The outlaw each country has their own rules about drones, but almost every country has this threshold of 250 grams, under which certain rules don’t apply to the drone. You can basically get away with a lot more with a lightweight drone, so of course that means you could just fly micro drones, but here at rotor riot we like to fly five inch freestyle drones, so i wanted to design a frame that was light enough to Fly under the radar, but still give you that 5 inch freestyle experience now this frame can be set up in multiple different ways, using different batteries, different prop configurations and even carry an action camera in certain configurations and still be under 250 grams. First though, unfortunately, we don’t have any extra parts laying around so we’re gon na have to pull this guy apart and put it back together. So your outlaw frame is going to come with a three millimeter bottom plate, a two millimeter top plate screws for the stack and standoffs and a couple of screws to mount. The standoffs you’ll also need four motors, and we have two different kv variants, depending on whether you want to go with a 4s battery or a 6s battery we’re going to have the 1700 kv motor for the 6s or the 3000 kv motor for the 4s. We are using the seal racing, toothpick flight controller esc all in one combo, for this build to save as much weight as possible you’re getting an xt30 lead with just the right length of wire.
Everything in this build makes a huge difference in weight down to the props down to the amount of wire length and down to the amount of solder you put on. Every single gram counts in this build because i put it as close to 250 grams as possible. Any little thing that you do on this build might put it over 250 grams. You might have to take something off down to the amount of tape that you put on the arms to hold the wires down so we’re going to go over everything and try to do the best we can to keep it as close to 250 grams as possible. This frame uses the sharkbite digital hd system so that we can have a nice beautiful, hd video signal on a very, very lightweight frame. One of the greatest things about the sharkbite system is that it’s insanely lightweight. So this is actually a shark bite that i’ve already mounted an axia antenna on and put it through the 3d printed mount you want to loot. You want to use a little bit of goop right here on the connection that’s, why i haven’t taken it off, because i don’t want to have to redo that glue. The little goop right here keeps this from popping off when you’re flying around and crashing into stuff. The sharkbite system also comes with a run: cam camera and i’ve already mounted up the 3d printed mounts in a in that configuration you’re going to want to do that as well.
Ahead of time, i have multiple different 3d print mounts for different action cameras as well. I’Ll have one for the 360 go one for the insta360 go 2 and for the smo camera from beta fpv. So depending on which battery configuration you go with. I have three different battery options that i’ve tried with this system. I’Ve run the 450 milliamp hour 4s battery by tattoo, and this 450 milliamp battery by tattoo is perfect for an action camera. It allows you just enough power to have a nice, three or four minute flight. With an action camera like, we would in a regular fpv flight of our typical five inch drones. The 650 works with some configurations that are a little bit too heavy. For example, if you built it just a little bit too heavy, you can use a 650 milliamp hour battery instead of the 850 that i used for the non action. Camera build and that’ll make up a couple of grams. If you need it, the sharkbite system comes with a capacitor and you can either use this capacitor or not, depending on whether you need to save a gram or two it’s, a good idea to use a capacitor. I totally recommend using the capacitor, because sharkbite recommends it for voltage. Spikes and it’ll keep you from actually damaging your vtx. If you get a really hard voltage spike we’re going to be using the rxsr receiver from fr sky in this build, you can also use a spectrum receiver as long as it fits into the same size and weight configuration in order to use crossfire, you’ll probably have To use their lighter weight antenna on this build because the immortal t is going to be a little bit too heavy for this build on this build we’re going to be using the 3000 kv variant of the t, motor 2004 motor and that’s going to give us The right kv for a 4s setup, so there’s two different prop configurations.
I used in this build there’s, the jim fan, 5130 tri blade and the gemfan 5126 by blade prop the buy blade, props, actually weigh about a gram less than the tri blades. So if you need to save a couple grams, you can sometimes go with a buy blade. Some people, like the flight characteristics of a viability better. Some people like the flight carriers, would try blade better. These things were insanely fast and if you need to tame it down a little bit, maybe going down to a bioblade it’ll give you more of that regular five inch feel so the tools you need for this build are the 1.5 millimeter hex driver pair of wire Cutters, some solder soldering iron, maybe some tweezers, a little bit of heat shrink, some zip ties and a few miscellaneous screws that should come with the kit all right to begin. This build we’re going to go ahead and install the gummies into this frame because it’s a unibody frame. I wanted to make sure we didn’t get any bad vibrations into the flight controller. So i went ahead and designed it with holes in the frame that are perfectly designed to allow these gummies to go through, and that will help to isolate the flight controller a little bit more from the frame vibrations. Getting these little guys in is a little bit of a challenge, but it’s not that bad all right, just kind of push them through the hole be careful not to tear them.
I just kind of use the 1.5 millimeter driver to push it through from the back side and that helps just be careful not to tear it when you’re doing it be very gentle, so you don’t tear the gummy on the way through okay. So after you have your gummies installed, you can start to install the stacked screws. These are m2 stack, screws that are metal and you just kind of slide them through the gummy just like that, so the receiver is actually going to be going underneath the flight controller. So we’re going to want to put that on next. This little rectangular section right here is where the receiver is going to be mounted, and so this will be the front of the frame, and this will be the back of the frame so we’re going to take a little tiny piece of double sided tape. The smallest piece of double sided tape, that’ll actually hold it down to save weight and we’re going to mount this rxsr receiver right here. So the wires will go underneath. The bottom of the flight controller take a little tiny piece of tape. There we go we’ll. Just stick this guy down right about there pull these wires forward here, because they’re going to go under the bottom of the flight control board. All right! Now that we’ve got our receiver mounted, we can put our flight control board in place, we’re going to place it with the usb port facing backwards.
It’S really really tight, you’re going to have to have a really thin usb port. If you’re going to try to squeeze that in after the fact, if you’re using the xsr receiver from fr sky, we’re gon na be using these three pads here that are soldered for our power ground and signal lead all right. So this goes channel one five volt ground, so we’ll go ahead and hook our yellow lead over here and then we’re gon na have five volts in the middle and ground over there. So you want to go ahead and tin, the wires and tin the pads get a nice shiny, solder joint when you’re done Music, alright, so i’m, just inspecting my solder joints to make sure that nothing’s touching all these electronics are very small. So you want to make sure you don’t have any solder bridges, jumping any of these little tiny components together or the thing won’t work when you’re finished so now that that’s done i’m just going to go ahead and tuck these wires up under the flight control board. So that nothing is sticking out and it’s nice and clean there we go so the next step in this build is to go ahead and install the motors it’s, going to put one motor on each arm using the provided screws that come with the motors. So the shorter screws that come with the motor should be a five millimeter m2 screw just in case production changes over time.
Trying to let you know what these are and the m6 screw is what you’re gon na be using for the prop when you’re screwing these in make sure that these screws don’t come too far through the motor and touch the windings. The front of the motor is more vulnerable than the back of the motor because of these wires that are coming out here. They do pass right over the screw holes and, if you’re, not careful, you can damage these wires here. These screws here should be the perfect length to where i don’t have to worry about it, and i can tell in the back here, because i don’t see the screw popping through the back of the motor here, which means that the screw is not going to make Contact with any of the wires, so what you want to do is go ahead and just get these screws in kind of loose. Once you have all four screws in, then you can torque them down, but don’t go too crazy when the screws are loose. The motor is able to be moved around a little bit and it’ll keep you from accidentally cross threading these screws since they’re, so small it’s really easy to cross thread them and it’s really easy to over. Tighten them just go ahead and tighten them down. Snug and repeat that process for the other three motors, all right, so the next step in this process is, we want to go ahead and cut these motor wires to length these motors on this particular build are already cut to length because i just took it apart, But when you’re building this you’re going to need to cut these motor wires yourself and i’m, probably going to trim a little bit of fat off of this build as well in the process, because these are just a little bit too long.
And i can trim a little bit of fat off of there a little bit of weight before i do that i’m going to go ahead and put some electrical tape on the wires to keep them from moving around and keep everything clean. You can either go crazy on the electrical tape like i did in our episode so that we didn’t end up chopping, the wires up with the props, or you can be very, very minimalist and save as much weight as possible, like i’m, going to do here so I’M, actually laying the tape out on the table and i’m going to end up slicing the tape into smaller pieces, so that i can conserve as much weight as possible i’m going to cut six total strips so that i have two left over for the antenna right Here on the receiver, we’re going to put two extra pieces of tape right here and here for the antenna we’re going to wait until later to do that, all right, so the next thing you want to do is just line your motor wires up, leaving a tiny Bit of slack on each one, these right here, these ones right here – are pretty much the perfect length. Some of the other ones that i cut are just a little bit long and i’m going to trim a little bit of fat off of those guys as i’m. Putting it back together here, you want to cut your wires to length.
This wire is going to be about four millimeters longer than this wire. This wire is gon na, be about four millimeters longer than that wire. Once you get your wires cut and trimmed we’ll go ahead and tin them up and solder them onto the flight control board. Esc combo everything board just gon na kind of push these wires down in place, make it look clean and we’ll move on to the next ones. So repeat this process for the other three motors trimming off as much fat as possible, but make sure you leave a little bit of slack just in case. You have to go back and do some repairs in the future make sure to clean your solder tip as often as possible. It keeps your solder looking pretty and shiny and fresh if you have any problems like this, where the solder pops up and creaks a little creates a little peak. Just go ahead and de solder, it and re tend both surfaces with fresh solder and you’ll get a much better result. Look at that that’s beautiful now. This particular flight control board ended up in the water in our episode of the outlaw. So if there’s anything that looks a little bit out of place here, it’s – probably not seal racing’s fault, so keep that in mind i’m, not sure if that’s glue holding that capacitor down right there or if that’s corrosion from being in the water pretty much. Everything was still working after this thing, dried out, so that’s, pretty good.
Testimony of this setup i’m not going to push these motor wires over into this corner. Yet because i still need to solder up my power and ground over here, so we’re just going to kind of leave these guys set aside like that in the meantime. So at this stage now i think we’re ready to go ahead and wire up our power and ground wires. Now i’ve cut these to about an inch and a half length. I’Ve got my positive lead just a little bit longer about four millimeters longer than my negative lead. So that way, when i do mount it up and i wrap it through the strap, it ends up being in the right orientation. Whenever you solder, these onto the xt30 connector round, means ground that’s a little rhyme that i remember to help me remember, which one goes on which side so the square lead is where your positive wire goes, and the round side is where your negative lead goes. You should probably use some heat shrink too, but to save weight. You know i didn’t. Do it it’s it’s fine! You got ta, look really closely because it’s really small and hard to see tiny negative right there, that’s almost microscopic you got ta. Have these really cool glasses to see it but that’s where the negative goes on the right and the positive goes on my left, so we’re going to go ahead and put our positive and negative leads on the board here in this orientation here, since this is going To have multiple connections i’m going to go ahead and put just a little bit more solder on the top to create like a ball that’s, going to help me to put the capacitor and any other parts that might need to have positive and negative connected to them.
I think i’m going to have three positives and three negatives on this particular board, so it’s going to create a little bit of extra solder on the top. So it’ll give me something to attach to later so now that i’ve got the power leads in place i’m. Going to go ahead and slide these remaining motor wires over, so that everything looks clean and tight and tidy, and pretty and beautiful all right. So this capacitor just barely fits in the frame. So, if you’re going to put this on, you have to be mindful of the fact that it could hit the prop if you’re, not careful, how you’re installing the capacitor like i said this is a step that i recommend. I’Ve only had a problem with these vtx’s shorting out on much bigger, builds uh like full sized five inch quads, but because i’ve had a couple of them go bad because we didn’t put this capacitor on i’m, going to go ahead and put the capacitor on this. Build just in case that way, i’m being ultra protective of it so i’m going to slide this capacitor up under the wires, so that they’re very, very close to their mounting point, because i need this to be as close to the arm as possible. The white stripe over here is the negative side of the capacitor. You need to make sure that’s on the right side when you’re putting it on so now, i’m going to use my tools here to get everything in place and just solder that guy on and then i’ll work on the positive section in a minute all right now, I’M, going to bend this capacitor over just a little bit without breaking it, get that positively, where i want it to be be mindful of the gummy, so you don’t end up restricting your ability to put another gummy on top of that gummy, because we’re going to End up putting another gummy on top of that one and make sure you’re not bridging anything else together.
At the same time, there we go that was fun all right, so now i’m, going to double check all my connections and make sure that everything is tight and clean and nothing is bridging out and i’m going to push this capacitor down. As far as i can get it to go without breaking off the wires, these wires are fragile, so you got ta, be a little bit careful with them, and i just kind of route. The power lead this direction and i might even put a zip tie or a piece of tape on this to hold it down in place once the bill is complete, so that way it doesn’t end up coming up and getting hit by the prop. So the next step we’re going to go ahead and put some zip ties on the arms to allow us to get these wires from the receiver mounted in place so that they don’t get chopped up by the props i’m, going to go ahead and put them up Through this hole here actually i’m going to go down through the hole, because i want the zip tie to exit on the bottom and we’re going to go ahead and also secure the wires in place at the same time, while we’re doing this. If you put the zip tie on in this orientation and you cinch it down, just right, it’ll actually come out underneath the frame, rather than on top of the frame kind of point it down a little bit towards the ground.
It’Ll help to keep it out of the props and then we’re going to run this wire up under these other wires and we’re going to heat shrink it to that zip tie. You can use the other zip tie to push it under if you need to, and that will help you get it underneath the wires. This is actually a method that i’ve seen joshua barwell do many many times and i’ve been doing it for a long time as well and it’s been my favorite method of keeping the receiver wires from getting chopped up by the props. So let’s go ahead and put that there cut the zip tie to the right length a little bit longer than your receiver wire and slide a piece of heat shrink over and shrink it down and repeat that process. On the other side, Applause all right – and so with our last two pieces of tape here, we’re going to go ahead and wrap them around the receiver wires here, just to keep those out of the way and keep them out of the props careful not to go Over your holes there or you won’t, have any way to mount your standoffs in the future. Okay, so the next step we’re going to go ahead and wire up the vtx or the sharkbite digital fpv system. Then the sharkbite digital fpv system has four wires that need to be connected, so we’re going to need a ground power, tx and rx.
Okay, so we’re going to use these four pads for our wires on our flight controller we’re, going to have ground tx6, rx 6 and positive we’re, going to connect to those four points with our four wires and then we’ll connect them up to the sharkbite system afterwards. So i want to go ahead and solder these up with the wires facing inward and the hardest one to reach is going to be the tx pads, so we’re going to go ahead and wire up the green wire to the tx pad. First, so get you some nice short pieces of wire here about that length and we’ll go ahead and tint it up and attach it to the flight control board we’re going to go ahead and put our blue onto the rx pad there. We go and our ground on the ground pad. The positive is a little bit more tricky because you have to try to get it. On top of that ball that we created earlier there we go now. We’Ve got our four wires on the flight control board. We’Re gon na go ahead and solder them onto the vtx we’re gon na attend these four pads right here. We’Ve got ground voltage, rx and tx we’re gon na put this in order from black red, green and blue, because blacks are ground red’s, our voltage green is our rx and blue is our tx and this one’s real fun, because right next to that, connector be careful On this last one, so you don’t melt that connector, not that we’re using it for anything, but it doesn’t always smell so good.
There we go. This is going to be positioned on the frame with the camera connector facing forward and the antenna facing backwards. But before we put this down, we’re going to need to put some gummies in between to space it up from the flight control board, we’re also going to want to put our camera cable on and our antenna wire, because if you put the camera cable on here, You can actually slide a zip tie up through the frame here and grab on to the camera cable so that it never comes disconnected from the vtx. So if you put this on there and squeeze it down with your thumb, just kind of get it lined up as best as you can. These connectors are very, very sensitive, but you get it. You can get it lined up. Just right, you’ll hear it! Click in place, when you have it right, just don’t push down too hard and break the connections. You’Ll feel it. If you get it right and then once you have that in place, you can put a little tiny, zip tie up through these holes. If you want to lock it down in place i’m, not going to put them on this particular bill, just to save some weight, but if you wanted to, you can run a zip tie right up through that hole. There bring it down here and cinch it in place. It’Ll keep this from moving out of place.
We didn’t have this camera connector come off so i’m, not too worried about it, but in some situations you might do a little more crashing. It might be a good idea to go ahead and have that zip tie in place for now i’m gon na go ahead and put the spacer gummies in between the flight controller and the vtx there we go so one set of gummies should be perfect to keep All the parts from touching the flight control board, because what you wan na, what you want to try to avoid is having anything touching from the vtx to the flight control board that might cause any vibrations. One set of gummies is the perfect distance to give me about two millimeters between the plastic connector back here and the usb port all right. So the next step i’m going to go ahead and put these four nylon nuts in place to hold our vtx and keep it from moving around. And then, after that, we’ll go ahead and put our standoffs on go ahead and use my 1.5 millimeter hex to go ahead and tighten these down don’t go too crazy. They don’t need to be super tight, but just tight enough to where they’re not going to come loose. If you tighten them too, tight you’ll be pulling the two boards too close together and then they’ll end up touching, like we’re trying to avoid just about like that. Now we’re, going to put our four standoffs in place with the four screws provided with the frame we’ve got four holes in the frame to mount our standoffs, one two, three, four, all right now, once we have our rear standoffs in place, we should be able to Slide our antenna 3d print right over top of the back standoffs and they’re locked in place, make sure to secure your ufl connector with a little bit of shoe goo or i don’t know, if i’d recommend hot glue.
Hot glue might damage the electronics on the board. But shoe goo works really good for this. It locks it in place. Some people use liquid electrical tape if you can’t find shugu, but i prefer the shugu just because it’s a little bit more solid when it’s dry keeps that connector from popping off when you’re flying around, because you don’t want to damage your vtx by not having an Antenna connected to it all right and since we’re on this step, we might as well go ahead and put our camera in place. Now your 3d prints are not going to be molded into this shape, yet they’re just going to be flat pieces of tpu you’re, going to have to kind of pinch them and bend them into this shape, and then once you have them bent like that and your Camera at a appropriate angle, you can just slide them over top of the standoffs, just like this slide, the camera down and it’ll just kind of pop into place. But before you push it too far down make sure you have your camera connector onto the back of the camera, just like this and snap it in place. Now. I also recommend putting some of this shoe goo on the back of the camera as well, because the one major problem that we’ve had with these is that these camera cables do come off really easily. So if you put a little bit more of that shoe goo on top of the camera, you’ll keep that camera cable from popping off and crashes and just slide it down like that, and it fits beautifully like a glove.
So the smo camera comes with this cable and if you want to be able to start and stop recording with the switch on your transmitter, you can actually wire this up to power ground and a uart connector with this yellow lead. And then, whenever you flip a switch on your transmitter, it’ll actually start recording by the flip of a switch it’s, really cool. I soldered this up to one of the pads and the flight controller. There we’re not going to use it in this, build just because we’re trying to give you a quick rundown on how to do the build. But if you want to go ahead and wire that up, you can hook up positive and negative. This yellow wire is going to go on the board right here, and this white connector right here will just plug right into the side of the camera and give you power for the camera and the ability to control the start and stop of recording. If, when you’re done with this build you’re just a couple grams off and you want to run an action camera, the insta360 go – is just a few grams lighter than the smo camera. Maybe you can make up a couple grams there by using a different action camera. So the last part of this build is to put on the top plate, and this top plate is different than what the final revision is going to be. The final top plate should have two holes in the top right here and that’s going to allow you to put a zip tie through the top plate to mount on the 3d printed mounts that i have created for different action.
Camera setups. I will have a 3d printed mount for the smo camera. I’Ll also have one for the insta360 go. The old and new insta 360 go will have both insta 360 mounts available in the rotorite store. If you want to pick those up, we’ll put these four screws in the top plate and i’m just putting these screws in loosely i’ll tighten them when i’m done. It helps me to line everything up properly. Sometimes, when you torque one down it, doesn’t want to line up to the rest of them. I’Ll put a final torque on all four of these don’t go crazy. You don’t make it too tight and the last little bit is to put on a little tiny battery pad and a battery strap and, like i said before, down to the battery strap every gram matters in this build put a little tiny piece of battery pad down To hold our battery, keep it from sliding around and our very lightweight battery strap. We got ta install our props and this build’s ready to go so you can choose from two different kinds of props. As i was saying before, you can use either the buy blade. Props or the tri blade props, depending on what your desires are for this machine and whether you want to go crazy or whether you want to fly long range. You can do a lot of different things with this quad and have a great time, and so these four props weigh approximately 13 grams altogether as a whole and the buy blade props only weigh 10 grams.
So you can save yourself an extra 2 grams. If you need them just by running by blades over tri blades, so these props have adapters. You have to put these adapters in first, if you’re going to use the m2 screws to mount them and they’re kind of a pain in the butt to deal with each motor needs two screws per prop. These are six millimeter m2s. I just kind of put the screw in there and turn the motor around until i find the hole and it makes it easy, we’re gon na put the battery on. So we can get the weight all right. So with no action camera and a medium sized battery. We are at 227., we have plenty of grams to spare with a medium sized battery with a larger battery it’ll be right at 250 grams, maybe a couple grams over or a couple grams under, depending on how you build it. I’Ve built them a bunch of different times and sometimes i’m one or two grams over sometimes i’m one or two grams under, like i said, it’s, depending on how how you build it and how stringent you are with wire lengths and the amount of solder you’re using The heaviness of your battery strap all those things come into play when you’re talking about how much weight this thing is uh, but anyway, with a 650 milliamp hour 4s, you should get a six minute flight time on this quad.
With an 850 milliamp battery, we were getting seven and eight minute flight times and with a 450 milliamp hour battery with a action camera attached, we were still getting three to four minute flight times out of this quad, so it’s really good, really efficient and you can Have a lot of fun with it. I hope you guys really enjoy this build.