$119 Long Range Fpv Quad! – Eachine TYRO119 – Build, Setup, & Betaflight
This is a six inch quad with GPS on board. So I'm gon na walk you through the steps we're going to build up the frame. We'Re gon na slaughter up the esc s to the motors. The flight controller set up the RX, the VTX, the gps. Everything on here, we're gon na get started today and probably the best deal out there on the internet for a six inch quad with gps. So some things you're gon na need it's a good set of your favorite drivers. You'Re also going to need some other stuff. Like your TS, 100 soldering iron that's, going to do all of your Sauter's and you some zip ties. They come in the box as well, and you'll need some steel wool for cleaning off the soldering tool tip also some 3m VHB, which is super awesome stuff, a solder sucker case you mess up and some 6040 solder, and personally I use one of these smoke suckers. This is a more expensive eight hundred dollar one, but you can also get a fan. This is everything out of the box. You'Re gon na have your frame here, your hardware, your standoffs, all of your wires, a capacitor, your camera and your GPS, your VTX, your antenna wire and your antenna there and the motors, as well as the esc, s and the flight controller, that's an F for flight Controller on this particular model, now, first things: first we're gon na go ahead and set up the frame and the hardware – and I like to just organize my bolts into individual piles, make sure all your screws are the same size in each individual pile now on the Frame when you start to build the frame, there are two different size bolts.
The shorter one goes on the outside and we're gon na start with that bottom plate shaped like an X, keep that on the bottom of the frame now we're going to go ahead and grab this. What will be also a bottom plate, but just above that X, plate, looks something like that and I'll go ahead and grab one of your lock nuts and just tighten it down by hand to start with, because we want this to move around a little bit. So we can adjust the second spot here now. The longer screw goes in the next part, and this is going to allow you enough screw to be able to put a standoff on above the thread collar nut. So we're gon na go ahead. You can see there's a recessed part there it's just drilled just a little bit bigger there, so this collar nut can go all the way down flush with the frame. You want to make sure that it's flush with the frame and I'm gon na show you how to make sure that happens. You'Re gon na go ahead and drive it down start working its way down. Now you could take a pair of pliers and hold it just above that collar spacer, where you have enough room for it to go flush into the frame. It looks pretty close, but I might have to tighten it up a little bit more and now that looks pretty good. Now I can work on the second arm.
We'Re gon na turn that to match the other arm there on the other side, make sure you do that you don't, want to have your arms facing all different directions. Now go ahead and grab another lock nut and we're just gon na grab the longer bolt run that through get one of your collar nuts here and go ahead and spin that one down by hand pretty easy so far. This is one of the easier frames to to build up. I think these tyro frames are usually pretty easy. Some of them have certain points where you might have to go back and do things again do things twice. It always helps to pull up the banggood website and just look at the quad before you start to build it. I always helps me with my builds so now I'm gon na go ahead and tighten down that collar that's. Looking pretty good. So now we have two arms on now for the third arm and you can tighten those other ones up pretty good at this point, you'll still be able to slide the arms on now the outside bolt, first we're, just gon na go ahead and hand, tighten that Lock, nut and now we're gon na go ahead and grab one of the collars for the longer bolt there, where your flight controller it's gon na be put into in just a little bit just screw that one down by hand and now we're gon na go ahead And use the pliers for seating that collar nut right there down into the frame and again guys make sure it's flush but don't over tighten these because these will strip these bolts are not the highest quality for 119, but they're on par with some of the other It'S out there so it's a little better quality than what I first saw with some of the tyro series hardware and now the last arm and just go ahead and work that lock nut in there and now the longer bolt on the inside again and the collar Nut let's just go ahead and screw that one down by hand.
Now this is pretty much all there is to assembling the arms for your frame, and the next thing you want to do is just go ahead and grab a few standoffs and put those standoffs on top of those Center bolts with the first one here and the Esc is gon na start out on the bottom and then we're gon na work. Our way up to the flight controller and don't over tighten these because you're screwing metal into plastic guys over, tighten it you're gon na strip it. I believe there was one extra stand off in this kit now or your ESC orientation is detrimental to this build. So you want to make sure that it's facing up like this one, two, three, four and you'll, see it labeled on the ESC, go ahead and push that down. If it doesn't go on quite you can kind of Bend those posts a little bit now. You want three hundred and ninety Celsius on your soldering iron that's around seven to eight hundred degrees, Fahrenheit and we're gon na tin. Up each of these pads. Just put it, you know a good amount of solder on each one. Don'T hold the iron down too long guys because you can have pad separation and ruin your es es that's. Looking pretty good, there make sure you don't burn the standoffs when you're doing that now we're gon na attend the motor wires, because the solder that comes from China on these wires is not the best in the world.
Don'T rely on the solder that comes from the factory there's a little bit of solder, but we're gon na add some good stuff on there. So, and I say good stuffs, just Amazon solder that I got I'll try. You can also get it cheaper from Bango I'll. Put a link down below for that and pull down and away heat up the wire first, but don't worry about the wire order, guys we're gon na fix that later in BO heli motor direction, everybody always ask which wire should I put and with the motor wires. It doesn't matter because we have Bo heli configurator to fix that issue. If we were in a situation where we couldn't use Bo Hawley, the old school trick is to switch two wires and it should change motor direction physically switch two wires, but we're not gon. Na worry about that now, we're gon na go ahead and do this next one here motor number two next we'll do motor number three and then motor number four. I usually angle the wires toward the direction of the arm and that just it doesn't have as much tension on the wires and they use that plastic wire coating on these wires again to save money for this kit to make it cheaper, and I really wish they Would switch to silicone just much better and don't trim these wires back too much guys because you'll get to a really nasty part of the wire and it's gon na be harder a solder up.
So that looks pretty good, now we're gon na tin. Up this last one, and this one looks it doesn't have enough trimmed back so we're gon na have to take some snips here and just wire, snips and snip that off a little, we want a little better contact there to the tab. So if you have any short ones, just make sure you do that. You want a good, solid connection to each tab and make sure that you don't touch each one of these wires with any solder to the next tab over, because you will get a short and you'll burn up. Your es es very important, we're gon na check that later with a smoke stopper just to make sure we don't have any issues. Now everything looks good here. We have all of our motor wire soldered up, and what you want to do next is carefully very carefully twist up these wires, and this wire is super super hard to twist just hold it with one hand to take the tension off between the motor and the Wires, so you don't pull anything off you're, really careful there now we're gon na use blue loctite shake it up. First, as always, whenever you use Loctite, you want to shake the bottle. Just a little dab'll. Do ya we're going to go ahead through here and usually any metal to metal connection we're gon na use Loctite on, especially on the motors? You know I really have to do it on the standoffs as much but it's a good idea to go over your bolts.
Every once awhile on your frame and just check them out with your driver, make sure everything is nice and firm, not over, tighten things because you will strip it, though it's pretty good. The collars not rubbing most important, that that collar is not rubbin on the frame. Make sure it's centered up good, that looks pretty good there it's a nice tight wire. So now all four motors are mounted up. Yes, he's on there it's, looking pretty good they've already had the capacitor soldered on to the es es, which was nice. I didn't have to do that, but there are two holes in case. Yours comes not soldered up and I got an extra capacitor in the box. Two flight controllers stand off just go above the ESC onto your existing posts, go ahead and screw all four of those down that's. Looking pretty good, now we're going to solder on the battery wire, you got to make sure you have the orientation correct here. You will burn up your ESC, snow, we're, gon na tin these wires again because the solder that's on there is not much and we just want to blob it on there. We really get a good amount of solder on these wires and you'll see I start to bubble and another trick to know that the wire is hot enough. That'S receiving is touch the solder straight to the wire instead of the iron, and it should melt when it touches the wire now we're going to tin the ESC tabs and make sure that you don't overdo this for too long, because they'll have pad separation from the Esc, you want a good amount, move your soldering iron around the tab and make sure again you don't bridge these two tabs with too much solder, and the TS 100 is nice because it has a nice small tip on here, some of the stuff, the soldering irons, The cheap EDP, once you get the Weller ones that you get from like Home Depot they're, not that great try not to use those they take forever to do a thicker gauge wire, so I'm, just gon na bend these over I'm gon na hold it with some Pliers this time, because this wire gets ultra hot, so heat up the wire first and then down to the tab that's the best way to do things and your connecting wires to your flight controller or your ESC s, because you don't want to heat up the tab.
First and have all that heat on the tab, the entire time, because again you could get pad separation. That will ruin your yes, your flight controller. So it looks pretty good. Now give those a tug after they're done. There should be nice and firm and it should be nice and shiny there. Now you're gon na take a zip tie, a single, zip tie and we're just gon na zip tied these wires down to the frame in case the battery gets ejected. It doesn't pull directly on the ESC. Tabs, not results in a lot of failures, of es es, so now we're gon na go ahead and take the ESC harness. It looks like this pins up just like that and we're gon na plug that into the ESC there, and we can go ahead and grab the flight controller ready to go ahead and plug that in again, pins up and we're. Just gon na take your you're gon na, take your thumb and just press it down gently and tuck it underneath the flight controller there. So your wires aren't sticking out that's, nice and neat looks pretty good. So at this point you should have a flight controller and ESC on there. Now we're gon na go ahead and mount up the xm and go ahead and grab your receiver wire we're gon na snip off this end right here, I'm gon na make it a little bit longer in case. I need to use that later I'm gon na save that wire, usually save all your wire now go ahead and snip off these with your fingernails.
If you have any, where you can use some some wire snips or whatever, now we're gon na go ahead and ten these wires and you'll hear it referred to as rx wire, so there's your receiver wires. You know it goes like this signal: five volt and ground on this particular receiver, so we're gon na go ahead and do the S bus signal, wire, first it's, usually a yellow or a white wire if it gets too far in scooch it back a little bit. So it's directly, on top of the tab, just like that and now again you don't want to bridge from tab to tab any solder. If you mess up, do it over and it doesn't take long to do your receiver wires, which is awesome now the final ground wire right here, that's, looking pretty good, nice and shiny, looks good. Now on to the next step. You need to solder bridge 4's bus on the right hand, side that would be ppm but we're using s, bus and it looks like I buses over there on the right hand, side so bridge the two right. If you want to use fly skies so that didn't take the solder, it looks like a lot of solder here guys go ahead and blob it up like that and if you mess up, you can use your solder sucker, but now we have those two bridged. Now we can go ahead and plug in the receiver wire to the our export, and this will allow beta flight to CS bus.
Otherwise it will not see s bus when you plug that wire in very important. So now we're gon na go ahead and add the GPS. This is simple: they made this really nice. All we have to do is plug this. In get our be in 220 T there that's a GLONASS GPS I'm gon na go ahead and take your GPS wire and plug it in to the port, and now the smaller end goes into. The GPS itself looks like pins up the way I'm holding it here and now we're plugged in and ready for some GPS when you'll install it with this facing up now, I'm gon na put some standoffs on here again because now we're gon na mount the VTX. You have your video 5 volt and ground there and it's 7 to 24 volt that's, pretty good you almost you got directly to mount this to your battery terminals, but we're, not gon na. Do that we're gon na go ahead and plug it into the flight controller. The way it's supposed to go because we want oh s, d and all that good stuff to show up so now, we're gon na plug it into that port. Just like that, you're gon na tuck, the wire underneath you can bend these standoffs just a little bit. They'Ll give a little bit for you to put that BTX on there. You also have a button for changing channels on there as well. Now we're gon na go ahead and take those four plastic nuts and screw those down to hold the VTX down, and I only put two on there: just saving a little bit of weight.
The camera setup it's just like this guy's, this wires gon na go into your camera in the back again pins facing up now. The smaller side goes into this last port on the flight controller. Now your cameras installed. That was pretty easy, make sure your orientations right. The snail should face up just like that. Now the main body stand off so we're gon na do the back ones. First, we're gon na install the camera in the front and then do the front post after we install the camera. So I'll just go ahead and use your driver with one of those standard size nuts and you could use Loctite here if you want to but I'm not going to in this particular part and now the next post over pretty easy so far, right, not bad. Now we're going to go ahead and take the VTX antenna lead with MMC, X, connector and pop that in on the VTX and tuck that behind that back post right there now we're gon na go ahead and take these collars off just gon na remove those and I'M, not actually going to use that particular knot there. On top of this, what I'm gon na do is I'm gon na go ahead and press this through we're gon na fit this over top the posts it'll take some force to put that on and now one little collar here, the lock collar and now we're gon Na use the antenna and we're gon na hand, tighten it down.
Okay, you can come back with a little needle nose. Plier just give it a tiny term, but you don't want to overdo it there. So now the camera is gon na be mounted up. You'Ll start out with that middle hole right there, you're gon na need a little tiny, Phillips head, screwdriver and again I'm, not using Loctite on this, because I adjust my camera. Quite often. Sometimes it will move, but you don't want lock tight on this now. The second screw this will hold it in place and it shouldn't move and leave them a little bit loose at this point, because you might come back and adjust this later and that'll probably be. The last thing you do is tighten up your camera screws. Okay, so that's, looking good don't forget to take your lens cap off when you're trying to check out your video a little bit later in your build. Now, it should be flush on the bottom of the frame, just like this that's looking good there. So now we're gon na put these front posts on, and I always do that after I put the camera on because it's kind of a pain to work around those posts got that one on and now we should be good. Now we can work on putting on this top plate, but first we're gon na do a smoke stopper. Now you go ahead and plug in this part to the quad here and then you plug in the battery to this other part.
If you have any weird things going on, you should see a light, it'll light up momentarily, possibly when you plug it in just like that, a little bit but it won't stay on let's know it looks like I'm good to plug in the battery and now we're Gon na do a check here to see that we have lights on everything and it looks like we do. You also want to see a light on the flight controller underneath now to bind up your xm, pretty simple, just set it to D 16 8 channels here and we're gon na not do range. We'Re gon na go to bind here, you're gon na press the bind button on your radio and you'll hear your radio beep hold down that gold button with a driver and you're gon na plug in a battery, and you should see a red flashing light and a Solid green light, if you get a fine, no unplug everything plug it back in if it's too close to the radio, sometimes you'll see a red light, but ours is solid, green. So I know I have a good bind now. We'Re gon na go ahead and mount the receiver so I'm. Just putting a little zip tie around this extra bit of wire here just to tidy things up and I'm gon na zip tie that to the side of the frame as well to make sure that that wire, doesn't kind of get out into the props go ahead.
And put a piece of VHB on bottom of your receiver and put it on top of the VTX. There run your wires underneath the motor wires on the back of the quad and have them facing out like that. Now, we're gon na take a sip time. We'Re gon na get it started. We'Re gon na go around this motor right here and down the arm. You can put it over top of the motor wire that's. Fine, just don't put it over top of your receiver wire, because we're gon na take that receiver antenna and we're gon na run that out on top of the zip tie and we're gon na trim this off too about the end of the antenna. Make sure you don't send up off the end of your antenna when you're doing that now we're gon na do the other side same treatment just like that we're gon na snip that off that's looking pretty good that's about the right length now we're gon na taste. Some heat shrink, we're gon na trim that off just kind of eyeing it there to see that we have it the same length, you're gon na put that over the end, and it should be nice and snug all the way down to the base of the zip Tie there now you're gon na take a heat gun or you can use your soldering iron in a pinch or cigarette lighter, and that looks pretty good on that side.
Now, we're gon na do the same thing. On the other side, go ahead and run your heat shrink down to the base of the zip tie. Looking good now that pretty much sums up our RX installation now, we're gon na do the top plate assembly it's four bolts to release the top plate, which I love that's. A nice trend that happened in 2019, 2020 18 just makes it a lot easier to access. Your stack now this is a little bit tricky there. You want to make sure those two camera standoffs are flush with the top of that frame and that they're seated properly and we're gon na go ahead and tighten down these four bolts. Looking good and now we're ready to put the GPS on now, what I'm gon na recommend for your GPS installation is that you put it somewhere on top of this top plate, if not on the arm don't, do it on the arm it's too much interference out Here near the motors that's, not a good place to put a GPS, you want to have the GPS well above any of the RF coming from your motors or the the flight stack so generally. What I do the best way to set up is on the stack, but since I don't have a post I'm just going to mount it to the top of the quad in the rear of the quad, now we're gon na run this GPS wire up through here Go ahead and give it a few twists to tidy up the wire, and here we go pins up, go ahead and plug that in just like that, and now we're going to take a piece of VHB and put on the bottom of that and just mount it Right there and again don't mount it on the arms now trim your VHB, so it's, nice and tidy on the bottom of that GPS right there.
You could take a razor blade and just peel back this bottom part there, and just put it right there and go ahead and give it an extra push down, make sure it's, nice and tight that will not come off. You don't need to put a zip tie on top of this, so you're just about done so let's go ahead into beta flight now and we can go through the beta flight set up for the 119 it's, not too hard we're gon na talk about the GPS. As well in here, I'll go ahead and plug in USB to the flight controller, go ahead and click on expert tab. There we're gon na start out in the ports, but first let's go ahead and check orientation left right forward and back. If you have this wrong, you have your flight controller on sideways, which is not good, but you can reverse it in the configuration. If you need to turn it, you can do that. Go ahead and calibrate your accelerometer if it's flat now GPS is on UART number one that is pretty standard default for most GPS is on flight controllers. You'Ve got your s. Buses on you are for your receiver. That should be checked like that. Now we're gon na go ahead and go down to fit get configuration. You can see it's right turn, rear, prop setup. This is how you check the prop setup on each of your flight controllers. Now all that looks good, but I think I'm gon na turn.
These numbers up a little bit here and you guys can go along with this one make this full screen, so you can see it about 4.5 for the motor idle. They had that a little bit low. I think if that's too high, you can go waste, go back and change it now. We'Re gon na click off magno meter, we're gon na leave that ometer on all that looks good one. Eighty arm angle, that let you arm it if you get stuck in a tree now, we're gon na type in for the craft name, tyro 119, there that will show up in the OSD a little bit later. We could turn that on s, bus and specs that there that's good for your Rx looks good GPS is going to be: u blox, configurated make sure gps is turned on. You blocks is selected here, and all that looks good and over in the other features. All of this we're gon na leave the same. Everything looks good there and down here. We'Re gon na leave our ex lost and our except tech, because we're going to use some D shot, beeper doesn't have a physical beeper on there. So now save and reboot. Now, we're gon na check out the power and battery and I'm just gon na crank this down to about 3.1, go ahead and turn those down after you're done with that go ahead and click safe at the bottom right looks good.
So now failsafe, we're gon na change, this traditionally we'd use drop but we're gon na change it to GPS rescue because we're going to have GPS rescue on a switch in a in a total failure. We would also want to have GPS take over and do a return to home, so this is your kind of your failsafe you're using this for long range. This is the way to set this up. You don't want to drop to the ground if you're on long range mission, you want it to come up to a certain height and come back to you and you can increase your return height if you'd like to, depending on where you're flying at you have a Lot of high buildings or trees – all this looks good over here now, we're gon na go ahead and save and reboot, and now for the paid configuration once we go back in the the pit tuning we're gon na leave it all stock, because beta flight is doing A pretty good job these days with some of the default tuning now here in your receiver tab, you don't see anything moving here yet and you won't you need to plug in a battery and once you plug in a battery you're gon na see that things might Not line up with your taranis radio, you can see things are a little bit out of whack and you see the quad spinning around there. You shouldn't be doing that.
Everything is out of whack, so we're gon na change. This change it to that far sky. There AET are looks good now: we're gon na click, Save and watch that they magically go into line there they're all in sync, now throttles good roll pitch. All that looks good now my switches and you need to activate switches in your radio in your mixer and input tabs. Make sure that you do that so that you have some switches available. You need about three switches for this particular quad and I'm gon. Na put my beeper and my GPS return to home on one switch we're gon na start out with the armed tab there and you can move these sliders around by grab them in the middle or on the ends like that. I usually like tidy them up. No aux too is gon na be for angle. We'Re gon na save that, and now, when you move your switch on your radio, you should see that gold tab move around now outside of angle mode. In that gray, space would be a crow mode for guys that don't know know that if you're looking for a crow mode, there is no tab for a crow mode. It'S no GPS, we're gon na have that on ox 3 and that's, my GPS spot so I'm gon na put that, on the very last section there and spot number, two switch number position: number two I'm gon na have beeper, so GPS rescue and the beeper are Gon na be on the same switch, so if you crash close in you can use your beeper and all the way out would be GPS rescue failsafe.
It looks pretty good there. Oh, I got ta switch that back to aux. One make sure your arm switches on Alex one and you can go back to the modes tab to check to see which locks is on each which switch tongue tied there for a second. So it looks good save that awesome and that again is a crow. By the way gray space is pure, a crow that is so mangle. You can also add horizon on there if you want to, but I usually don't use horizon so I'm gon na save that, and it looks good there so now, we're gon na go down to GPS time. You'Re gon na test this outside. If you don't see any numbers flying through here guys, you don't have any GPS packets coming in, and that's gon na be a problem, so you have to troubleshoot your GPS. Why you're not getting connection it could be in the configuration motor stop or the motor test tab? You can test individual motor direction here. I usually take a piece of painters. Tape make a little flag on the top of the motor and you want right turn rear and you can refer to that schematic up at the top left there to change your motor direction. Don'T put the props on during that. So now we're going to go down to OSD and we're gon na add some things here: we're gon na take off the warnings, because I usually don't like that on there it kind of beeps at me or tells me things I don't want to hear.
Now we can add some other things, and so when the most important thing is put your GPS up top and distance from home, you want the home arrow up at the top of the screen. Usually, you also want latitude and longitude, so you can. If you have a complete crash and you lose your quad, you could always refer back to your DVR, so every single flight you want to be recording because if you crash – and you don't know where it went, you've got latitude and longitude right. On the last point, your DVR and you can enter that into your phone and go back and find your quad. So now we got the craft name down there right in the center. That looks pretty good and you can go crazy with this type of setup. There'S. A lot of information that you can add on the screen, we're gon na do some crosshairs there, I kind of like crosshairs on my long distance quads, and now we want the compass heading up top. I like that, just above the home point arrow and guys when you're loading this up on the ground, give it about a minute to load up the GPS home point and once you're home point loads up, move your quad around and you'll see that home arrow start To spin around, if it doesn't work or spin around at first, you probably don't – have a home, lock, it's, never you're, gon na use our mode that modes tab there and below that we're going to use timer two.
Now we want our battery voltage down at the bottom left. We also want throttle as well, because when I'm flying long range, I want the lowest amount of throttle to keep a heading, and that looks pretty good there and don't forget to click Save when you're done with your OSD setup. Looking pretty good awesome so now, we're gon na go down to the CLI and you can type in version to see which version the flight controller you have. If you had to do some type of reflashing of your flight controller and now to get all the settings from this video I'm going to type into UMP, which is dump – and it gives me all the settings here and I'm gon na save this down to a File for you guys, I'm going to put this on Google Docs. I want to put that in the description in the video link down below you. Guys can click on that and you can add these into your tyro 119. If you want to, and that will be available for everybody, so tyro 119 right there do ump, you can save that for you, and that should help you out. If you have a situation where you have to redo this, you can use that file. So now you need to check motor direction and at this point everything should be good and bethe flight. Now you have to close beta flight for Bo heli to work, make sure you close beta flight and you need to plug in a battery at this point as well.
You usually want to do props off and once you have, the USB port plugged in you'll see that USB loads up in this tab right here now go ahead and connect and click on this button here, and it will take you inside your esc setup. You can reverse your motors here and I have ESC number one needed to be reversed for motor direction on my first motor and motor number, four, which is gon na, be ESC number four we're gon na click reversed now you're gon na, say right, setup; click on That and you'll see this prompt up at the top left start to go through the process of writing down to eh each ESC. When it says done, you should be good. Now. Click disconnect and you'll hear at the quad reset. At this point, and now you can close vo heli because you're just about ready to do your flight test and another tip guys you're gon na install the props. But once you get your props on and you do your first flight test, you want to make sure you do that line of sight, not FPV. Now the leading edge of your right turn rear prop should look like this leading edge is facing the direction. The prop is going to turn so directly across from that diagonally across is also right.