We have an f4 flight controller on here: 20 amp, ESC s and 1204 6000 kV motors and I'm running the HQ two and a half inch props. This will make it awesome on acro mode, so we can go up and do this power loop right here on the playground, no probs it does nice beginner, easy style flying or some extreme acro stuff. Either way you want to go is 88, so let's go ahead and get started with the build first things. First, take everything out of your box and get it ready for your build you're going to need a soldering iron, a solder sucker, possibly and we'll go ahead and start out with the frame here and the esc s go forward just like that. There is an arrow on there telling you which way it goes and the motors plug in, but these standoffs were just a little bit too tall for me, so I use some shorter ones that way it doesn't bend or break off of the frame in case of A crash and you're just going to go ahead and put your screw through for each of those standoffs. One two, three four all the way around right here, pretty easy to do. No salt required right there, you're just gon na drive those in turn, nice and firm. Don'T over tighten them, and it sets on just like that. Now we're gon na screw on one single nut on the top, and now we have much less clearance they shouldn't bend and break off.
At this point and it's gon na give me a little more clearance when I put the top stack on for my receiver in between the flight controller and the ESC. So now, we're gon na use blue thread lock here for the motors go ahead and shake that up dab a little bit out, get some one, the tip of your bolt and go ahead and run it through we're gon na do the first one leave. It kind of loose because we're going to move this I'm gon na make sure that this little collar right there doesn't rub on the frame, make sure it's absolutely centered. Now we'll do the second bolt there and we'll go ahead and tighten both of them now and just take your time don't over tighten these you don't want a strip that looks pretty good there. So now we can deal with the wire and we're gon na twist. This up to shorten this wire just a little bit. You want to make sure that those are pins up when you plug them in so this will be motor number one it's also nice, that they include tabs on there. If you ever decide to put this on a different build, you can solder directly to the tabs, but that looks pretty nice now. They should all four look like this. Once you're done just check out your work after you're done with each step now, we're gon na put on the XT 30 and positive here and negative on this side, go ahead and grab your capacitor negative on that side and that's going to be positive, not labeled.
Just bend those down with a pair of needle nose pliers and push them straight through those holes right there make sure it's not touching the frame on the other side underneath there so go ahead and add some solder on there. First, before we put on the battery cables I'm, just gon na do each side there and try not to hold it on there too long, because sometimes these little tabs will separate off of your es es and that will completely destroy it. So that's, looking pretty good there, nice hold now we're gon na go ahead and tin up the XT 30 leads a little bit of solder, make sure you see it start to bubble, and then you know it's hot enough. Now I like to heat up the wire first before I touch it down to the tab. Some people will do this in the opposite fashion, but I find that I have less tab separation from the es es or a flight controller. If I do it this way wire first, because it is a fairly big wire and it takes a lot less heat to separate that tab. So now it does look good, give them a tug and tuck them. Underneath your frame just like this and next we're gon na twist this cable just one time and then bring it out the back just like that now take your zip tie, push it back just a little bit, and this will keep it from separating off of your Es C's, if you have a crash and your battery gets yanked off, this will save your yes, the terminal tabs won't get pulled off now, go ahead and snip that off that looks pretty good.
Nice, nice and clean pretty easy. Now we're gon na put the ESC harness on there so again, pins up configuration there just push it in, and that goes in the front. We'Ll just tuck that under later now, it's time for your receiver go ahead. Grab this cable and we're gon na snip off this side. We don't need that servo lead now we're, just gon na pinch. These off should have a couple millimeters of wire exposed right there and they're gon na go on just like this, so signal 5, volt and ground now we're gon na tin, these up because they have no solder and yet go ahead and just put a little bit Of heat there and now we're gon na go ahead and put our signal wire on first. That would be the S bus wire and now the 5 volt and now you're gon na Sauter up your ground wire and give that a tug when you're all done, and it should be good to go that's an easy part. Now we need to go ahead and bridge the S bus side of these three tabs right here and I messed up right here. So I used to solder sucker and what I did was. I just went ahead and put a whole bunch of solder on here, hit it with my solder sucker and look at that perfectly back to normal and now trying to bridge these two left pads. It is quite difficult to do, but it should look like something like this when you're done that way.
Betta flights gon na recognize your s, bus receiver, otherwise your receiver won't be noticed and it won't be noticed inside by a flight and you'll have no channel movement and your Maps. So now we're gon na go ahead and put these longer screws into the side of Mike Attucks turbo gos to let me use that front hole right there kind of hard to see. You can use your cellphone to light that up and figure out where that hole is that's. Usually what I do. I just go ahead and drive that in there, but not too tight don't over tighten things it's, looking pretty good there. On that side, I get my angle. I usually like to get my angle before I start really: cranking them down that's. Looking good perfect now, we're gon na bring this wire out front that's, where your flight controller is going to go on those three posts. So the flight controller mounts up inside the camera, canopy and you'll see your USB port. Stick out the side there like that and the USB port is on the bottom by the way, not on the top, should look something like this now we're gon na plug in the camera before we put it up inside there. So now we have the receiver and the camera plugged. In now we need narvi, TX and we're gon na run that through the camera canopy just like that and that's going to be mounted on the backside of that camera canopy.
So now we're gon na plug it into this port pins up, looking good, really nice. Now your ESC, harness should plug into the largest slot pins up again and now you're ready to install your flight controller, and actually this board was on a 45 depending on what you're looking at as far as the arrow goes, but in beta flight everything was zeroed Out and it flew exactly fine and checked out orientation wise, so those three screws there are the shorter ones that I used. I didn't use the longer ones there. Now I got ta figure out how I'm gon na put down my receiver it's gon na go in between the ESC and the flight controller there. You should mount up something like this we're just kind of mocking it up now. Let'S go ahead and bind up your receiver. This is an XM Plus. This is the way you do. It go into your model menu and go to CC FRS guy D, 16, 8 channels. Fine and you're gon na go ahead and press this gold button down with a driver and click the bind button on your transmitter plug in a battery, and you should see a green light. Just like this come up. Red flashing is okay. Now, when you plug everything in it should be a solid green light, sometimes it's too close to the radio. You won't see a green light, so keep that in mind now it's time to check that your video is there so I'm good on my video I've got video we'll set up the OSD and all that a little bit later, but right now, we're just going to Take a small strip of ehb and put that underneath the receiver to hold that in place.
I usually take a razor blade and I peel off that red side and I'm routing trying to figure out where I'm gon na route, these antennas it's not really the traditional way. I would do this, but we're just gon na go ahead and do it front back. Why not I'm not gon na, be like super fancy here on this build? We just want this to be seen by the radio so we're gon na have those facing down anyway. The quad turns will have antenna that looks pretty good nice so now it's time to take these three longer posts and what looks like tall grommets but that's. Just gon na give this camera some dampening now. We'Re gon na push all three of these posts through with a little bit of our rubber dampeners on there. We'Re gon na take three nuts and put it across the top of each post and make sure that the nuts flat when you're screwing it down sort of by your fingers, you're gon na start out with your fingers and then you're gon na hold the nut in Place and use your driver to tighten everything up, that's, looking pretty good so far, pretty easy right, guys, not bad now, I'm, just gon na drive that in and you want to see if those flex a little bit when they're coming down. It should look something like that that looks pretty good nice, so now we're going says here: the VTX another piece of VHB on the back of that VTX and we're gon na peel back that red sticker off the VHB that's 3m VHB, you guys you can get It on the amazon and rolls it's the best stuff in the Hobby, now that's down we're gon na just secure it again with a zip tie and don't over tighten this because you don't want to damage your VTX chips on there and I've done this to so.
Many quads, so don't worry about it just as long as you're, not pressing on that button. You never want one. The zip tie close to that button that button could break off pretty easily, but you want your button accessible, so that's. Why? I did it like this and now another zip tie – and this is going to hold your dipole straight up. We don't want to go back in the props with that dipole. As you can see, I get my heat shrink from Harbor Freight it's about three or four dollars. They might have raised the price recently. I think, but you're just gon na go ahead and put that over top of your zip tie and the dipole – and this gives your dipole just a little bit of extra protection too and I've had some pretty hardcore crashes with this type of setup, and usually it Just spins backwards, and it it just gives it a little more rigidity as well. It keeps it vertical while you're flying so now, we're gon na go ahead and snip that extra piece off there and that looks pretty good so far. Your work should look something like this nice that will keep it nice and vertical perfect. Now we're gon na take another zip tie and we're just going to go around this arm right here, we're actually going to go over the motor wire it's gon na help hold those in place not worried about pinching them don't over tighten the zip tie.
Of course, they should be fine and we can snip off a smaller piece of heat shrink and put it right over top of this antenna wire and your zip tie right there, all the way down to the base of the zip tie and put some heat to It shrink that down and it should be coming out the bottom of the quad just like this and now for the other one. On the other side, all the way down to the base of the zip tie again put some heat to it, we're just about ready to fly guys. This is awesome. One of the easiest builds that I've done hands down so now these are the props that come around with it. They go right turn rear. This is how it's set up left turn from the motor number to motor number. Three is left turn as well, and motor number four is right, turn but I'm not going to use those props we're gon na use the HQ t6 fives, because these are some of the smoothest and nicest efficient props and you can still freestyle and they're actually way Faster than the stock props, you can see they're quite a bit skinnier this old school problem there it's that they believe it was a gym fan. That'S, just gon na eat up a little bit more battery, just gon na go ahead and use I'm gon na use. A little bit shorter, screw I'm gon na crank those down, but not over crank them, because you will strip these motors and the hardware that comes with it.
Just be careful with your drivers, cuz it's, not the best hardware in the world. Let me go ahead and seat that one and I use my fingers usually to put them in and find the spin the prop around to find where the hole is for the bolt and then go ahead and screw it in. It. Looked like this finally it's looking pretty good here – and I forgot to put my strap in don't forget to put yours in – I did get it through there eventually. Now here is my Twiggy XL. Next to my ishita, hero 89. Look at the difference man! These are these canopies look very similar, it's kind of plain it's, like a little brother to the twig XO. Now let's go ahead and put it on the scale and see what kind of weight we get quad. First without the battery 88 bucks man. This is awesome. 74 grams and with the three s 450 118 grams, not bad seen so let's go ahead and do some beta fight guys. If you don't want to watch this part that's fine, you can skip to the flying at the end of the video, but this is for my guys, who need some help. So orientation first left right forward and back make sure that when you tilt your quad around it's, showing you the proper axis there, because your flight controller could be out of whack, is it one uart one right there that should be open there and let's go to Configuration now we're gon na uncheck barometer don't need that leave accelerometer on all this up here looks good motor.
Stop needs to be off just like that, and we can change the arm angle to 180. In case you get it stuck in a tree. You can power it back up, and this looks good here, it's set to SBUs already. Otherwise. I won't see your receiver because you have an XM plus on there. Telemetry OSD anti gravity, all that stuff. We want on and I'm gon na, go ahead and turn on or Ike set and lost for an ESC type of beeper you're going to go ahead and sit. Save and reboot we're gon na come back into beta flight and let's, see now let's go to the power and battery tab, we're just going to turn this down to 3.1 because I don't want it squawking at me. When I do a punch out on the battery sags, that will sometimes start beeping, midair and failsafe is set to drop yes now, we're gon na go down to pids we're gon na leave those absolutely stock. I'M gon na put the CLI dumping them down in the below in the description for you guys now. This is out of whack. If you see this it's set to tee AR and that's not correct for my particular setup, so I'm gon na go down here to this tab, I'm gon na select our first guy right there or free sky. However, you like say it now should say a ETR. Now, hit save and watch what happens? It changes my channel map, so now everything should be moving right, throttle y'all, roll and pitch.
When you also have to check your switches, you need to setup three switches in your radio, usually to fly my first one's gon na, be my arm switch in my third. My second was gon na, be my modes and my third one's gon na be my beeper. So this is what it comes, stock setup like and you can grab and move these little tabs and you can drag it by the middle in case you're confused about that so that's gon na be awks, and that is my mode switch. It knocks. One is my arm switch that's, usually the big switch on the left hand side of my radio. So now everything is moving around good good. Looking good there now, I'm gon na add that beber, the esc beeper, because it doesn't have a physical beeper, so we're, just gon na have a charm from the esc s, and this will work if you do it just like this. That looks good. Okay, if you need to go back and check which one is aux 1 or 2 or 3, just go back to receiver tab and make sure these tabs match up when you move your switches so now we're going to go to beeper, we're gon na add a Range there and set that to aux 3 we're, just gon na scooch that over all the way to the end, there it's usually the third position down one two three across in third position: save that and now my beepers active.
So if I lose it in the weeds now I have a little beeper on there now we're gon na go to OSD and we're gon na add a few things here. A lot of the times I don't use the warning. I usually turn off the warnings online, but I like battery voltage number one because everybody needs to know what that is now it's, just uncheck warning and you can also add craft name we'll talk about that in a minute. First we're gon na do fly mode just like to know if I'm an attacker or stability, and usually I have both on a quad. If you're a beginner, you can start out with stability mode and by the way stability has its own node there in the modes menu. But acro is not labeled there. So if you're, adding acro acro is just free floating inside that modes tab. So once you go off the end of say, you're, your little gold button moves over to the next position over and it's free floating. That means you're in accra mode kind of weird. I know now we're adding the name of the quad and that's the craft name. You go to the configuration tab there type in the name of your quad and I'm, just gon na put tyro 89 on mine, I'm gon na save and reboot and come back in and now when we go back to the OSD. You should see the name of your quad they're, not Kraft, name awesome.
You can also go into the fonts menu and you can change the font inside your OSD, which is cool I'm. Just gon na make this bold here now: press upload font and now I'm gon na see more of a bold font. All my quads OSD, a nice so it's gon na take me back in I'm gon na go back to OSD and you don't see it changed here, but once you plug in a battery you'll see it on your goggles. Now let's go to the CLI and we're. Just going to check the version on flight controller, nice, maymay tech, I believe that was Mae Tech and now we're gon na do a dump for you so type in D, um, P and D. The NP would give us all of the settings that we just did on this quad. So I'll put this link down below you. Guys can copy this and paste it into your Tyra 89 and then hit save and it'll save all these same exact settings in yours. We'Re, just gon na go ahead and save it to a file there and I'm gon na call it tyro. Eight nine I'll save that to a Google Doc Drive for you guys so that's. Looking pretty good now about usually takes me about five to seven minutes to set up a quad and beta flight, pretty quick these days compared to what it used to be like so now, I'm, just going to do a quick motor check and you need to check Each motor – you can put a problem there, but I wouldn't do that.
I would put like a little flag on the motor and then test motor one motor two motor three and motor four needs to be right. Turn rear. Remember right, turn, rear, that's. What we always say check all your motor directions and I had motor number actually motor number one and two were reversed, so you need to download Bo heli configurator, make sure you close beta flight first or otherwise. It won't open properly. So now, we're gon na go ahead and connect you're gon na need to plug in a battery and hit the connect button here go ahead and go in once you click that button you'll see these four tabs here and what you want to do for ESC number. One is reversed that one and we want to reverse number two so now: we're gon na right click, the right button and now it's gon na write it up at the prompt. When you see it's, finished you're all done and when you disconnect your quad will restart. So now, hopefully, you have a quad that works and I feel like we accomplished something today, so let's go ahead and see what 88 flies like we're gon na start out on a 3s battery. But my problem with this 3s battery was that yeah it's brand new, but it was from a company that doesn't really make batteries and this battery sagged out big time. I had the same problem with another battery that I got from this company I'm, not gon na name names right now, because you guys aren't really buying these batteries.
It was just pretty much a test battery, but we're gon na fly it anyway, even though it's sag down to 11 point one volts. This is about the performance still, even though it's sagging that you can expect you can power loop, dis, quad on a 3s battery and it's actually faster than I thought this quad would be especially starting out on 3s, but I've flown similar 2.5 edition style quads before In the past and in this playground it is quite awesome. This is a great form factor for some playground. Flying I'm also gon na test out a 4s battery and we're gon na see if a 4s battery will cause the camera to jitter and give us some bad vibes and we'll see how good the tune is on a 4s battery, because sometimes high higher voltage like That will will cause some issues with the tune. It might be tuned just for 3s and not 4s, but the good thing is we're gon na find out about that, but on 3s it flies great, and this battery is just about done. I really need to bring this one in and put it down, but so far my first impression is that it's very capable. It feels like something that I bought as far as a binding fly that I may be able to got from similar companies like happy model or diatone. I also like to mention that no longer the motor wires are those cheap plastic coated wires are actually nice and silicone wires on these motors now.
So, thank God for that now we're on that 4s battery, and you can expect probably about three and a half to 4 minutes on a flight. If you fly like me, you'll get probably three minutes flight time and I'm gon na put some batteries down below. For this particular quad I'm running this one from 550 milli amp up to about 650 milliamp for my testing, and that was that was the good longer flight time. The 650 is more of a cruiser battery. The 450 to 550 range is gon na, give you more of a freestyle edge if you want power to weight and not feel the battery as much when you're flying it and now we're in stability mode. I just wanted to show the beginner guys that you can put it in stability mode, and this is honestly, where most view beginner guys should start out with flying your quad in stability mode. If you push the stick to one side or the other, it won't flip. The quad and you can actually kind of slow your quad way down and be able to do things like this. You can slow the quad down and really make some small gaps now. This quad does not have prop guards so flying through here. At my own risk of my propellers and by the way these are beautiful, propellers et6 fives, there are my favorite most coveted 2.5 inch prop right now of any prop in the industry.
This is the one I think I only have like four sets of these left and I hope HP's listening so they'll send me another bag of these, because I put them on every single 2.5 inch quad. So far, at the end of late 2019 and now, 2020 and let's go for that power. Loop coming out a little bit high there, but back under and through very capable this quad and it just it turns on a dime. The accelerations great those 12 series motors are pretty hopped up, and so I feel like I had the best of both worlds. Here: I've got sort of a beginner style trainer or a fast rip and dip type of quad. I mean this. Quad is beastie fast and again. It reminds me of something that I could bind the fly, but I built it myself and if you build one for 88 and yours flies like this on the stock bids, I think you're gon na be pretty happy with it and reviews so far. Five stars on that good and a few other places this was probably it's. Definitely one of the best eating sort of DIY has half DIY quads that they they have out there and I say half because you only had to do a little bit of soldering on this one but yeah taking some of those chances there and feeling this quad I'M really feeling it so I think it's good it. It is definitely a thumbs up.
I wouldn't say it's two thumbs up, I would say it's a thumbs up on my channel and here comes security, school security about to kick me out so guys so that's.