2022 Freestyle FPV Drone Build (DIY Kit For Total Beginners)
What do you mean? You could just buy a ready to fly and fly it yeah, but youre gon na crash it youre gon na break it and then youre gon na need to fix it unless youre planning on buying a whole brand new quadcopter. Every time you crash, youre gon na need to know how to fix it and the best way to learn how to fix a quad is to build one, because then you go through all the steps of putting it together and you thats the best foundation for how To build repair and maintain your quad, so in this kit we have selected, we think, are pretty good parts, and i am now going to walk you through the process of building it step by step. Thats. It lets. Do it now heres all the stuff that comes with this kit and since the assumption is that this might be your very, very first build? I want to take you through each of the parts and talk about what they are and what they do. The frame is the qavs joshua bardwell edition. This is my own little custom version of the lumineer qavs frame, and i think it is a really good combination of lightweight durability, ease of maintenance and so forth. Here we have the flight controller and the electronic speed controller of the quadcopter, also known as the fc and the esc. Youll almost never hear people say electronic speed controller out loud, they just say esc.
The flight controller is essentially the brains of the quadcopter. It takes all of the inputs from your controller sticks from sensors like a gyroscope and an accelerometer, and it it basically decides what the quadcopter needs to be doing at any given point in time, and then it sends commands to the esc and the escs job is To make the motors spin thats the only thing esc does, it just makes the motor spin, the motors are xylo stealth and they are 2207 in size, which is a really popular size for uh, this type of quadcopter, the kv of the motors that im using is 1800 kv, and that means that they are intended for use with a six cell battery. If you have four cell batteries that you know you want to use, then they are also available in. I believe its a 2400 kv version for four cell batteries. If youre not sure, i would say most people would start with six cell batteries. Today, most people would end up with six cell batteries, so you may as well start there and not waste money, buying a bunch of four cell batteries that youre not going to use. But if you have four cell batteries already that you think youre going to use, you could get the 2400 kv version well motors, not going to do much without propellers and weve included three sets of props. With this kit. They are the jb gemfan 51477 prop and, as you can guess, from the fact that its got my name on it, it comes with a little jb sticker.
These are my personal favorite prop for the type of flying that i do, but dont think that you cant branch out and try other props. In fact, especially if youre getting started in the hobby, i would suggest that you try lots of different props and see how they fly differently and which one feels the best which one fits your budget the best, but weve included these three just to get you started Now, as this is an fpv drone, its going to need to have a camera on board and a wireless video transmitter to send the video feed from the camera back to your goggles, so you can see what the drone is doing and fly it and theres. Two choices in this build series that were going to show you how to build. The first is the dji nebula pro vista kit. This is a high definition, 720p uh system made originally by dji and now made by caddix and its going to be the choice of people with a little bit bigger budget, its just significantly more expensive than the analog system. The analog system is going to have a catex retell camera and the xylo stacks video transmitter, and basically this is going to be like standard definition like old television from the 80s is kind of what it looks like its lower quality image, but its significantly less expensive And thats the main appeal of it were going to show you how to build both and then finally, weve got the controller, and for this tutorial were going to be using the radio master xoro with express lrs receiver or, if youre, installing the dji video transmitter.
You could choose to use the dji controller, there are others you could use, but these are the two were going to cover in this tutorial. The first step in this build is going to be to assemble the bottom plate, and the arms of the frame were going to start with this piece. I want you to note that this piece has these press nuts pre installed in it. It is not the same as this piece which looks very similar, but doesnt have any press nuts were going to take that piece and were going to turn it over? So the press nuts are facing the table and i want to show you how the arms fit onto this piece before i start putting screws in. So each arm has a hole here and its going to go into a screw hole here and theyre going to line up and the arms are going to go together, heres a screw hole here. The arms are going to go together like so next i want you to find this x plate and this x plate is going to fit down in between the arms like so and it you can see. It has two screw holes here and theyre going to line up with these press nut holes in the frame and then finally youre going to have these two little arrowhead pieces and they will go in here and line up with the press nut screw heads there. Now, im going to actually put this together with screws, and it wont all shuffle around like its doing, but i want you to see the final picture is going to look like this, but with screws in it, okay lets start putting it together.
Next, i want you to go into the strip of screws and hardware that comes with the kit, and i want you to find four 16 millimeter. M3 screws theres another pouch with two 12 millimeter m3 screws. And if you open up the pouch of standoffs, youll see that there are two long standoffs which were going to set aside, and i want you to get four of the short standoffs. Next were going to take this plate, which does not have the press nuts in it, and this plate is symmetrical. It does not have a top or a bottom, so it doesnt matter which way up it goes, were going to take those 16 millimeter screws and were going to put them 1. Two three and four were going to flip that over and just set it on the table, so the screws dont fall out were going to put the arms on one two three and four were going to take the x plate, and this also is symmetrical theres no Front or back top or bottom were going to put that in like so were now going to take this plate, which does have the press nuts in it and with the press nuts facing upwards were going to put that over the arms and down through the screws. Let me take a little wiggling and get it to go and then were going to take the four standoffs and were going to put them loosely on top of the screws to hold sort of hold everything in place.
Now at this point, the frame almost looks like its put together, but the arms can flip out, like so and thats what these little arrow hits are for, so the arrowhead is going to fit in here, 12 millimeter screw is going to go through the arrowhead and Into the captive nut and that will provide tension that will keep everything locked into place. Now you may find that you have a little bit of trouble getting this to line up and go into place. It has to be tight, otherwise it wont be doing its job and the arms will be loose. So you may need to kind of wrench on this a little bit and squeeze it like squeeze these arms out to cinch them down and squeeze these arms in a little to cinch them down kind of press on this and try to get that screw to go In you should be able to get it in snugly, but it may take a little bit of work and once thats done, you can go ahead and cinch down on all of these screws. Hey there. Folks, joshua from the future here dont make the mistake that ive made. I want you to see that the x plate right here the x plate, is pressed up against this bottom plate here, thats, not how it needs to be. If yours is like that, youre going to need to sort of loosen everything up and kind of wiggle it and shake it and push it until it moves ill show you how it needs to be im just going to push it here, so its flush with that With that plate – and now you can see that the x plate here is flush with this top plate, not this bottom plate, thats how you want it before we go any further in this build.
I want to say a word about thread. Locker or loctite. Quadcopters are subject to a lot of vibration and stress and, as a result, the screws on them tends to back out, if theyre, not perfectly snug. In fact, its common practice. After your first couple flights and your first couple crashes to go back through with your driver and re snug, all of the screws now youre not going to see me putting loctite on every single screw in this build, because this build is already going to take long Enough for me to record – and it would slow me down even further, but a lot of people would advise you and its good advice that you should lock tight your screws. If you decide to do this, theres. First of all make sure that youre using the blue loctite, because the red loctite is permanent. It requires a heat gun to release it and you just cant, take the screws back out again. The blue loctite is semi permanent and you can back the screws out again, but it will keep them from loosening with vibration. Theres two types, the liquid type, is just a little bit more messy but its a little bit easier to put a nice thin layer of the liquid on there. But i like to use the stick type, its just like a glue stick and you just kind of dab the screw just the tiniest bit as necessary. You dab the screw on the stick, and then you put the screw in and thats what i would recommend you use if youre doing this build, and you want to cover all your bases.
Next were going to install the motors and each motor is going to come with a little bag of accessories. There is one prop nut that is the large nut thats in there, and then there are four small screws that are going to be used to hold the motor on the arm. I suggest you just take that prop nut and loosely install it here on the motor. Just so it doesnt go anywhere orient the motor so that the motor wires come out and down the arm and then just hand place all of the screws before you go back with a 2.5 millimeter driver and tighten them down. Incidentally, uh. If you are a typical american, then you probably dont have a nice hex screwdriver set like this. You may have an old set of allen. Wrenches you know laying around these hex screwdrivers are super nice and youre, going to use the hell out of them in this hobby ill put links in the video description to some kits. You could pick up to get. You started on your tools now, as you tighten these down, be aware that the base of the motor is made of aluminum, whereas the screw is steel, and what that means is that you could easily wrench this with your hand and strip this out. If youre a big freaking gorilla so yet another reason to use loctite so that you dont have to rely on over tightening the screws to get them to stay in place.
You definitely want them nice and snug, but dont go crazy. You can strip it next were going to go back to the hardware that came with the frame and were going to get these 22 millimeter screws. There are four of them now. The mounting holes for these screws are here on the bottom of the quadcopter, and you can see that they each have a press nut that theyre going to screw up into on this plate. The reason that there are two sets of mounting holes is that hardware used on quadcopters comes in two at least two common sizes, 30 millimeter or 20 millimeter mounting the inner holes are for 20 millimeter hardware. The outer holes are for 30 millimeter hardware and were going to be using the 30 millimeter holes, so im gon na take my four 16 millimeter screws and put them into the outer holes and screw them in through the press nuts in the bottom of the frame. Next were gon na go to this little accessory bag. That comes with the kit, were gon na get out these four black rubber o rings and were gon na put those down one on each of the screws and and after that were going to take the esc. Make sure youve got it this side up, not this side up and were going to gently press the esc down onto those mounting screws and as you do that make sure that your blue silicon, they call them gummies theyre for shock and vibration.
Isolation make sure that they are still in place. They didnt like come out in the bag or something and as you press them down, make sure they dont like scooch up out of the esc, im just going to press that down and with the esc in place. You can see the reason that we put those o rings on is to give it just a little bit of separation and see those press nuts stick up just a little bit and we wouldnt want one of those metal press nuts to touch the esc and, potentially Short circuit it and damage it, so you never want your esc to be too close to your frame. Next were going to take the motor wires and were going to lay them flat on the top of the arm were going to use the included. Zip ties to zip tie them down to the arm and well cut off the zip tie with a diagonal cutter. Now we come to what might be the most difficult part of this build for many people, and that is soldering yeah. You see these wires here. You see how theres no plugs on the csc and theres no plugs on these wires were going to have to solder the wires to the esc, and, if you dont know how to solder at all, this is going to be the part where you are going to Need to pause the video ive got a soldering tutorial linked down in the video description.
Go down to the video description watch that soldering tutorial get decent at soldering, or at least not like just your first day soldering and then come back and finish this build. Because if you dont know how to solder – and you just dive in youre, just going to destroy this stuff and waste your money now, this is not a soldering tutorial. This is ill, give you some tips and tricks as we go, but im not going to teach you every single step of the way, because im going to assume youve at least got a couple hours of soldering under your belt. If not more and im going to start by applying this no clean liquid electrical flux, which is a chemical that makes you better at soldering thats, the gist of it and im going to set my iron ive got my iron at a temp of 850 fahrenheit, which Is as hot as it goes, and ive selected, the soldering iron tip that i think suits this work best go watch my soldering tutorial. If you want to hear more about that im going to first tin these pads by adding a small amount of solder to the pads and then im going to cut the wires to length and prep them for soldering down. And what i like to do. When im cutting wires to length is im going to hold them about how i think theyre going to actually run and im going to leave myself even then just about a millimeter or two of extra length, so thats, basically how theyre going to run and then im Going to come in here and give myself just a little extra length, because i usually lose a little bit of length as i prep them, and the wires are going to go.
I got three wires and the three wires from this back left motor are going to go one two three to these back left pads, one two three for the front left one two: three for the front right and one two three for the back right: each motor Has three wires three pads and youre going to notice that i lay these wires down flat and i solder them to the esc, one two: three: by laying them down flat the order that you saw to the wires actually doesnt matter. It does have an effect, but were going to sort that out later and basically all im going to do is lay the wires flat and keep them neat. Looking so that my build looks clean next im going to strip off about two millimeters of wire im gon na twist and then im gon na add some solder to the tip of that wire and im going to solder down the wire and now im going to Do all 12 of these wires three for each motor each wire going one two three one, two three to the different corners ill show you what it looks like when im done – and here is basically what it should look like when its done um youll notice – that I havent quite gotten the length of the wires perfect theres a little bit of extra wire here. Ive pulled the slack here a little bit. I dont want it too tight here, because i dont want to have any stress on this joint, but i did take some of the slack out so its not if these wires are sort of flopping up here they could get chopped by the prop.
I have to say i might if this was my own build. I might choose to put some tape on here. Instead of zip ties, im looking up here, theres a kind of tape i like to use. It is wire harness tape and its very good for this. You can also use good old electrical tape as well, and it can wrap the whole arm and keep the wire down and out of the prop. But zip ties are fine, ive, just sort of tugged it a little bit to take just a little bit of the slack out and thats. What were going to end up with lets. Take a closer look at the solder joints themselves and the thing youre going to want to look for for sure is that at no point do any of the solder joints touch each other. There is no connection between the individual joints, whether that be solder, whether that be a piece of wire sticking out. They are all independent of each other. If you plug in a battery and try to fly with two of those touching, then the best case scenario is you smoke a motor and the worst case scenario? Is you smoke the esc, so make sure that you havent done that and correct that, if thats, if thats happened before you plug in the other thing that we want to see, is that the wire itself does not extend past the solder pad so weve cut about One maybe two millimeters of wire at most, and that is what weve got here, and the insulation of the wire goes all the way up to the edge of the solder pad, and we dont have a big length of wire sticking out this direction.
With no insulation. On it, because again, if those two cross over then youre going to smoke, something if any of that is true, if youre struggling with this, then its time to go, watch the soldering tutorial that you thought you didnt need. I dont want to sound like a school marm lecturing you, but if you cant solder, youre going to struggle and youre going to waste money in time and blow things up, okay, next up the xc60 lead. The xd60 lead is the main battery lead. It comes in the box with the esc, were gon na, have several different components here, weve got a couple: capacitors weve got the wire for the esc were gon na. Come back to that its like. We got a couple extra gummies if we need them, and these are the things that we are going to get out right this minute and were going to be working with and now to help make it easier to solder up the 6060 im going to pull out This omnifixo helping hands tool, its pretty freaking cool ive got a video about it. Thatll ill link that down in the video description too. If you want to check it out its magnetic, they hold their position. They go all around if you dont have something like that. You can get some of this uh, it is called fun tack or blue tack, and it is a kind of goopy blue thing. You just mush it up into a glob and stick your wire in it and it holds it in place.
But im going to be using this helping hands tool. This is an xt60 connector and its the main plug for your quadcopter, and your batteries are going to come with it as well, and i want you to notice that it is marked with a minus and a plus symbol and in addition, it has a flat side And a curved side, the curved side is minus. The flat side is plus, but were just going to go with these markings. The next thing im going to do is im going to take my tool and im going to rotate these. They just their friction fit in there and they will rotate so that they cup faces upward, like so thats going to make it easier to solder to im next going to put some flux on these as always, and then im going to basically fill these up with Solder next im going to take the wires and the wires are pre cut and pre tend, but we can always make life a little easier for ourselves by getting a little bit of flux on the end of the wires youre going to do both ends because youre Going to solder both ends and im, going to add some fresh solder here, because the solder they use at the factory is lead free and its not as good quality, as this good old leaded solder that im using at home, destroying the environment. So be it and then were going to line this up and im probably going to need to press this into place.
Im not just going to be able to use the third hand tool to hold it so im just going to get this ready to go ill. Get my little tweezers out here and im going to complete this joint. Let me turn it sideways for the second one, so you have a better view, looks pretty good to me Music. Once again, we definitely do not want to see any connection between them. Next were going to take this little plastic cover and were going to slide that down and before we pop that on. There lets just take this opportunity to double check that the red is on the plus and the black is on the minus yeah thats. The correct way to do this red is positive. Black is negative and well just pop that into position now were going to need to solder this to the esc and the main battery pads for the esc. Are these two large pads here, but before we solder it down, lets think about where the wire is going to go and a lot of people would run this wire out. The back of the quadcopter like so but theres going to be stuff back there, and especially, if youre doing the dji version of the build there isnt, actually that much room for it to go for the wire to get by it. So i like to run the wire out the side like so, and that i think, is what were going to do as before were going to tin to begin the ground pad.
The negative pad, especially takes a lot of heat before the solder will flow. If your soldering iron is not quite good enough, youre going to really struggle to make it flow were going to add some flux here. Thatll help us a little fresh solder here on the wires before you solder down the xt60 lead. I want you to take two of your cut off left leftover motor wires. I want you to solder them as im going to show you here to the negative and positive pad im going to solder them just to the side and im going to show you what this is for later in the build, and you notice i passed them toward The front of the quadcopter, like so joshua from the future here uh when you get to the spot in the build when you are going to do something with these wires youre going to need to know which is the positive wire and which is the negative wire And you can see right here because theyre all stuffed up in the build, its not obvious, which is which so im going to suggest that you mark in some way like im, going to take a little piece of red electrical tape and im going to mark the Positive wire with that red tape – just so i know which is the positive and which is the negative yeah. If i had just used colored wire, this wouldnt be a problem, but i wanted to use the spare motor wire since i was to never use for them.
Anyway and so theyre, both black and i dont know, which is which mark the positive wire somehow and ill see you in the future. When you find out what were going to do with it and then im going to come in and solder, the xd60 lead and again look very closely here: weve got a minus and ive covered it up slightly, but weve got a plus here. This is the negative on the left and the positive on the right negative is black. Positive is red, and the challenge for this part is going to be soldering on this big 14 gauge wire without desoldering, this little wire that weve soldered on and its going to be a little bit of a challenge for some people. But we just got to figure out how to make it work, and here is where were at next, were going to install the flight controller. Now, if we just take the flight controller and mount it on top of the esc, theyre going to be too close together, theyre going to touch – and just like, i said when i was mounting the esc and i didnt want it to touch the the frame we Dont want that to happen, the electricity could go where it shouldnt go and bad things could happen. So im gon na grab some of these extra silicon gummies. That came, i think they were in the little accessory bag. I think you should have four extra gummies and were gon na slide those down on top of the esc and were going to see if that gives us good spacing wheres my fourth one there.
It is yes now, if youre doing your own build at some point in the future and you dont have extra gummies, you can use something like these m3 nylon nuts uh. In fact, you could even just go, buy a set of m3 hardware or m3 nuts. The disadvantage of using a nut is that its threaded and you really would like them to just slide down on top of the screw, instead of having to constantly thread them down. Now, when you mount a flight controller, the direction that the flight controller is facing does matter, because the flight controller is keeping track of how the quadcopter is moving and how youre commanding it to move. And so the flight controller needs to know that this direction is forward. This direction is left and so on. Every flight controller is going to have a forward facing arrow heres, the forward facing arrow for this one, its a little bit stylized. But it tells you what direction the flight controller thinks the front of the quad is in and if, for some reason, youre building a quad and you need to mount the flight controller facing another direction, thats. Okay, that you can reconfigure it in software, but its a good idea to just do it that way, if you can so were going to identify the front of our quadcopter, and that is this part, you can identify these four cutouts here, which are going to be For the camera side plates and were going to mount the flight controller on the stack facing that direction again, just like with the esc, make sure the gummies dont pop out and then were going to take a look and were going to see.
If we have enough spacing to make this work, hey there joshua from the future with another correction, uh yeah, why on earth? Would you ever need to mount your flight controller not facing forward? Well, one reason is that the plug for the esc is right here on the flight controller, but the plug for the esc is on the front of the esc. Why did they do it? That way, i dont know, but it sure seems like we got to either flip the esc around or we got ta flip the flight controller around and uh of those two i know which is gon na, be the easiest to do. The cable is keyed. It only goes in one way if youre having trouble pushing it in flip it over, maybe as youre pushing it in the wrong way notice what side im putting facing up versus down and then the other end is going to go into the esc were just going To flip over, like this and lets just give this a little twisty twist to take some of the slack out and were going to mount it like this facing perfectly backwards. This asc and this flight controller are actually designed to work together, so its pretty weird that its pretty weird but okay lets just uh get on with our life. Now, joshua from the past is going to tell you how to put these nuts on how hard could it be to put nuts on a screw huh well youll see, and if i take a look here, it looks pretty good theres plenty of clearance there for the Wire thats going in between them, no part of the esc is touching or even really close to touching any part of the flight controller.
I think this is going to work just fine, now theres more reasons than you might think why the flight controller needs to be isolated or separated from the rest of the build. Previously we talked about how, if some part of the flight controller or esc, touched something else, then electricity might go where its not supposed to go, and you would you would fry it or burn it with the flight controller, it has a sensor on board called the Gyro or the gyroscope, and that sensor detects vibration and rotation, and the problem is that the motors create a lot of vibration as they rotate theyre, spinning at like 30 000 rpm in some cases, and that makes a lot of vibration. And that makes the flight controller have a harder time flying the quad good, so thats. Why we go to great effort to soft mount or vibration, isolate the flight controller using these gummies? And then we dont want to defeat that by having something like a piece of wire or something touching, the flight controller from somewhere else and then transmitting vibration to it. And thats why we want to make extra sure that nothing is pressed up against or touching the flight controller and then im going to take a couple of these screws and im going to tighten them down before i forget you can do that by hand or i Have a nut driver that is the right size for these. It is a 5.
5 millimeter nut driver and again its a. I got some tools listed in the video description. If you want to pick them up were going to tighten that down until it just begins to compress the gummy we dont want to over compress the gummies, because that will defeat the purpose of the vibration isolation. So we definitely dont want the flight controller to be at all loose. We dont want it to be at all able to sort of well it cant move. You can see there if i squish the gummies, it can move, but im squishing the gummy. So i dont want to do that. We definitely want it to be kind of snug, but not so much that were crushing or deforming the gummies and defeating the purpose of that vibration. Isolation and again after you tighten those nuts down look between the boards again and just make sure that nothing is crushed or crimped no wires are stuck in there. The esc is still not touching the flight controller, because theyve gotten a little bit closer together and if they were just on the edge before now they may be touching. I know it probably seems like im making such a big deal out of this point. But the flight controller is a huge part of your quad flying well and without trouble and mistakes that people made when theyre building their flight control stack little silly mistakes that they dont notice can make like the whole quad fly badly.
So this is just as important as im making it sound next were going to wire up the video transmitter, and this chapter of video is only going to be for you if you are doing an analog, build if youre doing a dji build down in the video Description and in the timeline at the bottom of this window, there is a chapter, a table of contents and chapter markers and you can go down there and you can skip to the chapter about installing the dji video transmitter for those of you who are doing analog. Heres, the next thing were going to do this. Video transmitter comes with mounting holes and they are 30 millimeter in size. So in theory, you could mount it on top of a flight control stack like this, but you can see theres not really enough room there where, when the top plate goes on theres, not enough room for that stack, thats, okay, theres plenty of room to mount it. In the back of the quad, but since were not going to be using, these were actually you can see. If you look carefully, they are scored and were going to just break them off so im just going to grab it with my little forceps here and just break it off carefully. All four of them were going to break off. The video transmitter does not come with its own wires, so weve provided a set of wires for you in the little accessory bag and there are four wires there: a red, a black, a yellow and a white heres where those go on the video transmitter, the black Wire is going to go in the ground pad and since these are through hole, one way that you can solder them is to just stick the wire through the little hole and then come in Music with a piece of solder and just come under like that.
So here is the final wiring for the video transmitter. The black wire goes to the ground pad red wire goes to the v. Bat pad white wire goes to the sa pad nothing on the audio pad, yellow wire on the video pad and then nothing on 5 volt out or ground thats. The correct way to wire that up. Coming back to our flight controller, weve got pads here in the corner, labeled vtx sa power and ground, and those are going to be for our video transmitter. And when i soldered up the video transmitter, it was relatively easy to put the wire through from one side and then solder on the other side, but for the flight controller, its much more difficult to get to the underside. With the flight controller mounted. So, im going to use a slightly different technique to solder these im going to just basically treat them like they were flat, pads without holes, im going to tin and then im just going to come in and solder the wires down. You see how this wire here is much larger than the pad that im soldering to, and it will either hang off the end, this way with a length of unshielded or uncovered wire, or if i push it all the way here, it will stick out and hang Out the end, this way thats no good. We generally want the amount of exposed wire to roughly be the same size as the pad were soldering to or maybe just a smidge larger, but thats too much.
Let me check these other wires yeah. They all theyre all way longer than we really need them to be im gon na nip them down here and, in the end, what you should have is yellow wire to vtx white wire to sa red wire to power black wire to ground. As far as mounting the video transmitter goes, this is a case where i dont think the kit comes with what id recommend you use. In fact, im not sure it comes with anything, maybe well fix that by the time the kit, ships but im not sure what i suggest you use to mount. The video transmitter is this stuff. It is scotch extreme mounting tape. You dont have to buy a giant 300 foot spool like i have because i go through the stuff. It is a really good, sticky, double sided tape and it can hold that video transmitter in place theres a link in the video description. If you want to pick a roll of it up and before i mount the video transmitter down, i think im also going to install the antenna. I mean that is a connector that its using is called mmcx and the way that it works. Is it just presses in here with a little snap? There we go there, we go then im going to take my double sided. Sticky tape im going to put it on the underside here, and you know im just going to cover up these pads with it, because i dont want them to touch the carbon fiber and turn this over and lets just give this a couple twists to take.
Some of the slack out and were just gon na press this down here, make sure you dont cover up the mounting holes or the standoff holes here in the back, though, give it a little press and a little wiggle and it will stick pretty gosh darn securely Im also going to install this antenna, and the reason for that is that if you power up a video transmitter with the antenna removed, the video transmitter can be damaged. So, although im not quite ready to mount this antenna in its final location, im just going to go ahead and plug it in just in case, like i power up the quad for some reason, i dont want to accidentally damage the video transmitter now its time to Install the dji, video transmitter and camera, and just like i said previously when we installed the analog camera and video transmitter if youre not using dji. There are chapter markers and timestamps down in the video description and in the timeline below this video and you can just skip to the next chapter. The other thing i want to point out is that i have actually finished this build with an analog. I finished the analog, build and now ive taken the analog stuff back out again to put the dji in, and so, if you notice that a few things are different, like ive already mounted this receiver, but you may not have seen me do that yet so its Going to be a little bit out of order for you, but itll be fine! Well get through it.
Im going to take this bag of accessories that the vista comes with and dump it out and were going to get this wire harness and were actually going to need to install this wire harness on the vista with by soldering. It sad to say wish it could come pre soldered, but it doesnt right here on the catx vista are the pads that were going to solder to, and i want you to take note of the order that they go in on one side. Weve got a pad labeled s, bus on the other side, weve got a pad labeled v for vbat or battery input, and the colors of the wires in the wire harness are going to line up with that were going to start with the red wire on one Side and go through to yellow wire on the other side and again, although this is not a soldering tutorial per se, this is a fairly fiddly little piece of soldering, because you kind of have to come in at an angle with your iron tip and you dont Want to be like touching or messing with the rest of the vista, i confess that, since this is intended to be a oh, your first build, i feel like this is fairly advanced soldering for your first build, but just is what it is. There isnt really any way around it. We could use the full size air unit which has a plug, but then the whole frame would need to be redesigned, and i just welcome to the hobby to help me out here.
Im going to add just a little bit of fresh solder to each of the wires, even though they are prepared, theyre pre, tinned and pre cut to the right length. Adding a little bit of fresh solder will just help this go easier and then to make my life even easier, im going to add some flux, some liquid electrical flux, which you certainly own, dont you, if youre so good at soldering, that you dont need to add Extra flux then good for you now, normally i might skip over this section or speed it up because making you watch me solder, a bunch of joints, isnt necessarily the point of this build, but in this case the technique is pretty fiddly, and i want you to See exactly how i do it with the tweezers. I come in and hold the wire exactly where its going to be, and then i kind of come in from the top at an angle and use the iron to melt the solder and hold the wire in place. And im working towards myself, so that i can see where the iron is as and the other wires ive soldered arent getting in the way. I hope this helps you get it uh. It just is what it is, and i wish you the best of luck. If you dont feel confident with it, then i would recommend that you practice more of this kind of joint on something other than an expensive dji video transmitter that you might ruin when youre done.
This is what you should have and definitely make sure there arent any solder bridges between the two pads next were going to install the antenna, and i like to put the antenna on the vista before we mount it inside the quad, for reasons which will become apparent. The antenna goes here and theres this little metal bar holding it down, so it doesnt come unplugged by accident uh and the way that i like to install it is to remove this screw entirely. This is a 1.5 millimeter hex screw and then were just going to slide this out, revealing the connector that connector is called a ufl connector before we pop that down were going to get this 3d printed piece, which is the antenna mount and were going to slide. This through yeah cant do that after you install it were going to slide that through and press it down cool then im going to pop this on and just feel that its lined up and with a little bit of pressure, nope didnt. Do it just try to feel that its lined up and centered just wiggle it around until you feel it line up and center, be careful as youre doing that dont uh twist or bend the connect? The cable is somewhat fragile. Try to grab it by the actual brass connector itself, and not by the cable but thats. What you should end up with next were going to get this little metal retaining piece and notice that it is a small and a large hole were going to take.
The small hole and were going to put it on this pin right here like so and then put that back over the ufl connector like so, and then press down on this side and slide it back. Underneath this little cover, like so back in where it was, and when youre done, you should have this situation where that metal piece is reinstalled and then the only thing left to do is to put the screw back down in and its a little hard to get That to line up correctly so thats why we removed the screw so now were just going to kind of sort of wiggle that screw in and it should press everything into place, yeah its really its really difficult to get that metal piece over the little pin. If you dont remove the screw, so i just pull the screw now that antenna is safe and secure to mount. The vista were going to use these 20 millimeter holes in the back of the frame and they are going to line up with the 20 millimeter mounting holes in the vista dont, get confused and like remove these screws that hold the vista together. Thats, not the holes were using these empty 20 millimeter mounting holes and the simplest way to mount the vista is with double sided tape and the tape i recommend you use is this: it is scotch branded mounting tape from 3m. Its a really good double sided tape. You dont have to buy a big.
You know whatever 100 foot spool like i have get this much smaller one im going to take a double piece of it fold it over. I think that extra thickness helps because theres some texture on the underside of the vista and it helps the tape, stick to it and then im going to put that tape on there and im going to make sure not to cover any of the screw holes. Now. Some people would stick this down just with the double sided tape, and that would probably work okay, but i kind of dont trust, double sided tape itself and i like to back it up with zip ties. The problem is that, if you just put the zip tie around the outside of the vista, you might cover up the usb port or in some cases you would press or even break off this little bind button. So what i like to do is pass the zip ties through the screw holes on the vista by the way. If you have a set of m2 hardware, you could just use long m2 screws and i would recommend using m2 nylock nuts, because the regular nuts will come loose. But a lot of people dont have a set of m2 hardware sitting around so im just going to pass the zip tie up through the bottom of the frame like so and another one here like so and then im going to line up the vista correctly with The antenna and the wire coming out, the back and the camera coming out the front and im just going to pass them through the screw holes on the vista.
I am having a little bit of trouble pulling these through, because theyre just a little too thick. I really should have thinner ones, but im out of them, so im just making do. That is what it is now with those zip ties put through im, going to sort of lower this down and line up the screw holes by looking through from the top with the screw holes in the frame, and when that is placed in position. So you can see through im, going to just kind of wiggle it a little bit to set that tape and hold it in place. Im going to finish pulling these zip ties through were just going to uh lets, see im going gon na put this wire here. So its underneath the zip ties and im gon na pass it down through the screw hole and back through out the underside of the frame you see where were going with this and then im gon na need to twist this to get it to line up correctly And pass it back through here and then well snug that down and you dont need to go crazy. If you make zip ties too, tight, theyll, just snap when theyre subject to any stress, we kind of just want this to provide a little bit of pressure to. Let the tape do its job heres. What were going to end up with? In the end, we got the two zip ties going across the top.
The wire is underneath it and thats just to help keep it sort of out of the way of the battery, strap and other things that might come through here. We definitely do not want to see any tension on the wire here have a little bit of slack. There and then on the underside here are heres what it looks like there, just sort of two zip ties holding it down, letting this tape do its job. You see here that theres not a whole lot of surface area for the tape thats. Why? I kind of dont trust the tape all by itself and, i always add the zip ties: hey there, folks, its joshua from the future here uh. It is like three days before this product is supposed to release and get fpv have told me that they have decided to include some m2 screws in this kit for mounting the vista. Now i dont know exactly what youre going to get, but i want to make sure it cover the bases you can, of course do it just like. I showed you here and in fact, thats kind of how i prefer to do it, but its totally up to you. The screws will be long m2 screws similar to this, and, of course they will go up through the bottom of the frame plate. So if you decide to go that direction, the screw will just pass through the vista will fit down through the mounting hole and then theyre going to give you some of these little m2 nuts to go on top dont.
Let ive just grabbed a random screw. My screw is way too long. Yours wont be that long. I do have to say theres a couple little gotchas. If you go this direction, first of all notice that the vista is not flush with the bottom at the corners. So if you put one of these on and snug it all the way down, you see itll pull the vista off so get all four of them, basically flush and snug before you tighten them down. The second is that, in my experience, this style of nut will always come loose from vibration. So if youre going to use this, you should definitely use loctite. But personally i have bought a box of m2 nyloc nuts. These nuts have a nylon insert the same as the prop nuts and will not come loose and thats. Actually what i use but its up to you. If you decide, if you want to put some of those up and the good news is, we do not need to solder. The video transmitter to the flight controller were going to use this plug right here, just uh below and to the right of the usb connector, and we will just uh get that right side up and plug it in and then finally, im just going to think about How i want to route this wire, it seems to me, like the smart way, to mount the route the wire would be down here behind this standoff and just kind of tuck it down out of the way once your video transmitter is mounted the next thing to Do is mount the camera and as im looking at the camera im, realizing that its exactly the same as the analog camera.
So im not going to do a separate section for that. But one thing you should keep in mind is make sure to mount it right side up, look at the lettering here and make sure its right side up. The cable comes out. The bottom, which i dont know you may not notice that you may mount it upside down, which would be kind of annoying. The other thing weve got to do is mount the antenna and the 3d print for the antenna just presses down. On top of the standoffs, like so but im gon na im, gon na just sort of twist it around a little bit, you dont want to kink an antenna wire like this, but i definitely want to take some of the slack out and see if i can Just yeah kind of like that, i think, is going to be good. I might even have tried to put it under the zip tie. If i was really thinking ahead, oh wait its going to go down. Yes, oh thats, uh thats, not bad thats, not bad at all its going to kind of just tuck in here into this little void space. Here, no kinks good, im happy with that. I dont know if thats a tolerance thing that this might have been printed. A little bit smaller, so it had more friction but im not confident thats going to hold in a good crash its going to come flying out its not a deal breaker, but personally, im going to grab some of this.
This is e6000 adhesive, its kind of like rubber cement or shoe goo, and its really good for an application like this, its not a permanent adhesive. You can sort of peel it off, but it has a really good sort of tackiness and dont dont buy a giant tube of it like this. It comes in these little single use, tubes that i think are going to be much better because i cant even get the top off im going to just apply a little bit of that, and if you happen to have something like that around the house, you could Do the same, yeah use your mouth to open it, thats real, good, thats, real good. All right, i dont think thats going anywhere. I got to get this goop off. My hands now were going to do the camera, and once again, this is only if youre doing analog video if youre doing dji again go to the time a table of contents, the chapter markers either in the video description or in the timeline down at the bottom Of the screen and skip ahead to the dji chapter inside the box that the camera comes in theres, this little bag of accessories and well talk about them more later. But what we want is this wire, which is the camera wire, and we can take the camera and plug that in and once again that is a keyed connector.