ALL-METAL LIEBHERR 574 HYDRAULiC Wheel Loader BUiLD! LESU (PT 2) “MEAT and POTATOES” | RC ADVENTURES
My friends and you are joining me in the second video of my les ooh wheel, loader. This is a hydraulic all metal, wheel, loader. I was surprised to see how much metal was in this kit. In fact, there are only like four pieces of plastic. Everything else is metal, so it is an insane kit to look at everything has been painted and laid out for you to see interesting. There are two instruction books for this: build just for two different parts of the build itself. Now a whole bunch of these pieces came set in styrofoam or like in foam block, and the other pieces came wrapped in bubble, wrap in a separate box. So there are individual pieces to assemble and then they come together. Yes, I know I said in the last video that I was gon na paint it as the same color scheme as I saw on the box, but I actually deviated away a little bit. I chose not to go with white, but instead a nice dark gray. Now the axles are already pre painted black and there is some brass on there, of course, also the silver bolts that make them very scale, and then here are the brass Rams. You can see they've already started to tarnish. I actually love this. I don't want to paint these guys. I think they're, absolutely gorgeous some people will say they want to. You know, see it a different color but that's the beauty of the Hobby.
When you get your kit, you can do whatever you want to yours. Look at this here's the bucket coat after coat. I did on these things, letting them dry for 24 hours in between coats. Thank You spiderweb for making it look like everything was scratched, but I know a few minutes in the dirt will probably see it peeling back off the bucket, but that's that's pretty standard. Yes, I went a little crazy here. Look at this. The teeth are going to be orange. What are you doing? You'Ve ruined it already I've, read it all over the last 10 years 12 years and what I do like 100 builds yeah. Look it just turned out so well. I actually ordered all my paints online I'd. Give you a website in the video description box down below cuz, I can't remember the name of the site right now and it's that I have paints actually made. For me, this is actually the Doosan orange. If you guys are familiar with that brand at all. Why did I you go deuce, an orange for a lever here? Well because it's a hobby and I can do whatever colors I like, because I love having a variety of different things. Even these handrails, they were chrome. I decided to go ahead and paint them orange. Some of these pieces here's a whole lineup here you didn't paint those at all and that's. True, I want to see how they fit and and like once everything is getting as once everything is assembled or near assembly, then I will paint these pieces to suit it.
The best, the way, I think it should look and the last video showed you how heavy these wheels are. Listen, just hey they're, almost a pound to each everything's ready to go to instruction books. One help me assemble one piece: one help me assemble the other we're gon na start on this piece right here: it's, basically, the frame or the chassis for the wheel, loader or at least half of it. Let'S get going so page 1 step 1, so take bracket a2, so that's gon na be for the rocker for the wheels and then the bearings and the pin and an e clip. So one of those two of the flange bearings and then one pin that's 42.5. Well, there's the flange bearings that's, easy there's, a whole bunch of pins in this bag. Let'S, probably I'll just cut that open and the e buttons alright, so flange bearing on the inside and of course, my paint job is done. An awesome job of changing the tolerances. Just to kind of level it out and then push it into place like that, oh it's, on the wrong side, oh it's, just a little bit too tight very like you damage the paint nope I didn't pretty resilient, and then we want to drop the rocker down With the pin going it through, oh come on rocker get in there. I know I didn't change any of the tolerance on this at all. There'S, barely any paint on the rocker Wow super tight fit in there.
There we go so I did not really have to push it too hard with my fingers to get it into the right spot. So you know make sure that your your bearings are actually seated properly I'm gon na try to get this pin all the way through. Without being able to really line up the holes, usually so what I'm gon na do is I'm gon na look down here and you can see? Is it right on point? Almost I had to gently persuade it with a rubber mallet, but it is in place. It was a very light tap. What now for those sweet buttons as the instruction book calls it or the Eclipse or for some people, they know them as Jesus clips because that's what they show it as soon as they fly onto the floor. There is this handy, dandy, Eclipse tool. Look at this I'm gon na try to find one on Amazon and link it for you guys in the video description box below, because every single hobbyist should have one of these. Every mechanic should have one of these. This is simple: if you look on the other side, it's like a two stage clip here, where it kind of breaks, you can see there's there there's two sides there's two sides to this, where you just find the right size, you stick your Eclipse it. This spreads apart a little bit, but it holds the Eclipse, nice and tight. That way, when you go in, all you have to do is just stick it right down on the outside down and it's on no more lost eclipse.
Yay remember that bag of pins. If I said I was gon na cut open notice that these say 11.2, these say 11.5 and then these say 11.6, if you are building along with me right now, make sure that you get the next step proper, because in the instruction book it is saying eleven Point six you're also going to need the second Swing, part for the chassis assembly and two of the brass Rams for the hydraulics. Also two screws that are the M 2 4. So over here M 2 4. They are bolt so we're, just gon na need a few of those. There are the hydraulic rams. You can see them very small. I could polish those up any time, it'll print you guys would be like that. Doesn'T look proper at all. I don't, like it it's thumbs down right now, but actually that's still it's. Okay, I want unique RCS I've always enjoyed unique, looking construction equipment. I think all the same stuff kind of gets a little bit boring and to each their own right. Whatever floats your boat, so there we go we're going to be setting this up. You'Ll notice, each one it can be set up on each side, so both of them have the hose connectors up top and then one on the left side and then one on the right see those two holes right in the middle and I'm. Referring to this one and this one on the top, this is where they're actually going to be sliding in so it's, going to be fed up through the middle and then in, like that, with a pin that goes through.
That pin is going to need a bolt in it and then what I did to one side I do to the other, so the second ram is now installed. You can see the two bolts all right now. The next step, step number three, is actually very complicated and I learned new curse words that I never even knew existed in my brain until this step. What you're looking at here is the two parts coming together to form the center joint, where it articulates in the middle, where the wheel loader articulates. So here now we're running into the eleven point. Five pin we're gon na have two of these Center pins, where it's going to be like a king ping, but a swing pin two of these screws. There is the gasket. I want to put one side by side, so you could see if you are building along. It is in this bag. Seven point three by four one: asterisk zero point: five gasket and then an e clip now you're actually gon na need to eclipse here the only list, one but you need to, and what do I mean well, these two came together. I did this off camera, as you can tell. I was kind of chatting about what I knew. What I was talking about, they're kind of and what's going on here is: there are two of these gaskets or shims. Now they are very, very small metal shims there. We go and the tolerance on this wheel loader, is that of like you're talking less than micro millimeters.
Everything fits together very snugly, especially if you have painted it now. Thankfully, I haven't done layer after layer after layer, which is good. I'Ve only had a few layers in there, but to get those Rams seated properly, so you could put the pins in plus put a shim up here. A shim down here run the the swing pin through the center run the swing pin through the center. Then, if you're lucky enough to have one of these handy dandy little clip, you know for the Eclipse of the tool you can just clip it on like I did on either side, and then you are left with this. But for me to do all that on camera was way too many small parts and more effective for me just to show you the end result step four has to do really simple, just putting three screws into a small piece. You see the small piece here. This has three holes in it on the side and in the front they're, obviously going to be going in the front. This is the bag you need. There is only three screws in there use a little bit of Loctite in all the areas that you don't have any paint. Even if you have paint some people would say, use Loctite, it's totally at your discretion, any on metal on metal should have blue loctite, at least now. As I turn the page you'll be excited to see. Look at this we're gon na get right into the meat and potatoes right away.
There is the motor there is the transmission. Everything is getting installed on the chassis right now. In fact, there is the pump the hydraulic pump and motor look. How quickly we get to get into this and there we go. I bet you that is gon na, be some sort of wire stay right. Those screws are actually if I can get the better light here. Those screws are gon na, be holding something in place. It'S a brushless little outrunner motor for the hydraulic pump. I actually think this is great. Normally, we do something other than this, and this is like further into the build, but instead we're shaking it up a little bit and getting into electronics and transmissions and hydraulics right away. So here is the motor that's gon na be responsible for moving the whole machine forward and backward. You can see here. It'S a can five. Forty twenty seven turn brushed motor. That means it has a couple of brushes that push up against a calm, positive and negative charge makes it go forward and backwards. Yes, this is a rebuildable motor that's nice to know. One of the things I noticed, though, and it seems to lack in the instruction book – is that when we look at number five, it just shows the motor and transmission together and an untrained eye if you're building this for your first time would be wondering how the Do I put this together because there's no goddamn way you'd even know so here is the transmission itself? Okay, I know that if you have a motor with a motor shaft you're going to need a pinion on the end, most people would know that and the pinion is actually going to have to turn those gears on the inside.
You can see them kind of sticking through the center diameter they're not on the outside, but on the inside diameter there's three gears poking with a hole in the middle. What I've done is I've taken these screws on the outside here out and I removed this plate from that. This is gon na, be your motor mount plate I'm, assuming I don't, know I'm just kind of going along here kind of troubleshooting with you guys now. This is the pinion that I could find. The neat thing about this pinion is it's not like a normal pinion. In fact, this is going to be one that you have to push on to the motor shaft. Now, how are you expected to do that without damaging the motor that's, a good question, but I assume what we have to do is basically put that pinion in the center, so it's seated properly like this, you can see it fits very nicely and then what I Want to do is I want to put that motor mount onto the motor itself. Now it'll have pre drilled holes that will line up with the motor holes. You can see on the front face there and then once that's mounted, we can reset this on to the transmission like this once the motor plate was attached. I had to take a couple of my own screws and kind of grind down on the sander. The tops of them so that they could fit flush with the motor mount plate, and then I had to tap that pinion on in place, even though the motor shaft had a flat spot on it.
The pinion had no area to put a set screw in. After that, I just simply did up these four screws one two three four, and this is what you have. Hopefully everything is going to work. I don't see that these output drives go all the way through I'm curious about that there they only go halfway so I've. Never seen that before this does have a two speed transmission, though so it's gon na have lots of grunt power if set up properly. Hopefully I did it right what's, the next step, so I have to set up the two mounts that are here now believe it or not. You guys are watching this in just a few minutes, but this is actually taking me quite a bit of time to figure out these steps and know how they go in here I'm, going to pay special attention that there are m36 is four of these going in. On either side to mount it up to the frame as well as these mounts here somehow go on to the frame right. There yeah and I'll just lift this motor and transmission in drop it down, and it will sit like that and then one of these on either side. The only reason I mentioned about how long it takes me to do this is to give you guys, if you are building along at home, a more realistic expectation of how things are going to look like I'm. Getting it done for a few in a few minutes.
On video, it may take you an hour. It took me at least 20 minutes to get these two together and to get these pins in place properly might have even been closer to half an hour all right, so once these brackets are in place. All I want to do is make sure I can line up those two holes of the pump motor it's going to go to these two receiving holes right here, I'm, going to use a couple of em three sixes to get it installed. Wait that can't be right! This doesn't fit there, it must be on top, then no cuz, it shows it in the book differently. Let'S see in the book goes to those two holes. It goes to that. It looks like it does fit, but I don't see anything that's a riser on that piece. What am I missing? No it's, just a it's, a cross section of the tank area, so don't it doesn't show the tank. It shows it just lining up there, but when I go to oh, ok must be these two holes right here that yeah my bad that's, what it is. Okay for those screws. I use the lock type 5 4 5 thread sealant for hydraulic fittings, not that it's necessary. You can get away with just normal blue loctite if you want, but I just use that, just as once I start getting into the hydraulics and knowing that this is all going to be vibrating, I make sure everything is locked down real nice now.
Speaking of this lock type 5 4 5 I'll try to find some and put it in the video description box. This leads right into this distribution block. Look at this 2 m5 nozzles right on the end here or fittings. Does it say they call them nozzles in the book? Then you got these m3 fittings or nozzles as they call them in the book. You actually have to build this each one of these fittings. I made sure to put this lock tight thread. Sealant on there. You do not want any hydraulic fluid leaking around in there. You want to make sure that all your fittings are as secure as possible. Now that is, step number six, this I'm going to go on to step number seven, where it just basically shows you cutting the steering horns for the three servos that you're going to be installing these are the micro servos. Here is the hydraulic block, so each one of these servos is controlling a flow valve right, so there's three different valves and they have to have an in and an out. This is what controls the Rams going up and down or left and right then we're going to be installing this block into, or pardon me on to the back of the of the loader now let's go over here. Here is the block in case. You guys are wondering you haven't seen it I'll be slicing that out that opens so you can see it and then, of course, here are these micro servos that already come with the kit.
Please don't assume that when you see this hydraulic block that these fittings already have sealant in it, I would always encourage when you get your new stuff to take it apart, make sure it's properly sealed I don't mean take apart the whole block, I mean just remove The fittings here use a use, a small wrench and get them apart and make sure to use the thread. Sealant very important, so here is a little handy unit. If you don't have one of these in your arsenal, you might want to get one. This is a servo centering, a little chip, basically and dial. This allows me to Center servos before I install them. Why is that important? Well, in a hydraulic valve block, you want to make sure that all your your valves are closed and none of them are slightly open, or else you know. When you go to move your machine, it will kind of have hydraulic, bleed back and it'll. Try to bleed back into the hydraulic tank and it won't hold its position, so you always want to make sure that all your servos start the same. This does not come with the kits I'll. Try to find one somewhere and put it a link down in the video description here is all three now I can either manually change the horns by just moving this dial left and right. You can see I'm doing that here or if I want, I can set them just to cycle for me, so I can see them all moving if I'm testing so there's one.
Yes, all three of them plug in at once, acting in unison and then, if I want to reset them all to neutral, I can just set it right into the center and it does it. For me, all I'm doing is just plugging this into a small battery source and all three of them can be done at once: unplug the battery source, and they are all centered you're ready to go. So the horns are gon na slide into these three, and these three are gon na. Be what open and closed the valves of the block itself. So you got to cut the horn so that they're flush with the sides of this circle, like that two of them have the steering horn in. I trimmed this one just to show you you can just drop it in then. That way, all three have the steering horns in there. That way, you know where neutral position is you see on the valve block it's got a flat spot on each side, go ahead and drop each steering horn onto the flat spot. That coincides with the proper steering horn once those are in place and you're pleased with what you see you make sure that there's no binding going on all the way around and you're steering horns are short enough drop. All three neutrally placed servos in place and cinch them down with screws, and this is what your completed valve block will look like. If it's all sealed up, everything is done now, I'm ready to install it on the back.
But before I install it on those sweet little holes, I got to point something out, because this is going to be very complicated for some people and I could understand why so I'm going to try to go through this very quickly. There are two sizes of pipe large and small going into the distribution block that we built earlier, which would be this part right here. This distribution block, which is when we built it it's not attached to anything. Just has those remember those four nipples on the end. I'M allowed am, I allowed to say that you're gon na take a look at this. Look: how cool look, how steep of a curve that is to turn and Bend these plastic tubes well that's a bit of concern there, pressure tubes, so what they give you is this like spring, like material that can go over where you're supposed to bend it and It will help it from crimping as bad or kinking up as bad. Now I have already gone to havewhat yeah right I've already hooked it up now. Did I make this? Go the entire length, this extra sheathing on the outside? No, I did not. Could I? Yes, some people would say that I screwed up, I don't think so I don't like it all on there. I only like it in certain areas, but you do have enough to use it all. You want before you mount this up, which is what it calls for.
In the book before you mount this up, do yourself a favor and do your tubing because doing the tubing, while it's already on the back very challenging, because you got to heat it up. You got a cinch these tubes down. These are the large diameter tube. That goes to the actual distribution block itself and then you're going to be using the smaller diameter tube. Okay, dudes I've tried to do this part of the video like 10 times, for you just to make it not mentally mind warping so I'm not going to do a whole lot of talking, because I find it's just more confusing than anything. But the valve block has an in and out on the top right. This is coming from the pump and is distributed into the block. This is the return which will go back to the tank when, when we don't need to have the oil filling up the Rams, the oil is in and out or open and closed by the valve, lock, which goes into the distribution block which gets fed into the Coinciding Rams that is asking for power now remember, because this is articulating back and forth, which means these are the Rams that turn the machine in the middle to turn to make it go the direction that you want, while one area is filling up, when this Ram Is filling up, this Ram has to actually have the fluid go back down and out so it's forcing fluid from the other direction in here right.
Does that make sense when this is actually being forced to be pushed up? This one here is being forced to be pushed down, so it goes back to the tank and returned. I know it's complicated. Yes, it is you'll, see here from my final move. I did install the block onto the chassis. There is the from the pump and then to the tank, and then here is that first channel that runs all the way down into the distribution block in through the front its in through the bottom and then distributed up through the top. The two outer ones going to the top of the Rams, which you can see right here – the two outer ones going to the top and then of course, the middle ones here criss crossing to go to the two inside receivers for the hydraulic tube. So there you go all my friends. It is a very arduous task and although you did not really see me doing those that tubing, you can see it's a very small area where big hands do not do well with small parts on camera guys. Thank you. So much for joining me today. I hope I've earned a light. Click from you today or maybe even you've left me a comment. Are you excited about this project? I know this doesn't really look like too much. Does it no it doesn't but I'll, say in the next episode we're gon na be getting into putting on some of the more major body parts we're gon na see this thing come together more and more every episode, so my friends, I'd say if you're not subscribed Already make sure to do so, so you can become alerted and if you speaking of alerted, have you touched that Bell beside the subscribe button? You have to actually ask if you or you actually have to us, indicate if you want all notifications, or just some of them, make sure that you update your settings all across your network on your Mobile's as well.