If you dont know what the heck im talking about, this is part of a video series, where i show you how to build this exact quadcopter video number one is linked down in the video description uh. In the meantime, i assume thats why youre here lets get into it, and the first thing we got to do is like secure all this stuff. We cant have this stuff just flapping around, while the quadcopter is flying number one, because itll get damaged and number two, because anything flapping around and banging will cause vibrations. Thatll affect the gyro and will make problems and the capacitor. I know how to deal with because ive done this before ive built this frame before a camera plate is going to go here and then the capacitor will just kind of fit in here and zip tie to a hole in the camera plate. So well. Get to that in just a second after we get the camera done. In fact, i think the camera is the next thing. Weve got to do because the receiver is also going to tuck into this spot, and we cant do any of that until we know where the camera is going to be. Fine next were going to grab these two camera plates and youll notice. There are several different ways you could mount. The camera. Different cameras have different styles of mounting so theres two different sets of mounting holes, the camera that we have has just a single screw hole and so were going to use that to mount it and were going to mount it in this diagonal slit here.

Well, i just went to put this m2 screw in that came with the frame, and i felt the tiniest bit of resistance, as i was screwing it in and if you ever experienced that stop youre about to drive a screw into the circuit board inside your camera. Instead, im going to look in the accessories that came with the camera, there was this little baggie of accessories and lets see if there isnt something in there. We can work with like yes, a much shorter screw lets. Try that all right! So here we go in the diagonal. Yes thats going to be just fine there and again notice plug side up pay attention. Get it right. Put one of the side plates on upside down chimney christmas, no demonitionization for swearing on this channel kids. I still got it wrong because you can see it slides forward and back and as it slides forward, it goes downward and you can see down here, it would get, it would touch the bottom plate and not be able to tilt ive still got it backwards. Ive done it wrong wow. I am really demonstrating uh the wrong way to do this as an exercise for you, so you dont have to go through the same struggle. The plug is on the top and it can kind of shuffle a little lets, put it in place and see how its going to work. Next, i want you to get the long standoffs and were going to use these two screws, the length of which im not 100 sure what it is, but theres, two of them, hopefully youll, find them.

Music looks like theyre about eight millimeters, maybe maybe eight millimeters were going to install the two front standoffs and the reason for this is i wan na see how the camera lens is gon na interact with the front standoffs. You generally want your camera lens to not protrude too much past the front standoffs, because that will help protect it. If you get into a frontal impact, if you you know, if you get a lucky hit youre going to bust your camera lens, pretty much, no matter what you do, but you dont want to stick it out too much, but you dont want it sitting too far. Back because if the camera is too far behind the front standoffs, then it youll see the front standoffs in the camera and thats not ideal. So now that those two front standoffs are installed, we can use these one two three four little slots to mount the camera plates Applause and that looks pretty good to me. Its sticking just a little out in front so we wont see those standoffs but its sticking out minimally, and so hopefully we can actually scooch that back a little bit and we can fine tune that once weve got the system set up, but itll go back or Forth, just a little but thats pretty close to correct, i think: im, okay, im comfortable proceeding, im thinking about mounting the receiver ive got to say its probably not the best idea to put the receiver in between just basically a box of carbon fiber thats, going to Reduce its range somewhat im still gon na.

Do it because its such a good place to just such a its where the room is, and i think that, especially if youre running 50 hertz youll have plenty of range on express lrs. But if you notice that your range is not as good as you might hope, you see that l that lq number starting to drop you might end up rearranging that receiver somewhere else on the quad, like, i guess the back near the video transmitter is the place To be, although i dont love that either we got plenty of room in there, though, for the receiver weve got plenty of room, so double sided, sticky tape, and i want to be real careful when youre pushing this down. You want to kind of wiggle it a little to get this tape to stick, but you dont want to break that ceramic antenna and then the capacitor is going to come down in here plenty of room. There love it im just going to loosely secure. This zip tie and then stuff this down in here and pull that tight. I think im going to use this hole here, because if i use this, one itll just pull it too high and itll come off. And if i use this hole, itll slide down and pull it low and come off. So i think were going to use that hole just making this up as we go folks, oh thats, great yeah, yeah, yeah yeah.

We can just pass that just pass that out here lets see how thats going to work ill. Just have that done loosely and then kind of squeeze it through and well drop this down in there and cinch it tight well see how that goes seems pretty good, see, nothings in the way i mean nothings, pressed up against each other or banging into each other. Its all sort of tucked in there, its nice and secure and as we fly and flip and roll and its not going to go flying around the other thing i want you to check, is that none of these wires are pinched in between any of this carbon. Everything is free, you dont have any wires like wrapped around a standoff or anything thats going to get tugged or snagged make sure that thats not happening next were going to get these m3 by 6 millimeter screws and were going to put the rear standoffs on and If you are paying attention, you may be wondering why we used eight millimeter screws for the front standoffs and six millimeter screws for the rear standoffs, and the reason is that the front takes harder hits youll be slamming in in the front, whereas you wont be slamming Into the rear, as often so, we add a little bit more strength there. The other thing that youll see is that the rear plate is two and a half millimeter carbon and the front plate is three millimeter carbon.

If you pull out a caliper, youll see that thats, true and thats. For the same reason, the front plate is heavier because its going to take more impacts, theres. Another thing i would like you to do, and that is – were going to put a zip tie around this xt60 cable and were going to tie it to that standoff. And the reason for that is that if the battery ejects in a crash and goes flying, we dont want the battery to tug on the esc. The esc, solder pads, can be ripped off in an impact, and so, if we add this zip tie here, then that will take some of that stress and keep us from uh helps save the esc. Perhaps i always put strain relief on my xt60 cable. For that reason, probably flip that zip tie the other way, so it goes up next were going to mount this antenna and well go ahead and remove it from this uh. This is called an sma connector and we are going to need this little baggie here with these two. I guess they look like maybe four millimeter screws and two nuts two m3 nuts and were gon na be working with this 3d printed piece. I am not sure at this moment in time which 3d printed pieces the kit will come with. I assume its going to come with either an analog one or a dji one, depending on which kit you purchased uh.

There may also be a thingieverse album where you can print your own. I dont 100 know that at this exact time. So if there is such a thing ill put a link down in the video description. What youre going to do, though, is pass that through the hole in the print frankly, this is going to be easier if i just pop it off and once its pushed all the way through, it can rotate into position dont uh dont twist on the cable, like I i just did, and it wasnt good – that i did that dont twist on the cable as it can be damaged, but were going to line up the two screw holes in the sma connector with the two holes here were just going to drive those down in Through the tpu and through the connector well im, sorry to say, im a little confused right this minute. I am really certain that these screws cant be for anything else on this build other than this sma connector. But the sma connector that i have got has much smaller screw holes on it, almost like theyre drilled for an m2, not for an m2 point. They are theyre m2 holes, not m 2.5 um. I think that what has happened is that they didnt have the kit ready for me in time for me to shoot this video and they sent me an analog video transmitter uh just that they pulled off the shelf and it doesnt have the same ufl the same Sma connector that youre going to get and thats why its not threaded correctly for my screws.

So what im going to do instead is im going to get these spare m2 screws and these spare m2 washers. That came with my camera and im just going to use them, but i believe that your your antenna, connector will have drilled out m3 holes that this screw will pass through, and this nut will go on the back side to secure it. Thats not whats happening to me today i mean really. This build has gone incredibly smoothly. So far i appear to have is a threaded m2 hole. Thats ive literally never seen that before on one of these pigtails. To be honest with you, at the end of the day, you are going to end up with your sma connector screwed to your tpu, and this is what you want so that it doesnt twist when you put the antenna on you, can tighten this antenna down. Only finger tighten the antenna, dont uh, dont wrench, tighten it because its its easy to break, but its not like easy to break. But if you go in with a wrench, you absolutely can strip it. What youre going to want to do is tighten that down until you cannot easily twist the antenna here. If i loosen it slightly, you see i can twist it, even though this nut at the end is stable. I can still twist it youre going to want to twist that and tighten it there. You go and you might be thinking well just twist it until its tight, but sometimes with the tpu 3d print you cant get it all the way tight.

It feels like its tight, but its just pressed up against the 3d print, its not actually fully tightened down and then with the antenna facing up, were going to come back in here and were just going to press this down over the top of the standoff and Itll stretch and press down and thats, where thats going to go then well come back and we can plug this back in again, thats not ideal. Just look at it sticking up there. I dont like that. You never want to have a sharp kink in a coaxial cable, so thats no good either. Oh thats, okay, yeah thats, fine thats, not a sharp kink. Exactly next, we grab the top plate its going to go on with the lumineer logo up. It does have a top side, the top screw holes are countersunk, so you would definitely do want to put that on the correct way around and Applause well get those camera tabs. You may need to kind of push them or wiggle them a little bit to get them to seat and then were going to grab these countersunk screws and theyre going to go one two three four in the back and then weve got these. I guess theyre four millimeter m3 screws and theyre gon na go one two three four on the front and if you do have a 3d printed gopro mount or something, then you could install that. Instead, i just felt this front standoff rotate when i was tightening down the screws and thats, because i forgot to tighten down the the bottom.

Screws definitely make another pass over this as youre wrapping up and just sort of double check that the screws are snug. If youve been lock tightening as you go, you should be in pretty good shape, but it never hurts to check dont go crazy, dont strip. Anything out be a gorilla. I dont love that i dont love. How close that prop is getting to that xt60 lead, so lets see if we can redo that zip tie some other way like closer to the top of the standoff and make it twist so that it pulls it up instead of pulling it down into the back. Thats good, i also want to make sure its not rubbing up against the flight controller. Like i said, nothing should be touching the flight controller thats going to be in and if we go back and look at the prop we can see now we got a lot more clearance and that wire isnt going to want to go anywhere near that properly thats. What we would hope were going to get this battery pad uh. The purpose of this battery pad is two fold number one. It keeps the battery from digging into the screws now thats, not a problem on this frame, because this frame has countersunk screws, so theyre flush with the top plate. The other thing it does is it provides some grip so that the battery doesnt slide forward or backward in an impact keeps the battery from going places and lets.

Take a look at the camera and see if we can see the standoffs nose. So ive pushed the camera as far back as it will go, and i dont see the standoffs in it. If i bring it forward, dont see the standoff so im going to push the camera as far back as it will go in this mount. The other thing im going to do is give the camera some up tilt, and the reason for that is that if the camera is perfectly flat perfectly flat and looking straight forward, then when you pitch the quad forward to begin flying, then youll be looking at the Ground, so you give the camera. I think a good place to start is about 20 degrees, maybe 15 or 20 degrees of up tilt just eyeball it. You could use the clinometer app on your phone if youre so inclined, but about 15 or 20 degrees of up tilt for a beginner is a good place to start im gon na just dial in that up tilt and then im gon na cinch down on these Screws you may find, after a hard crash, that that angle changes a little bit. I just uh just go in there and put it back out, was oh no thats holding pretty tight. Well, you see right here. You can see the frame just a little bit once i dial in that up tilt, so lets move it forward, im just going to wiggle the camera forward with just a smidge to fix that, and that folks is a fully finished.

Fpv quadcopter.