This frame, in my opinion, combined with the right electronics and a series of 3d prints that I have completely designed ad hoc. Its something phenomenal., How the curiosity and the desire to try the new BIT2 was born was born a few months ago at the first fpv event in Cremona organized by the dronezine and our good DavideFpv. About this. If you havent seen the video of the day that Davide made Ill put the link and go and see it because, as usual, its fantastic and the MYFRAME guys presented some creations, including this frame, I was looking for a while of time of a 3 inch drone Maximum three and a half inches, because my idea was to have a drone small enough to be easily carried anywhere, possibly under 250 grams, but that was able to discreetly cover the three types of use that it could happen to me on a trip. For example, medium range kinematics crusing, and why not a bit of freestyle. Right from the start? The design of the BIT2 seemed to me ideal to start my purpose, and then I decided to try it MYFRAME very kindly. Provided me with the first prototype that you see here mounted, which had some details to fix and guys promptly gave birth a few days ago, the frame which is the final one that will arrive at home and that you see here mounted. Before seeing the final result. With my prints, lets see the frame in detail and leave this aside for a moment.

, As you can see from the unboxing video, the plates are supplied to us as per the MYFRAME standard vacuum, packed to preserve them at best. We then have a sachet with the kit of screws and standoffs, and, finally, another sachet, with the basic prints that mai frame provides you where you can find the classic rear antenna mount and classic camera mount.. In addition, I believe there will be the possibility of inserting hd cam support that we see here with the typical MYFRAME coupling compatible with the camera supports that you may already have from other MYFRAME drones. When the BIT will be available in the ONLINESHOP most likely. This accessories will also be included.. First of all, lets see how much the assembled frame weighs in its standard version.. We have a total weight of 47.6 grams and for a 3 inch frame. It is not the lightest. This is due to the fact that we have two fairly thick plates.. The bottom plate is 3 mm, the top plate is 2 mm and a half increased compared to the lets say prototype version that I had some where the top plate was 2 mm.. Regarding this, I would have perhaps made the upper plate with a thickness less than that of the prototype in order to lighten the whole frame a little. On the other hand, the thickness of these plates guarantees high rigidity and therefore better performance in flight robustness. In the event of an impact, Lets see how this frame is structured.

We have a DEADCAT configuration and therefore thought not to have both on the FPV CAM and on the HD CAM, the video props. We see a picture in the final version that the props obviously remain behind compared to the FPV Cam and the Cam HD, which makes us think that MYFRAME has thought the new BIT2 more for an audience that does cruising or Cinematic rather than freestyle. And this is because, in any case, the Deadcat configuration when doing freestyle, you need to have a bit of experience, especially on the movements of the YAW than mine. warning. They need to be softened up a bit.. I am used to working a little on the YAWs rates with these types of frames in order to soften this strong shift, this strong sensitivity they have on the Yaw.. So surely it is not a frame with this configuration suitable for beginners or unless you just do sweet lines, do not do tricks. You do not do anything special, then. Maybe it can still be used, but lets say that on average it is a frame that needs a little of experience. Lets stay on the lower part and see what is now fundamental and very important. We have in the Bottom Plate the possibility of mounting a double card Stack on the front side and one on the back, both 20 x 20mm.. We also see in the final version these two holes that allow you to diagonally mount a 25x25mm board.

This thing was designed to mount an ALL IN ONE board, a choice that, at this point, I recommend to further lighten our DRONE. Compared to how I did I, who have mounted a 20×20 stack, the rear 20×20 holes are ideal for mounting analog video VTXs or as if you have our good Caddx Vista digital system like me.. Another interesting thing in my opinion is, and is one of the things I liked right away these two reinforcements between the front and rear arms that strengthen or even more the structure make the frame extremely rigid. That is a look is a single body. Possibility of mounting, even this not obvious, but very important gem possibility of mounting both 9×9 and 12×12 engines and therefore excellent versatility, MYFRAME carbon quality, completely Italian carbon., The simplicity and completeness of this frame, combined with a reduced cost. Also calculating that the product is built in Italy and therefore arrives at home in a few days was the ideal starting point to create a series of customized prints that went to complete my needs. I explained video start., So lets go and see the definitive 3D prints that I made in detail lets put aside the naked frame. One thing I havent told you another very important gem compared to the prototype frame. I had there are these two notches that allow us to block the LiPo strap so that it does not slide back and forth, as in this case. Rear antenna support to be fitted directly into the stand offs.

In this case, we have a support for the new Caddx Polar antenna which has a diameter of 3mm mm. I also made support for standard antennas like those of the Nebula and for the 4 mm analog ones. Support for gps. You see it here. I also show it another series of prints. You see it here also with another color classic support support for gps type BN180. I chose this because the smallest on the market and as a value for money and weight is in fact ideal for this type of drone. Gopro naked support with cushioning system to avoid the JELLO effect as much as possible, especially if you have gopro 7 compared to The 6 – they are much more sensitive to this.. It is important for this support to print it with the right with the right percentage of filling that, in this case, I did at 50. This guarantees us the right rigidity based on the weight of the Naked Gopro. If we go to mount it on the support, it will not have to fluctuate in case of movements, that is, it will not have to tilt in case of movements, but it will have to remain with the right stiffness.. This means that it eliminates the JELLO effect, but at the same time, when there are rapid movements, it does not move the Cam more than it should., So with 50 filling. For all the other prints. In the meantime, I tell you I usually use fills that are maximum 30 35 max in order to lighten the drone prints as much as possible and, at the same time make them as soft as possible to cushion the impacts.

In my opinion, it makes no sense to make very, very full TPU prints that are really hard, so maybe in case of impact they do nothing but hurt us and break the frame. In case you have other cameras. I also made a support with the standard attachment where you can maybe connect the INSTA360GO or rather than a Gopro, Hero7 or Hero8, maybe without battery. In short, with this support, we say that everything is standardized a bit, obviously like all the others to be mounted in this way. Lets go to the FPV cam support ideal for micro type cameras such as the Polar or the Nebula Pro or the Ratel, but you Can also mount the Cam mini if you want, since the support is flexible, you can also tighten them a couple of millimeters for the mini.. As you can see in the support, there is also the fixing of the ImmortalT antenna. In my case, this is because, being a drone aimed primarily at Cinematic and cruising, I wanted to have maximum efficiency and safety, so the front mounting guarantees this no less important to have the The antenna on the front in the event of a crash, however, goes to Further protect the Cam, which is more important than the antenna itself.. This support was also created to eliminate the Jello effect of which, for example, the Polar that I mounted, but not only is very sensitive. About this. Look at the difference in this comparison on the recording of the DVR of the Dji Gooogles, with the standard support compared to this support that I have created.

, The drone is the same and Piddato the same way. The video was basically made a couple of hours apart from each other.. They look like two different drones and it seems that one of the two was not Piddato.. The Jello effect is dampened, as you can see here by this rigid core, and also by the fact that the cam literally sits on top.. Last but not least, by placing it on top. We have the same inclination as we have on the hd cam, which translates into a simple adjustment and solidity of the fixing.. The inclination is 12.5 degrees for both an inclination that I thought to have a top speed of about 50 60 km. H, then later it depends on the propellers and the engine that you are going to mount.. However, this is an ideal speed for most of the uses we want to make.. I share the 3D prints in my Thingiverse profile. You can also find the print settings. I leave you the link in the video description. As an assembly. The layout, I repeat, very simple, carried out with the head – allows us to carry out a very clean job without particular care. As you can see, I simply used this cloth tape to block the motor cables. I used the same cloth tape for the passage of the cable of the XT30 for the battery. The hole that Myframe has prepared here would be precisely for that and allows us to keep the Strap LiPo battery connection in a clean and fixed way in the new frame.

You have precisely the cutout and you mount it central as regards the wiring based on the components you have nothing particular to say in short., If you have an AIO stack, the wiring is even simpler and as regards the rear, gps connections, if you mount it and The antenna also in this way remain clean. The gps cable will pass through the hole I made for the support it will go into the FC I passed it over and also in this case, I used the duct tape to protect it. A little. I also took in all the cables that come out of the Caddx Unit to go to the FC.. As for the TBS receiver, I mounted it with a cable tie above the Flight Controller. In case. Like me, you have a Gopro naked to power. I have passed the power cable through this hole so that it remains cleaner and more fixed.. In this case, you will have to disconnect the plastic connector leveraging the white fins with a Cutter, remove it and then reassemble.. Otherwise, if you dont want to complicate your life in this cable, you can obviously go through this hole on the front and go all the way around like this.. Now let s move on to the recommended components. Then, as I mentioned before, I would absolutely recommend an all in one card, because our new frame supports it in order to simplify the wiring and further lighten the Drone.

In case you have at home like me, and you want to mount a 20×20 Stack. I recommend, for example, the new SpeedyBee or any stack that you find on offer. Since lately the prices have risen, but I would always be with an F7 CPU. Like VTX. If you dont have a digital system like me, then Caddx Polar or Nebula in both Mini and micro versions. I recommend using Vtx 20 x20 in order to keep the wiring clean. We have the rear holes available for this. Ideal. If you have a TBS system, I recommend the SIXSTY9, which includes both the Vtx power parts and the TBS receiver. Among other things, the Vtx has a truly remarkable quality and power and we can go where we want.. Otherwise, if you do nt have a TBS system, for example, the Rush Mini comes to mind, always 20×20. Analog cam. I would always stay on the excellent Ratel, which has quite high quality, light weight and is at a good price. Engines and there, which is certainly the most important element to achieve optimal performance. With this 3 inch, I would be like sizes on 13, 14 or 15. The lightest possible, with KV ranging from 3800, as in the case of mine.. Here I used these 1404s from Tmotor. They are the lightest 1404s on the market in spite of their lightness and size, because in any case, they are quite low. They have a really scary power In this case, however, I do not recommend them, because lately the cost has really risen and for the engines that are in my opinion, you can get almost equivalent engines at a much better price.

. If you use the drone primarily for medium range and cruising just stay on 3800KV and you can go up to 5000KV, if you want it a little more performing, obviously at the expense of efficiency, Let s move on to the propellers. I have done various tests, but the best performances I have achieved with the two blades, especially with these 3018, which we see here of the Hqprop and the 3025 Gemfan in case. We do not mount the two blades. I had other interesting performances with the three blades 3018, always of the Hqprop that we see mounted.. The flight duration in this case is slightly shorter, but we have more thrust at low revs, but in terms of vibrations and the feeling of the drone. I honestly liked less. The duration of the flight in mixed conditions, so doing a bit of cruising, even some tricks with the 3800 and the 3018. Two blade is about 7 and a half minutes with the 3025. It is 7 minutes – and I remember that we have about 50 kilometers per hour of available. speed and 7 minutes 7 minutes and 30 to 50 km. H lets say that it makes us reach one of the goals that I had set myself, that is, to carry out a quiet, medium range.. One thing we look at is very important, which I forgot the weight of the final version.. In my case, then, we repeat: double stack: we have the frame with everything that can be mounted on this drone and therefore it can only be with an FC All in one and with maybe less stuff mounted.

If you do not have the need become lighter.. So, as a total weight, we have 167g lets. Also put the two protections. I had pulled off precise 170g with a 650mA Lipo. We remain exactly at 250g.. You also forgot the Naked.. We go to 197g, with Lipo from 650mA. Tattu are about 70 grams, so we are around 250 70g. But I repeat here we have really assembled everything and the stack is not the lightest, because we also have a quite demanding ESC. So, with 650mA we are able to stay under the famous 250 grams that I had set for myself. In the event that we really want to be super calm. We can pull off all the protections we can also maybe optimize by mounting two blades. That are a few grams lighter and we can easily stay under 250g.. The performance we achieved once Piddato. Well, I leave you my Betaflight 4.3 tuning at the end of this. Video are very high. The Drone, above all, is frighteningly stable, which translates into a high driving pleasure. As for the Cinematic video side, look at how the non stabilized video from the Gopro comes out really, very still. It results in a very high final quality because with a post production stabilization, for example, with minimal Reelsteady and therefore much less annoying, the ugly of Reelsteady is the effect it produces and we will have some fantastic final videos made by just a little handyman something that We would have had instead with much bigger drones and aimed above all at the cinematic.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=giKzOQazLKk