This is an aliexpress special, like the darwin 79 that i reviewed like a month ago. This is um, i don’t know a toothpick type of uh micro quad, but they really kind of didn’t really follow the design specs of the toothpick style for a three inch prop, and i think that they did a lot of compromising here, basically to get the cost. As low as possible, so for those of you guys are looking for dirt cheap stuff, i think this is supposed to be 59 on aliexpress, but, as i was checking prices, the price fluctuates kind of all over the map. I don’t really understand how i don’t really understand uh the mechanisms behind how aliexpress price stuff, maybe it’s by the different stores or whatever whoever’s selling it honestly i’m. Not an expert on that, but you’re gon na have to check the link, sometimes it’s higher, sometimes it’s, lower i’ve seen the price as low as 58 dollars and as high as 82 dollars, so it’s kind of all over the map, obviously, for even at the highest End of the price here for three inches too thick it’s, not bad, even around eighty dollars, obviously, for around you know 55 or 60 dollars that’s. This is a pretty decent deal, for the components just to you know have something to fly around in the three inch toothpick class, but you know basically to get the cost way down here, like this it’s, a series of compromises.

So let me just just go over what you get here. First, um 1104, 8 600 kv motors. You get a two and a half millimeter bottom plate x, style, toothpick, style frame, it’s, a single plate; um, you have a 20 by 20 stack, a 30 amp 401 esd ble s f411 flight controller and i think it’s the same flight controller that was in the Darwin 79, i’m. Pretty sure it is got all the plugs and everything get this canopy uh very thin and light. And then you have this uh cadex turbo, eos, 2. V2 camera. I think it’s the 16 by 9 version, not the 4×3 version, regardless it’s, an analog camera, not the best uh 25 millimeter video transmitter does not go any higher than 25 millimeter. 25 milliwatts. Sorry, 25 milliwatt video transfer no more power than that uh. It does not come with a receiver, so you have to add your own. I stuffed in a receiver right there. You can see it’s one of those like um Music, full speed, rc receivers like one of the v ones, not that great d8 receiver and not not the greatest range uh but it’s. It was small enough for me to stuff it in there. They did not really consider receivers in this design here. In terms of where to put the receiver, there is very little to no space for receivers. You have to find the smallest one you can to get that in there.

The vtx antenna here i secured with a zip tie to the canopy to kind of hold it in place with a little bit of heat shrink here, because it was just kind of flopping around and it will get chopped up by the propellers. If you don’t do that same with any other antennas here, if you have like a receiver antenna make sure that it is secure before you fly it as well as your battery connector here now i just kind of wrapped it around here like such um. Obviously, you probably want to zip tie it as well, but uh talk to you i’ll talk about why i didn’t do that here in a second rubber band that was originally on here broke on the first flight and luckily it crashed in grass and nothing broke. So i replaced the rubber band with my own rubber band here like this, and i actually mounted the battery sideways and i added this little sticky pad here. That was not included either yeah, so i would recommend replacing the rubber band right away: that’s, that’s, pretty weak and it’s going to break as soon as you have any kind of crash as well, and these rubber bands are fine, i’ll link down in the video description. How i mount these rubber bands here on these x style frames? I have a whole video on how to do that. It’S from like two or three years ago, pretty popular video but yeah people get confused on how to put this on.

For some reason. So i made a video about that now. They did some pretty weird things here in terms of their choices, so uh 1104 motors at 8600 kv not the best choice, in my opinion, limits you to chew us, even though they said that they can go 3s in this one. I don’t recommend doing 3s unless you uh want to have some problems. I didn’t even bother because 8600kv on a 3 inch prop on 3s for this little motor here is way too much. In my opinion, not even worth trying yeah it’s uh either the kb is wrong: uh. They think they can do 3s, but i’m pretty sure it’s right because even on 2s, i was getting a lot of oscillations prop wash when you do like certain kinds of dives and um power loops which you’ll see in the flight demo uh. They did some really bizarre stuff here with the way the esc works. You can see the motor wires aren’t soldered to those solder pads for the motor wires, but instead they have these like pins or something here from the esc to this um. This part here, which is like an led – and this is going to be hard to see, trying to get the camera right up there it’s just behind this little rubber band. You can see like that. I think those are pins. I’M, not exactly sure how that works. Maybe it’s soldered on, but regardless it’s a weak point and uh in a hard crash, that’s, probably going to break, but they i think they went with this because they wanted to use these little leds here and what they should have done is just and just gotten Rid of this whole thing here not even use this weird design and just run the mirror wire like normal and solder into the motor pads, and then it would be fine.

I think that in a in a crash you’re going to have problems, um that’s going to probably break at that point there. The arms are probably not going to break at two and a half millimeters it’s, pretty light, obviously on a really hard crash, it’ll, probably break and then you’ll have to replace the frame anyway. But if you do happen to break the solder joints here or the pins here at this point, you can just remove this whole led part here and then just use some extra wires, because this basically saw motor wires are soldered to this led board right here, lengthen Those wires and solder to the um esc’s motor pad or their motor wire pads right there directly and you should be fine as long as the frame isn’t damaged um but yeah that says i don’t know they. I mean, if they’re so concerned about cost. It seems like that is what is an unnecessary cost to add to these little leds, maybe like a buck each and they just create it’s, just an opportunity for problems later, and i wouldn’t have done that. Now they decide to go with a 20 by 20. Maybe because you know, if you happen to destroy any seaboard or a flight controller board, you can replace one or the other versus putting in all like an all in one board in here instead. But i would have just gone with an almond board just to save the weight and um yeah, just uh i’m, not sure that that was the best choice, the because of they went with this 20 by 20 stack.

The usb port is actually not accessible. I think it’s behind this uh canopy right here, so you have to take the canopy off to plug into the usb port to basically bind up the receiver, make sure everything’s working and do the betaflight setup and all that you have to take the canopy off. So that’s a that’s another design compromise. I think they made to go by with 20 by 20 parts, i think, which might be cheaper than the all one board – i’m, not exactly sure, but yeah that’s. Another thing that i don’t really like about this one, but you know if you can pick this up for 60 bucks, i don’t know i mean yeah it as long as you’re not crashing it. It probably will fly okay for a while now the pitching on here needs work. It needs more filtering because there’s a lot on power, loops there’s, a lot of prop wash oscillation but full throttle punch out, seem to be fine. You’Ll see that in the flight demo anyway, let me just show you how much it weighs and then we’ll get right to the flight footage all right. So this is what my ways with the receiver and everything in there it’s 56.7 grams and then with this is the batteries. This is a 2s um, 520 milliamp hour, gnb high volt to it’s, like 28.8 grams, so all together, all right, all together, we’re coming in at 85 and a half grams, so even on 2s it’s, well a little bit on the heavy side for uh three inch Tooth to class, although i think 90 grams, i think, is probably your limit, but you know that’s with a 3s battery and like a lower kv motor is what you’re probably looking for.

Ideally um. You know just for a better flight time and um better. You know flight characteristics, i think in my opinion, you want a lower kv motor versus a higher kv motor anyway um link down in the description. If you want to check it out, um fly’s fine, i mean obviously the long term durability is going to be an issue i think in this one. But if you can pick it up for 60 bucks, you know 65 bucks or whatever not too bad. You know, but i i wouldn’t this wouldn’t, be my first choice for a toothpick. I would just build one with a you know: there’s a standard. You know 1303 motor with a 3s battery. You know that’s pretty pretty much like the standard right now. I think i know there’s a lot of other variations out there. Some people say that, like a 1207 motor might be better but honestly, 1303 um, around 85 grams, i think, is the ideal weight for a three inch toothpick class. This is my opinion anyway, that’s good for this video here’s.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=alP8YawdSfk