5 frame. Uh designed by chris rosser and thats gon na be the first part of this video, hopefully kind of a build guide for this frame, because at the moment there is none that i could find. And then i will save all of the opinions and discussion for after that, so lets get started, but right before we do, i want to say thanks to the sponsor of this video, which is pcb way if youre looking for some custom printed circuit boards go check Out pcb way, because they got you covered, they got all kinds of circuit boards and electronical components for your diy projects. They can even assemble them all the components and put it on the board for you, thats pretty neat, but wait. Theres more pcv way also offers rapid prototyping services, so you can get something 3d printed or made out of sheet metal or injection molded or cnc machined out of various materials. In fact, just a couple videos ago, i showed you guys a part that i had them. Make for me – and i was like wow – this is pretty cool. Oh, my gosh, it works so if youre interested in some rapid prototyping go check out pcb way, link down in the description all right lets get on with this now for assembly were going to need an m2 or a 2 millimeter hex driver im using my trusty Pittsburgh pro right here now take note of all the hardware.

I recommend you sort it by uh size and type, and i really appreciate theres an extra bit of hardware for each uh, each component, thats really nice. So we have nine standoffs. We only need eight. We have some m3 lock nuts, which im not actually sure whether those are going to go. We have some very short, m3 countersunk screws. We have some longer countersunk screws, those are going to be on the top uh top plate of the frame. We have the mid length, countersunk screws and those are going to be on the bottom, and then we have the longest countersunk screws and those are going to be um. I think for like, if you want to use it in your 30 by 30, stack and well talk about that when we start building and then we have a whole bunch of motor screws for mounting the motors on the arms for the carbon, we have the top Plate right here we have the bottom plate and take note that for the bottom plate you want the countersunk part, the countersunk holes in the middle to be facing downward and the two little notches in and one end of the plate. Thats going to be where your camera goes, so thats going to be the front, and then we have two camera plates. We have an x shaped uh support plate for the middle. Then we have two uh plates for the very front and very back to hold the arms together and then, of course, we have four arms: okay, im gon na start with my bottom plate here.

So we have the countersunk holes facing downward and the two notches are the front of the frame and then im going to take an arm here and the arm is going to go on the underside of the frame like this and its going to line up with These holes right here so lets put that together, so were going to need a medium length. Countersunk screw were going to need a bracket or a one of these short little plates were going to put the screw through that plate and then were going to put the screw through the arm. The short side of the the short side of the arm there and then were going to put that arm through the plate, and this could this could really be either end of the drone. But well just do the front right now and then you can see the hole lines up right there now just to keep this from moving around im, going to take a standoff, theyre all the same length by the way and just im going to just thread that On there and just get it kind of snug, so then this way everything will stay in place. Now. At this point, i just want to point out that these holes for the 30 by 30 stack for the flight controller stack um. They get covered up by the uh arm assembly or by the by the arm. So i i dont really like that.

I think im not sure if it will be a problem because theres quite a bit of friction, so it shouldnt we shouldnt get into the situation where we have this uh screw freely. Spinning when were trying to tighten it um, but i dont really yeah. I dont really like that. You cant tighten that you cant access that screw unless you uh remove the the screw thats holding on the arm. The good thing is that it is countersunk and i did decide to get the countersunk um option for the top plate, but im pretty sure that no matter which option you get the uh these. These four holes for the 30 by 30 stack are always going to be countersunk because i dont think you could put this frame together if they werent so just a little fun fact there. So if you have all of your electronics ready, i would definitely recommend installing your flight controller stack before finishing the assembly of the arms. I dont have my electronics ready so right now, im just going to leave the screws out, actually tell you what just for dramatic effect lets leave the screws in okay. Now, with this arm lined up im going to get the uh, the x shaped bracing plate and then im going to align it so that it will line up with all of the arm holes and then were going to get. Lets get another mid length screw right here and just put it through that whole stack so through the bracing plate through the arm and then through the bottom plate like that, and then we can put a standoff on here to tighten it down there we go so We have one arm completed and ill go through and tighten down all the screws with an actual driver.

Once we get everything uh together here now to put on the other arm the opposite arm, we just line it up and then slide it in place and its pretty easy. When everything is loose well, get another mid length screw its like the second from longest countersunk screw well just line up all the plates and everything find the find the hole there we go. Some of these holes are are a little um obstructed from the extra carbon fiber from the cutting process, so its not um its, not a super clean finish as it comes from the factory and well just put another stand off there to tighten it down, hold it In place now, we just line up this arm with the bottom plate put another screw through there. Oh shoot see what i did see. I forgot that i, if i was going to mount a stack with these long screws, i need to put that screw in there. So thats very important to remember: okay, there we go so weve got that through there well put another put another standoff on there: okay cool! So now we have half of the arms done, so i did a silly there. I forgot that i should just put all of the screws in to put all of the 30 by 30 mounting screws in. You know if thats, what im going to use, which im not sure if it is for this frame or not, but lets just pretend that it is so.

You want to make sure you put all your 30 by 30 screws in there and then put the bottom plate to cover it, because you cant access them after you put the bottom plate on there now. Well, just take the other uh the other arm here, and all these arms are identical by the way, which is very nice. Very nice. Well, take a long another of the long screws just kind of work it in there take another standoff thread it on there. We go and then here we can see we get our other uh plate. Our little bracing plate for the back. The bracing plates are identical as far as i can tell so it doesnt matter if its on the front or the back, but it has to be on either or actually it has to be on both well get another mid length, screw countersunk screw and put it Through there there we go cap that off with a standoff, okay and then well, do the same for the very last arm lets get that last arm in there this one we just kind of slide slide between those plates that are already there. Okay well cap, that off with a standoff all right last one through the base plate or the bottom plate or the bottom through the bottom back bracket through the arm through the bottom plate and one more standoff and now its probably a good time to point out That we do have uh three 20 by 20 mounting options, so we have a 20 by 20 holes on the front and the back and the middle right there, and then i just decided for effect to put our 30 by 30 screws in place.

We can at least see what that looks like and then on the front. We have the two notches for the camera plates. So here we have the camera plate. This little notch is just going to go in this other little notch, thats, not a notch. I guess thats like a cutout anyway and then well put in this other side like so, and then the top plate now one interesting thing about the top plate. Just to note it has these little recessed parts in the carbon top plate, so thats kind of cool because it does seem to help um keep the camera plate stiffer and from moving, but well have to see if that actually works. But i thought that was a nice feature, so orientation for the top plate. You want the countersunk screws facing upwards and you want the little uh rounded cutout facing forward, and we just kind of need to wiggle those in place yeah just kind of jiggle it all until it comes in place. Okay, cool! So now all of our standoffs line up and so for this um, it looks like it looks like we could use either these very short screws or we could use the somewhat longer screws um im going to use the somewhat longer screws, because i want to have A bit more threads in my standoffs, but so well use these guys and just thread those down and ill tighten them all down. Once we get everything threaded and in place and of course you know if youre building your quad youre not going to put your top plate on until you know, youre youre almost done building it but ill just put it all together.

So we can look at it. We have all of these countersunk screws tightened down, looks very nice. I just love how its just flush you dont have those button head, screws sticking up, but the front is not countersunk, and that is because the intention is to use these button head screws. It comes with three button head screws. You only need two and those are going to go on the front standoffs and the reason for this is its expected that you will mount a gopro on the front. So you wouldnt want to have uh. You wouldnt want to countersink the carbon because you dont want to use countersunk screws for mounting the gopro, because you you will use either the the button head screws or maybe even a washer, because typically youd use a tpu 3d printed. Gopro, mount and youd want to distribute the uh the force of the screw to hold down the mount as effectively as possible. Now, youll also notice that we have some holes back here and there are no standoffs, and that is for the gopro mounting as well. So this is a 30 by 30 or 32 by 32 square uh from for the the four uh forward, most holes in the frame, and then i guess thats what these m3 lock lock. Nuts are for thats my. That is my estimation, so i guess there arent any screws provided for the actual gopro mounting unless, unless these motor screws are there enough motor screws, uh four mine came with 18 cap head motor screws or motor mounting screws, but i think you could use those for The gopro mounting as well depends on how thick your mount is, or the for the gopro that could work, though im not totally sure to be honest with you, what the intended use of the m3 screws is um, or why there are the number that there are, But i mean ive got plenty of m3 screws, so thats no big deal, but if you only have the frame components then thats what you could do to mount the gopro.

A couple things to note is you could use some loctite some some some. You know low strength or medium strength, loctite, just like a tiny bit on some of these threads, but i wouldnt personally, that could be very, very difficult, especially the top plate. You dont want to lock tight the top plate because youre, probably taking that on and off the most um, so i wouldnt do that. Chris rosser also recommends applying grease some type of grease. I cant remember, which type but some type of uh heavy grease to the connections on the frame for, like ultimate vibration. Um dampening, i suppose, but to be honest with you, i am not at that level where i could really even appreciate that much vibration dampening. Although i do appreciate the idea – and i do appreciate the design here and that is partially – why i bought this frame because i mean look, you cant argue with triangles, and this thing has got four triangles its got. Well, it basically has four one for each arm and then it has basically two big triangles and i mean come on who doesnt love triangles? Really really the egyptians love triangles, you know and look what happened to them and maybe maybe thats a bad example anyway. So thats the extra hardware that im left with so there you have it, that is the assembly not too difficult, actually uh, even though it does seem kind of complicated but um.

I really like that. The uh this is the discussion part by the way. So this is a lot of this is just my opinion, but well kind of talk about the design and why i chose this design and i dont know maybe its trash. I know theres theres, i just saw a video by mr steele and he was kind of trash talking, the the aos 5, but this is the 5.5. So this is the actu. This is a newer frame actually similar design, especially with the truss style, arms um. But anyway, let me answer a question that you might have: does this circle or does this cut out for the aos, which stands for art of science by the way will that fit in xt60? And the answer is yes, it will so you can put an xt60 connector right through there, which is uh very good, and there are several large cutouts that you could run um. You cant fit an xt60. Well, you can, you can almost fit. You can just barely fit an xt60 uh. You might be able to like jam it in there, but you could definitely run your uh battery lead the cables through here. If you wanted to, i mean i probably wouldnt, but you can definitely run it through this big o cutout in the back. I really like that it has as an option and i decided to get the countersunk screws on the top of the frame.

So then you can put your battery on there. Basically, however, you want and youre not going to run into the button head screws, although i will say these, these screws are actually um pretty far out like out from the center of the frame, so you probably actually could put a battery on there and that would Not even be a problem, so i realized that now i still like the countersunk screw heads. I think it just looks better see how much this weighs it weighs 127 grams and just to note the two front: camera plates are kind of wiggly. Now, once you put a camera in there and and screw them together, they will become tight and they should uh that tension should hold everything together on the actual machining. So there are some sharp edges. The there is chamfering on these arms, not a ton of chamfering. Very small amounts of chamfering and the, but not on the on the top or bottom plates, so those are theyre sharp, but they wont cut you. I dont think like theyre, not sharp enough to cut you thanks for watching everybody. I hope you enjoyed this video and discussion of this. Let me know if youd like to see more about this frame, i will be building this and uh, seeing how it actually works, blah blah blah. Let me know if you have questions or comments down in the leave.