3 pilots TUNE the same FPV Drone
I heard that they want to have a bunch of pilots, tune the same pod and see who tunes at the best, and I think we all know who that's gon na be. I thank you well Alex. I was thinking Alex. This is the rotor riot HD one frame, and it is the rotary spec bill with the DJI HD fpv system in it, and you know what that means. We got ta get rid of this. All analog beat at nom keys, can't fetch. I love you so it's probably easier to tune from my HD, so this mean we're gon na find out. I think I don't know tune. So this is gon na be an experience. You'Re gon na just you're gon na work me particularly I'm, not big into tuning at all like I've, never turned to quad a fly flight one and you don't have to tune that stuff. But today, Barwell is gon na teach me how to tune a beta flight. Quad here's my dirty little secret. I don't do near as much pin tuning as I once did, and the reason for that is that modern, quads, I'm, sorry to say, it's, not just flight one. They all point one kiss beta flight. They all fly better. You could debate which one flies the best they all fly, pretty damn good, even on the default. So why does everybody spend like multiple hours tuning claws like I got so perfect to know some people really need just that.
Laugh let's say that the defaults that gets you like an eighty eighty five percent good tune, but that that last little 15 percent makes a big. Do I work for it? You get great results without pit tuning because flight one is so good that's because you're so good, oh you can do that. You just add different mistakes. So does that matter as much as say you turn a Claude out to your ninety, your extra 15 and then you've reckon into a concrete wall still flies. What is everything gon na be that to be relevant that's? Why a lot of pilots, especially freestyle pilots, don't? Really reach for that last nth degree of tuning, because if you get that last little bit of tuning out and then you bend a motor, they can change everything and you you aren't at that 99 percent. So so maybe it's not even worth it. Maybe you want something a little more resilient that's why I don't racers handle this by just building ten of the exact same quad. They tune one of them and then they all fly the same. That makes I know here's do that too now, let's see the first thing I do is I start trying to tweak the filters. The goal with filters is to have the least amount of filters you can, while still having the quad fly. Okay, okay, you can tell you don't have enough filters when you got hot motors. If you the quad, tries to fly away to the moon, you need more filters.
Every quad something a little different, but if you want just enough, but not too much so we'll go to the pitch hitting tab and then we'll go to the filter. Cities, tab and the good news is, and beta flight 4.1 to make it easier than ever. There'S. All these different settings that you could tweak button rather than trying to make you tweak each of them individually, there's, just these filter sliders and basically, as you move the filter sliders to the right, we got to a less filtering and you quantifies better how's. It fly better, mostly propwash. Isolation gets better they'll steer between the gyro filtering in the d f d term filtering most people should just move these two together: okay, it's, just lockup don't don't, move tec, gyro and what's a one in the dieter, the other, the booth I'm. Not even sure. I could fully explain when you should tweak one versus the other one of those filtering the gyro data which all the gyro data gets filtered and then the gyro data goes to the P, the ion the D term, and then the D term gets additional filtering. I don't overthink it and I think you get good results. You'Re gon na move these, maybe one or two clicks to the right. So it starts at one point. One point: oh we're, gon na move into one point: two we're gon na fly, the quad let's see what you got mr. Joshua.
They prop why's. She here any paparazzi anything here we got ready. I saw a wobble there, let's see a throttle yeah. I draw the motors hot: are they cool? Is the quad kind of making that rough sound of the motors or like mmm, not salacious, gon na sound clean right? Any of that stuff means we got to stop and do you tune the Moosey off sound and feel this? Definitely you can tune this with black box or there's another tool called Pig toolbox that lets you really dive deep, but the end of the day, hot motors that's, the sign you need to stop. The other thing you can do is you can do this tuning with a set of beat up props, that's, gon na add additional recreation that way, if you crash out until in the field that way it won't change it you're tuning up to yes and you'll, be Safe, if you do this tune with clean props, and you tune it to the edge, then, when you try to fly a beat around you're gon na burn a motor gotcha, so I'm, just gon na keep working these to the right and test fly in between each One, it does do one key. You see that sounds like wobble there yeah whenever you every part is different, so I definitely saw a little bit of wobble. They could because it's windy, the wind is blowing it around can be tuned a little further, I'm sure.
Okay, a little warm yeah, they've borderline hot. I agree so here's a rule of thumb. If you pinch the motor and it feels kind of hot, but you can keep pinching it that's, probably okay, if you pinch the motor and you go that's, probably too hot, and if you're like work with your hands and you got calluses on your hands or if You'Re a chef and you just got iron hands, use your lips. I know this sounds dumb, but your lips are really sensitive. Just touch the motor to your lips. I'M. Not gon na. Do that because the battery's plugged in and it's plugged in just touch the motor to your lips and press the arm button and then you can tell if it's too hot? Are you gon na start? Getting warnings like this may cause flyaways motor damaged? In my experience all the quads I build, I can move the sliders all the way to the right and they fly fine. Now. Why is that? Why would that different between you and someone else's cross some of y'all building some jinx? If you build a clean, build with, you know, smooth motors, you got all your screws tight. You got your flight controller soft mounted, it's all good, but if it's your first build and you're not building quite to that standard, you may have mechanical problems in the quad electrical problems in the garage, so don't get too in depth into that. If you're not sure about your build, you just keep working it to the right one step at a time.
When I build him, I feel pretty confident get aggressive with it. I go all the way to also because you know what you're looking for yeah so then you're not gon na, be able to move them all the way to the right until you go up here and enable expert mode once we do that, we can keep going And in fact, what I like to do is hit this gear and I will permanently enable expert mode, so I just don't have to keep it don't. Do that at home guys, I feel, like I've, never really used being a flight, but I feel like that's cool for people that aren't really know exactly what they're doing they don't. Let you take it to that. Breaking point that we were talking about earlier. It really depends just as long as you go slowly and don't just take those sliders all the way to the right all at once. You should be fine, you should be okay, okay, yeah it's way more stable now so, okay, so we need a little more. You see that, though yeah there's a lot of wind out there good prop wash handling in the turns that don't, you think, like you, can barely hear any oscillation let's see if the motors are hot, you're warmer that's, starting to get a little a little. Concerning with a bit prop your burner motor, oh yeah, that's that's on the edge, the other thing you should do is when you do your test over right, so you move the sliders to the right.
You say: if you take it out, you go to take off. Don'T just arm and Jam the throttle because that it could fly to the moon it's easy to ease into it safety first people. So we work these sliders as far to the right as we can get them without getting hot motors and in the quads. Flying is pretty much as good as they can get. The other thing I'm gon na do, if I'm still having some propwash oscillation, that I need to solve. I'Ll go to the pin profile, settings and I'll start working. The D gains up a little bit: okay, maybe up by five at a time. Okay, you can do that with the sliders I'm, not as big a fan of these sliders, because, like let's say, I want to raise the D game well, the only actual way to do that is to raise this PD gain slider and then then move to go Low or the PD balance and that's like there's, no slider that just says, make the D gain higher. Okay, a reason for that it's just how they did it I'm sure it makes sense to somebody but now there's a change in the expert mode. No, no that's. All the only difference is when you got expert mode off you, can't move the sliders quite as far okay same thing, though it's gon na limit you a little more with those sliders that's, pretty much how I tuned most of my quads.
I actually seldom end up touching the P, the I and the D I go through a lot of quads I'm, often I'm testing this I'm. Reviewing that I only have a few quads that I build as like my your personal freestyle rig, but I need to be able to get good results on a wide variety of mods and you can compensate for a lot of hid too, and you probably do this. Maybe you don't: do it consciously you're flying around any things that you might experience in your video? So if you got a little bit of bounce back after a flip or a roll, you can just be a little more gentle of a stick and compensate for that. I think that's what it is. I think that since I've been flying, the default tune so long that I already where it's gon na give me the shoes, and so I already knew that. But if I fly somebody else's quad, like I think I flew squad, I was like this thing. Flower is amazing, we're gon na walk through everything that I do with my tune, pidz filters, everything that I customized to get the flight performance and handling that I want. As well as the feel that I want for my style of flying, which is a little more flowy and relaxed, so we got everything set up in the configuration page, mostly followed Bardwell instructions for setting up 4.1 with RPM filtering on an f4 board because it's enough For board, you could overload the cpu, so we aren't maxing out the pit loops and the D shot and all that so rather than running 8k 8k we're only using 4 kilohertz on the gyro update frequency and 4 kilohertz on the pit, loop, frequency and we're.
Also, only using D shot 300 and with bi directional D shot turned on here and our ESC is updated to 32 point 7 or higher we're gon na have access to rpm based filtering. The other things we need to do in the configuration is have dynamic, filter turned on and later will also tune that down, so that it's not kind of interfering with the rpm filter over in the filter settings tab. The most important thing that you want to do is turn on the gyro rpm filter, because we already set up everything else in the configuration tab to support gyro rpm filter, and then you also want to change the parameters of the dynamic notch filters that the RPM Filter and the notch filter aren't working in the same area, what the dynamic notch filter does is it's, looking at the gyro signal and trying to detect noise and automatically and dynamically filter out that noise, the gyro rpm filter essentially does the same thing, but it knows The RPMs of the motors so it's much more accurately and quickly able to detect and filter out the noise it's way more effective. So you don't want the knotch filter and the rpm filter. I want to say interfering with each other, but working on the same area. There are sources of noise outside of the spinning motors, so what we'll do is we'll set up the dynamic knotch filter to filter out the noise that's outside of the noise generated by the spinning motors, so the settings for the RPM filter and the dynamic knotch filter.
Pretty much got them from Joshua bard. Well, I think he got them from the beta flight developers. I don't fully understand what they all do, but they work they're tested. This is this is what we recommend. So you want to have a three in here for the gyro rpm harmonics number, a 100 for the minimum Hertz that the gyro rpm filter will be operating on for the dynamic knotch filter. You want to select low because those lower frequencies that'll be outside of the higher frequency noise of the spinning motors. You want a zero in for the dynamic notch, with percent and that's, going to disable a secondary, dynamic, notch filter, and then we do 200 for the notch, Q and 90 for the dynamic notch minimum Hertz. So, no matter what else you're doing, I would put those settings in as is, and what you want to tune outside of that is going to be dependent on the aircraft are flying and your own preferences. Alright we're gon na start off by flying the complete stock tune, so the stock pit. So we are carrying a GoPro because we're gon na fly with a GoPro, because if we're filming something we want that higher quality recording. But some of the footage that we're gon na show you is going to come from the DVR of the goggles so that you see exactly what we're seeing so, if we're reacting to a vibration or a bobble you're.
Seeing exactly that without you know any without any chance, if they're being like hyper, smooth or something not showing up in the GoPro and it's, pretty it's, pretty good. What I'm noticing is that it it feels like I've, got a little bit of a bobble. Do you kind of see it yeah? Actually it stops on it. It stops pretty good. Oh okay! No a little bit. I need to work yeah I'm, just gon na start off by raising the p value. Now what I'm feeling is like it's, an eye turn thing. I'M feeling, like I'm feeling like a low frequency oscillation as beta fly, continues to evolve. The developers continue to increase the effect of I term while working on things in the background to try to reduce the negative sides of I terms. So I term is how much the drone is going to resist outside forces like wind or center of gravity being off or whatever right. So how stable it is. I term is going to have a big effect on that, so you might be thinking you just raise. I term a lot, but that can make the quad feel really stiff. So with filters and things like feed forward, the developers are hoping to allow you to run very high, I term and get that super stable quad. Without that stiff feeling. I personally think that the quad feels too stiff and that you get kind of weird flight artifacts. So I like to lower the I term so we've got these sliders here for changing the values of the PID and feed forward terms.
And as you move one you can see, all the numbers scale and what's cool is that it's it's essentially set up so that the numbers scale proportionally based on what the developers think they should be previously. You would just have to type in each number individually and if you do that here like if I just put it 50 65 here see, it takes the way, those sliders and it's kind of alerting you that you know hey you're, not keeping things proportionally balanced. The way that we think that you should you don't have to use the sliders. You can still just type in the numbers that you want. If you think that you know what you're doing what I like to use the sliders, because I want to put a little bit of trust in the proportions that are recommended as well as it just makes tuning easier, it makes it easier to remember what I've set Up, I just have to remember the positions of the sliders so essentially remember four different numbers, rather than remembering each number for each axis in each terms, which would be what's that twelve numbers up here that you just have to remember. So the sliders make it very easy. Unfortunately, at this point neither beta flight on screen display nor the DJI tuning interface gives you the sliders. It still just gives you each individual number so it's great, that you still can make adjustments in the field, but it's gon na mess up your sliders.
However, if you do make an adjustment in a field – and you end up with numbers that aren't what you would have gotten with the sliders – it disables the sliders. As I showed you. So what I do, if I'm out in the field – and I absolutely have to make an adjustment in the goggles I'll – do that and then later I'll plug it into the computer and I'll take a shot of what those numbers were reset it all to default. And then use the sliders to get it as close to those numbers as possible. So as you move the slider as you can see how the different terms respond, I mentioned I like to lower the I terms and, unfortunately, there's, not a slider, for I term, I think I think the main of flight developers really don't want you messing with. I term the way that I like to, but you can still do it, but rather than just being able to lower the I term directly. What you're gon na have to do is use the master multiplier slider to reduce the I term to where you want it, which is then I'm gon na bring everything down. So then you have to use these other sliders to bring them back up. So when I'm tuning for my style, the first thing that I'll do is I'll just reduce the master multiplier. Until I get the I terms where I want them to be me, point six or point seven and then I need to raise the P and the D terms back up.
So then we can just use this key and D gain slider to raise those back up. While leaving the I terms as low as I wanted them to be, and then I might want to think about, if I want the proportions of P and D to shift because the and D gain slider moves both those up, and I do think that I want To have a little bit higher P relative to D from what they have at default, so I'm going to also raise this slider and then the last thing stick response gain, because I lowered the I term you don't need as much of that feed forward, so actually Reduce this stick response which might sound counterintuitive. Why wouldn't you just want the most responsive feeling quad, but I've just found that with my style, where I want everything to be a little bit more mushy or loose, because I just want the drone to flow and move kind of gracefully that's. What I end up liking, the only other thing I would do in this area is the antigravity term anti gravity what it does, as as you rapidly change throttle it. Dynamically boosts the effect of I term, and what that can do is stop your quad from bobbling. As you're moving the throttle, so if you've ever experienced moving the throttle abruptly and the quad is bouncing, anti gravity is supposed to combat that, because we've already lowered the effect of the item, you might want to increase the anti gravity term I usually put like 7 Or 7.
5 there Music. That was good. I mean you get it. What do you think right on? I mean on the throttle. Blippi! Oh, come on that's! Oh, you know a good one to do dial test prop. Ah, Danny roll and I'm still still trying to get those down. Since you told me good good I'm still feels like not quite locked in. I wonder if I want to go even lower on my gains, maybe it's the filter. I rarely touch filters yeah most the time I end up leaving filters stock. Maybe I want to decrease some of the filtering, so we can tune the low pass filters. The higher you set your low pass filter, the less filtering that there is because everything lower then that number can pass through and be used as data. So, if you want to increase your filtering, you reduce the number so before we would type in numbers. But again the newest version of beta flight has these awesome sliders and you can just drag to have more filtering or less filtering, and you can see that with more filtering the numbers are going down and with less filtering the numbers are going up. I like to reduce the filtering a bit so we're, going to reduce the low pass filters for both the gyro and the D term and it's generally recommended to just move the sliders together. So we're just gon na drop both of those down to this, so that the numbers say 1.
3. And I found that to be enough filtering that if my quads a little noisy because the prompts are a little dinged up or something's wearing out or whatever I mean you know, we're crashing out there and freestyle. I don't want to have to have the quad pristine to be able to fly well, I want to be able to you, know, bump into something and still be able to keep going and keep going for the trick. So we want to have some filtering, but not so much that we're getting propwash and that the stick feel is reduced and so that's a good compromise. In fact, you could even go a little bit less on a clean, build a hey here's where you start getting the get in the warning. Oh I like this now I lowered the eye games a lot and this is not flying the way I like it. Look at this look at this that's smooth, dude I've, seen the gun. Oh I'm – really happy with this. Yes, I'm! Calling this oh yeah, no I'm, really happy with this tune. Music! Now I get to tune a quad that's, all banged up the garbage. Look how smooth it's still flying I'm, really happy with how the quad is flying now, I think what I was struggling with the most was the default. I gain settings for the newer versions of beta flight. I just think they're way too high, so we ended up tweaking everything we raised, the peas, we reduced the filtering, but we just that was just a little bit.
The biggest change was dumping. Those AI gains way down for me that's. What helps it feel a lot better, what up guys it's your boy alex pan over AKA captain man over in the house, so I've been not super impressed with all the tunes I don't know man. It looks almost the same. To me be honest. You don't know the wobbles are so much gone now. It'S over filter, probably I've reduced the filtering. You know what I would love to see. What you do give the quad to me then put some fresh props on you me, the quad I'm changing a bunch of crap on it. They haven't been very well rounded. They'Ve had really good stick handling, but not so great prop wash or vice versa. Recently, in my personal beta flight experience, I've had a lot of trouble tuning but I've been around some great people who have helped me get my quads to fly. Absolutely amazing there's a lot of great information out there. If you guys go on youtube and search up beta flight 4.1 tuning with the new rpm filters, I'm going to show you my personal tuning step and how I go about tuning this quad right here, I think you guys are gon na love the way this 2. Here flies over anything else, all right, so we're gon na connect here into beta flight. This quad has not been sent up. It'S only been flashed with beta flight 4.
1. So before I do anything else, I'm just gon na go in here it select UART 3. These are all the the settings for your receiver. If you guys are curious about what all this stuff means, there's a whole bunch of other videos out there explaining what all these things do for you guys we're gon na just kind of zip through this part really fast. So we can show you guys the tuning process now with data flight for point one. If you're gon na run rpm filtering, you have to have your eces updated to 30. I believe it's, the 32.7 ESC be Ohio, 32 firmware and also you don't really want to run anything above D, shop, 300, otherwise there's a lot of motor or ESC signal noise in the quad I'm, not too certain about that. But I know Joshua Bardwell has a great video about that. So we're gon na select D shop, 300 bi directional D, shot the motor pulls that's. Actually, the number of magnets in the motor bail most the time it's gon na be 14 so we're to leave that, as is then we're going to go over here, we don't need our AMA barometer or magnetometer we're, also gon na select 4k 4k when you're running Our PM filtering it can't really run over 4k. So, besides that we're just gon na select s bus go down here, make sure our modes on OSDs, on anti gravity and dynamic filtering or on we're gon na hit, save reboot and now we're gon na get to the good stuff, which is a PID tuning.
So so here's what everything looks like as stock I'm gon na go ahead and put in my rates for you guys if you're curious as to what the rates that I fly for both freestyle and racing here, they are right here. A lot of people don't actually understand that rates make a big impact on the way that your quadcopter actually flies if you're really comfortable with their rates, you're gon na fly better and oftentimes it's gon na allow you to fly around things like propwash, a lot easier Versus if you're, not really in total control, becau it's gon na make flying around those things much much more difficult. So I highly recommend fine tuning the rates that's super easy to do a beta flight because you can see the curve and everything like that. Here'S. All of our start filters now gyro, rpm filter is enabled we're gon na leave. Everything, as is rpm filtering, has come a long way in terms of beta flight Bay. Flight in general is just flying better than ever so the quads are gon na fly pretty good. If your quad does not fly well on stock, PIDs like it may have some propwash or some shakes and stuff like that, that's fine. But if your quads making weird noises having weird issues, chances are your PID s are not gon na fix those issues. Your quadcopter should fly perfectly fine as long as it is well built. There was a few areas that I felt like needed.
Tightening up. This is a really heavy quad it's about 800 grams in the pins, in my opinion, our bit too low in beta flight. For this type of setup, so the first thing that I'm gon na do now I'm, not gon na mess with these sliders I'm gon na show you guys what I'm doing in the pins. I know all these pins need to come up drastically. So we're not gon na make many changes we're just going to focus on our P right now. So role is at 42. I know this needs to come up a lot for my personal experience, so we're gon na try 60 right there we're also gon na go to pitch with a quad like this. You have a GoPro. Do you have a LiPo battery there's a lot of weight on the pitch axis when you're moving the quad versus on the roll axis, so in theory, your P gains on pitch should be much higher than they should be on your roll, so I'm gon na select 75 for that, generally speaking, I want it to be about 10 to 15, maybe 20 higher than my roll gains. In a case like this, yo is one of those things that's up for debate. I personally like really really high yaw kids. I don't feel like it affects the way the the quad itself handles. It just makes it a bit more locked in in big sweeping turns and also, in my opinion, a lot of the propwash that I've didn't seem to get in beta flight 4.
1 it's. Coming from my yaw axis, so I'm gon na drastically make a change here. I'M gon na go all the way up to 100 on my Yaqui and we're gon na save this right now, we're, not gon na change. Anything else. Generally speaking, I don't recommend making too many changes at one point, but our P gains I know, need to come up drastically before we mess with anything else. So we're gon na say that we're gon na go out. We'Re gon na fly it right now. Great. Have you tuned this exact setup before I have not? Actually, so what you just like right straight to the no you like just did it all before you even flew it well it's, just because I know what it's gon na be changed, having been tuning beta flight in general lot recently, it was really good. I mean that flame feels a bit loose I'm gon na raise the idle up that's, how fast the motors idle it feels like when I go zero throttle that's where I'm getting this really weird shake on this quad and I saw drew hat even when he his Was fully tuned or whatever so I'm, not sure raising the idle a bit? Usually my idle is considered to be really high, but from a racing standpoint I really like a high idle. That seems to also help a lot with propwash kind of keep the motor spinning and not allowing you to kind of get so low on the throttle chain that, when you pump the throttle now you're starting to get those oscillations and everything that you get with prop Wash so I'm gon na raise the ID a little bit.
Let'S do nine idle of nine yeah that is so high, oh yeah, a little bit of a proper wash there. I know how I can fix that, though way better when I'm going over the trees, though there's still a little bit of a shake. Definitely some propwash on the wall axis, which looks pretty good, sounds good too. You can definitely hear these in there. When I just came in so I'm, just gon na raise role p up just a bit more we're gon na put that at 68 I'm gon na increase my pitch to 85 I feel like, but that all the way down the pitch axis is still feeling a Little bit sluggish there we're gon na leave yah just where it is we're gon na start messing with our D gains. This is gon na help a lot with propwash handling, if you guys are curious as to what these things do. Like I said in the new beta flight, you can leave a highlight over the question mark and it's gon na tell you exactly what these things should do so we're gon na go ahead and go into our D gains pitch. I feel like had a little bit of bounce back and also a little bit of propwash, so we're gon na go ahead and crank that up to about 43, this is a number I've seen actually very common on beta flight 4.1 tunes and we're gon na crank Up roll just a little bit to rig a crank roll up to 38.
Your D gains are too high. You will get hot motors and when we start messing with the filtering you're gon na see that it is really really hard sometimes to keep your motors cool, especially when you're fine new quad like this. So now, we're gon na go to our. I gain zi gains, integral gains really help in win now a good time to go tune. I guess is: when you have a lot of wind, you can basically put the quadrant and angle and see if it starts floating around a little bit, so they also help the quad feel either stiff or loose so high. I gains are gon na make the quad feel really stiff on the controls, but help a lot in tracking and win and then lower. I games are gon na make the quad feel a bit more loose. In my opinion, I think the eye games should try and be as low as possible, and sometimes you don't know what that feels like until you actually try it so on the yaw axis I'm gon na go ahead and increase it, because I can definitely see a Little bit of shimmering, shimmering being where the quad is kind of drifting, a little bit on the y axis and hard maneuvers. So we're gon na crank that up to about 115 and then my role in pitch. They felt just a bit I'm I'm used to flying lower. I gains on role in pitch, so I'm gon na go ahead and go a little bit out of the box here.
I'M gon na try 65 and 70 my role in pitch I games. Accordingly, I think that's gon na make the quad flying really good let's go. Try it right now: Music, there's, some propwash to fight around I'm doing there is I'm just forcing the quad in to propwash flying at one direction, then immediately back the other direction and that's. How you're gon na be able to really see that propwash? If you can get rid of it there, then it's gon na be really easy when you're actually flying the quad around way better I'm still wash on pitch. So now is more on pitch that time around. You were way better at seeing those things like I didn't when, as soon as you said that you saw propwash on pitch and then I saw but before you said, I wouldn't even noticed it. So I think my pitch is gon na be a bit high as well and so I'm gon na lower it that's better let's fly it around a little bit still. Is that weird shape, but it's actually better on the prop wash? I think I kind of helped with the prop wash bit of it but now I'm going to try changing the filters around to kind of remove that last bit of prop wash and try and fix the stick food because it's it's not feeling right right now. So our pins are pretty much there right. Let'S go to our filter settings now.
The best thing about 4.1 is the filtering. It'S super easy to mess with filtering now. The best way I recommend you mess with the filtering is to just use these sliders right here. You drag them just a little bit over increments, just like that, you'll see it's, making the changes automatically for you. I wouldn't necessarily recommend individually play with these numbers, yet just start dragging the sliders and see what that makes a difference on your quad. Generally speaking, if you have too low of filtering it's gon na give you a warning now in a case like that, you could armed your quad and it could take off quad copters. Some need a lot of filtering. Some don't need a lot of filtering the less filtering you have, though the quad is gon na fly much better because that's, oh, I know this quad is pretty well built. Now I watched a joshua barbell video where he talked about how you should set your gyro rpm filter harmonics number to one now. This is just one of those recommended settings that he has and basically, as it reads here and the question worth of number of harmonics promoter, value of three recommended for most will generate three notch filters promoter to only the 36 notch filters. One of the base motor frequency into it, the harmonics Barbeau, has a much better video explaining all this. I just recommend using his setting. Turning it to one seems to work a lot better and as far as the dynamic knotch filters go, so I'm gon na go ahead and put in all of Joshua barbells recommended filters right now in the quad, zero 290 and lo, I think guys with this tune.
Right here, it's gon na fly absolutely amazing. I think the process is gon na be about done there's only one way to really find out and that's to go fly the quad one last time put a fresh batter on fresh props and let's, see how this baby performs Music. Would you do that was our Fitz ending episode? Got it no way, yep masky recovery? I got ta give him that got ta be good at something flying around for a few seconds there. It definitely felt the best it had so far of those last two batteries. So I'm gon na go ahead and call, as is this, needs a lot more time at that motor. Is that you just roasted? I don't know you were the one who roasted getting out of the tree. At least I got it out of the tree. So what do you think who was right? Who had the best tune for me? Well, I mean to be fair. I stole like half your settings, but besides, I think my philosophy behind it. Everything was just I mean my philosophy, I mean I learned from the best part of the reason I feel like my tuning philosophy works. So well is because not only have I tuned freestyle quads, but I have two tons of race. Quads I've seen all the UPS. The Downs tried all the different firmwares and I've learned from a lot of the best at the same time, and I don't really think anyone's right or wrong.
A lot of tuning comes down to how you want the quad to feel for you it's, true, that there is no absolutely objectively right or wrong way to tune. There are guys out there that will spend hours chasing a black box log trying to get the lines to line up that's fine, but at the end of the day, as long as you are happy with the footage you're getting out of your quad and the experience You'Re having while you're flying it that's what really matters there's one more thing I would say about this, and that is that a lot of those beginners get really wrapped up in trying to get the perfect fit tuned. And I would say that, as if the defaults fly better than ever, no matter what you're flying and a beginner, but probably shouldn't, be spending more time just learning to fly than worrying about the tuning. And if you are gon na, give a crack up in tune. We'Re gon na list all of our pits down below, so you can get an idea of you know. What'S gon na fly well, but also at beta flight 4.1. I mean you can literally self teach yourself how to tune of quantity. You have all the sliders there right before you can see immediately. The difference is going to make on the quad, and you have those little question mark things that you highlight your mouse over, and it literally is telling you what this is gon na do when you increase it and what you should expect it to do, and I Think that's super awesome.
I think the future refugee is here in terms of, and I think pretty soon most people are gon na, be able to know quad pretty much just like that. If you are a beginner and you're wondering when it's time to start thinking about pit tuning, I would say the first time you notice your quad doing something and you go. Oh, I don't like that at the beginning, you could barely just get around the field without crashing that's, not when you should be thinking about tuning. But when you do that split s and the quad goes when we move above a woman instead of settling or when you're trying to go sharp around a turn in the quad swinging wide. When you start to notice those things that's. When you should start thinking about injury, we're all flying the exact same quad, the rotor right hd1 build, and that means that if you have that exact same build, you can fly out of hits and we're going to make our kid tunes available to you guys on The website link in the video description like Ahava tune from the banner promoters with the johnny fpv props. I know there will be tuned for vortexes motors Drew's motors. I mean really build the specific set up because it doesn't make a bit of a difference when you change out for sure, and everything like that for sure. If you want our specific Tunes they're now available, which is awesome, you guys can get the same.
Exact experience. Pretty much that we're getting big thanks to Hobby win, because the stack and our bill is a super reliable. That gives me the conference to go out there and push with my quads. I mean I had so many problems throughout the last few years: burning for money, SCS and flight controllers, and I finally found something that works SuperDuper well, there's 60fps sees its primitive bullet proof comment down below who squad, you think, flew the best and remember if you Pick alex he's actually playing my tunes, oh that's, too much for me his filters, his filters slightly adjusted. Let us know what you think who flew the me.