ALL-METAL LIEBHERR 574 HYDRAULiC Wheel Loader BUiLD! LESU (PT 3) Rubber Meets Road | RC ADVENTURES
Whatever makes you happy whatever model you want, you got it the last time I left you guys. We had just finished installing the two Rams on the bottom. You can see one brass Ram right there and then the other one on the bottom right here. This is to help the wheel, loader articulate this is the pivot point in the middle and, of course, this just moves back and forth. When I have two hands or hydraulic power moving it there we go so what I've done is because I have very large hands and there are very small parts here. It is very difficult for me to get in and to do all these tiny little tedious things for you like running these hydraulic lines, because it does take quite a bit of patience quite a bit of strength in your digits as well. It looks like I lost, or I did not put in one of my bolts good. I thank you for pointing that out, and you can also see that I have gone ahead and put in the lower ramps. The top Ram is for the bucket. The lower Rams are for the the arm, of course, and if we look over here, there is the arm right there. So I think we're just going to really kind of focus on getting those axles on today. Maybe getting that front arm on I've been working on this for a few hours already, but just to get to this point, if you're going to be building one of these at home, somebody asked me to do a difficulty scale and that's difficult for me to do.
I would say a seven out of eight difficulty for me just to try to rate something like this, because everyone's skills are different. Everyone'S experiences are different. If this is your first model you're building, I suggest you do something completely different, because on your scale, you might suggest that this is a 11 out of 10. When truly somebody like you, no more experienced builders that are out, there could probably get this done. You know in a couple of weekends or during the week, or some people take their time and take all year to build this on RC sparks to do and rcadventures we take about a month, okay, magic instruction book. You tell me all of your secrets, so let me know what we need. We need the m20 and 12 of those okay and then 12 M to lock nuts looks like we're going to be getting the rocker on the bottom here's the rocker right here, we're, going to attach one of these axles to the rocker plate. Let'S have a look at this axle here, doesn't matter front or back I'm, not sure I love the scale. Look at this plus the less you stamp, it's, beautiful, okay, that it actually says less you on either side. If you look at it, the L is on the bottom and then e s and you right up to the top, which makes it kind of like this lion's head very, very cool lots of work to go.
This is a remote locking differential. This is the remote locking system right here, so it's just cable pulled and when you pull it it locks into place and when you release it it unlocks beautiful. I love the detail on this let's see here: M 220 I've put on the end perfect and then I'm going to need the lock nuts. Those are not them all right. I'Ll move the cable for the brushless motor. This is the motor for the pump that's right here for the hydraulics I'm going to identify where the top is so. This will be on the top, which means I want this to roll over just slightly and then to be on that rocker. This is actually you know. A loader like this doesn't have a suspension. Instead, as it tries to conform along the rocks, it has this rotten or that good the dirt. It has this rocker that allows it to move back and forth, mostly the rider inside in a full size, one they're cushioned by their seat. If it has a suspension as well as the air in the tires, thankfully there's, no one riding inside these machines, so comfort is not a factor and the screws will drop down from the top to the bottom. So all the the lock nuts will be on the bottom slide it straight through here, except I'll, be going into the axle. Does that feel good mmm, so tiny? You can barely see it and just getting this done so there was 12 of those long screws, but I needed to use a to them on this back axle.
I look forward to finding out how I change or what changes, but look at that such a great pivot point. Those axles like leave a comment right now. Is this something that's super cool to you or man. You'D wish I'd go back to trail. Trucks what's funny is, I actually have done many trail truck videos since the beginning of the year, but I got ta tell you since YouTube Gold starts, and I get fascinated with this heavy duty equipment lots of different videos on the way. Of course, my channel now has more than 1500 rcadventures out there. You know I'm. Over I can't even say I got to have at least a hundred different builds lots of different entertaining videos from all different areas of the radio control hobby, and I figure, if you haven't, checked it out already. You might like some of them so go ahead. Check click on the videos section of my youtube channel and you'll find more so now I got this one and I only see four screws, which is exactly what I was talking about so that's interesting. So it's got some sort of cross, brace and okay. So I will do that next, hello, mr. axe ooh. I have to have super strength just to do that. Even just did this joke in the last episode of YouTube gold, it sounds like I got. Ta go to the bathroom wow, so cool I've never built a wheel loader before and just to see these axles.
Like look at that, how sexy is that I am loving that front it's all metal right like there's, only like two or three pieces of plastic on here and that's. Basically just for the glass to be put in it looks like some sort of rolling Canon doesn't. It insane, I hope you have dropped a light click already just for the ingenuity of this company coming out with a wheel loader that you can actually build so cool if you guys are looking for more information about stuff like this or stuff, you see in my Videos always make sure to check out the title and always make sure to check out the description box where you may find helpful links or more information than I leave around to get you closer to your own RC adventure alrighty. So next one that is done. So I get to move on to 12, which is putting more hydraulic, tube uh huh. I feel like stringing, hydraulic, tube and fittings a lot like I do with bead locks on radio control, hobby cars. They are a lot of work and your fingers are gon na. Be sore at the end of it no but no big deal. This is just a small one. I'M gon na put some braiding on the outside of this, because this is going to be an exposed. Tube I've got to get the the fitting right here. That'S going to go right on to the pump itself and then the tube, with a fitting that goes on to the bottom, where the tank is alrighty here.
Here is the two fitting, so I only need one of those so I'll save the other. Once again, as a reminder, if you are doing any kind of hydraulic, fitting make sure to use some sort of thread, sealant, specifically for hydraulic, that it can withstand the hydraulic oil or whatever oil you are using and I'm just going to use a small amount on The thread of the fitting before I thread it into the actual pump itself. Wait, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait! Something doesn't make sense here: I'm supposed to put that fitting into this block right here and there's, another hole right beside it on that pump and then behind it there's a third hole right there. But you know what I see on mine, there's, no holes where's the holes there's two holes over here is over here, oh they're, on the other side, it's assembled wrong. They put it together wrong in the factory or I mounted it upside down, that's what it is. It'S mounted upside down: yes, they did it right. I'M, just the idiot all right, as I was saying, you want to take your threaded piece there. This is for the hose and put it on the left hand, side, and then you want to push the hydraulic tube on to the fitting, then take a spring collar slide. It all the way down over the fitting and the tube. Then you want to use what they call burden tube, which is just like this spring tubing to go over and protect the actual tube itself, because this is on the outside of the machine.
It'S gon na get bumped and scraped and scratched, and you want to make sure to have some sort of protection, so you're not spilling hydraulic, fluid all over your mind, site or construction site or whatever you're using and a few moments later, there's the spring in place. The sheathing goes on I've left quite a bit of room here because you can stretch this out, but this is an m5 fitting right here, it's a 90 degree that comes out of the tank, I did add some of the five four or five Loctite already. This is the collar lots of thing lots of things to remember here. You'Re gon na have to turn this around. This is gon na be fit over the end which I'll need two fingers for, and then this slides over that to secure the line and I'll show you what it looks like here in a moment like any good person need to stretch out the spring, probably need A little you'll need to work it a little bit, hey back and forth back and forth what eventually you'll get it to where it needs to be, and it is protected yeah and they all rejoiced. Okay, something interesting just happened, and I wasn't I wanted to make sure that it wasn't me this time for sure I'm. Looking at the the axle here, the way it's set up – and it shows that the two there's two nuts on the bottom – those nuts on the bottom – are actually these things right here.
These are actually going to be the cable holders for the locking differential. Now the locking diff will be pulled like this, with a cable that wraps around the bottom and I've confirmed that this is on the bottom and I've confirmed that this goes towards the top, because you don't want this getting snagged or anything if it was flipped upside Down so I wanted to make sure here I could see that this was the bottom. This is where the tank is hooked up. That'S right there is the two nuts on the bottom that's right. What kind of fuss am I talking about right now? Does anybody notice this because I always edit my videos as I go here, is the last two logo awesome. There is the last two logo for the plate that I put on after I was done. I still got to fix that screw up top okay after I was done with the hydraulics, but look at it they're upside down. This one is upside down. So yes, I could turn this axle right side up. If I want the logo to be right side up, but the way they have it in the thing here with the arm and the different, the locking diff mean out of the way which is smart. It means that their logos are upside down and these are not actually stickers. I don't think these are stickers. I think that's actually cut right in to the axle, but I'll have to confirm that it's definitely metal all right.
So now another fitting right beside with more oil pipe. This is going to also be sheathed with that spring, the m3 nozzle right there and it's gon na be h2 pipe. Well, that's, not a big deal, it's pretty small same same size. We just used and there's the second one I saved yeah, a small dab of hydraulic thread sealant and then that can be placed there now. The line that I'm working on is this one now coming up through the top I flipped the loader over. This is the line that's coming from the pump, so this is pushing oil into the hydraulic block itself when anything asks for it so I'm, just going to back off both of these and then we're gon na have one that returns right down to the pipe right. There so it's gon na have a flow in and a flow out or an in and a return, and here you can see it hooked up. I chose not to put the spring on this because personally I don't like the look of the spring. I think it looks more scale with just the black lines, but hey to each their own I'd. Never say anything about anybody, else's, except go out and have a good time build. What you want so here is gon na, be the next one. I'M gon na build a small tube it's gon na wrap around like you can see right here, oh wow, actually it looks like the one I just stood here was backwards, so I should switch this around all undo this and just switch this in this it's.
Just a little hose that I made, which is in the instruction book and I added another m5 90 degree and I'm just gon na add it to the tank like that. Now, with that in place that is gon na seal the tank off, except for the filling hole right here, I wonder where the expansion or relief valve is. I haven't seen anything like that. Yet maybe this will be a relief valve over there. I don't know we'll see but that's where it should go, even if it isn't and it's just a little cap or something I could still put on another 90 degree fitting with it a bit of a tube running through the back somehow, and then that way. If there ever was an expansion – or there was too much oil in there, it could just blur about the back if it doesn't have one haven't got that far yet but I'm. Just thinking ahead. Okay, next step number 13. In this one book, I'm going to be hooking up the micro servo. Oh, it looks like a bigger servo, actually, no micro servo, so this is going to be probably for shifting, because this have has a two speed. So let me see how this is all done, so this all fits together. This is, ah, this is gon na be for the locking differential that's. What this is, I think, okay, so here's, a detailed look. This is going to be the servo that pulls the cable confirmed, and what this is going to do is sit down right in this little servo holder area, but it's gon na sit what you and I would call upside down, but the whole unit is upside down.
Right now so we're putting it right, side up, hey and once that's installed, then I need to get out some cable or steel rope as they want to call it and more burden tubes slightly smaller. What I want to do is hook it into the end of that servo, and I want to run it now. You can see the rear. One goes along atop, the back at like the at the bottom of the axle. As you can see, even though it looks like it's on top, because it's flipped over wraps around to the arm section, so that will be one portion, then it must there's a cave that's. What that was for there is a cable stay right there. We installed that way back. I think in episode one. So here are the two cables that are already pre done and they were a prepackaged with the cable inside this spring, sheathing or loom, or whatever you'd like to call it and I'm going to string it in to where the end of it is going to be Going through the arm and then I'll be stringing, it all the way through this, so it goes into the servo where it's supposed to stay and a few moments later the cable is in place. All the way through the sheathing is all the way through I'm, not crushing the sheathing. With these screws I just kind of clamped down on a little bit, so it doesn't slide back and forth through the callers.
Then this goes underneath along the the other spring. There. Everything being covered and to the wire stay and then through to the horn, but you'll notice. Ah, there are two little cables here, what's that for well. If you look closely, I also did the back one so that one wrapping around it was supposed to go through. Don'T worry about this servo it's it's it's, just just there. It goes wraps around comes through and to that cable stay. So, as soon as this gets pulled, forelock diffs, it pulls both cables. Sorry about the focus there that's why I said very small parts very hard to focus on when there's this many colors, you know close together matching to so there you go. Oh what's, this you're wondering anybody catch this comment. If you noticed it was just sitting there. Look at this servo, my friends I went in as well. This is the shifting servo for the transmission it's mounted up right beside the the locking differential servo make sure if you're building along to pay attention to the lengths of servo horns it does matter because it is a very tight fit in there. Okay last thing, I'm gon na do today let's mount up some tires, almost one pound. Each these things are nicely weighted, especially to go onto those metal axles. So let's go ahead. Get these tires over here now. These are gon na, be a gluing tire. I love the compound here: it's, nice and soft.
Most of these I'm gon na say soft and firm, like you can see I'm pushing down quite a bit. It'S got a little bit of give in it, but it feels like a really good quality rubber. It doesn't feel like just hard, you know: it's, not plastic it's, not super firm for rubber. It feels like it actually has some comfort to it, which I know sounds kind of dumb, because no one's inside of this riding in it so I'm gon na just stretch this around. They can be glued. I went ahead and painted this anyway. I'Ll probably glue these, but I know that these have a nice, sticky grip to them as well. I am wondering if gluing them is even going to be necessary, so I'll get these mounted up on the wheels. Basically, what you have to do is just wrestle with the tire because it's, nice and soft or pliable, if you add a little bit of strength, just push the rim right through and then once you have a seal on one side like that, as you can see, The other side is poking through what I like to do is roll the rubber out and up out and up, and it just kind of helps it pop right into place. If this is a good, helpful tip or if you're getting any helpful tips from my videos, please leave a comment and let me know how long have you been watching the show and what tip was it that helps you out or was it just in general? Look at that beautiful yeah let's go ahead and get that missing bolt up front.
I like the fact that it's bolts and not screws everywhere, look at that a nice hex bolt what I can't mount up the wheels yet because they want me to install the drive shafts that's. Okay, though I don't mind that at all there's two drive shafts unless whose drive shaft are very nice notice, the the size difference. Okay, yes, I'm. Talking about the sizes of drive shafts, this whole show was innuendo. This is the smaller one. This is going to be going onto the back of the wheel loader right here, so you can tell that because this is the tank and, of course, there's the pump. So q1 goes on the back. The longer drive shaft going on the front of the machine. It comes with four set: screws per drive, shaft so make sure to use all four for strength, especially when you're using four wheel drive because you'll be pushing dirt and a lot of torque is being transferred from that motor into the differentials. But it's got to go through the drive shafts first, ah so, starting to come together really nicely now. The whole driveline is in now will the book. Let me move on. Let me see here, do I get to put on the tires? Finally, no I wants me to do the arms and the bucket and then the tires. When do the tires get to go on? Can I put them on now just for good yeah, how many of these, or just about 1700 screws nice? Well, after what felt like thousands of screws later, I have the wheels and the tires mounted up to the wheel.
Loader check it out and keep in mind. Every single screw has to have some Loctite or thread lock on it. That way, when it's out there doing work, you're, not gon na, have anything vibrating and letting loose now keep in mind. This loader is turning out to be a much smaller than I and dissipated. Here is my hand. I know you guys are like what the yeah exactly, but it is super heavy which is nice like this is almost as heavy as, like. My RC four wheel, drive loader, for example, so this has a lot of power behind it. I am assuming because just these wheels alone like this, this has to weigh about 13 pounds, just as it sits so it's a very solid little machine. My friends, I almost looks like it's like, like, I said, a rolling cannon, but there you are guys I'm gon na leave it there. Today you see lots of servo wires.