BEGINNER RACING DRONE – Stay at Home Build Video! – ‘NEW 2020 EDITION ?
If you are just getting into fpv racing or you want to do your very first quad build. This is a 2020 updated beginner build series on my channel and i've done a ton of build series, but this one's using new components on here we're going to talk about everything on here. You can have a 4s option which I'll put the links down below for and a 6s option, depending on which one you want we're, also going to give you options in this video for doing an HD setup. This is the run cam hybrid 3. It records 1080p at 60 frames per second, which is really nice and it's a pretty good, fast camera setup on here. They fix a lot of the delay issues and the frees up problems that they've had in the past we're also going to put a pretty nice V T excellent here as well. We'Re gon na work with the T V s – that is the Nano Pro on here and we have the HD LRC is Zeus: flight control or ESC setup. It is 35 AM PSCs and you can run it from 3 to 6 s. So again, a 4 or a 6 s option in this build and you can use different motors for 4s and different motors for 6s, depending on which ones you want to use. These are the 2207 and they are lo que, VA they're under 2000 kV. They are 1775 kV, so these are going to be the 6 s motors.
If you want to run 4s, I suggest you get 22 OS, 7 24 50 kV motors and those are gon na, be your 4s set up. So if you're still with me so far, we'll go ahead and get started with this build and I'll walk you through this step by step. We'Ll also do some motor direction will do binding and we'll also do beta flight in this video, so I'm gon na? Have it all here for you here we go some of the items you'll need for this build are some 3m VHB, some snips, some hex drivers. You want some 6040 solder and some steel wool for cleaning off the tip. This is your TS, 100 soldering iron and possibly a wrench for the motor nuts. Now also, I like to have some wire snips, as well as a solder sucker. This is nice removing solder and making any mistakes. Also in case, you need to hot glue your antenna stone, you can use a hot glue gun and some zip ties now. This is the trans tech, laser frame, we're gon na use this it's a very high quality frame, nicely polished and all the hardware is here. The first one we're gon na start out with this, the three millimeter hex driver so go ahead and get that one ready. You might also want some helping hands for holding the flight controller while you're doing some of the extra pad soldering, and it is nice that they have a blown out schematic for this frame kit.
Some of them don't have that we're gon na start out with the m3 twelve millimeter screw on the outside edge of the arms, and this is the base plate. Here you have your two top plates. There they go on top of the base plate. This is the front and the very back is in the bottom part of that bottom plate. You have longer arms and shorter arms in the front, so we're gon na start out with front arms, go ahead and put your bolt through there and just go ahead and drive it in don't drive it all the way down yet just kind of get it in There, so you can still move it around a little bit because you want to have some some space when you're going to put these other arms in there don't crank it down tight. Just yet now we're gon na do the back ones, go ahead and put that outside screw on and through the collar plate. There go ahead and tighten down that one, and now your next arm – and this is – should be your last arm. You can pause this video at any time during this process too. If you need to so now, we almost have what looks like to be a quad, so back in front looks just like the short arms in the front, long arms. In the back. Now we have the Zeus, flight controller and esc sear. The arrow indicates forward motor one two three and four diagram just like this, for your build, go ahead and grab your TS, 100 iron and go ahead and press the start.
Button we're gon na go ahead and have it heat up to about three hundred and eighty to ninety degrees celsius, so that's, 750 to 800 degrees, very hot guys, we're gon na go ahead and tin. The first three motor wire tabs here and you don't – have to do it very long, because these are small tabs. If you do it for a long time, you could have pad seperation from the board and you'll ruin the flight controller and ESC s now we're mount the flight controller, but first we need to put these little grommets through because the Zeus is very sensitive and people Have had reports of having some jello with this board, so you want to definitely dampen this board and it will cause you less headaches down. The road we're also gon na snip off the very top of those little grommets, because they're a little bit too tall, I'm gon na go ahead and take my stand off. So you guys can find the links down to stand off packs down below. Just in case, you need any extras. I would always order some of those and have some of those on hand, and those are the m2 standoffs by the way, not the m3s, if you're gon na order, some so now that I snipped those off a little shorter. The grommets are a little shorter now allowing these top posts to go on now. We'Re gon na grab our motors, the 2207 motors let's go ahead and straighten out those wires, and the first thing we're gon na do is grab some Loctite.
You want some blue loctite. Just dab a little bit on the end, and I usually just wipe it off with my fingers and put it through the bottom of the frame. Now, while you're doing this don't tighten that all the way up yet either because you want to be able to slide the motor around because you don't want that collar in the center on the bottom of the motor rubbing on the frame so make sure that's, nice And centered up right here and now, once you get it centered, you can go ahead and tighten all three screws: nice and tight that's, looking pretty good, so not too hard so far, huh guys! So now you have all four motors installed that takes a little bit of time. I like to take some zip ties at this point and just go ahead and put it around the arm to sort of tidy up the wires and the next thing we're gon na. Do is we're gon na bring these over to the tabs that they have to solder to you're, just gon na bend them down and kind of tuck them under and bring them over like this once you measure that off to be a little bit longer than the Tab just snip them off at that point and go ahead, and just you know, snip these off with your fingers. It'S really soft rubber on these forward motors. Really nice silicone. Actually they don't burn when you touch them with a soldering iron, which is super nice.
Now we need to tin these wires. This is the next step in this process, and this is not super hard guys it just. It just takes a little bit of time concentration. Now here you can use some tweezers if you need. I didn't mention using tweezers before but they're, always in my shop, and I use them just about every build and that when that feels nice and tight – and I might cut this video a little bit guys so I'm soldering these tabs just a little bit longer than What might appear in the video – and usually I start with the wire first and then I touch the tab with the heat so get the wire hot, sizzling first and then tuck your wires underneath, and that looks pretty good. Why our first tab? Second, that's the rule of thumb when you're soldering up motor wires. Now all four of them should be done for your quad. At this point, we can go ahead and bring these wires up through the bottom of the frame. These two holes positive on the left, hand, side and ground on the right hand side. You also have two capacitors in that kit: one large one and a smaller one and I'm gon na go with the larger one, since I am gon na be running 6s and they make some awesome xt60. Excuse me xt 36s batteries that you can run that are a little bit lighter they're in the 850 size and you'll still get 4 to 5 minutes flight time out of them.
They'Re awesome and I'll put some links down below for those those. I believe those were made by G and B now we're gon na solder up your battery terminals, and this is important when you're putting those down heat up the wire first don't heat up the tab and then heat up the wire because it takes a while to It takes a while to heat up the the wire the the thickness of this gauge is pretty thick, so you want to just kind of make sure the wire, the the solder sizzling and here I'm using tweezers, because these wires get absolutely piping hot. So just take your time, there run your sweating on around and, if you flatten it out like that guys, take it back off and do it again. You don't want these two to bridge or touch or even be close to touch and that's a pretty messy solder job for me. So a lot of times I'll just pull stuff back off and redo. It make sure all your wires are nice and tidy. You don't want even a single strand sticking out on the side. Touching the other positive terminal or you'll have the whole thing short out, so never be afraid to just stop what you're doing and start over and do it again. And if you have some nice solder and you get it nice and hot, it should look nice and shiny when you're done with a solder. If it looks kind of a little, not so good, you want to make sure you do it again.
If it looks a little bit tarnished, it has to look shiny when you're done we're gon na turn up both of these wires on the capacitor make sure you do not mix up positive and negative right here, because you will explode your capacitor I've done it before An accident some of these don't have nice wire covers like these. Do this one actually has red for positive and black, most of them have black and black and I've. Looking pretty good there. So we're gon na leave that I'm just gon na bend that down a little bit and possibly put a zip tie over that. I might just leave it there for now and you can put your your battery 3m batteries. Sticky tape on the bottom, like this you're gon na, go ahead and snip both sides of the outside in the back and then you're gon na. Stick it through that xt60 battery lead cable here, just like that, and around and now that's going to cover up those bottom screws that we put through to the flight controller. We won't have access to those unless we take this off, which is kind of a bummer, but you can also snip around those posts that we we have below that if you'd like to and that way, you'd have access to your screws and not have to take That off, but I'm gon na hurry in this build, because I want to show you guys how this goes together and you guys at home are probably taking way more time to build.
Then I am so we're gon na go ahead and zip tie this off to the frame. This is very important if you're new, always zip, tie your main battery lead off to the frame, because, if it pulls it will separate the tabs off your es, es and ruin your flight controller and your see. So this is a really important step. Now we're gon na grab the m3 16 millimeter screws and the standoffs these are you aluminum standoffs? These might even be titanium, they're super light. Usually they make them out of steel, solid steel, but the titanium ones are really fancy so it's a nice fancy kit. When you get some titanium and the kit – and you can just tighten those down by hand one by one around it's nice, because this quad is a affordable top plate release, so if you need to get inside this to work on it later super easy access. This has been a trend for a couple years now, really nice that looks ready to go so now go ahead and grab your Zeus 35 schematic. This shows you where the camera, VTX and all different types of receivers here, how they hook up we're gon na use, an XM plus and it's set up like this. We have yellow wire the red wire and the black wire and we're gon na attend those wires. First, the first one you're going to solder up is your SBUs. Second would be 5 volt and the last one will be ground just like that, and this is the same.
Every single time been doing this one for years. So if you see that gold button on the top left, you know the signal wire goes on that left hand side. So now they actually have an S. Bus tab there so we're gon na do s bus 5, volt and ground, just like that and I'd like to do the wires from the inside, make sure you don't touch the next tab over with the wire and you'll, see it sizzle there, and then you know It'S, nice and hot now you usually push the wire against the iron, and I pull the iron away from the board like that, and I give them a tug and they're Soetoro nice now we're gon na start with the camera install the runcam HD. This is an HD with DVR. The split nano 3 it's just gon na go slide right inside that teepee mountain I'm gon na extend this wire a little bit because I thought it was just a little bit short and then I'm gon na take some snips and snip this in about half here And I'm going to save that wire for the VTX, because I didn't have any extra VTX wire you buy the unified Pro. You will get some extra wire with it now. We'Re gon na get 10 up those three wires there for the camera install and the analog camera slaughters up the same way that this HD camera does. So this is kind of nice.
So this is like two birds with one stone right here: camera five volt ground, and that would be your video in. But here is just labeled camera VTX. If you see vo, sometimes on a flight controller that's video out – and that means that the transmitter is sending it back to your goggles, so that would be video out there. We go not my best solder job there, but it's done now. We'Re gon na go ahead and take those cameras, crews and put it right straight through that TPU mount, and I love this TPU mount. It has a lot of protection for that camera on the front now, we're gon na slide it down over your posts. Looking pretty good there and if you get it upside down, you can flip that camera image over now for the TBS unified pro 32 nano, it looks like this 5 volt ground video and smart audio you're gon na go ahead and tend those wires up and I'll Show you, where that smart audio slaughters up to the flight controller in just a second after we get these wires solder to the VTX. We can do that next step, so we have a connection to the video transmitter now the other side we've tuned those wires, and at this point you want to go ahead and solder on your ground wire, first up top and go ahead and do your video wire Next, it says VTX that would be your vo, your VTX video out tab and the next tab over will be your 5 volt tab and you're gon na tend those pads first and then put your wire on there and now the tx1 wire is where your smart Audio wire is going to go so four wires coming off that VTX not too hard.
So now, that's all done now, we're going to screw on the last two standoffs here and those are on top of the runcam DVR. Now we're gon na go ahead and pop that down don't forget to put your SD card cover on now. The last we'll put one on top of there another one another one and all four there. Now we can mount VTX on the very top of the run. Cam DVR – and these are a little bit long – they take forever to put the little plastic nuts on. So I like to trim these back a little bit just makes it a lot easier and they don't need to be so long for this build anymore, and sometimes I will poach parts off of old quads, but this is totally fine. Those are pretty cheap. Now you have the choice to use this style or the larger style antenna mount. If you have something like a lollipop three it'll fit in the larger one, if you're using a dipole, you can use the smaller one. Like I used now snap on your dipole there. Now we're gon na grab the m25 by ten screws and these two smaller nuts. These are m3 nuts and they go through these back holes right here. One two now take that smaller piece and go ahead and slide it on this two bolts and there's divots there for these nuts, which is kind of nice. Now you can go ahead and drive those down so how's your build going so far, hopefully you're well on your way.
At this point and the more you solder, the better you'll get at it, so don't get too frustrated on your first build I'm gon na pull that dipole back through and now we have the four top bolt. They should be countersunk, bolts, I'm gon na go ahead and put those through and they gave me one panhead screw there. I had to get back in my m3 collection of screws and find an another countersunk style bolt and now I have four in the very top plate – and this is just about done – look at all that extra space in there so much extra space in there that We could fit the CAD X Vista in there, where the TBS unify is that's, really cool, that that will fit and that will fit on a 20 by 20 mount. It has holes through the top of that Vista. Now we can take some antenna posts and just put over the top in the back here. Push down into that TPU mount looks a little bit fancy there. You can also keeps the antenna wire so I'm, going into the props very important now for s or 6s, depending on which one you choose to use, use a smoke stopper before you plug in your first battery I'm, just gon na go ahead and plug mine in Because I don't have an XT 30 smoke stopper and thank God that I have video it's, always a bad thing to not see video when you plug in your quad for the first time in your goggles.
So now we're going to talk about motor direction. Very important. We'Re gon na use the gym fan hurricane props. These are some super fast props and I'll put some links down below for those. You have right turn rear guys, that's gon na be a right turn. Motor left turn from motor number to motor number. Three is gon na, be left turn and motor number four is gon na, be right, turn so leading edge first guys in the way it travels to the right left left, and this last prop will turn to the right, and now we can do some receiver binding We'Re gon na bind Indy 16 because that's what the xm is so go ahead in the model menu of your open, TX radio and go down to where you see fr sky let's go ahead and go to the bind button. There press that blind button holding down that gold tab with a bamboo skewer plug in your battery and the xm is fast. It will bind almost instantly you'll see a green light on your receiver. Now I can just unplug it and it's bound now we're going to test out some motor direction, and word of caution do not do this if you're not comfortable with this I'm, not responsible for what you do so I will not put a motor nut on this When I test this and I'm gon na momentarily just flip the flick, the switch just to get it to barely move and right now I have motor stopped off.
So I will have some motors pull up when this happens so go ahead and grab your transmitter and flick it one time and you're basically arming it, disarming it really fast and so that one's moving to the right. So I know that one's good now testing on motor number, three or motor number, two again that one's good that one's going to the left it doesn't matter which direction prop I'm using here, because we're just looking for direction motor turn. So another quick flip there and that one should be turning to the left that one's good. Now, what about motor number four, that one should turn to the right now: let's go ahead and flick. That arm switch again awesome that one needs to be changed, so we'll go into be a heli, but first we'll do a little bit of beta flight for you guys, I'm going to show you what settings I have on my laser and make sure you're using a Usb cable, that is, a standard data cable, otherwise it won't be able to connect to the flight controller, now go ahead and set your quads flat on the table and press calibrate accelerometer and now, once it's done, we're gon na move the quad around in space left Right forwards and back make sure that everything looks like it does as you're moving in real life on the screen. That way, your orientation is right now we're going to check out the port's tab.
This is where your receiver is talking to your flight controller and where your smart audio is activated, make sure that 0 Rx is checked. Therefore, you are, and over here on the far right you want to have TBS smart audio selected on peripherals, now go ahead and save press save down at the bottom right. It'S gon na take you out and go ahead and connect back in and now we're gon na go ahead back to the port's double check. Everything is saved. That looks good there now going down to the configuration tab, we're gon na go ahead and check expert mode here. So to give us more tabs and I'll. Show you those a little bit later d. Schat 600 is totally fine. Motor stops should be off. Do not click that that looks good and the motor idle speed looks good now, it's right turn rear. This is where you can check prop direction on any quad. All this looks good here for the system configuration turn off barometer and Magno meter. If those are on – and this is where you can name your craft – so you can name it anything – you want your fpv pilot name or the name of the quad laser I'm. Just gon na leave. Zeus 35 on mine armed angle should be 180. Receiver should be SBUs specs that right there and SBUs right there now let's go down to the other features menu here, turn telemetry on for your OSD and make sure.
Osd is also checked here and I'm going to turn on air mode for mine, anti gravity and dynamic filter looks good and now for your beeper we're gon na have an ESC, beeper, so we're gon na turn that on both of those should be checked, Rx lost And set now go ahead and save and reboot and we're gon na go back in and this time we're gon na go down to the power and battery tab and I'm gon na turn. This minimum down to about 3.2 or so and the same thing with the warning I don't want to beeping on me every time I throttle out so now failsafe, we're gon na set to drop always set it to drop. If you lose connection to your quad it's important that it drops and not flies away now, kids we're gon na leave exactly stock. If any of this changes at any time, I'll update the CLI link in the video description down below now receiver, you don't see anything working here right now. You don't have a battery plugged in. So what you need to do is make sure that you plug in your battery at this point turn on your radio first plug in your battery. Next, the quad will not use it should not arm and fly off your table because you have the props off number 1 and beta flight finally put a a failsafe in there, for you guys not to be able to spool up.
Unless you go to the motors testing tab so now everything is looking good. The throttle is moving up just like that. It should move this direction and back down and now the pitch and the roll. As you move your sticks, they should go left right. Just like you see here on the screen and forwards and back for roll now check the channel map on the far right there, depending on what type of receiver you have and your channel setup AET ours, usually the one I use for a far sky, so aux One two and three there that looks good I'm. Only using three switches on most of my quads, an arm switch, a mode switch and a beeper switch. So now we're going to go down to modes and you can go back and forth between the receiver tab and the modes tab to check so I'm gon na go ahead and set this over for you and we're gon na add a range I'm gon na select Ox one we're gon na slide this over to the end here, because this will be the last point: it's only a two position switch. So when I flip it up, it should be in the yellow there. Now you can see that I'm moving ox one that's. My arm switch now back to modes and when I move my switch again, you can see it turns red when it hits that yellow bar so position, zero, there's, nothing position.
One will show you that I'm armed now we're gon na switch to auxiliary two there. For that tab and move that slider over and you can grab them by the center and move them around or you can grab them on the ends and sort of scooch em in and out now for horizon. Here I want horizon to be active, so I'm gon na scooch, those in I'm gon na save that and it won't work until you'd press save. So if you make a selection or you do some changes, you won't see highlighted modes until you make that change. So now everything looks like it is working angle mode is stability mode by the way, now my mode switch again I'm moving, my ox to switch, and you can see both of those are active and now all the way out to the edge right here floating in Free space that would be a crow mode guys there is no a crow mode in this entire list. If you're looking for a crow mode, it doesn't exist. It just floats in space on the end there. So your position number three you're gon na use a three position switch for most of your flight modes. So now for the beeper I'm going to use a separate switch I'm gon na use a switch number three that's aux 3 that's, usually my far right hand switch on my transmitter and that's a two position: switch user lis. So now everything looks pretty good I'm gon na save that again and I'm gon na delete those other two modes, because I don't use stability motor testing.
You can do this on the bench. You want to click and check that you. Yes, you understand the consequences. Take your props off and individually. You can test motor direction here before you even do the other way. I showed you the way I showed you is kind of the old school way, but it's also the quick way, the more dangerous way, of course, but if you want to do it safely, you can take some tape. Take some painters. Tape make a little flag on top of your motor and watch, which direction your your little flag, spins now OSD guys. This is. This – is totally personal here, there's a whole list of stuff that you guys can put on screen for your goggles. You can move them, drag drop things around on the screen and reposition things. I like my battery voltage at the bottom left because most of us read left to right and I'd like to see my battery voltage. First, usually, my quad name goes in the very middle and then timer two is what I like, because it starts the timer from the time you turn the arm switch on I'm, also putting throttle on here, because people like to see poor throttle percentages on my videos. Now I'm gon na click save, and that looks good. So now you can click on font manager and here's, where you can change the font. If you can't see very well, you can make it bold.
Just make that text a little bit easier to see and I'd. Like to have mine bold on my quad, so I'm gon na go ahead and click upload font there beta flights gon na restart, and now, when you plug in the quad and check in your goggles, you should see that you have a different font on the screen. If you didn't take, you can do it again and here sometimes it won't show it on the display when you change the font, but it will actually be on the quad most times now. All this looks good we're just going to change the video transmitter over to 200ml of water I'm gon na put Fatshark channel 1 on mine because most times I start out on Fatshark channel 1 and when you're all done with that go ahead and click Save and In the CLI to find out what flight controller version you're using and what the firmware update is, you can type in version and hit return now, some of the more experienced guys will know what a COI dump is, and if you type D UMP it will give You all of the flight controllers information into a singular file, so I'm gon na save that, for you guys and we're gon na put that as Transtech laser CL dump on my Google Docs and you guys can and click on that link down below. In the video description and save that, if you ever have a problem with your quad or you reset something or you mess something up, you can refer back to my CLI dump.
Dump this into this CLI prompt right here, press return and reload all these settings back into your quad. So now, we're gon na go out of beta flight and we're gon na go into BL heli, because BL heli is how you reverse motor direction. Remember I had one motor that was going the wrong direction for me. I got lucky this time and only have to have one. So we got a closed beta flight first before you use BL heli, because BL heli won't work. Unless you do that, so because it's trying to take control of the motor so now go ahead and plug a battery in, you want to turn on your radio first plug in the battery plug in your data cable to the USB port on your flight controller. And then you're going to go and you'll see all of these load up and the one I need is switch. You see where it says normal make that reversed, and that will reverse that motor. Now I need to write to setup and you see it went through all the es es there, and now I have a working quad when you do your first line of sight test guys make sure you do it line of sight, not fpv, very important that you Hover your quad first, do it in stability mode, but try not to do it in fpv first, because people hit themselves on accident, sometimes so be careful. Alright! Congratulations at this point.
You should have a working five inch race, quad or freestyle maniac quad. Let me know which one you decided to build: was it the 4s version or was it the 6s version? Did you build the analog, the HD or the DJI version as well, and if you're at this point in the video – and you are totally confused about your receiver, it seems to be the first thing that people are confused about is my receiver is not working, so It can be a few things number one. It could be that you didn't get a good bind on your radio, make sure D 16 is selected in your model when you bind it up with the XM 4 Taranis or open TX radios very important that you do that that's step number one after you've bound It and get a green light on your receiver inside betaf light in the port. Stop with this zeus, flight controller. It is important that you select you r2 in the port's tab. 0Rx should be turned on there's, a little yellow tab that slides to the right when that's checked on you should have a working receiver in the receivers, tab and that's, where you go to check your radio. We talked about that floor before in the beta flight section. In this video, but the other thing that it could be is that in the configuration tab, you can click on that tab and go to the receiver section.
It should say specs that SBUs on the next two tabs there, the first one should be specs that SBUs and the next one should be s. Bus, so make sure both of those are selected, and you should have some moving sticks if you don't. Also. Another thing is that you can go back and check your soldering on your receiver wires, that's, another issue that I've had before, where I could get my receiver working I'd tried everything under the Sun and then I finally went back and we saw two things started working. So there's a couple tips to hopefully help you guys get your receivers working and again. If you have any issues, please do put a comment down below. If you have any issues at all building this one or if you have a question about any build that you've worked on, but go check us out on our Facebook page, it is drone camp's drone, community, fpv drone community and you can join up there. You can post pictures of your build, you can ask questions and the guys would just jump on your questions. So if we can help you, we definitely will but anyway, guys I'm Justin Davis, thanks for watching my videos and please do subscribe. If you want more information on fpv racing or drones in general, this is the channel subscribe to take care of guys be safe, stay inside.