiver, uh, so aircraft full size aircraft that have got an agsb transmitter when they come into your vicinity. It will warn you and then we’ve got emergency. Propeller stop! Does what it says on the tin i’m. Not too fond of this method, because if you enable it, then if you are doing a maneuver that requires all of the six down and inwards or outwards, then the thing will disarm in the air. But one of the problems that i have with this model is how difficult it is to disarm it. You can double tap one of the buttons when in manual mode to quickly arm and disarm it that only works in manual mode. I would love to have seen a dedicated, kill, switch and arm switch. So if i press back on there and back again so that’s all of those settings let’s go into control. So this is a remote controller and this is button customization, and this is where you have to turn on acro mode, because when you go into manual mode on the transmitter, it does nothing out of the box. I mean dji really doesn’t want you to do manual mode. I don’t think so. If we come down here, you see where it says manual mode.
You have to select that, but then there’s another thing you need to do as well. So yeah you can customize some of these other buttons as well, but i didn’t touch those if we go back to the top – and this is quite tricky to get at this one stick mode then enter now don’t be confused by it saying uh mode one. I fly mode one and there are other people out there flight mode, three uh. Let me just go over one more time to gain an expo. You see down there where it says limit m mode. You have to turn that off and then you’ve got full acro. So you know it just seems like there’s there’s, so much getting in the way when you want to fly manual mode now, if you take off in sport mode, you have to put the sticks in a certain situation before it will go into acro mode and then The thing’s going to be very fragile in acro mode, so it’s an unusual thing that they have done there. In my opinion, and then last one is rc: stick calibration, which you want to make sure that you do but it’s kind of speaks for itself that one okay, so led settings. So you can change various led settings: i’m, not too fussed about leds myself, it’s, not that important, uh, gimbal and pitch speed. Again, you know: you’ve got normal, fast and slow. I don’t really use the gimbal pitch speed with this one.
You are flying forward usually, and you using your own pitch to you, know pitch the model down. So gimbal calibration speaks for itself, not going to go through that coordinated turns in sport mode. This is a really unusual feature. I think the mavic air did it and when you are moving forward and put your in or rudder, then it coordinates the role or aileron at the same time. So you can basically just fly with the your and the pitch if you want to, and it teaches uh bad habits when flying though i’m gon na try it, though, why not units? Obviously you know you’ve got your options there camera. So if we go into camera, we have got camera preferences, and this is where you can set everything to manual now i’m going to keep it on auto. But you know some of the camera guys will want to mess around with that. The only problem is, if you’re in the air – and you have like a changing of the lighting conditions, it will stay as it is. So you know if you don’t know what you do with that it’s best to stick to auto so transmission quality. This is where i have it on high quality. You get a latency of about ‘ to 35 milliseconds, which is plenty especially for a freestyle model like this. The low latency goes to about 23 to 26. Milliseconds is really the blink of an eye to tell the difference with high quality.
I tend to find you. Don’T need focus mode either so video quality. Now this is something i found interesting, because the lowest fps you can select at the moment is 50 fps and that’s, not very cinematic. Is there there’s, no 30, fps or 24fps? I think that’s, probably something that i would expect there so got the options of mp forum marv as the file type uh gridlines just annoying. I i have those off, maybe some people like it center point. Sometimes people use this for racing. It just puts a cross in the middle of the screen, but again no, not my sort of thing that so this is it’s kind of like looks like a hidden menu but it’s just one underneath the format, the sd card it’s the advanced camera settings like a Lot of people have missed this in their reviews. You know so record with both the goggles or you know, aircraft you can do either or auto record on takeoff. So when you arm it, it automatically starts recording eis that’s, the electronic image stabilization. If you turn that off, then you know you haven’t got what they’re calling rock steady wonder where they’ve got that from real, steady rock steady, no can’t be it’s got to be a coincidence. Okay, so then we have got distortion correction now this. This is where this is where it gets interesting. So you can see that uh we can do aircraft and goggles aircraft only goggles.
Only so we’d want to do aircraft. Only now you can’t see what that has done because i’ve changed it to uh four by three mode, but what i can actually do. Uh let’s let’s just go back and find that other camera option. So if i go back into transmission and turn aspect ratio to 16 by nine, what you will see is it’s cropped. The props out of shot let’s go back to settings camera then advanced settings. So you can see there you’ll see the difference to what it does. So we can do aircraft, only the aircraft only crops that out but we’re seeing the props. Can you just see the props in shot there, but if it was to record, then it would record like that and then goggles and aircraft it records both of them like that aircraft. Only if we want the props out of shot, then we can still see our full fpv field of view, because you know field of view is currency. When flying these sort of things, any extra field of view, you can get the better. So then we’ve got goggles. Only i don’t know why you’d want that and then off that’s actually that’s, actually where it is out of the box, which is why a lot of the reviews have the props and shots, but you can actually just you know if we do both that does get Rid of the props, it gets rid of a lot of the field of view.
Actually, though, so you know, you have to make sure that you are choosing the right application for that i’m going to actually in my test, have everything off, but the way that i would have it is to just have the aircraft recording, and so you get the Props, out of shots on on your recording and then on your goggles, you can you know you can if you, if you need to you’ve, got that full view now sometimes it’s best to have the full view of everything and then crop it in an editor. But in this case, if it is recording 4k 60, then you might want 4k 60 with the props out of shot, whereas you’d have to crop in a little bit so yeah it’s kind of good. For that. I just don’t know why they didn’t design the quadcopter to have the props out of shot all of the time that’s what we do in the fpv hobby side of it we’ve got image roll correction, so it just seems to be like more distortion that it’s getting Rid of because i’m still getting rolled so it’s, not like roll correction of the quadcopter. It just gets rid of more field of view, video format it was set to h.265, but i’ve selected h.264, so color uh you’ve got natural and then cine log d, cine log. I think that was saying and uh yeah i’m just gon na go for natural, but yes cine log it’s, so that you can like color grade it and and stuff like that.
Anti flicker i’ve got sector, auto that’s, so like the light. Frequency here is 50 hertz and in america, it’s, 60 hertz and hopefully it’s not flickering there. I think it is flickering a little bit that could be just because i’m pointing the camera down the screen. Uh, so we’ve got audio recording. Now i think a lot of people have missed this as well. If you uh put your headphones out of this, then you get live audio and that’s, something that hobbyists wanted from the air unit in the vista. You actually get that and it also records the audio as well to the goggles. So we’ve got anything else. We’Ve got reset camera parameters, uh. That is everything in there folks. So i did do a flight in manual mode with this guy, which i’m going to leave.